The Small Cyclades: A Quiet Greek Island Escape

Small Cyclades guide

Discover Koufonisia, Schinoussa, Iraklia and Donoussa- the Small Cyclades islands between Naxos and Amorgos.

There was a time when most summer trips through the Cyclades revolved around the same islands. Mykonos for the nightlife, Santorini for the sunsets, Paros for the restaurants. But over the last few years, more travellers have started looking beyond the obvious, drawn instead to the smaller islands where days simply feel longer.

These small isles offer a different side of the Cyclades- the villages are quieter, many of the beaches are reached on foot or by boat, and the days tend to revolve around swimming, long lunches and wherever the ferry, the weather or the mood takes you next.

Part of what makes these islands so appealing is how easy they are to experience together. Ferries move between them regularly throughout summer, making it possible to spend a few days on one island before continuing onto the next. And while they sit close to one another, each island feels completely different once you arrive. Koufonisia has its beach bars and bright turquoise water, Schinoussa feels peaceful and very local, Iraklia remains rugged and almost untouched, while Donoussa attracts travellers looking for something completely different from the pace of the larger islands.

Together, they capture the side of the Cyclades many travellers now find themselves searching for most- it’s one that feels laid-back and still closely connected to the stunning landscape and sea around it.

Koufonisia

The most well-known of the Small Cyclades, Koufonisia has become something of a cult favourite over recent years, particularly among younger locals, creatives and Europeans searching for that balance between beautiful beaches and a laid-back vibe. Yet despite its growing popularity, it still feels authentic. 

The island itself is tiny, with most people staying around Chora, where whitewashed laneways, fishing boats and small bars spill towards the water. There are no large resorts here and days are spent swimming, walking between beaches and enjoying dinner and drinks until late.

What makes Koufonisia stand out most is the stunning colour of the water. The coastline shifts between turquoise and deep blue, while the coastal walk from Chora towards Pori Beach has become one of the island’s signature experiences, passing rocky swimming spots, sea caves and tiny coves along the way.

What to See & Do in Koufonisia

One of the best ways to experience Koufonisia is on foo- the coastal path beginning in Chora and stretching towards Pori Beach winds past some of the island’s most beautiful swimming spots, including the sea caves around Gala and Xylobatis, where travellers spend hours jumping from the rocks into impossibly clear water. Boat trips to nearby Kato Koufonisi are also part of the experience, particularly for those wanting a chilled day. By late afternoon, the harbour begins to fill again, with people gathering for drinks as fishing boats drift back towards shore and sunset settles over Chora.

Where to Swim in Koufonisia

Koufonisia’s beaches are a large part of why travellers return year after year. Pori Beach remains the island’s most iconic stretch of sand, while nearby Fanos and Foinikas feel slightly more low-key, with tavernas sitting just steps from the sea. Italida attracts a younger crowd, while Ammos Beach, directly beside Chora, is ideal for quick swims throughout the day. Pisina, a natural rock pool with strikingly clear water, has also become one of the island’s most photographed spots.

Where to Eat & Drink in Koufonisia

Food and drinks on Koufonisia often begin with a late brunch and end with cocktails by the harbour. To Kyma has become a favourite for relaxed breakfasts and brunches before the beach, while Capetan Nikolas remains one of the island’s classic seafood tavernas for long lunches by the water. For traditional dishes in a beautiful seaside setting, head to Finikas, particularly in the afternoon when the beach begins to quieten down.

As evening arrives, the mood around Chora shifts. Sorokos Bar continues to be one of the island’s best-known sunset spots, while Tzet and Mylos Bar draw a stylish crowd for late-night drinks. For dinner, Laska, Mikres Cyclades and New Remezzo are among the places people return to repeatedly throughout summer.

Schinoussa

Smaller and more low-key than Koufonisia, this is the island travellers often fall in love with unexpectedly, as it’s the kind of place where you forget what time of day it is.

There are only a handful of villages, tiny beaches scattered around the coastline and friendly locals who love their island. Many visitors return year after year because very little changes and Schinoussa attracts travellers wanting a simple summer holiday filled with long swims, slow lunches, afternoon naps and evenings spent in small tavernas where everyone seems to know one another.

The beaches here are smaller, many reached via dirt roads or walking paths, while the landscape itself feels raw, rugged and distinctly Cycladic.

What to See & Do in Schinoussa

Evenings here often begin with a wander through Chora, where whitewashed houses, bougainvillea and tiny cafés overlook the surrounding hills and sea. During the day, travellers spend their time exploring hidden coves around the island, hiking between beaches and small chapels or following dirt paths that lead towards quiet stretches of coastline with barely another person in sight. 

Where to Swim in Schinoussa

The beaches on Schinoussa feel beautifully untouched, with no organised scenes or large beach bars distracting from the landscape itself. Psili Ammos is known for its soft sand and calm turquoise water, while Livadi feels more open and rugged, particularly on windy days when the sea changes colour throughout the afternoon. Almyros and Lioliou are smaller and quieter, ideal for travellers wanting a more secluded swim, while Kampos remains one of the island’s lesser-known beaches, often attracting those looking to escape even the small summer crowds.

Where to Eat & Drink in Schinoussa

Food on Schinoussa is tied to the island’s identity, with many tavernas still family-run and centred around traditional Cycladic cooking. Deli has become one of the island’s best-known spots for modern Greek dishes made with local ingredients, while Nikolas Taverna remains a favourite for seafood and long, relaxed dinners that stretch late into the evening.

For something more traditional, many travellers find themselves returning to Hara Kafeneio, particularly for homemade dishes and local sweets served beneath the trees, while Bizeli is known for grilled meats, fresh fish and a lovley setting. 

Iraklia

Of all the Small Cyclades, Iraklia may feel the most untouched. Larger than its neighbouring islands but far quieter in terms of visitors, it is the kind of place where silence becomes part of the experience. There are few crowds and long stretches of coastline where you may not see another person for hours.

Life here moves slowly around the two small settlements of Agios Georgios and Panagia. Travellers come for hiking, wild swimming and complete disconnection. There are no modern hotels or fine dining restaurants and that is what makes it so special. 

One of the island’s highlights is the Cave of Agios Ioannis, considered one of the most important caves in the Cyclades, while the beaches remain beautifully undeveloped and often almost empty, even during peak season.

What to See & Do in Iraklia

Iraklia is the kind of island best experienced on foot or by boat. Hiking trails connect much of the island, including the path between Agios Georgios and Panagia, which passes dry hillsides, tiny chapels and sweeping sea views along the way. One of the island’s most memorable experiences is the walk to the Cave of Agios Ioannis, a vast cave hidden within the hills that has become one of Iraklia’s defining landmarks. Boat trips around the coastline are also popular during summer, particularly for reaching quieter coves and beaches that are breathtaking.

Where to Swim in Iraklia

The beaches on Iraklia are raw and undeveloped, with many remaining completely quiet even in peak season. Livadi Beach, one of the island’s largest stretches of sand, is known for its calm water, while Agios Georgios is ideal for easy swims close to the port. Vorini Spilia attracts more adventurous swimmers with its dramatic rocky setting, and Karvounolakos is remote. Alimia Beach has also become one of the island’s most interesting swimming spots, not only for its crystal-clear water but for the visible WWII plane wreck resting beneath the sea nearby.

Where to Eat & Drink in Iraklia

Dining on Iraklia remains simple and traditional- Akathi is one of the island’s best-known tavernas for seafood and homemade dishes, while Maistrali, overlooking the port, is loved for its relaxed setting and vegetables sourced directly from the family’s garden.

For long, slow lunches or dinner after the beach, many visitors also head to Askos, while Melissa is the perfect stop for coffee and something sweet during the day.

Donoussa

Closest to Amorgos, Donoussa has a wilder, freer feeling than the other Small Cyclades islands. The landscape is more rugged, the coastline dramatic and the atmosphere slightly more bohemian, attracting campers, hikers and travellers looking for a very stripped-back version of island life.

The island’s small main village wraps around the port, while beaches stretch out across the coastline. Kedros Beach, in particular, has become one of the island’s most loved spots, known for its clear water and relaxed atmosphere.

Donoussa feels ideal for travellers wanting to disconnect completely, as days here revolve around walking, swimming and spending long hours outdoors. 

What to See & Do in Donoussa

Hiking trails connect many of the island’s beaches and villages, winding along cliffside paths with uninterrupted views over the Aegean. Kedros Beach remains one of the island’s highlights, not only for its clear water but for the German shipwreck resting beneath the sea just offshore, now a popular snorkelling spot. Many travellers also spend time exploring the tiny village of Mersini, one of the greenest parts of the island, before continuing towards Kalotaritissa, where the coastline becomes noticeably more rugged and dramatic.

Where to Swim in Donoussa

Kedros Beach is the island’s most famous stretch of sand, attracting swimmers, campers and travellers staying for entire afternoons beneath the tamarisk trees. Livadi Beach feels more remote, while Stavros Beach, close to the port, is ideal for easy swims throughout the day. Vathi Limenari, reached by footpath, remains one of the island’s most secluded beaches and rewards those willing to make the walk with exceptionally clear water and complete tranquillity.

Where to Eat & Drink in Donoussa

Food on Donoussa remains simple and local, centred around family-run tavernas, bakeries and relaxed seaside spots. Mitsos Restaurant continues to be one of the island’s best-known tavernas for traditional Greek cooking and dishes served beneath the trees, while Captain George Meat and Grill is popular for grilled meats and casual dinners near the port.

For something lighter during the day, stop by O Panais Bakery for pastries and coffee before the beach, while Enalia is known for its great crepes and relaxed setting. Ampelaki and Simadoura are both great for laid-back lunches by the sea, while Iliovasilema, sitting right beside the beach, is the perfect sunset spot on the island. 

Book your ferry tickets for the Small Cyclades here. 

Main image by Finikas Koufononisa 

 

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Guide to Iraklia, an Unspoiled Paradise in the Cyclades

Iraklia is a tiny island with only 115 residents. But don’t let that fool you. What it lacks in size it makes up for in unspoiled beauty, rich history, scenic beaches, and authenticity; allowing visitors to discover what Greek island life is all about. 

If you are looking to escape the city over summer and searching for a destination that is especially quiet, even during the peak tourist season, Iraklia is an ideal spot that offers peace and tranquility. One of Greece’s best-kept secrets, it’s the largest island of the Small Cyclades and here you can switch off, relax and allow yourself to be captured by its  simple beauty. 

Insights Greece - Guide to Iraklia, an Unspoiled Paradise in the Cyclades

Location

Set between two popular Greek islands, Naxos and Ios, this secluded isle keeps its traditional feel even in high season. Iraklia is a perfect base for island hopping, thanks to its proximity to the rest of the Small Cyclades including Ano Koufonisi, Kato Koufonisi, Schoinoussa, Donousa, and Keros. 

Getting there

Just 1.5 hours by local ferry, you can reach Iraklia from Naxos via Express Skopelitis (Monday – Saturday), or via Blue Star Ferries from Naxos or from Athens (3x per week). Iraklia is connected by ferry with Naxos and all the islands of the Small Cyclades group. 

What you should know before you arrive

– There are no banks and there is only one ATM.

– A couple of mini-markets and one supermarket are located in the main area.

– There is no petrol station or car hire, there are only scooters for rent. 

– No camping facilities available.

– There aren’t any buses or taxis, only a minibus that goes from Agios Georgios to the village of Panagia and to Tourkopigado beach.

– There’s no pharmacy on the island but there are two clinics and a doctor on call 24/7.

– Water and electricity are available for yachts at the port.

Things to do

Insights Greece - Guide to Iraklia, an Unspoiled Paradise in the Cyclades

Hiking: Iraklia is a mountainous destination and you can enjoy the view from different points of

the island. Iraklia has eight distinct hiking trails that are popular with nature lovers. Some of the best hikes are the trails leading to Profitis Ilias and to Merichas, where you can reach one of the most picturesque points of the island.

Snorkeling: Enjoy the fabulous underwater world as the island’s coasts are home to the Mediterranean seal Monachus monachus and the marine turtle Caretta caretta.

Diving: Blessed with a rich marine life, Iraklia offers great opportunities for diving.  Here you can spot the Mediterranean monk seals (mentioned above) and dolphins that frequent the island.

Bird watching: Bird lovers will be in paradise as this is where some rare species make their nest. Mericha Bay is the ideal spot as it’s surrounded by rocks 100m in height and between the cliffs you can see wild pigeons and vultures. Many people come to witness the rare and endangered species and birds.

Walking: This is the best way to get around and when the weather is right, strolling from one beach to the other or from the port to the main village is a wonderful thing to do, especially in the evening.

Things to see 

Insights Greece - Guide to Iraklia, an Unspoiled Paradise in the Cyclades
Panagia Iraklia Village

-The village’s landmark is the 1919 stone-built Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary). The other big attraction is Pigi, a natural spring about 1km away that supplies water to the village. This refreshing spot also offers visitors great views of the northern part of Iraklia and all nearby Cycladic islands.

-A visit to Agios Athanassios is also a must. It’s an old village featuring stone houses built

according to traditional Cycladic architectural style and it offers a breathtaking view. The chapel of Agios Athanassios is at the entry point to the village.

-Located close to Iraklia, to the west of the island, near the bay of Vourkaria is the Cave of Saint John, which consists of a series of chambers with colourful decoration of massive stalagmites and columns in magical clusters of stalactites. The area covering the chambers is 2000 sq.m. and is considered one of the most impressive caves of the Aegean.

The castle is located near Livadi beach, here you can find extensive information about the ancient settlement used as an offensive structure during the Hellenic period.

-From the top of Papas Hill, you can admire the magnificent view of all the adjacent islands including Ios, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Donousa, Ikaria, Makares, Koufonisia, Shinousa, Keros, Antikeri, Fidou, Agrilou, Amorgos, Anhydros, Anafi, Santorini, Venetiko, Avelonisia. You can also see most of the beautiful nearby beaches from here.

Villages 

There are two villages on Iraklia: Agios Georgios, which also serves as the main port of the island, and Panagia, which is a mountainous village with fewer residents. Panagia is a small village with a few taverns and cafes. It stands out for its traditional architecture and the lovely churches around it. Agios Georgios is where the locals of Iraklia gather as its the largest settlement. Approaching the island from the sea, the white-washed homes with blue painted doors stand out from a distance. Here you will find a few taverns, a couple of mini-markets, and churches.

Insights Greece - Guide to Iraklia, an Unspoiled Paradise in the Cyclades

Beaches

As the island is totally untouched by tourism, most beaches are unorganised and remote, meaning most also offer privacy. Some beaches can be reached on foot, while others you can only get to by private boat. Livadi beach and the port beach are the most popular places to swim on the island. You can easily walk here from the harbour and it takes about 20 minutes. Livadi features soft sand, crystal clear water that is shallow, making it ideal for families with young children. Vorini Spilia, is also worth exploring, as it’s a quiet spot, perfect for a long, relaxing day of swimming. Karvounolakos in the south of the island is a small beach between Merichas and Alimia– the colour of the sea here is breathtaking. 

Eat and drink 

There are roughly 15 taverns on the island, most are in the main square and all serve authentic local dishes. Our favourite for a range of freshly made seafood pasta are Akathi, Thalassa, Pera Panta, make sure you also head to Syrma taverna which serves traditional Mediterranean and Greek cuisine and try the homemade rakomelo (raki with honey). To Gialiri taverna is great for a variety of mezzedes (tapas-style dishes), while the ouzeri-café-bar, To Ypovrichio is perfect for an ouzeri style setting. For a coffee or after-dinner drink head to En Lefko or Perasma. For brunch and all-day drinks head to Speires where they serve a rich collection of high-quality wines by small winemakers from all over Greece and Surfin Bird, is an all-day bar-restaurant located on the beautiful Livadi seafront, serving great food using regional produce and homemade sweets. 

Local delicacies

Iraklian honey is famous for its golden coloured texture and unique taste because the bees here feed exclusively from thyme. Also try the wide variety of spoon-sweet preserves and marmalades made from various local fruits, as well as specialty liqueurs such as rakomelo and frangosyko (prickly pear). Cheese lovers will definitely enjoy the different types made from goat’s milk and produced on small scale by local farmers. As for a specific dish, Schinoussa fava (chickpea puree) variety, is a specialty of the island. 

Where to Stay 

Don’t expect 5-star luxury resorts, here it’s all about comfort, coziness, and good old-fashioned Greek hospitality. Most of the rooms are placed on the outskirts of the village towards Livadi (southeast of Agios Georgios). Some of the most popular are Maistrali, Aiolos, Villa Zografos, and for the most modern of them all check out Speires.

Shop

Agerino features a tasteful selection of handmade items such as jewellery, wood-carvings, ceramics, and Cycladic figurines.

Bratsera has a range of handmade jewellery and other small souvenirs as well as a small selection of clothes.

Thalassi stocks a unique collection of handmade jewellery selected from local manufacturers, handmade leather sandals, a variety of caftans, scarfs, hats, and various kinds of accessories. Here you can also find ceramics made by artists from Greece. 

Cover Images by IN+SIGHTS GREECE © (Copyright)