Cycladic Islands Archives - Page 5 of 5

Ultimate Guide to Astypalea

From the moment you arrive, Astypalea will take your breath away. The simplicity of this authentic island, which shares aesthetic elements of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, is what makes this destination extra special!

Its magnificent Chora, the old port, eight picturesque windmills, an imposing Venetian castle built of dark stones; and stunning beaches with crystal clear waters are the main reasons to fall in love with this beautiful island.

What you need to know before you arrive…

Astypalea is a butterfly-shaped isle, located in the Dodecanese in the southeastern Aegean but looks a lot like a Cycladic island. Its position contributed to the fact that it was not included in the wave of rapid tourism developments that evolved on other islands in the 80s and 90s.

Getting there

You have two options- either by ferry or by plane. The journey by ferry takes around 11 hours from Piraeus, Athens. Blue Star Ferries run every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday from the port of Piraeus and Olympic Air flights run daily except Tuesdays, during summertime.

Where to stay- I would strongly recommend staying near Chora.

Getting around- Around Chora, all roads lead to the Castro.

If you just want to explore Chora, the castle, and its surroundings you won’t need a car. But if you’re planning to do some trekking, explore the villages of Livadi and Analipsi, the charming beach of Agios Konstantinos and other distant beaches you’ll definitely need transport. Astyapalea has a regular bus service which connects all the main points of the island. Bus services run between Livadi – Astypalea – Analipsi – New Port – Airport.

Best time to visit

If you are looking for a summer escape the hottest months are August, July, and also June. It’s also perfect in spring, as you can discover the paths through the flower-filled landscape. Some paths pass through traditional creameries producing local cheese.

Where to sleep

Kalderimi Hotel on the road from Chora to Livadi. Designed in traditional island style, there are a total of 11 individual houses, all of which have their own distinct appeal.

Chrysalis Boutique Hotel offers superb views towards the twin-hilled town of Astypalea.

Pylaia Boutique Hotel, situated over a hillside in Astypalea it has two pools and a spa as an extra bonus.

Where to eat

Agoni Grammi at Chora’s square, just opposite the mills for amazing seafood and homemade Makarounes (pasta).

Ageri, simple and tasty.

Aeolos at Pera Gialos for delicious pizza and pasta.

Almyra at Maltezana for fresh fish and lobster pasta.

Paradosiako Kafeneio, a very traditional and authentic place close to the Windmills.

Local delicacies

Homemade Makarounes- traditional pasta typically served with fresh cheese or a garlic sauce.

The island’s cheeses are produced by local shepherds from some 15,000-20,000 animals living in the countryside.

Where to drink

Castro, a bar on top of the charming Chora of Astypalea. It has various levels as the walls of the castle.

Mylos Bar, hidden in the narrow road to the castle.

Kouros, the only nightclub playing Greek music, if you want a surreal experience with dancing on tables.

Where to swim

Livadi, the closest beach to Chora. Half of the beach has sunbeds while the other half remains unorganised.

Maltezana. The settlement consists of several smaller beaches, like Mple Limanaki and Plakes.

Another beach close to Maltezana is Steno, one of the best beaches in Astypalea, separated into two organised beaches, the Mikro Steno (small) and the Megalo Steno (big), both with crystal clear waters and two beach bars.

Vatses, one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, and Tzanakia, another beautiful beach and the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalea. It also has a fantastic view of the castle of Astypalea.

Kaminakia. If you’d like to reach this beach you should calculate approximately 30 minutes of driving. A good part of the road has no asphalt. The beach also has some basic infrastructure and tamarisks that will provide you some shadow. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, but it can also be crowded during the high season.

Agios Ioannis o Richtis is a hidden gem of Astypalea. You’ll have to walk around 30 minutes to reach this outstanding beach with a stunning landscape.

Discover history…

According to Greek mythology, Astypalea and Europe were the daughters of Finikos and Perimidis. The island of Astypalea was first inhabited in the 2nd millennium BC by the Caraes, who came from the ancient region of Caria in Anatolia (present-day Turkey). They were followed by the Minoans of Crete. Astypalea seems to have been a wealthy place during Classical times as it is evident from the high annual tribute they used to pay to Athens. There were many temples on the island at that time, another symbol of prosperity. Fruits and flowers practically covered the entire island, which is why the ancient Greeks used to call it the Table of the Gods. During the Hellenistic period (4th-1st century BC), Astypalea was an important naval base of Ptolemy of Egypt. During the Byzantine years, (4th – 13th century BC) the constant attacks from the pirates forced the inhabitants to abandon their houses at the coast and create new settlements inside the island with strong walls as protection. The castle of Saint John was also built at that time, parts of which you can still see.

Cultural events of the island

Every June, the Astypalea Summer Festival takes place on the island. On the 6thof August, the celebration of Sotiras takes place at the church of Sotiras Christos. On the 27thof July, is the feast day of Aghios Panteleimonas, and the celebration of Panagia Portaitissa takes place at the castle on the 15th of August. On the 8th of September, the traditional celebration in honor of the Virgin Mary takes place at the church of Panagia Poulariani.

Do as locals do…

Have a Greek coffee or a meze at the historic Kafeneio tou Moungou in Hora, watching elderly islanders catch up and play “tavli” (backgammon).

Every local housewife has her favorite secret spot (they’ll probably only share it on their deathbeds) for collecting thyme, sage, and saffron that grows on the island. Every November, the local women get together in a mini-ritual to pluck the saffron threads.

Insider tips…

Watch the full moon pop up from behind the castle- it’s an absolute must in Astypalea. To enjoy the moment to its fullest, reserve a table at Archipelago Café, and devour one of its nice desserts.

Also, the Cave of Negrou offers a beautiful view of the sea and of Vatses Beach, a 20- minute hike away.

To taste breadsticks made with local ingredients such as thyme, oregano, saffron, honey, and cheese, go to Iliana Bakery.

For great breakfast go to Meltemi Café which serves delicious pougia (small pies with fresh cheese, honey, and cinnamon).

For amazing desserts head to Glykia Astropalia, where you can find cheesecake made with hlori and Kolokytha.

Ideal time to spend here? You need 5 – 7 days to really enjoy the place.

Favourite part? The calm and extremely charming alleyways of Chora and the stunning landscape that includes the windmills, the Castle, and Chora.

What to avoid? Believing that maps and roads here are friends. There are no decent maps of Astypalea, not many street names to refer to and as a consequence, Google was not much help. But this has a good part. You can just get lost on the island and explore it by chance.

Top activities-Hiking. Ftera, located just twenty minutes away from Chora by car, is an ideal climbing location. Also, hiking to the highest spot of Astypalea is a unique experience. The chapel of Prophet Elias offers magnificent views of the capital of Astypalea.

Where to shop

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit “KATOA -The second life of things” in Chora -practically a second-hand shop- where you can find old items that the owner has transformed into something new and each one of them comes with a unique story.

At Tsakalos in Maltezana, you can buy honey, jams, liqueurs, body and face creams made with honeycomb, and other local products from Keranthos in Hora.

What to see

The Venetian Castle that stands on a hill above Chora. Its’ walls survive till today.

The eight traditional windmills, preserved until today- the most picturesque spot of Chora.

The Monastery of Saint John, nestled between two steep slopes. It offers a magnificent view of the islets Pontikoussa, Ofidousa, and Ktenia.

Drakos Cave (the Cave of the Dragon) with impressive stalactites and stalagmites of different colors.

The Archaeological Museum that hosts exhibits, such as stone tools, ceramic pottery and jewellery from the Prehistoric and Medieval times. You can also find photos from Negros and Drakos caves.

The Church of Panagia Portaitissa, considered among the most beautiful churches in the Dodecanese.

Also, the Church of Panagia Poulariani, accessed only by boat or on foot. It has a natural rock formation in the shape of the Virgin Mary embracing a child.

Take a day trip to…

Τake the little boat to the nearby uninhabited islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupi (or Kounoupes) with an unbeatable Aegean feel. There are several daily excursions that start from the port of Astypalea around 11 am and return in the late afternoon. They visit both islands and stay approximately two hours at each one. There are currently two options. The first choice includes lunch and drinks and costs 45 € while the other one doesn’t include any food or drink and costs 15 €. Keep in mind that when winds are too strong the excursions are cancelled.

Can’t leave until- You treat yourself to some hlori (a soft local cheese), anthotyro (dried hlori) and kopanisti (a spicy, creamy cheese). And certainly, buy other local products, like sage, oregano, thyme, and chamomile.

*Images by Polina Paraskevopoulou © (Copyright)

Be Inspired by One of Greece’s Leading Photographers

Yiorgos Kordakis is one of Greece’s leading photographers who has exhibited his stunning work across the world- including solo shows in Athens, Paris, London and Los Angeles.

The self-taught photographer has also received many prestigious awards and accolades throughout the years for his sharp, crisp and creative images that have found themselves in galleries, institutions and homes around the globe.

Tell us about your work as a photographer. When did it all begin?

I am a self-taught photographer. Photography was not in my life plans. It was all a coincidence. By pure luck I was involved in the magazine world back in the day. We are talking very late 90s, pre digital era- quite different from today’s world.

How would you describe your photographic style and what subjects do you most love capturing?

Hard to describe it in words. One thing I feel reflects my style, is the fact that I am not interested in being “present”, I do like to keep a distance from whatever it is that I am taking a picture of. I love architecture – the kind I am able to see as a form of sculpture. I also love taking pictures of women, ideally within an architectural context.

Insights Greece - Be Inspired by One of Greece's Leading Photographers

What are a few sources of inspiration for your work?

Ancient Greece, and the Cyclades are my constant sources of inspiration. I can also be inspired by the portrait of an exotic plant, a beautiful hand, or the beauty of my partner in life. I find inspiration in simple, everyday things.

You have also spent a lot of time in New York. Can you please tell us about your time working in the US?

The US and NYC in particular had been a dream of mine for many years. I feel blessed for
being able to spend the time I did there. It was an exceptionally inspirational period for me. It was also a very fun time. I invested a lot of time driving all across the country, as I wanted to explore the real America which led me to working on my “10.000 American Movies” project- my own tribute to the “Americana” subject. I feel very lucky for having the opportunity of experiencing in full the typical American Roundtrip dream to the extent that I did.

What do you enjoy most about your work?

The fact that I get to meet a lot of people, most times beautiful people (inside and outside) is interesting. I also get to visit beautiful places. I can’t imagine a better “office”.

You mentioned you have a passion for architectural photography. Is this something you are focusing on at the moment?

Yes, I can’t imagine not being interested in architecture. I am sure I must have been an architect in a previous life.

You have received many international awards throughout the years, is there anything you are most proud of to date?

I don’t pay much attention to the awards. What makes me proud is when a collector decides to purchase one of my works or a person shares kind words about my work. It gives me enormous pleasure and makes it all worthwhile.

Your amazing photography has been showcased throughout many exhibitions. Are there any projects you are currently working on that will be seen in the near future?

I am working on a few projects at the moment but I am not sure when I will be ready to show some of that work – we live in weird times. If all goes well I should be showing in Basel and Venice next year, two shows that have been postponed this year due to Covid. One is a Solo and a Retrospective show , the other is a Group one, in which I will showcase some new work.

You travel around Greece quite often for work. Can you tell us a few of your favourite destinations for Spring? Summer? Autumn and Winter?

Peloponnese and Olympia in particular is beautiful in the spring. One has to see the Archaeological Site of Olympia when the almond trees are blooming. For the summer my favourite places are Koufonisia and Patmos. Mykonos is magical in Autumn and for the winter Pilio is the place to be.

What was the highlight of your summer travels in Greece for 2020?

This was the first time that I brought my baby daughter with me on a business trip.

Can your work be purchased online?

Yes, you can either visit my website yiorgoskordakis, or my Instagram account @yiorgoskordakis. You can also visit the galleries representing my work galerie-karsten-greve or voltzclarke.

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Next Cycladic Stop, Anafi

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first discovery of Anafi.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. As a child, the Londoner with Caribbean blood went to Anafi as one of his first Cycladic island experiences, described here. This personal story about Anafi is the second in a narrative series created by him especially for In+Sights Greece that will run over the next few weeks.

Discovering the Beauty of Anafi

Years had passed and still I stared over curling crests towards Anafi; Mount Kalamos, its towering monolith in white, reflecting light to where I stood in Lucas bay, that day, on Ios island. “Enough”, I thought, it’s time to go. “It’s been so long that I’ve said, no, but not this time, no, not this time.”

Heading back to Manganari on ancient paths as guide, I packed my inflatable, other belongings and sighed. The forceful waves of deepest blue were extra rough beyond Santorini, and though the ship plunged and soared – no way to get bored – I enjoyed myself serenely.

I slept in the port in a room by the water overlooking my boat now inflated and ready to sail. Next morning at seven, I awoke to a view as sweet as any I’d seen. “Like heaven unveiled”, I decided, and with petrol and cheese pie waved goodbye to the lady who owned the hotel.

Pachia was first then it was Makra, two islands not near but neither that far away. From south to north I travelled the sea to where the Monastery of Kalamiotissa sits atop the famous rock and looks out as far as the eye can perceive.

Two anchors down from bouncing around, I entered and dived and felt more alive, but had to resurface for air. Above my head, birds galore were squawking to the extreme, so I left to explore elsewhere, somewhere I’d still never been.

First, there was Hora with its personal aura of complex historical charm. I crisscrossed its streets to where everyone meets high-up in the centre of town and from there I could see as far as a tree near a rock shaped much like a crown.

Next day, the spray from the sea was all over me as I navigated the island entirely, and happy I was to write it all down in my personal leather-bound diary.

Discover more of Mark Wilman’s Photography here

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Next Cycladic Stop, Kimolos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on Kimolos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he
writes about his first encounter with Kimolos island. This personal story about Kimolos is part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Kimolos

The perlite mine at Prassa, in the north-east of Kimolos between Cape Pouli and Cape Agios Georgios is visible for miles. Especially from the mountainous areas of western Sifnos, such as Fikadia Bay, formed like a pocket in the south-west, to the monastery of Toso Nero, close to Kamares Bay further north.

This half erased, dome-like hill, constantly struck by waves at its base, has been clawed at throughout time. First by hand and then machine, exposing an interior of such white purity it resembles a gigantic mirror reflecting brightness of unmatched intensity. This is especially notable in hot summer weather, when the sun is less forgiving. It stands ravaged, a symbol of this island in antiquity when it was a battleground between Athens, ruler of Kimolos, and Milos, ruled by Sparta.

The undulating golden hillsides characteristic of its south and west, charm the journeying eye that spies them, memorising their blissful details on its way to neighbouring Milos or more distant Folegandros.

Port Vathi is almost one with Chorio, the island’s capital, at the foot of Mount Xaplovouni, like a patchwork of snowflakes surrounded by terraced hillsides and further off rugged mountains.

I have fond recollections of the northern bay of Agioklima, Cape Gerakia and Monastiria Bay, which I saw by boat while searching for spots to free dive.

There were no signs of humanity, just rocks often overpowering in shape and contrasting in colours. Kimolos is a delight to discover and both above and below water.

Check out Mark Wilman’s Photography here

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Next Cycladic Stop, Poliegos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Poliegos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he writes about his first encounter with Poliegos. This personal story about Poliegos island is the sixth part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Poliegos

Oh, Poliegos. Thou art more lovely … Thoughts of Shakespeare’s Sonnet 18 come to mind when I contemplate how to speak of Poliegos.

I discovered the island on a trip in my inflatable across a coastal village in the north-east of Milos many years ago. Having free-dived the islets of Agios Efstathios and Agios Georgios in the area it also shares with Kimolos, I felt a natural curiosity to explore.

On the western coastline that morning, the sea a depth of a blue unusual outside the Mediterranean, I first reached Manolis Islet, its protective form sheltering, at least partially, the three beaches inside Espano Mersini Bay. Southwards along Cape Pounda, until the bay of Kato Mersini, all was fine.

Poliegos was charming, its verdant, convex hillsides extending up mountains with intricate geometrical shapes, their soil and rock a mix of red, orange, yellow and brown. But from Cape Zios, the scenery changed quite dramatically, and by Skala Grigoriou, with its mining track just a few metres above water extending to a docking point directly over a patch of emerald-turquoise perfection, I thought I was hallucinating.

Upon reaching Kalogiros rock I could take no more, so magnificent was it all. Really, I’d never seen anything like it. Rocks shaped like pyramids metres-high and rising out of water so azure it put the sky to shame.

A beach hidden in isolation, three metres in length, one metre in width, was covered by the finest white sand and had as its backdrop a wall of differing colours, extending sharply upwards at least a hundred metres, the sea in front of it like a lake. Not a soul in sight.

I moored the boat and prepared to dive, the first of many memorable immersions around the island over several years, often concluding after sunset when there’s still a lot of water to cross to get back to Pollonia.

The Pyrgi Channel between Poliegos and Kimolos frequently intensifies waves, causing me stress as I’m forced to take them on the starboard side, with a probability of capsizing. The only successful way to manoeuvre is to position the bow partially into the oncoming force, ride over it as if it’s a hurdle, only to confront the next within moments.

With hundreds of waves none ever the same but each ready to provoke a serious mistake, it was usually a miracle to be back on dry land.

markwilman.com

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Next Cycladic stop, Folegandros

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Folegandros.

Discovering the Beauty of Folegandros

Every visit to Folegandros is an adventure for me: the climbs, the dives, the treks, the views. One trip remains distinct: my search for big groupers. As a freediver, the Cyclades waters are truly a dream, their turquoise and blues encouraging calm.

It began in Ambeli Bay up in the north. Late afternoon the day I arrived the sunlight was September orange. No one was there. Swimming past an island of rocks made of extensions like a village of steeples submerged, I went on till it got dark, deep and lonely.

This was the place. Watching for signs, I inhaled a last time and descended into the depths kicking my fins and pinching my nose for my ears, my eyes scrutinising the view upside down. I’d done it before on many occasions though not here, not in Folegandros. The current was strong, a warning for sure, too strong for safety, I decided.

Vorina, my choice next day, again to the north just beyond Hora, follows a single slim path through high golden grass over terracing so sheer the return’s a question for much of the way.

Once by the sea, I glanced back to where I’d started from, not thinking I’d see the car so far away. So on with the gear and into the waves my search for big groupers continued. Swimming where the village is perched with Panaghia still higher took time, my metre-long fins doing their best all the way.

What seemed close was far. And then I saw it static in front, except for its wings, unperturbed. The closer I got, the more it appeared it would leave in a flash, but it didn’t. The grouper remained there, curious.

At an arm’s length away, I ceased all movement. We stared at each other, two creatures from earth, sharing the same facial features, though mine hidden, except for eyes that she trusted. A minute went by, what should I do? We’d looked at each other acceptingly; that was enough.

Reluctantly leaving after a blink, the sound of a boat approaching came, loud voices onboard to adding to the noise. Turning a corner, I saw them in front, thrashing around, voicing their excitement with glee.

On I went as quick as I could back to the beach where I’d started. It took ages. Arriving at night, the search for my stuff by the light of a torch began.

All packed away and ready to climb with no energy left I felt laden. The path in the dark, a vertical challenge not to forget, was exhausting. But what an experience.

Mark Wilman Photography

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Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Sifnos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Sifnos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he writes about his first encounter with Sifnos island. This personal story about Sifnos is the next part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Sifnos I escaped the day I arrived that first time in Sifnos having already paid for a room with a view in scenic Kamares. The intention had been to dive, setting up the inflatable boat there in the port, but without hoisting equipment it couldn’t be achieved. There were no sections close enough to water level to follow the usual procedure where I’d walk with the engine into the sea and attach it to the stern. This meant those extraordinary rocky inlets and bays on the island’s western side, the ones seen from ferries, were now inaccessible.

Elsewhere, the roads always ended at breathtaking sandy beaches, each entailing excessive swimming to reach areas of depth where marine life would be sufficiently evolved. The tiny, deeply-set, ancient port of Hersonissos in the north was the only exception, and I swam outwards in the direction of the open sea for a couple of hours until it became clear that my return would be difficult and exhausting if the current picked up. So I left defeated, not returning for twelve years.

We returned in June when I was photographing for my project. Much of the emphasis had, in the early stages, been placed on Roxana, the female figure in my photos, with a quite remarkable result. The centrepiece of the work, Lost Lady Of Sikinos, Neiko, had seen us anticipate by two years one of the most significant findings in modern Greek archeological history at the exact location, following the precise theme: the tomb of a noblewoman buried hermetically beneath the interior of the monumental church of Episkopi in a remote part of Sikinos in the 2nd century A.D. Orientation was now focused entirely on researching landscapes and sea views without transportation, just on foot, to capture as much detail as possible. We trekked over 300km around Sifnos; through valleys, up hills and over mountains. The ancient mining area at Achladas Bay, where Agios Sostis church stands on the island’s north-eastern side was fascinating, its wide-step antiquated path an experience in itself.

Mark Wilman Photography

Insights Greece - Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Sifnos

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Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Milos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Milos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. This personal story about Milos is the fourth in a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE that will run over the next few weeks.

Insights Greece - Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Milos

Discovering the Beauty of Milos

Too tough on the car, too rough on the tyres, that’s the west of Milos. The sun in my face, I drove at a pace so slow it went on for hours. Lonely but lovely Agkathia bay as far away as it is; twice I was there under the glare, standing where once there were flowers.

It really is a beautiful place and next time I’ll stay for longer. For some reason it’s been a late afternoon arrival both times, and the road does take that much effort.

I finned my way to Sykia cave along from Agios Ioannis, its miniature beach is well out of reach to most of its passersby, and its hole in the roof is natural proof of beauty under the sky. When I got there, people did stare, wondering “No boat?” I stayed for a while offering a smile, but then they were gone, by a mile. The location is simply amazing with its entrance through a rockface into an interior bay that has its own beach, and that skylight view through the hole overhead.

Along the way to Kleftiko, the arch in the sea in the south, the road played a joke so there was no hope of getting to where I’d planned. To the right I steered, then a left appeared which led me back … to the sand.

I didn’t try that one again though it was an enjoyable trip along the coast on an unpaved road that was under construction at the time.

One place I’m enchanted by is this enormous rock with its humpback form separate from Milos by only a few miles. I’ve walked and climbed and crawled through mines there looking for clues from the past; the air was cold, the tracks were old, but bold was I in the dark.

Erimomilos, or Antimilos, is the isle of my dreams for fishing. It’s so far away but maybe one day… Until then I’ll just go on wishing.

Mark Wilman

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Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: It all Began with Ios

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on Ios.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. As a child, the Londoner with Caribbean blood went to Ios on his first Cycladic island experience, described here. This personal story about Ios kicks off a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE and will run over the next few weeks.

Discovering the Beauty of Ios

The journey from Piraeus was thirteen hours on the Elli, arriving at Ios in the middle of the night. It was July 1974, warm and windy. There was light from only a single lamppost but the small hotel was easy to see behind the quay. The owner’s daughter was there. Tanned with short blonde hair, about thirty, and athletic, she didn’t look European and spoke no English, but she could see we were dying of thirst and within minutes had brought up chilled water in unusually shaped jugs, like glass footballs with necks extra long.

Insights Greece - Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: It all Began with Ios — Ios Port Bay

Next morning early, I left my mother and three younger sisters sleeping to explore the beach near the port. Within a few days, I’d deeply cut the exterior of my right knee on a broken bottle pointing upwards under the sand playing goalkeeper and had to be stitched up in the village hospital, though not by the island doctor who was in Naxos delivering his child. There was no anesthetic so my focus on the ceiling 5 metres above was rather intense, a grip between my teeth. Forty years later, waiting to speak to the mayor about my photography at his office on the rear side of the building, I looked upwards whilst sitting in the reception and gasped, finally.

The taste of wild oregano on a pizza from a small place in a semi-dark alleyway behindthe port one evening is still memorable today, as it will be everyday. It was explosive and made me feel alive, very aware of my surroundings from that moment on. The stitches came out, Dad arrived and freediving began.

My father was a serious scuba diver involved in managing the British Sub Aqua Club in London. He liked to encourage me to keep going deeper, in my nice orange fins.We’d walk over rugged hillsides unavoidably scratching legs on sharp thorns for much of the way to get to rocky bays on the exposed western side with new Greek friends, one of whom was the doctor on holiday who’d kindly closed the wound, another was an able spear-fisherman.

My sisters and I learned to say: “Ena, thio, tria … ena, thio, tria …” as far as a hundred, over and over, especially on our trips up the steep ancient path to the Ios Club for sunsets with Haendel, Beethoven and Mozart, and back. The boat trips to Manganari were always memorable, so beautiful was this bay with its five beaches.

This is the origin of my experiences in the Cyclades. We were there the next year doing it again, and again two years later, and then lots of other times, though just me by then, mostly.

Mark Wilman

Cyclades Cycladic Islands Ios

What it’s Like to Solo Travel in ‘Lover’s Island’ of Santorini

Santorini is one of the most romantic destinations in the world- a place where couples from all over the globe visit to celebrate weddings and honeymoons. But that didn’t stop 22-year-old journalism graduate and social influencer Ciara Rose from taking a trip to this breathtaking destination alone!

Ciara, who currently resides in California, spoke with IN+SIGHTS GREECE about what it was like exploring this famous Cycladic island solo and shares some great tips on what to do here on your own.

What made you decide to travel solo to Santorini?

While I was studying abroad in Rome, I realised living in Europe was the perfect opportunity to travel to some of my dream destinations. I had always wanted to visit Santorini, so I seized the moment. I chose to travel solo partly so that I could create an itinerary completely to my liking, and also because I hadn’t met any other student at the time who had the same interests. I learned that you simply cannot wait for others to live your best life.

Did you have any hesitation after booking?

To be honest, I didn’t realise how romantic Santorini was until I checked into my hotel as the only partner-less guest. To me, I was simply treating myself to a luxurious experience. I had travelled to Florence and Pisa alone weeks prior, so I felt empowered enough to enjoy my time on the island and gave myself enough activities to combat any feelings of loneliness.

How much did you research before you arrived?

I planned every aspect of my trip down to the hour- from my round-trip flight, my hotel, the shuttle to the hotel and back, restaurants, excursions, and more! While being spontaneous is nice, I find it vital to plan every trip so that you have a backup plan in place.

What was your first impression?

I was immediately in awe! Everything was beautiful – the whitewashed houses carved into the cliffs, the endless Aegean Sea, it was simply breathtaking. I loved the feeling of being there, it was remote and almost empty to the point where I felt as if I had the whole island to myself, as I travelled in the off-peak month of March and I couldn’t wait to explore!

What did you love most about this famous Cycladic island?

I loved the contrast- it felt both large and small, intimate and adventurous, welcoming, and distant. I loved the strong winds, the stray animals, and the incredible views of the sea.

Your favourite experiences?

Even during the off-season, I found many things to do. My favorite experience was booking a photoshoot with Greek photographer, Panos. He took me to the best locations on the island and in the end, I had over 100 amazing shots. I also highly enjoyed horseback riding. It was just me and the instructors, and I got to learn more about their business and Greek history while riding off into the sunset. Finally, I got a fish “pedicure” at a salon that was interesting, to say the least – definitely a must-try.

Did you find the locals friendly and welcoming?

They are gregarious and understand when tourists need assistance. I got lost during a hike to Oia, had no cell reception, and desperately needed a taxi back to my hotel. I knocked on the door of a few locals who were having a gathering, and the ones that spoke English gave me accurate directions for the way to the taxi station. I’m so thankful for that.

Was there a time when you felt alone or unsafe?

The nights in Santorini were the most difficult – it was chilly and quiet, and being so close to the sea alone felt strangely isolating. Also, given that most of the cell reception was spotty and unstable, my anxiety increased, especially during my four-hour hike to Oia and back. During that hike, I was truly alone because I didn’t even have the security of the hotel staff to account for me if anything were to happen. I was also briefly lost there for a moment and had to rely on my instincts to guide me back to safety. However, when I was in the main areas and actually around other people, I felt much better.

Would you recommend Santorini for solo travellers?

I would not let the stigma around Santorini being a “couples only” destination deter any solo travellers from visiting. It is entirely possible to plan an enjoyable trip here completely alone.

If you did it again, what would you do differently?

Initially, I thought, “yes, I would take someone with me on this trip,” but then I changed my answer. I believe that being solo on this trip forced me outside my comfort zone, which allowed me to further grow and mature as a person, I also gained a lot of inspiration. This is essentially one of the most important benefits of solo travel – it teaches you to rely only on yourself. The only thing is I would maybe visit closer to April or May when more shops are open and before the chaos of the summer months.

Will you be heading back to Greece?

I would love to take my mother to Greece to see her experience the massive beauty and culture the country has to offer. If I ever get married, I would also bring my partner here to explore.

Your tips for travelling to Santorini alone?

Plan at least a month in advance of where you wish to stay, how long for, and have an idea of what to do. Also, get your money converted and bring enough cash – many vendors did not take cards and the ATMs charge fees. I would advise setting up an international cellular plan with your mobile so you remain connected to home and can make calls in case of any emergencies. Lastly, I would say to have fun! Enjoy it to the fullest because travelling solo is a luxury, not many have the flexibility, time, or confidence to do so, so take pride in your freedom and find a way to document your time. I recommend journaling, creating a website/portfolio, or starting a blog like I did so that you can reflect on the day and read it back years later.

You can read more about Ciara Rose’s travels here.

Cycladic Islands Greece Greek holiday Greek islands holiday to Greece Santorini solo travel solo travelling

Our Ultimate Travel Guide to Mykonos

Mykonos is a playground for the rich and famous. From luxurious yachts to inevitable star-spotting, this is the Greek isle to see and be seen. Whatever your style and taste, our ultimate guide to Mykonos reveals the best places where you can eat, swim and play!

Having visited for the first time in my early 20s, I was captured by the island’s 24-hour party vibe. Stunning beaches, international DJs, late-night outings, great food, sunrises. I just felt alive. Having visited many more times since then, I can say it has now become a super cosmopolitan island, even more luxurious and in line with renowned European party locations such as St Tropez and Ibiza. There are always new places popping up, so here’s my current must-see and do list when visiting this ultra-chic Cycladic isle.

Getting there

From Athens, it’s a 35-minute flight. The quick ferry (Rafina to Mykonos) takes 2.5 hours and roughly 5 hours with the slow ferry.

Where to stay

The main town has many hotels to suit a range of budgets- staying here allows you to walk around the centre day and night. Agios Ioannis/ Ornos is also a great spot as it’s close to town- only a 2-minute drive but not as crowded. Platis Gialos is a gorgeous spot and close proximity to the beach clubs. Ftelia Beach is on the other side of the island and allows for more privacy and a chilled vibe.

Getting around

If you are staying in town it’s completely walkable. Buses take you to all the main beaches and depart regularly. Of course, hiring a car allows you to really discover the island and you can drive to remote beaches that aren’t so crowded. There is valet and free parking available all over the island. A Vespa is another great way to zip your way around the tight and winding Mykonian roads.

To sleep

Located in Ornos, Cactus is a charming boutique hotel that is perfect for singles and families, or you can try Hippie Chic in Agios Ioannis which is another mid-range priced hotel that’s central and stylish. If you would like to stay close to the shops and nightlife Harmony is set on the Old Port and offers complete sea views. If money isn’t an issue check out Bill & Coo, Rocabella, Branco, and Cavo Tagoo, which offer a super luxurious stay.

Insights Greece - Our Ultimate Travel Guide to Mykonos — Cactus Hotel

To eat

Starting off casual, grab yourself a gelato from Bon Bon Fait Maison or a souvlaki from Sakis Grill House. For some great dining experiences try Kikis Tavern at Agios Sostis Beach but get there early, as there is always a wait. For amazing Asian food try Ling Ling. Super fresh seafood is served at Hippie Fish and at Spilia you will enjoy oysters shucked right in front of you. For fresh, handmade pasta and pizza head to Fresca Barkia Pasta. If you are after a range of Mediterranean dishes, Kastros in Little Venice is great. And for one of the best meals in town (that won’t blow the budget), try M-eating– don’t leave until you taste the homemade Myconian Honey Pie. For amazing outdoor dining try Bakalo- they serve traditional tavern-style dishes, Mr Pug restaurant for great Asian, La Maison De Katrin has a fusion of traditional Greek and French elements, and at I Frati you will have a delightful Italian culinary experience, located just a bit out of town.

To drink

This list is truly endless but I love Semeli Bar right on the water in Little Venice and Cosi is also a great place for a casual drink. Remezzo, established in 1967 is world-renowned for its parties that go until sunrise (incredible views). Astra in the heart of town is always buzzing, while Bonbonierrie is perfect for people watching, star-spotting, and some shisha. Queens of Mykonos is cozy, fun, and the crowd spills out onto the streets. Baos Bar is ideal for afternoon drinks on the water- followed by a late-night dance. For an exclusive Myconian nightclub experience head to Moni, and for Greek music make your way to Rhapsody and 4711, where the party kicks off after 2 am!

To swim

Try to get to all of these beaches (in no particular order)- Ornos, Panormos, Ftelia, Agia Anna, and Kalatafi. I also recommend a boat ride around the island, where you can visit secluded beaches.

Beach bars

If you want to rub shoulders with global celebrities and socialites just head straight for Nammos, Mykonos’ famous spot to swim and play (just make sure there’s plenty of money on your credit card.) For a more artistic and holistic experience, Scorpios is an all-day bar/restaurant that offers a real Myconian beach feel. At Panormos beach, you will discover Principote where you can also wine, dine, and dance the afternoon away. For a more chilled vibe head to Alemagou at Ftelia Beach where you can enjoy great food, cocktails, and music in a bohemian setting. And for families who are after some sports activities, Ornos is a great place for people of all ages.

Where to shop

Mostly in town, as many international designers including LV and Balenciaga have set up shop here. At Nammos Village you will find Dior, Burberry, Oscar de la Renta, Christian Louboutin, and Luisa boutique. Another stylish store that stocks international and local designers is Bazaar at Scorpios. Bollicine is a great concept store with exclusive brands and a rooftop bar, so you can enjoy a cocktail while you shop. Chora Mykonos has amazing Cycladic home décor and Yasemi features stunning sandals. While Soho Soho boutique is home to numerous leading European and International fashion brands.

Galleries

Minima Gallery showcases a range of contemporary artworks by both upcoming Greek and foreign artists. At Skoufa Gallery you can view historically significant contemporary art of the 1930s. For modern art head to Rarity Gallery and for a gallery/auction house that promotes local artists definitely check out Kapopoulos Fine Arts.

Spiritual sites

Mykonos has over 800 churches on the island, I highly suggest you see a few such as Panagia Paraportiani, Panagia Tourliani, Agios Giorgos, and the Virgin of Saint Rosary which is the only Catholic church on the island.

History

You must get close to the iconic Kato Mili Windmills, Armenistis Lighthouse, and also head to Ano Mera the second largest village on the island where you can visit the 13th-century Gyzi Castle.

Do as locals do…

Go to isolated beaches such as Agios Sotis and Fokas beach, head to a Panigiri (festival) by the beach, have a drink at Bakoyias near the Old Port, and catch an outdoor film under the stars at Cine Manto.

Take a day trip to…

The ancient island of Delos, where Apollo was born, or take a ferry across to Tinos and visit Panagia Evangelistria, where the Virgin Mary appeared.

Can’t leave until…

You find Peter the famous Pelican, have a dance at Jackie O and watch the sunset at 180 Degrees Sunset Bar.

Athens Cycladic Islands Greece travel Greek islands Greek travel Mykonos Mykonos bars Mykonos beaches Mykonos eat out Mykonos hotels Mykonos island Nammos travel Mykonos

Experiencing Santorini Like a Local

Santorini is one of the world’s most popular islands- known for its crisp white cliffside homes, romantic walkways, mesmerising sunsets and the world’s only inhabited Caldera.

Over the last few years (pre-COVID) Santorini played host to two million visitors and although this popular Cycladic island is filled with tourists, you can actually avoid the massive crowds and enjoy a more authentic experience when guided by a local.

IN+SIGHTS GREECE spoke with hotel owner George Sigalas, who was born and raised in Santorini, and along with his siblings, George warmly welcomes thousands of guests each year to Above Blue Suites and Amber Light Villas.

Here he shares tips about his beloved island and also takes us through his beautiful hotels, which were built by his grandfather.

What do you love most about your island home?

I really love a lot of things about our island- the fresh air, the sea, our enchanting Caldera but mainly the people- my family and friends.

Insights Greece - Experiencing Santorini Like a Local

What makes your hotels stand out?

There are many hotels with similar facilities but what makes ours unique is the personal touch and the love we have for our guests. Above Blue Suites consists of ten suites and one villa- offering a unique combination of privacy, luxury, unique interior design, and breathtaking views of the endless blue sea and the famous sunset. Amber Light Villas is curved in the mountain and provides comfortable villas opening up to private terraces and balconies with stunning views out to the Aegean Sea. We want everyone to have a unique experience that will create lasting memories. We do it with love, passion, and a smile because that’s how we feel.

What changes have you made to your hotels since you took over from your grandfather?

We have definitely given a lot of emphasis on the upgrade of our facilities and services, including the heating of the pool. We also expanded our menu to include gluten-free and vegan dishes. Of course, we try to improve day by day.

Where are your favourite places to eat out?

There are many good spots but I would recommend Kira Katina in Ammoudi for seafood, Agogi in Imerovigli for traditional delicacies, and also Metaxi Mas in Pyrgos, for the famous Rakomelo. For brunch head to TERA NERA in Perivolos as well Galini restaurant. The places for ice cream- Chill Box in Fira and Lolita’s Gelato in Oia.

Must-try local delicacies or dishes?

Santorini Fava, Tomatokeftedes, Santorini salad, and Fried White Eggplant. Also don’t leave the island without drinking a glass of Ouzo, while enjoying local seafood by the sea.

For a drink?

In Fira, you will find the famous Enigma and Mamounia bars, where you can enjoy a drink and music, as well as PK and Tango Bar.

Best places to swim?

The best beaches in Santorini are located in the southern part of the island and are none other than Perissa and Perivolos, which features black sand due to the volcanic eruption- definitely a unique experience.

Archeological must-see sites?

Akrotiri is definitely worth a visit. The settlement was one of the most important urban centres and ports of the Aegean during the Middle and Late Bronze Age. Also, for hiking lovers, I would unreservedly recommend a visit to Ancient Thira. It is an ancient city located at the top of Mesa Vouno, the city was founded in the 8th century BC. Access to the city is on foot, with stairs to the mountain slope.

What are some of the most authentic experiences you can have on the island?

Start with a visit to Kastelli village in Pyrgos and admire its wonderful view. Then head to the traditional village of Megalochori and try a Greek coffee from a traditional coffee maker. The architecture of the village in combination with the Greek aromas will make you sense the true heartbeat of the island. Akrotiri is also a beautiful village worth visiting. Entering the archeological site you will feel the aura of the settlement and its inhabitants who were so suddenly lost by the eruption of the volcano. There are many traditional taverns such as Delfinia that serve delicious Tomatokeftedes and other Greek delicacies.

To capture the spectacular sunset?

To enjoy the famous sunset you have to head to Imergovigli as it’s the highest point of the Caldera and the view here is magical.

Top activities?

Hike from Fira to Oia. Being a local and having done this route many times, I can tell you that for a few minutes, you will feel as though you are walking in paradise. The view is magical and unique. I’m sure the experience will reward you. Also, a catamaran trip to the volcano and the hot springs is a must!

And you must visit one of the wineries on the island to taste local wines. Ideally, you should visit at least three wineries to browse the vineyards of the island and taste some of the most delicious and famous wines in the world.

Best places to shop?

In Fira, there are many boutique stores, and souvenir shops. In Oia, you will also find amazing galleries, jewellery shops, and concept stores. Also in Oia, you will find the leading Atlantis bookstore, which has been named one of the best in the world.

Must-see museums and monasteries?

Any museums or monasteries that shouldn’t be missed? Definitely the prehistoric settlement in Akrotiri but also Ancient Thira in Kamari. In Fira, you will find the Archaeological and the Folklore Museum of Thira. Do not miss a visit to the Wine Museum of Mr. Koutsogiannopoulos, it’s amazing. Also, the Monastery of the Prophet Elias in Pyrgos is located at the top of the mountain and so you can admire its architecture as well as the panoramic view of Santorini from its highest point.

Above Blue Suites Amber Light Villas Caldera Cycladic Islands Greece Greece travel Greek holiday Greek islands Santorini