When you’ve finished swimming and partying at one of the lavish beach clubs, kick back at one of the island’s sensational new arrivals – as these are the seven newest and hottest hotels in Mykonos for Summer 2021!
Destino Pacha Mykonos
Destino Pacha Mykonos is a glamorous new 5-star resort set to open this summer. This Spanish-based brand is planning on bringing the Ibiza lifestyle to one of Greece’s most popular islands. Overlooking the white sands and turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea, the resort will open its doors on the first day of summer, June 1. Featuring 34 rooms with six spacious sea-view suites, it also has a lounge and bar, as well as an all-day Mediterranean restaurant and a wellness centre, which includes rooftop yoga.
Kalesma Mykonos
The whitewashed collection of houses have been created to resemble a charming, exclusive Mykonian village, just a short walk from Ornos beach. Opened in June 2020, Kalesma’s location provides 360 vistas, providing guests with the opportunity to enjoy both sunrise and sunsets from the same spot. The 5- star boutique hotel offers 25 luxury suites and two larger villas. Inspired by Cycladic architecture and combining tradition with contemporary elements, Kalesma offers sleek and minimalist interiors using locally-sourced materials. Guests can also book in-room spa treatments, while a luxurious spa is set to open in mid- 2021.
NOMAD
This bohemian property offering 14 suites, is a private sanctuary designed for discerning travellers looking for a rustic yet stylish space to stay. Located just 200 metres from Kalo Livadi, one of the most beautiful beaches of Mykonos, NOMAD opened in January 2020. The luxury suites come with private pools and jacuzzis and offer an earthy yet luxurious feel with a private courtyard. Natural materials and organic cotton set the tone for the interior spaces, and the hotel’s restaurant is a celebration of fresh, seasonal flavours. You can also spend plenty of time relaxing by the pool with a handcrafted cocktail from the ‘mixology’ bar.
Once in Mykonos Luxury Resort
Located above Ornos Beach, Once in Mykonos features a blend of classic Cycladic style with chic décor. Having only opened in October 2020, the deluxe suites provide a place of endless comfort and ultimate summertime serenity. Guests can relax on the sun loungers surrounding the hotel’s private pool and don’t need to go far to enjoy delicious meals as the hotel’s restaurant serves a range of great dishes all day long. Massage and beauty treatments are also available.
Habitat Mykonos All Suites
Located just steps away from the village of Agios Stefanos, this bohemian-chic, all-suite hotel is the perfect hideaway for immersing yourself in the laid-back rhythm of Mykonian life. Opening its doors in September 2020, Habitat is only 300 metres from Agios Stefanos beach and features a restaurant, an outdoor swimming pool, a bar, a private garden, and a terrace. Comprising of 17 suites, the hotel is a mix of simple, rustic details with modern amenities and contemporary comforts. All come adorned with bohemian artisan elements, understated furnishings, plush linens, and unique decor.
Epic Blue
Nestled above the beautiful Houlakia Bay, the brand new (opened May 2020) Epic Blue overlooks the alluring waves of the Mediterranean Sea. The suites and villas range from Junior Suites through to three-bedroom villas, providing guests with a glimpse of the Aegean Sea and all come complete with contemporary furnishings. The deluxe spa is set to open for the first time in May 2021.
Koukoumi Vegan Hotel
The first and only vegan hotel in Greece opened its doors in March 2020. Situated in the heart of the island, in the traditional village of Ano Mera, Koukoumi is a modern and sleek boutique hotel featuring a swimming pool and fitness centre. There is also a spa for those who wish to detox and destress, plus a restaurant serving dishes using premium quality ingredients and minimal or no processing; only plant-based food is handled in the kitchen area.
Euphoria
Located at Kalo Livadi, close to popular Agia Anna Beach, Euphoria Suites is a brand-new 5-star property with Cycladic charm and luxurious touches. Elegance and style blend in harmoniously with the breathtaking 180 degrees sea view that inspires relaxation, romance, and adventure. Savor the flavors of Mykonos at the hotel’s restaurant and bar with tasty cuisine made from fresh local produce or lounge by the pool, swim under the sun, and recharge at the fitness centre and spa. Each of the 31 suites has been designed to include refined finishes and elegant Cycladic touches, while all feature their very own outdoor jacuzzi or private swimming pool.
Iraklia is a tiny island with only 115 residents. But don’t let that fool you. What it lacks in size it makes up for in unspoiled beauty, rich history, scenic beaches, and authenticity; allowing visitors to discover what Greek island life is all about.
If you are looking to escape the city over summer and searching for a destination that is especially quiet, even during the peak tourist season, Iraklia is an ideal spot that offers peace and tranquility. One of Greece’s best-kept secrets, it’s the largest island of the Small Cyclades and here you can switch off, relax and allow yourself to be captured by its simple beauty.
Location
Set between two popular Greek islands, Naxos and Ios, this secluded isle keeps its traditional feel even in high season. Iraklia is a perfect base for island hopping, thanks to its proximity to the rest of the Small Cyclades including Ano Koufonisi, Kato Koufonisi, Schoinoussa, Donousa, and Keros.
Getting there
Just 1.5 hours by local ferry, you can reach Iraklia from Naxos via Express Skopelitis (Monday – Saturday), or via Blue Star Ferries from Naxos or from Athens (3x per week). Iraklia is connected by ferry with Naxos and all the islands of the Small Cyclades group.
What you should know before you arrive
– There are no banks and there is only one ATM.
– A couple of mini-markets and one supermarket are located in the main area.
– There is no petrol station or car hire, there are only scooters for rent.
– No camping facilities available.
– There aren’t any buses or taxis, only a minibus that goes from Agios Georgios to the village of Panagia and to Tourkopigado beach.
– There’s no pharmacy on the island but there are two clinics and a doctor on call 24/7.
– Water and electricity are available for yachts at the port.
Things to do
Hiking: Iraklia is a mountainous destination and you can enjoy the view from different points of
the island. Iraklia has eight distinct hiking trails that are popular with nature lovers. Some of the best hikes are the trails leading to Profitis Ilias and to Merichas, where you can reach one of the most picturesque points of the island.
Snorkeling: Enjoy the fabulous underwater world as the island’s coasts are home to the Mediterranean seal Monachus monachus and the marine turtle Caretta caretta.
Diving: Blessed with a rich marine life, Iraklia offers great opportunities for diving. Here you can spot the Mediterranean monk seals (mentioned above) and dolphins that frequent the island.
Bird watching: Bird lovers will be in paradise as this is where some rare species make their nest. Mericha Bay is the ideal spot as it’s surrounded by rocks 100m in height and between the cliffs you can see wild pigeons and vultures. Many people come to witness the rare and endangered species and birds.
Walking: This is the best way to get around and when the weather is right, strolling from one beach to the other or from the port to the main village is a wonderful thing to do, especially in the evening.
Things to see
Panagia Iraklia Village
-The village’s landmark is the 1919 stone-built Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary). The other big attraction is Pigi, a natural spring about 1km away that supplies water to the village. This refreshing spot also offers visitors great views of the northern part of Iraklia and all nearby Cycladic islands.
-A visit to Agios Athanassios is also a must. It’s an old village featuring stone houses built
according to traditional Cycladic architectural style and it offers a breathtaking view. The chapel of Agios Athanassios is at the entry point to the village.
-Located close to Iraklia, to the west of the island, near the bay of Vourkaria is the Cave of Saint John, which consists of a series of chambers with colourful decoration of massive stalagmites and columns in magical clusters of stalactites. The area covering the chambers is 2000 sq.m. and is considered one of the most impressive caves of the Aegean.
–The castle is located near Livadi beach, here you can find extensive information about the ancient settlement used as an offensive structure during the Hellenic period.
-From the top of Papas Hill, you can admire the magnificent view of all the adjacent islands including Ios, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Donousa, Ikaria, Makares, Koufonisia, Shinousa, Keros, Antikeri, Fidou, Agrilou, Amorgos, Anhydros, Anafi, Santorini, Venetiko, Avelonisia. You can also see most of the beautiful nearby beaches from here.
Villages
There are two villages on Iraklia: Agios Georgios, which also serves as the main port of the island, and Panagia, which is a mountainous village with fewer residents. Panagia is a small village with a few taverns and cafes. It stands out for its traditional architecture and the lovely churches around it. Agios Georgios is where the locals of Iraklia gather as its the largest settlement. Approaching the island from the sea, the white-washed homes with blue painted doors stand out from a distance. Here you will find a few taverns, a couple of mini-markets, and churches.
Beaches
As the island is totally untouched by tourism, most beaches are unorganised and remote, meaning most also offer privacy. Some beaches can be reached on foot, while others you can only get to by private boat. Livadi beach and the port beach are the most popular places to swim on the island. You can easily walk here from the harbour and it takes about 20 minutes. Livadi features soft sand, crystal clear water that is shallow, making it ideal for families with young children. Vorini Spilia, is also worth exploring, as it’s a quiet spot, perfect for a long, relaxing day of swimming. Karvounolakos in the south of the island is a small beach between Merichas and Alimia– the colour of the sea here is breathtaking.
Eat and drink
There are roughly 15 taverns on the island, most are in the main square and all serve authentic local dishes. Our favourite for a range of freshly made seafood pasta are Akathi, Thalassa, Pera Panta, make sure you also head to Syrma taverna which serves traditional Mediterranean and Greek cuisine and try the homemade rakomelo (raki with honey). To Gialiri taverna is great for a variety of mezzedes (tapas-style dishes), while the ouzeri-café-bar, To Ypovrichio is perfect for an ouzeri style setting. For a coffee or after-dinner drink head to En Lefko or Perasma. For brunch and all-day drinks head to Speires where they serve a rich collection of high-quality wines by small winemakers from all over Greece and Surfin Bird, is an all-day bar-restaurant located on the beautiful Livadi seafront, serving great food using regional produce and homemade sweets.
Akathi Tavern
Speires Tavern
Thalassa Tavern
Local delicacies
Iraklian honey is famous for its golden coloured texture and unique taste because the bees here feed exclusively from thyme. Also try the wide variety of spoon-sweet preserves and marmalades made from various local fruits, as well as specialty liqueurs such as rakomelo and frangosyko (prickly pear). Cheese lovers will definitely enjoy the different types made from goat’s milk and produced on small scale by local farmers. As for a specific dish, Schinoussafava (chickpea puree) variety, is a specialty of the island.
Where to Stay
Don’t expect 5-star luxury resorts, here it’s all about comfort, coziness, and good old-fashioned Greek hospitality. Most of the rooms are placed on the outskirts of the village towards Livadi (southeast of Agios Georgios). Some of the most popular are Maistrali, Aiolos, Villa Zografos, and for the most modern of them all check out Speires.
Speires Hotel
Hotel Aiolos
Villa Zografos
Shop
Agerino features a tasteful selection of handmade items such as jewellery, wood-carvings, ceramics, and Cycladic figurines.
Bratsera has a range of handmade jewellery and other small souvenirs as well as a small selection of clothes.
Thalassi stocks a unique collection of handmade jewellery selected from local manufacturers, handmade leather sandals, a variety of caftans, scarfs, hats, and various kinds of accessories. Here you can also find ceramics made by artists from Greece.
The Cyclades made up of around 30 inhabited islands, are not only characterised by dazzling coastlines, rugged landscapes (except for Andros, known for its abundance of water and greenery), a rich ancient history, whitewashed box-like buildings with cobalt blue shutters and but also by the simple, succulent, generally healthy and pure cuisine of the island group.
Occupations by pirates, the Franks, Venetians, Ottomans and Maltese left their mark on these islands on many levels, including their culinary philosophies.
Since 2000 when the face of tourism began to change the islands, their cuisine changed too, with more international styles, techniques and ingredients bringing more creativity, finesse and sophistication to their valuable PDO products like bresaola-style louza, honey, Santorini tomatoes and fava, a variety of cheeses and capers.
Winemaking too has become a common attribute of this island group, with Santorini (and its 17 wineries) remaining the star. Here we offer you a guide to help you know what not to miss when you’re travelling around the Cyclades.
Fish
The Cycladic islands are more meat (especially pork) oriented than fish, although the beloved kakavia fish soup is made in different renditions. Kakavia, traditionally the “fisherman’s soup” is made by combining various kinds of fish or parts of fish, with tomatoes and in some renditions with celery as well as plenty of olive oil and lemon or avgolemono (egg-lemon) sauce.
In Syros fish dishes are more unique – atherina fish is cooked with onion, tomato and egg, and locals also have a real taste for shark meat.
Cheeses
The Cyclades are known for their delicious cheeses: goat an cow’s milk gruyere (graviera) and mild myzithra from Naxos, sharp xinomyzithra from Paros and flavoursome San Michali from Syros, trovolia from Mykonos (also made in a version with sugar and dry figs) which is the star of the island’s beloved kopanisti, also loved in Astypalea and Chios.
These and other cheese become the inspiration for pies – both sweet and savoury – made in different styles in each of the islands; small and fried, large and mixed with herbs, drizzled in honey and sesame and other dishes.
Beans
Thin, long green beans known as ambelofasoula are easily found in the Cyclades, and they’re often eaten boiled as a salad with lemon and oil or even alongside skordalia garlic sauce in some islands.
Black-eyed beans are also commonly served around these islands, served with Feta, tomato and cucumber as a salad, or sautéed with greens. Chickpeas are especially popular in Paros and Sifnos, where they are traditionally slow-cooked overnight in a revithada soup made in a clay pot.
In Sifnos revithokeftdes (chickpea patties), like falafel crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, are also a popular treat.
Santorini is known for its creamy, rich yellow fava, made with split peas and usually served with a topping of raw or caramelised onions, capers and lemon juice.
Legumes
Capers (which are actually flower buds that when left to blossom create beautiful purple and white flowers) grow wild on rocky walls and enclaves around the Cyclades, and in-the-know locals rush to gather them at the end of June to pickle them in saltwater and then vinegar for the year.
Santorini is famous for its flavour-packed tomatoes, grown by hydration rather than watering, and these make for not only excellent salads and sauces but the island’s well-known tomato fritters (domatokeftedes). In Andros, most green grocers sell the massive courgette-like vegetable called lyraki, which is eaten boiled with oil and lemon.
Meat
Pork products especially are characteristic of Cycladic cuisine mainly rooting back to the annual pig slaughtering tradition that began in pre-refrigerator days, when the animals were killed and every part of them was made use of in a fresh but mainly preserved form – sausages and cured louza ham. Other popular meats are lamb and in some islands, game.
Wandering around small alleyways on the Greek islands in summer you will come across endless white-washed walls of homes, hotels, taverns, terraces, churches, and shops richly adorned with Bougainvillea.
The popularity of this pretty flower has now grown worldwide and if you would like to plant some at home, no matter where you reside here is all you need to know!
What is Bougainvillea?
Greece’s most cherished flower
Bougainvillea are tropical vines that can grow from 1 metre to 12 metres high. There are now dwarf varieties available, known as Bambino bougainvillea, which are great for use in pots or as low hedges. The petals of the Bougainvillea flower resemble delicate paper and come in various shades of pink, red, orange, white, and purple.
Where can you plant Bougainvillea?
-It can grow on practically any surface, such as a small potted plant, a tree, or on your terrace.
-Bougainvillea needs plenty of light. So just make sure to plant it at a spot where it gets direct sunlight. Keep in mind, that your bougainvillea will not bloom unless it gets enough direct sunlight, roughly 8 hours per day.
-Bougainvillea can be planted in the garden, but keep in mind that they have a large root system. When planting in pots, use a potting mix for shrubs and go for a larger sized pot so that it will last longer. If you would like a smaller potted plant, go with a Bambino variety and a smaller pot to ensure that the soil doesn’t remain wet.
-Bougainvillea can be used in many ways including climbing on fences, walls, and pergolas adding brilliant pops of colour. When planting as a hedge or standard feature plant, they need regular pruning to retain the desired shape.
Bougainvillea is displayed across white washed walls all around Greece
Growing Bougainvillea in your garden
-Choose a well-drained spot in the garden that attracts the full sun.
-Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the plant from the container, gently tease the roots.
-Position in hole and backfill with soil, gently firming down. Form a raised ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water where it’s needed. -Water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes.
Growing Bougainvillea in a pot
-Choose a wide pot. Position in full sun and fill with quality potting mix.
-Remove the plant from the container, gently tease the roots.
-Position in hole and backfill with potting mix, gently firming down. Water in well.
Plant it near windows
Cultivation
-If you are looking for a low-care plant, this is for you. It’s resistant to insects and disease, but of course, you should check in on it often. A bacterial leaf spot can also form in wet conditions, but this can be prevented by keeping foliage dry. -Water only when leaves start to wither and do not over-water because leaves will turn yellow and drop, or you will get lots of foliage and no flowers. Also, be careful when fertilizing because if you over-fertilize you will still get a green plant with no flowers.
The Right Climate -Bougainvillea doesn’t like low temperatures and harsh wind drafts. So, make sure to plant it near a wall, train it on a trellis, or any spot that is protected from harsh wind and tie it steadily.
-If you live in areas with extremely low temperatures in winter, it would be advisable to cover your bougainvillea with plastic in order to prevent the plant from freezing.
Perfect touch to an archway
Caring Tips
-Little feeding and watering is required once established.
-Avoid overwatering. Excessive water can cause the leaves to drop from the plant.
-Bougainvillea only needs occasional watering during the winter months, but regular watering during warmer months is essential to keep the roots cool.
-To assist in brightening, you can feed your plant with a phosphorous and potassium-based fertiliser in early spring before flowering.
-The best time to prune is in autumn, to clean off old flowers.
-Watch out for those spikes and make sure you wear gloves when trimming.
Whitewashed houses, delicious food, unbeatable beaches. This is Naxos in one sentence. My favourite Greek island that never ceases to amaze me.
Naxos is the largest Cycladic island and it has it all. Beautiful beaches, ancient sites and museums, great food, atmospheric mountainous villages, and a cosmopolitan atmosphere for those who want to stay out all night. It has something for every type of traveller and fulfills even the most demanding one.
I visited the island for the third time in September 2020, and besides visiting my usual go-to spots, this time I discovered a few more gems as well. Are you ready to travel with me?
1. Plaka beach will always be my number one. Crystal-clear waters, fine sand, and amazing views that take your breath away. My second favorite would be Mikri Vigla with its mesmerizing green waters. Agios Prokopios deserves a shout-out too, but then again, all Naxos beaches do, to be fair.
2. Plaka area has introduced a few great places for snacks, food, and drinks that made me want to return again and again. Excellent tastes, well-presented dishes made with local products, and charming boho vibes. Try Tohu, Tortuga, Yucca, and Cedars. I did slightly prefer Yucca as their sunbeds were super comfortable! I also loved their spinach salad- the local sun-dried tomatoes were mouthwatering.
3. Naxos has turned good food into an identity, making it ideal for food enthusiasts. You have most probably heard of Axiotissa tavern. Well, there is a good reason for their great reputation and they surely know how to maintain it. Their variety of dishes makes you want to come back for more (I think I visited it at least three times while on the island). If you’re up for fresh fish, call them in the morning and ask them to hold the day’s fish for you. If you’re more into meat, then Axiotissa has you fully covered. Accompany everything with the famous Naxian potatoes and salads. I promise you will leave the place more than satisfied.
Koronos Village
4. If you’re in the mood for Italian, then visit Dal Professore restaurant in Naxos town. It’sone of the best Italian places I have ever tried; thumbs up to the chef. They’re pizza- made using three different types of flour- and the pasta were exquisite.
5. And since you’re in Town, head over to the all-time classic Waffle House for a delicious waffle or ice-cream. There is also a Waffle House in the Plaka area!
6. Moutsouna village is another place you have to add to your list. It’s a picturesque little village, with a beautiful beach and a fantastic tavern under the trees. Make sure to ask for Manolis and order fresh fish.
7. One of the reasons why I love Naxos so much is its unique way of combining the sea with the mountains. Take a break from the summer heat and discover Apeiranthos, one of the most picturesque villages of the island, the”jewel” of Naxos as locals call it. Explore its alleys and when you’re done exploring, seek Amorginos tavern to try their “rosto”, while sitting outside and admiring the lush green views.
8. Koronos is one more village worth discovering. I was fascinated by its narrow alleys and admired the refreshing views by drinking Greek coffee at Perasma café.
9. Wandering around the Town’s alleys will always be one of my favorite things to do. Ilove discovering cute little shops with handmade items. This year I got myself a lovely necklace from one of these shops. I do not recall its name, but I’m sure you will find your own favorite!
10. Last but not least, wander around the Castle of Naxos and fall in love with its beautiful corners. The other side of the Town, though, also deserves a visit. Walk by the coastal road to take in the delightful views.
It’s important to highlight that all facilities and establishments were following all health protocols and taking all the necessary precautions and measures to ensure visitors’ safety.
I left a piece of my heart in Naxos and promised to be back again soon, to enjoy my favorite places and discover new ones. What matters now is to stay safe and healthy, and Naxos will always be there, waiting for us to fall-again-in love with everything it has to offer!
Leaving the corporate world behind, talented Mexican-American artist Patricia Garcia-Gomez booked a getaway to Naxos island to relax, unwind and get the creative juices flowing.
What was meant to be a four week stay turned into three months of work and play, as Greece gave Patricia the space to create an entire physical and sensory experience at a four level monastery. The beautiful result is Earth is a she, a multi-media installation composed of video, sound and environmental theatre.
Please tell us about your work in visual media, sound and sensory immersion?
Sound and sense are very direct, and they can affect your emotions immediately, without any thought or explanation. That’s because they hold stories, memories, the ancient, everything. My work is about connection to this. An invitation. I’m interested in using sound and sensory immersion to activate the imagination, encourage people to listen deeply to the world around them, and to extend the edges of place and time.
What have been some of your favourite projects to date?
Earth is a she, which I created in Greece, is still among my most favourite. I completely immersed myself in the soul of the land and the people I encountered. Creating it was a bit like an excavation-a constant digging up of emotions and sensations, and I met peoplewho are now close friends.I am also very excited about my newest project, Oaxaca. It is a series of intimate portraits and sensory impressions.
Where are you currently based?
I’m in East Marion, Long Island, about two hours outside of Manhattan, very close to the water. The move out of the city was, in fact, inspired by my time in Greece. I felt so good after my daily swims that I marked it on my life plan, “This is how I want to live. I want to be able to swim every day.”Where I live now backs up to the Long Island Sound, where I swim every day. It’s not Greece, but it is Greece. In essence.
When did you first visit Naxos?
I first came to Naxos in 2017, on a self-given sabbatical, after a decade of running an award-winning branding agency in New York City (and getting myself fairly exhausted). My goals were simple–swim every day, eat well, slow everything down, write, and create space for what would be next. It was not so much a vacation as it was immersing myself in a fully-engaged creative life.
Tell us about “Earth is a she.” How did it all come about?
Earth is a she is a site specific installation that I created for the Bazeos Tower, composed of video portraits, sound, and environmental theater. In the installation, video portraits are projected 8 feet high in a space that is invisibly-filled with the smells, sounds and textures of the land just beyond the space where you are sitting. When you enter the room, it may appear to be empty. Attention is drawn to sound, and then the visual begins to take presence.
The installation started to percolate in my mind on my first trip to Naxos. Not as a formed idea, but rather as a sensing. Of place. Of sounds. Of presence. The sound of the bells moving across the mountain tops enchanted me, as did the cicadas. I would drive around the island and pull over to record them.
One night, as the sun was starting to descend,I saw a shepherdess crossing a wide field with her sheep. She called them and appeared to have them in a bit of a spell. We waited for her on the far side of the field so we could say hello. She laughed with us at the spontaneous oddity of having people run up to her in the field. Have you ever had that feeling of having encountered something that will be very important, but with no information yet?This is the feeling I had when meeting Maria Makari, the shepherdess who would become the subject of the film.
I filled the exhibition room with plants and herbs from the fields Maria works in every day.The audio, created in collaboration with musician/composer Prassanna Vishwanathan, blends field recordings of Maria with vocals rendered by Prassanna. We collaborated across New York, India, and Greece until we landed on this version, which feels born of the land.
What was the vision of your project?
My vision was to honor Maria, a shepherdess, a mother, a woman who walks in deep connection to the land. She reminds us, earth is a she…. On opening night, Maria and I had the first private screening together. Never before have I felt so much responsibility for caring for someone’s story. We watched it seven times together, and she gave me the most gentle embrace afterwards.
Even though it was a very hot summer, people came to sit in the theater, and they lingered, listening in the sound meditation room. One day, someone who lives on the island walked up to me and said “you have captured the essence of the island, thank you.”
How much time did you spend with Maria?
I visited Maria in the fields almost every day. Sometimes I would stop and take a few photos, sometimes I would just wave hello and walk beside her. My goal was to get a sense of her, and also get to know the plants, smells, textures, sounds, of the land around her. The more time we spent together, the more fun and light things became. Idon’t speak Greek, so we communicated with eyes and body language. One day when I was trying to ask her about her goats she invited me to join her in milking them–at 5AM! It was hard work, and dirty work, but she handled the animals with so much gentleness. You can see it in the film.
A turning point came when I realised that I only had images of Maria “in the field.” But there was something much bigger about her that I wanted to capture. I invited her up into the Tower, in the room that would house her installation. It is here that we created the large portraits that became the center of the installation. It’s as if all the work we did together was leading to this moment. We didn’t speak, we were just fully present together.
During your time in Naxos you also created ‘Call of the Naxos Moon’ and ‘Prokopios,’ tell us about those?
Call of the Naxos Moon, a sound meditation room, is about sacred space and invisible forces. Drawing on the history of the Tower as a monastery,I wanted to evoke a sense of the ancient that is present there. The room is filled with artifacts collected around and about the Tower. The vocal meditation (an ancient meditation by which one can experience the absolute “unstruck sound,” which we understand as “silence.”) was recorded in the early mornings, the time of day that the air moving through the space is most perceptible. Participants were invited to come in and to do nothing, just listen. Sitting in the room, the voices’ vibrations are felt directly through the body.
I had so much fun with Prokopios, named after the beach on Naxos where it was filmed. Using footage that I shot during my first visit to Naxos in 2017, I created a series of one-minute video triptychs that show the intersection of people’s personal and individual visits to the sea. The sea is universal in that it is powerful for all of us, but how it is powerful is intensely individual. When all these scenes collide with each other, a new timing and cadence is revealed. Some are funny, some peaceful, some absurd. I love the ambiguity. They are mini meditations.
What was the highlight in Naxos?
If I had to pick just one highlight (other than working with Maria and the other artists), it would be immersing myself in its sounds. First, the cicadas. They are an ever-present soundtrack that moves with you no matter where you are on the island. Then, the roaming goat bells. Bells that sound like waterfalls, both near and far in the distance. It’s mesmerizing. The sound becomes a part of you.
Other favorites: daily swims, discovering secret beaches, meeting local artists, driving through the winding mountain villages, getting lost (almost daily), running into daily life (especially weddings!) and being invited to join.
Where did you experience your best swim and food in Naxos?
I swam every day at Prokopios beach because it provides a long stretch of calm water–and it’s lively. My favorite swim spots , though, are the ones that you have to work harder to get to: Psili Ammos for its remoteness and Hawaii for its wildness. Things aren’t always well-marked in Naxos Greece, which lends a sense of adventure.
My favorite places to eat: Axiotissa (so fresh and bountiful- the best post-swim lunch);
Taverna I Pigi (roasted rooster and beer up in the mountains of Potamia); Paradiso (feet in the sand on the edge of the sea), Kitron Cafe Cocktail Bar (for a beautiful coffee or cocktail),and; Mitos Arternative Bar in Chalki (wood-fire pizza, fantastic hosts who know everything about Naxos, ask for Petros).
What part of Greek island life do you connect with most?
There is something ancient and untamable about Greece that really speaks to me. I could sit for hours listening to the cicadas, or along the sea. I recently learned the Greek word “filoxenia”– the love of strangers and an eagerness to show hospitality. Everything I experienced shows this to be true. This is the heart of it.
Do you plan on travelling or working in Greece again and if so, is there another island or region you would like to see?
Yes! I’ll be back in summer2021,leading a retreat that’s about re-setting, connecting to nature and self, making space to be filled up with goodness. Want to join? The global pandemic has left us all in need of a bit of restoration. No other place is as life-affirming as Greece. I would like to go deeper and farther into Greece, and see the places less visited.
*Watch the official trailer to Earth is a she here-
From the moment you arrive, Astypalea will take your breath away. The simplicity of this authentic island, which shares aesthetic elements of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, is what makes this destination extra special!
Its magnificent Chora, the old port, eight picturesque windmills, an imposing Venetian castle built of dark stones; and stunning beaches with crystal clear waters are the main reasons to fall in love with this beautiful island.
What you need to know before you arrive…
Astypalea is a butterfly-shaped isle, located in the Dodecanese in the southeastern Aegean but looks a lot like a Cycladic island. Its position contributed to the fact that it was not included in the wave of rapid tourism developments that evolved on other islands in the 80s and 90s.
Getting there
You have two options- either by ferry or by plane. The journey by ferry takes around 11 hours from Piraeus, Athens. Blue Star Ferries run every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday from the port of Piraeus and Olympic Air flights run daily except Tuesdays, during summertime.
Where to stay- I would strongly recommend staying near Chora.
Getting around- Around Chora, all roads lead to the Castro.
If you just want to explore Chora, the castle, and its surroundings you won’t need a car. But if you’re planning to do some trekking, explore the villages of Livadi and Analipsi, the charming beach of Agios Konstantinos and other distant beaches you’ll definitely need transport. Astyapalea has a regular bus service which connects all the main points of the island. Bus services run between Livadi – Astypalea – Analipsi – New Port – Airport.
Best time to visit
If you are looking for a summer escape the hottest months are August, July, and also June. It’s also perfect in spring, as you can discover the paths through the flower-filled landscape. Some paths pass through traditional creameries producing local cheese.
Where to sleep
Kalderimi Hotel on the road from Chora to Livadi. Designed in traditional island style, there are a total of 11 individual houses, all of which have their own distinct appeal.
Chrysalis Boutique Hotel offers superb views towards the twin-hilled town of Astypalea.
Pylaia Boutique Hotel, situated over a hillside in Astypalea it has two pools and a spa as an extra bonus.
Where to eat
Agoni Grammi at Chora’s square, just opposite the mills for amazing seafood and homemade Makarounes (pasta).
Ageri, simple and tasty.
Aeolos at Pera Gialos for delicious pizza and pasta.
Almyra at Maltezana for fresh fish and lobster pasta.
Paradosiako Kafeneio, a very traditional and authentic place close to the Windmills.
Local delicacies
Homemade Makarounes- traditional pasta typically served with fresh cheese or a garlic sauce.
The island’s cheeses are produced by local shepherds from some 15,000-20,000 animals living in the countryside.
Where to drink
Castro, a bar on top of the charming Chora of Astypalea. It has various levels as the walls of the castle.
Mylos Bar, hidden in the narrow road to the castle.
Kouros, the only nightclub playing Greek music, if you want a surreal experience with dancing on tables.
Where to swim
Livadi, the closest beach to Chora. Half of the beach has sunbeds while the other half remains unorganised.
Maltezana. The settlement consists of several smaller beaches, like Mple Limanaki and Plakes.
Another beach close to Maltezana is Steno, one of the best beaches in Astypalea, separated into two organised beaches, the Mikro Steno (small) and the Megalo Steno (big), both with crystal clear waters and two beach bars.
Vatses, one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, and Tzanakia, another beautiful beach and the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalea. It also has a fantastic view of the castle of Astypalea.
Kaminakia. If you’d like to reach this beach you should calculate approximately 30 minutes of driving. A good part of the road has no asphalt. The beach also has some basic infrastructure and tamarisks that will provide you some shadow. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, but it can also be crowded during the high season.
Agios Ioannis o Richtis is a hidden gem of Astypalea. You’ll have to walk around 30 minutes to reach this outstanding beach with a stunning landscape.
Discover history…
According to Greek mythology, Astypalea and Europe were the daughters of Finikos and Perimidis. The island of Astypalea was first inhabited in the 2nd millennium BC by the Caraes, who came from the ancient region of Caria in Anatolia (present-day Turkey). They were followed by the Minoans of Crete. Astypalea seems to have been a wealthy place during Classical times as it is evident from the high annual tribute they used to pay to Athens. There were many temples on the island at that time, another symbol of prosperity. Fruits and flowers practically covered the entire island, which is why the ancient Greeks used to call it the Table of the Gods. During the Hellenistic period (4th-1st century BC), Astypalea was an important naval base of Ptolemy of Egypt. During the Byzantine years, (4th – 13th century BC) the constant attacks from the pirates forced the inhabitants to abandon their houses at the coast and create new settlements inside the island with strong walls as protection. The castle of Saint John was also built at that time, parts of which you can still see.
Cultural events of the island
Every June, the Astypalea Summer Festival takes place on the island. On the 6thof August, the celebration of Sotiras takes place at the church of Sotiras Christos. On the 27thof July, is the feast day of Aghios Panteleimonas, and the celebration of Panagia Portaitissa takes place at the castle on the 15th of August. On the 8th of September, the traditional celebration in honor of the Virgin Mary takes place at the church of Panagia Poulariani.
Do as locals do…
Have a Greek coffee or a meze at the historic Kafeneio tou Moungou in Hora, watching elderly islanders catch up and play “tavli” (backgammon).
Every local housewife has her favorite secret spot (they’ll probably only share it on their deathbeds) for collecting thyme, sage, and saffron that grows on the island. Every November, the local women get together in a mini-ritual to pluck the saffron threads.
Insider tips…
Watch the full moon pop up from behind the castle- it’s an absolute must in Astypalea. To enjoy the moment to its fullest, reserve a table at Archipelago Café, and devour one of its nice desserts.
Also, the Cave of Negrou offers a beautiful view of the sea and of Vatses Beach, a 20- minute hike away.
To taste breadsticks made with local ingredients such as thyme, oregano, saffron, honey, and cheese, go to Iliana Bakery.
For great breakfast go to Meltemi Café which serves delicious pougia (small pies with fresh cheese, honey, and cinnamon).
For amazing desserts head to Glykia Astropalia, where you can find cheesecake made with hlori and Kolokytha.
Ideal time to spend here? You need 5 – 7 days to really enjoy the place.
Favourite part? The calm and extremely charming alleyways of Chora and the stunning landscape that includes the windmills, the Castle, and Chora.
What to avoid? Believing that maps and roads here are friends. There are no decent maps of Astypalea, not many street names to refer to and as a consequence, Google was not much help. But this has a good part. You can just get lost on the island and explore it by chance.
Top activities-Hiking. Ftera, located just twenty minutes away from Chora by car, is an ideal climbing location. Also, hiking to the highest spot of Astypalea is a unique experience. The chapel of Prophet Elias offers magnificent views of the capital of Astypalea.
Where to shop
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit “KATOA -The second life of things” in Chora -practically a second-hand shop- where you can find old items that the owner has transformed into something new and each one of them comes with a unique story.
At Tsakalos in Maltezana, you can buy honey, jams, liqueurs, body and face creams made with honeycomb, and other local products from Keranthos in Hora.
What to see
The Venetian Castle that stands on a hill above Chora. Its’ walls survive till today.
The eight traditional windmills, preserved until today- the most picturesque spot of Chora.
The Monastery of Saint John, nestled between two steep slopes. It offers a magnificent view of the islets Pontikoussa, Ofidousa, and Ktenia.
Drakos Cave (the Cave of the Dragon) with impressive stalactites and stalagmites of different colors.
The Archaeological Museum that hosts exhibits, such as stone tools, ceramic pottery and jewellery from the Prehistoric and Medieval times. You can also find photos from Negros and Drakos caves.
The Church of Panagia Portaitissa, considered among the most beautiful churches in the Dodecanese.
Also, the Church of Panagia Poulariani, accessed only by boat or on foot. It has a natural rock formation in the shape of the Virgin Mary embracing a child.
Take a day trip to…
Τake the little boat to the nearby uninhabited islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupi (or Kounoupes) with an unbeatable Aegean feel. There are several daily excursions that start from the port of Astypalea around 11 am and return in the late afternoon. They visit both islands and stay approximately two hours at each one. There are currently two options. The first choice includes lunch and drinks and costs 45 € while the other one doesn’t include any food or drink and costs 15 €. Keep in mind that when winds are too strong the excursions are cancelled.
Can’t leave until- You treat yourself to some hlori (a soft local cheese), anthotyro (dried hlori) and kopanisti (a spicy, creamy cheese). And certainly, buy other local products, like sage, oregano, thyme, and chamomile.
Yiorgos Kordakis is one of Greece’s leading photographers who has exhibited his stunning work across the world- including solo shows in Athens, Paris, London and Los Angeles.
The self-taught photographer has also received many prestigious awards and accolades throughout the years for his sharp, crisp and creative images that have found themselves in galleries, institutions and homes around the globe.
Tell us about your work as a photographer. When did it all begin?
I am a self-taught photographer. Photography was not in my life plans. It was all a coincidence. By pure luck I was involved in the magazine world back in the day. We are talking very late 90s, pre digital era- quite different from today’s world.
How would you describe your photographic style and what subjects do you most love capturing?
Hard to describe it in words. One thing I feel reflects my style, is the fact that I am not interested in being “present”, I do like to keep a distance from whatever it is that I am taking a picture of. I love architecture – the kind I am able to see as a form of sculpture. I also love taking pictures of women, ideally within an architectural context.
What are a few sources of inspiration for your work?
Ancient Greece, and the Cyclades are my constant sources of inspiration. I can also be inspired by the portrait of an exotic plant, a beautiful hand, or the beauty of my partner in life. I find inspiration in simple, everyday things.
You have also spent a lot of time in New York. Can you please tell us about your time working in the US?
The US and NYC in particular had been a dream of mine for many years. I feel blessed for being able to spend the time I did there. It was an exceptionally inspirational period for me. It was also a very fun time. I invested a lot of time driving all across the country, as I wanted to explore the real America which led me to working on my “10.000 American Movies” project- my own tribute to the “Americana” subject. I feel very lucky for having the opportunity of experiencing in full the typical American Roundtrip dream to the extent that I did.
What do you enjoy most about your work?
The fact that I get to meet a lot of people, most times beautiful people (inside and outside) is interesting. I also get to visit beautiful places. I can’t imagine a better “office”.
You mentioned you have a passion for architectural photography. Is this something you are focusing on at the moment?
Yes, I can’t imagine not being interested in architecture. I am sure I must have been an architect in a previous life.
You have received many international awards throughout the years, is there anything you are most proud of to date?
I don’t pay much attention to the awards. What makes me proud is when a collector decides to purchase one of my works or a person shares kind words about my work. It gives me enormous pleasure and makes it all worthwhile.
Your amazing photography has been showcased throughout many exhibitions. Are there any projects you are currently working on that will be seen in the near future?
I am working on a few projects at the moment but I am not sure when I will be ready to show some of that work – we live in weird times. If all goes well I should be showing in Basel and Venice next year, two shows that have been postponed this year due to Covid. One is a Solo and a Retrospective show , the other is a Group one, in which I will showcase some new work.
You travel around Greece quite often for work. Can you tell us a few of your favourite destinations for Spring? Summer? Autumn and Winter?
Peloponnese and Olympia in particular is beautiful in the spring. One has to see the Archaeological Site of Olympia when the almond trees are blooming. For the summer my favourite places are Koufonisia and Patmos. Mykonos is magical in Autumn and for the winter Pilio is the place to be.
What was the highlight of your summer travels in Greece for 2020?
This was the first time that I brought my baby daughter with me on a business trip.
Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first discovery of Anafi.
Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. As a child, the Londoner with Caribbean blood went to Anafi as one of his first Cycladic island experiences, described here. This personal story about Anafi is the second in a narrative series created by him especially for In+Sights Greece that will run over the next few weeks.
Discovering the Beauty of Anafi
Years had passed and still I stared over curling crests towards Anafi; Mount Kalamos, its towering monolith in white, reflecting light to where I stood in Lucas bay, that day, on Ios island. “Enough”, I thought, it’s time to go. “It’s been so long that I’ve said, no, but not this time, no, not this time.”
Heading back to Manganari on ancient paths as guide, I packed my inflatable, other belongings and sighed. The forceful waves of deepest blue were extra rough beyond Santorini, and though the ship plunged and soared – no way to get bored – I enjoyed myself serenely.
I slept in the port in a room by the water overlooking my boat now inflated and ready to sail. Next morning at seven, I awoke to a view as sweet as any I’d seen. “Like heaven unveiled”, I decided, and with petrol and cheese pie waved goodbye to the lady who owned the hotel.
Pachia was first then it was Makra, two islands not near but neither that far away. From south to north I travelled the sea to where the Monastery of Kalamiotissa sits atop the famous rock and looks out as far as the eye can perceive.
Two anchors down from bouncing around, I entered and dived and felt more alive, but had to resurface for air. Above my head, birds galore were squawking to the extreme, so I left to explore elsewhere, somewhere I’d still never been.
First, there was Hora with its personal aura of complex historical charm. I crisscrossed its streets to where everyone meets high-up in the centre of town and from there I could see as far as a tree near a rock shaped much like a crown.
Next day, the spray from the sea was all over me as I navigated the island entirely, and happy I was to write it all down in my personal leather-bound diary.
Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on Kimolos.
Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he
writes about his first encounter with Kimolos island. This personal story about Kimolos is part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.
Discovering the Beauty of Kimolos
The perlite mine at Prassa, in the north-east of Kimolos between Cape Pouli and Cape Agios Georgios is visible for miles. Especially from the mountainous areas of western Sifnos, such as Fikadia Bay, formed like a pocket in the south-west, to the monastery of Toso Nero, close to Kamares Bay further north.
This half erased, dome-like hill, constantly struck by waves at its base, has been clawed at throughout time. First by hand and then machine, exposing an interior of such white purity it resembles a gigantic mirror reflecting brightness of unmatched intensity. This is especially notable in hot summer weather, when the sun is less forgiving. It stands ravaged, a symbol of this island in antiquity when it was a battleground between Athens, ruler of Kimolos, and Milos, ruled by Sparta.
The undulating golden hillsides characteristic of its south and west, charm the journeying eye that spies them, memorising their blissful details on its way to neighbouring Milos or more distant Folegandros.
Port Vathi is almost one with Chorio, the island’s capital, at the foot of Mount Xaplovouni, like a patchwork of snowflakes surrounded by terraced hillsides and further off rugged mountains.
I have fond recollections of the northern bay of Agioklima, Cape Gerakia and Monastiria Bay, which I saw by boat while searching for spots to free dive.
There were no signs of humanity, just rocks often overpowering in shape and contrasting in colours. Kimolos is a delight to discover and both above and below water.
Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Poliegos.
Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he writes about his first encounter with Poliegos. This personal story about Poliegos island is the sixth part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.
Discovering the Beauty of Poliegos
Oh, Poliegos. Thou art more lovely … Thoughts of Shakespeare’s Sonnet 18 come to mind when I contemplate how to speak of Poliegos.
I discovered the island on a trip in my inflatable across a coastal village in the north-east of Milos many years ago. Having free-dived the islets of Agios Efstathios and Agios Georgios in the area it also shares with Kimolos, I felt a natural curiosity to explore.
On the western coastline that morning, the sea a depth of a blue unusual outside the Mediterranean, I first reached Manolis Islet, its protective form sheltering, at least partially, the three beaches inside Espano Mersini Bay. Southwards along Cape Pounda, until the bay of Kato Mersini, all was fine.
Poliegos was charming, its verdant, convex hillsides extending up mountains with intricate geometrical shapes, their soil and rock a mix of red, orange, yellow and brown. But from Cape Zios, the scenery changed quite dramatically, and by Skala Grigoriou, with its mining track just a few metres above water extending to a docking point directly over a patch of emerald-turquoise perfection, I thought I was hallucinating.
Upon reaching Kalogiros rock I could take no more, so magnificent was it all. Really, I’d never seen anything like it. Rocks shaped like pyramids metres-high and rising out of water so azure it put the sky to shame.
A beach hidden in isolation, three metres in length, one metre in width, was covered by the finest white sand and had as its backdrop a wall of differing colours, extending sharply upwards at least a hundred metres, the sea in front of it like a lake. Not a soul in sight.
I moored the boat and prepared to dive, the first of many memorable immersions around the island over several years, often concluding after sunset when there’s still a lot of water to cross to get back to Pollonia.
The Pyrgi Channel between Poliegos and Kimolos frequently intensifies waves, causing me stress as I’m forced to take them on the starboard side, with a probability of capsizing. The only successful way to manoeuvre is to position the bow partially into the oncoming force, ride over it as if it’s a hurdle, only to confront the next within moments.
With hundreds of waves none ever the same but each ready to provoke a serious mistake, it was usually a miracle to be back on dry land.
Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Folegandros.
Discovering the Beauty of Folegandros
Every visit to Folegandros is an adventure for me: the climbs, the dives, the treks, the views. One trip remains distinct: my search for big groupers. As a freediver, the Cyclades waters are truly a dream, their turquoise and blues encouraging calm.
It began in Ambeli Bay up in the north. Late afternoon the day I arrived the sunlight was September orange. No one was there. Swimming past an island of rocks made of extensions like a village of steeples submerged, I went on till it got dark, deep and lonely.
This was the place. Watching for signs, I inhaled a last time and descended into the depths kicking my fins and pinching my nose for my ears, my eyes scrutinising the view upside down. I’d done it before on many occasions though not here, not in Folegandros. The current was strong, a warning for sure, too strong for safety, I decided.
Vorina, my choice next day, again to the north just beyond Hora, follows a single slim path through high golden grass over terracing so sheer the return’s a question for much of the way.
Once by the sea, I glanced back to where I’d started from, not thinking I’d see the car so far away. So on with the gear and into the waves my search for big groupers continued. Swimming where the village is perched with Panaghia still higher took time, my metre-long fins doing their best all the way.
What seemed close was far. And then I saw it static in front, except for its wings, unperturbed. The closer I got, the more it appeared it would leave in a flash, but it didn’t. The grouper remained there, curious.
At an arm’s length away, I ceased all movement. We stared at each other, two creatures from earth, sharing the same facial features, though mine hidden, except for eyes that she trusted. A minute went by, what should I do? We’d looked at each other acceptingly; that was enough.
Reluctantly leaving after a blink, the sound of a boat approaching came, loud voices onboard to adding to the noise. Turning a corner, I saw them in front, thrashing around, voicing their excitement with glee.
On I went as quick as I could back to the beach where I’d started. It took ages. Arriving at night, the search for my stuff by the light of a torch began.
All packed away and ready to climb with no energy left I felt laden. The path in the dark, a vertical challenge not to forget, was exhausting. But what an experience.
