Whitewashed houses, delicious food, unbeatable beaches. This is Naxos in one sentence. My favourite Greek island that never ceases to amaze me.
Naxos is the largest Cycladic island and it has it all. Beautiful beaches, ancient sites and museums, great food, atmospheric mountainous villages, and a cosmopolitan atmosphere for those who want to stay out all night. It has something for every type of traveller and fulfills even the most demanding one.
I visited the island for the third time in September 2020, and besides visiting my usual go-to spots, this time I discovered a few more gems as well. Are you ready to travel with me?
1. Plaka beach will always be my number one. Crystal-clear waters, fine sand, and amazing views that take your breath away. My second favorite would be Mikri Vigla with its mesmerizing green waters. Agios Prokopios deserves a shout-out too, but then again, all Naxos beaches do, to be fair.
2. Plaka area has introduced a few great places for snacks, food, and drinks that made me want to return again and again. Excellent tastes, well-presented dishes made with local products, and charming boho vibes. Try Tohu, Tortuga, Yucca, and Cedars. I did slightly prefer Yucca as their sunbeds were super comfortable! I also loved their spinach salad- the local sun-dried tomatoes were mouthwatering.
3. Naxos has turned good food into an identity, making it ideal for food enthusiasts. You have most probably heard of Axiotissa tavern. Well, there is a good reason for their great reputation and they surely know how to maintain it. Their variety of dishes makes you want to come back for more (I think I visited it at least three times while on the island). If you’re up for fresh fish, call them in the morning and ask them to hold the day’s fish for you. If you’re more into meat, then Axiotissa has you fully covered. Accompany everything with the famous Naxian potatoes and salads. I promise you will leave the place more than satisfied.
Koronos Village
4. If you’re in the mood for Italian, then visit Dal Professore restaurant in Naxos town. It’sone of the best Italian places I have ever tried; thumbs up to the chef. They’re pizza- made using three different types of flour- and the pasta were exquisite.
5. And since you’re in Town, head over to the all-time classic Waffle House for a delicious waffle or ice-cream. There is also a Waffle House in the Plaka area!
6. Moutsouna village is another place you have to add to your list. It’s a picturesque little village, with a beautiful beach and a fantastic tavern under the trees. Make sure to ask for Manolis and order fresh fish.
7. One of the reasons why I love Naxos so much is its unique way of combining the sea with the mountains. Take a break from the summer heat and discover Apeiranthos, one of the most picturesque villages of the island, the”jewel” of Naxos as locals call it. Explore its alleys and when you’re done exploring, seek Amorginos tavern to try their “rosto”, while sitting outside and admiring the lush green views.
8. Koronos is one more village worth discovering. I was fascinated by its narrow alleys and admired the refreshing views by drinking Greek coffee at Perasma café.
9. Wandering around the Town’s alleys will always be one of my favorite things to do. Ilove discovering cute little shops with handmade items. This year I got myself a lovely necklace from one of these shops. I do not recall its name, but I’m sure you will find your own favorite!
10. Last but not least, wander around the Castle of Naxos and fall in love with its beautiful corners. The other side of the Town, though, also deserves a visit. Walk by the coastal road to take in the delightful views.
It’s important to highlight that all facilities and establishments were following all health protocols and taking all the necessary precautions and measures to ensure visitors’ safety.
I left a piece of my heart in Naxos and promised to be back again soon, to enjoy my favorite places and discover new ones. What matters now is to stay safe and healthy, and Naxos will always be there, waiting for us to fall-again-in love with everything it has to offer!
On Monday, Greek Government Spokesperson Stelios Petsas announced that the current lockdown measures in the country will be extended through to January 7, 2021, to limit the spread of Coronavirus.
This includes a night time curfew and a ban on travelling outside home prefectures.
According to the announcement, schools, restaurants, cafes, bars, nightclubs, taverns, courts and ski centres will resume operations as of 6am, Thursday, January 7, 2021.
What you need to know
Outside movement will continue to be allowed only for specific reasons and by sending an SMS to the five-digit mobile phone service 130 33. The night curfew from 9pm to 5am will also remain in place.
Travel to and around Greece
Also, until January 7, 2021, domestic travel will not be allowed and public gatherings will continue to be banned.
Those returning from countries abroad between Friday, December 18 and Thursday, January 7, 2021, will be required to:
Submit a PLF and a negative Covid 19 test result (PCR) performed up to 72 hours before arrival.
2. Take a rapid Covid-19 test at the airport, upon entry.
Whether you find yourself at a Greek fish taverna (Psarotaverna) with knowledgeable local friends or totally unaccompanied by accommodating translators/explainers of mysterious-sounding things on the menu, it helps to have a decent knowledge of what you’re eating.
As a rule, the best fish tavernas and restaurants overall are those that have only the freshest dishes available – the more pages on the menu, the more you can be certain that half the foods are frozen and microwaved as opposed to whisked out of the fisherman’s bucket and cooked. Usually fish taverns and other Greek restaurants divulge whether a fish on their menu is fresh or frozen by including an asterisk next to the name of the said fish, but it’s better to be gratified by fresh catch than have your senses dulled by something that’s edible but tastes blah. Here we offer you a guide to the most commonly found delights served up in fish taverns around the country.
Atherina What it is: A tiny fish (sand smelt in English) that’s dipped in batter and deep fried to a delicious crispy consistency.
How it’s eaten: With your fork or, for the Boho-beach-carefree ones among you, with your hand, and entire. Some people chop off the heads due to psychological reasons (especially with the thicker, larger types of atherina fish) but really, it makes no difference to the overall taste. Served with a sprinkling of salt and squeeze of lemon.
Kalamarakia Tiganita What it is: Calamari that is cut into rings and tentacles, dipped in batter and deep fried to a crisp. When cooked properly the calamari will be only very slightly chewy and not at all rubbery. It will have an almost creamy consistency when masticated that mixes perfectly with the crunch of its batter.
How it’s eaten: With a sprinkling of salt and lemon, using a fork and often very fast as this is one of the most popular fish tavern delights.
Kalamari Stin Schara What it is: Calamari cooked on the grill with a little olive oil and salt, usually half-sliced along its length. As with all calamari, the fish should not be too rubbery, although the grilled version is usually a little more al dente than the fried rendition.
How it’s eaten: With a squeeze of lemon.
Barbouni What it is: Small to medium-sized Red Mullet that’s passed through flour before being pan-fried. The skin becomes crispy and the flesh should be juicy and tender.
How it’s eaten: First cut off the head. Next, be cut it open by slicing it across the middle and opening into two fillets. Remove the spine and bones, sprinkle with salt and lemon and enjoy.
Htapodi What it is: Octopus, which is usually beaten to death on a rock upon being caught in order to soften its texture.
How it’s eaten: Most commonly the octopus tentacles are cooked on the grill and served with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and salt, or it can be marinated with lemon and vinegar and in more recent years has become trendy in a carpaccio rendition.
Ahinosalata What it is: Sea urchin eggs. The word ‘salata’ can be a little misleading as there is no lettuce (or anything else for that matter added). The bright orange insides of the urchin are usually scopped into a bowl, sometimes with a little drizzle of olive oil added.
How it’s eaten: With (hopefully good) bread and (optional) lemon. Note: this is one of thise love or hate tastes. Either you will find it slimy and disgusting or you will want to slug the whole thing down alone because it tastes of the sea like nothing else.
Bakaliaros
What it is: Cod that is cut into steaks or chunks, dipped in batter (of often flour mixed with either soda or beer foe extra fluffiness) and deep fried or pan fried.
How it’s eaten: Traditionally (and especially on March 25th, when Greeks celebrate Independence Day as well as the second day in the religious fasting tradition leading up to Easter (for those who follow the 40 day fast), called Evangelismos tis Theotokou, when they are allowed to break their fast) bakaliaros is accompanied by two very complimentary friends – skordalia (a puree with tons of garlic in it) and boiled beetroots. But it’s just as tasty with some lemon.
Garides Saganaki What it is: Shrimps slow-cooked with cheese, usually feta, and tomato sauce, with various seasonings and spices, and often in a clay pot.
How it’s eaten: It needs nothing added to it. Just scoop onto your fork and enjoy. If no one is looking, go ahead and dip your bread into the remnants and finish it off!
Gavros Marinatos What it is: Anchovies that are marinated in salt, vinegar and spices. The texture is tender and juicy and the flavour is pungent.
How it’s eaten: Ideally accompanied a few sips of ice cold ouzo and maybe a few forkfuls of grounding fava to balance out the sharp yet delicious taste.
Mydia Achnista
What it is: Steamed Mussels that are cooked either in wine a la moulles marinier or even with tomato and spices.
How it’s eaten: When you serve yourself, make sure to also scoop some of the sauce onto the mussels. Pluck the mussel out with your fork, dip into the sauce and enjoy.
It’s not over ‘til it’s over…. And next of course, comes the fish of the day…
A proper dinner at a fish tavern involves sharing several of the above-listed dishes as starters, and then moving on to the actual fish of the day. Usually restaurant owners will happily (read proudly) invite you into the kitchen area to see the catch of the day and convince you to order some, which will usually be cooked on the karvouna (coals) and served with an olive-oil and lemon sauce. Don’t worry, regardless how stuffed you may feel after all the starters, there is always space for a few delicate pieces of beautifully cooked super-fresh and tender fish, which Greeks like to call “frouto”. You got that right, fruit, as in dessert. This is often the most expensive part of the meal, by the way, as a good quality, freshly caught, large fish is worth its sea salt.
Leaving the corporate world behind, talented Mexican-American artist Patricia Garcia-Gomez booked a getaway to Naxos island to relax, unwind and get the creative juices flowing.
What was meant to be a four week stay turned into three months of work and play, as Greece gave Patricia the space to create an entire physical and sensory experience at a four level monastery. The beautiful result is Earth is a she, a multi-media installation composed of video, sound and environmental theatre.
Please tell us about your work in visual media, sound and sensory immersion?
Sound and sense are very direct, and they can affect your emotions immediately, without any thought or explanation. That’s because they hold stories, memories, the ancient, everything. My work is about connection to this. An invitation. I’m interested in using sound and sensory immersion to activate the imagination, encourage people to listen deeply to the world around them, and to extend the edges of place and time.
What have been some of your favourite projects to date?
Earth is a she, which I created in Greece, is still among my most favourite. I completely immersed myself in the soul of the land and the people I encountered. Creating it was a bit like an excavation-a constant digging up of emotions and sensations, and I met peoplewho are now close friends.I am also very excited about my newest project, Oaxaca. It is a series of intimate portraits and sensory impressions.
Where are you currently based?
I’m in East Marion, Long Island, about two hours outside of Manhattan, very close to the water. The move out of the city was, in fact, inspired by my time in Greece. I felt so good after my daily swims that I marked it on my life plan, “This is how I want to live. I want to be able to swim every day.”Where I live now backs up to the Long Island Sound, where I swim every day. It’s not Greece, but it is Greece. In essence.
When did you first visit Naxos?
I first came to Naxos in 2017, on a self-given sabbatical, after a decade of running an award-winning branding agency in New York City (and getting myself fairly exhausted). My goals were simple–swim every day, eat well, slow everything down, write, and create space for what would be next. It was not so much a vacation as it was immersing myself in a fully-engaged creative life.
Tell us about “Earth is a she.” How did it all come about?
Earth is a she is a site specific installation that I created for the Bazeos Tower, composed of video portraits, sound, and environmental theater. In the installation, video portraits are projected 8 feet high in a space that is invisibly-filled with the smells, sounds and textures of the land just beyond the space where you are sitting. When you enter the room, it may appear to be empty. Attention is drawn to sound, and then the visual begins to take presence.
The installation started to percolate in my mind on my first trip to Naxos. Not as a formed idea, but rather as a sensing. Of place. Of sounds. Of presence. The sound of the bells moving across the mountain tops enchanted me, as did the cicadas. I would drive around the island and pull over to record them.
One night, as the sun was starting to descend,I saw a shepherdess crossing a wide field with her sheep. She called them and appeared to have them in a bit of a spell. We waited for her on the far side of the field so we could say hello. She laughed with us at the spontaneous oddity of having people run up to her in the field. Have you ever had that feeling of having encountered something that will be very important, but with no information yet?This is the feeling I had when meeting Maria Makari, the shepherdess who would become the subject of the film.
I filled the exhibition room with plants and herbs from the fields Maria works in every day.The audio, created in collaboration with musician/composer Prassanna Vishwanathan, blends field recordings of Maria with vocals rendered by Prassanna. We collaborated across New York, India, and Greece until we landed on this version, which feels born of the land.
What was the vision of your project?
My vision was to honor Maria, a shepherdess, a mother, a woman who walks in deep connection to the land. She reminds us, earth is a she…. On opening night, Maria and I had the first private screening together. Never before have I felt so much responsibility for caring for someone’s story. We watched it seven times together, and she gave me the most gentle embrace afterwards.
Even though it was a very hot summer, people came to sit in the theater, and they lingered, listening in the sound meditation room. One day, someone who lives on the island walked up to me and said “you have captured the essence of the island, thank you.”
How much time did you spend with Maria?
I visited Maria in the fields almost every day. Sometimes I would stop and take a few photos, sometimes I would just wave hello and walk beside her. My goal was to get a sense of her, and also get to know the plants, smells, textures, sounds, of the land around her. The more time we spent together, the more fun and light things became. Idon’t speak Greek, so we communicated with eyes and body language. One day when I was trying to ask her about her goats she invited me to join her in milking them–at 5AM! It was hard work, and dirty work, but she handled the animals with so much gentleness. You can see it in the film.
A turning point came when I realised that I only had images of Maria “in the field.” But there was something much bigger about her that I wanted to capture. I invited her up into the Tower, in the room that would house her installation. It is here that we created the large portraits that became the center of the installation. It’s as if all the work we did together was leading to this moment. We didn’t speak, we were just fully present together.
During your time in Naxos you also created ‘Call of the Naxos Moon’ and ‘Prokopios,’ tell us about those?
Call of the Naxos Moon, a sound meditation room, is about sacred space and invisible forces. Drawing on the history of the Tower as a monastery,I wanted to evoke a sense of the ancient that is present there. The room is filled with artifacts collected around and about the Tower. The vocal meditation (an ancient meditation by which one can experience the absolute “unstruck sound,” which we understand as “silence.”) was recorded in the early mornings, the time of day that the air moving through the space is most perceptible. Participants were invited to come in and to do nothing, just listen. Sitting in the room, the voices’ vibrations are felt directly through the body.
I had so much fun with Prokopios, named after the beach on Naxos where it was filmed. Using footage that I shot during my first visit to Naxos in 2017, I created a series of one-minute video triptychs that show the intersection of people’s personal and individual visits to the sea. The sea is universal in that it is powerful for all of us, but how it is powerful is intensely individual. When all these scenes collide with each other, a new timing and cadence is revealed. Some are funny, some peaceful, some absurd. I love the ambiguity. They are mini meditations.
What was the highlight in Naxos?
If I had to pick just one highlight (other than working with Maria and the other artists), it would be immersing myself in its sounds. First, the cicadas. They are an ever-present soundtrack that moves with you no matter where you are on the island. Then, the roaming goat bells. Bells that sound like waterfalls, both near and far in the distance. It’s mesmerizing. The sound becomes a part of you.
Other favorites: daily swims, discovering secret beaches, meeting local artists, driving through the winding mountain villages, getting lost (almost daily), running into daily life (especially weddings!) and being invited to join.
Where did you experience your best swim and food in Naxos?
I swam every day at Prokopios beach because it provides a long stretch of calm water–and it’s lively. My favorite swim spots , though, are the ones that you have to work harder to get to: Psili Ammos for its remoteness and Hawaii for its wildness. Things aren’t always well-marked in Naxos Greece, which lends a sense of adventure.
My favorite places to eat: Axiotissa (so fresh and bountiful- the best post-swim lunch);
Taverna I Pigi (roasted rooster and beer up in the mountains of Potamia); Paradiso (feet in the sand on the edge of the sea), Kitron Cafe Cocktail Bar (for a beautiful coffee or cocktail),and; Mitos Arternative Bar in Chalki (wood-fire pizza, fantastic hosts who know everything about Naxos, ask for Petros).
What part of Greek island life do you connect with most?
There is something ancient and untamable about Greece that really speaks to me. I could sit for hours listening to the cicadas, or along the sea. I recently learned the Greek word “filoxenia”– the love of strangers and an eagerness to show hospitality. Everything I experienced shows this to be true. This is the heart of it.
Do you plan on travelling or working in Greece again and if so, is there another island or region you would like to see?
Yes! I’ll be back in summer2021,leading a retreat that’s about re-setting, connecting to nature and self, making space to be filled up with goodness. Want to join? The global pandemic has left us all in need of a bit of restoration. No other place is as life-affirming as Greece. I would like to go deeper and farther into Greece, and see the places less visited.
*Watch the official trailer to Earth is a she here-
The alluring attraction and wanderlust for discovering the world prompted me in 1971 to leave my native Corfu behind. Fourty nine years later, with a life’s journey across four countries outside Greece in two different continents, I have returned to my island of birth.
It was for a very special kind of research – and impressive discoveries – that involved both my work in wine and my hundreds of years’ old family history.
Wine was part of my upbringing as early as from the age of nine, when my mother handed me a tumbler with a small amount of wine and topped up with water as I was the eldest. Little did I know then that wine would become a major part of my adult life. When I set off on my travels as a young man, exploring and recording the fragmented Greek vineyard in the 1990’s, I knew nothing of Corfu’s wine. Of the 60 wineries featured in my Greek Wine Books I had included only one Corfu winery, that of Livadiotis from Halikouna. Over 25 years and 730,000 km later I became increasingly curious to discover what the status of wine on my island really was, as there is a wide difference in public perception and reality regarding this matter.
Meanwhile, Corfu magnetised me later in life for a different reason as well. What I was stunned to learn only a decade ago, after deciding to deep dive into my ancestral roots, was that my paternal family history connected to Corfu dates back to 1503. This was a time when Venice gave my stradioto ancestors passage and privileges from Nafplio to Corfu. Fascinatingly, the Archives on Corfu are incredibly well organised, something that is unique to the modern Greek state. A long-standing research had taken me to a point where a documentary was now within reach. The digitalised archives of my Notaro Publico ancestors 1686 -1830 make for riveting reading of the island’s social history. The documentary is not about my family per se but about the merchant classes and their often-scandalous lives. Their dealings, affairs and more.
This research simultaneously brought me to finally see first-hand what changes, if any, had occurred over time in the local wine scene. Timing could not have been better as there have been completely unknown developments. Two of my contacts on the island introduced me to exciting new ventures. Nikos Kotinas in Lefkimi led me to the most recent of vineyards and winery of Borovino; and chef Aristoteles Megoulas, to the local produce he has been supporting, Pontiglio in Lefkimi and Nicolouzo in Ano Korakiana. These three vineyards and the second generation of Livadiotis of Halikouna to be reviewed on my website Greek Wine World.
As I write these lines Gerald Durrell’s tongue in cheek comment on Lawrence runs through my head: ‘My brother is conducting an exhaustive study of the islands wine’. I have been doing the same but probably in a different way. This visit was my great chance to get fully up to speed with the impossibly verdant island’s wine bounty. For example, I discovered that new, 15-year-old vineyards are heralding a revival. Another great revelation regarded the true face of Cacotrigis, Corfu’s signature grape. Forget the farmer-produced, orange-coloured stinky brews; the new generation is semi-aromatic and textured. And yet another revelation: the new-to-me mysterious red grape called Skopelitis. It doesn’t, as you may presume, hails from the eponymous Sporades island, its vinous tasting profile bears no resemblance to anything else anywhere in Greece nor nearby Sicily or Southern Italy.
Perhaps the best part is yet to come. As I discuss my findings with my academic and technician friends new task lists are being created. There is so much more to come from custodians holding completely unknown to any of us grapes. That is another story to be told when DNA results have been completed. As for my ancestral DNA and all the stories to go with that, the roots run so deep and the fruits are so rich that all I can say is watch this space for a fascinating documentary.
One of the most popular local dishes from the island of Santorini is Domatokeftedes (tomato fritters), which features fresh tomatoes, shallots, basil and mint.
Tip: Make sure you use tomatoes that aren’t too ripe, as you need the flesh of the tomato to get the right consistency for your fritters.
Ingredients
10 x tomatoes, chopped
6 x shallots, chopped
2 x garlic cloves, grated
1/4 x cup mint, chopped
1/4 x cup basil, chopped
1 x tablespoon baking powder
3/4 x cup plain flour
olive oil for frying
salt & pepper to taste
Method
Place chopped tomatoes, shallots, garlic, basil and mint into a bowl and mix together with your hands.
Add baking powder, salt, pepper and flour and mix with a wooden spoon. If the mixture is too runny, add a few more tablespoons of flour.
Gather a small handful of the mixture and shape into small fritters. Repeat until all mixture has been made into round, flat balls.
Pour olive oil into a fry pan, so that it is covered about 4cm deep.
Place fritters one by one into hot oil and cook for about 4 minutes on each side or until they are golden brown and cooked through.
Place on a paper towel to absorb excess oil and then transfer to serving dish.
Described by international judges as a “standout project with a true sense of place”, Domes Zeen Chania was named Best Resort in Europe for 2020, at the AHEAD Awards for Hospitality, Experience, and Design.
The prestigious awards are entered and judged by leading hotel owners, developers, operators, architects, and designers from around the world; with the winners announced online two days ago.
Under the guidance of head designer Michael Schickinger (Lambs and Lions), interior stylist and designer Annabell Kutucu, and lead architect Konstantinos Karampatakis (k-studio); Domes was a collaborative project culminating in the launch of a luxurious boutique hotel that provides the perfect spot to unwind.
Set against an enchanting backdrop of the deep Mediterranean Sea, sandy stretches of beach, and an ancient Venetian port, Domes Zeen Chania is an ideal place to rest and reinvigorate. Here you can recuperate with yoga or an energizing massage, or take your time exploring the tropical sanctuary.
“Domes Zeen oozes warmth, charm, and personality,” announced AHEAD’s judges, adding “It has an earthy colour palette, natural textures, and neutral materials were used throughout to exude Bohemian luxury and ensure it blended effortlessly within its Cretan setting.”
Throughout the boutique property, there are a series of soulful spaces and sanctuaries that merge minimalist mid-century modernism with sustainable design in one seamless union. The 106 handcrafted rooms feel earthy and organic, like a home away from home, opening up onto your own private terrace.
Boasting large areas for indoor and outdoor living, Domes Zeen retains privacy and seclusion, whilst maximizing the spectacular verdant and sea views.
Domes also brings a duo of gourmet restaurants, a beachfront spa, and classic island experiences to the table, including cookery and ceramics classes, wine tastings, and coastal hikes. Children have just as much to look forward to, with the kids’ club offering everything from painting classes to sleepovers in a tepee.
From the moment you arrive, Astypalea will take your breath away. The simplicity of this authentic island, which shares aesthetic elements of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, is what makes this destination extra special!
Its magnificent Chora, the old port, eight picturesque windmills, an imposing Venetian castle built of dark stones; and stunning beaches with crystal clear waters are the main reasons to fall in love with this beautiful island.
What you need to know before you arrive…
Astypalea is a butterfly-shaped isle, located in the Dodecanese in the southeastern Aegean but looks a lot like a Cycladic island. Its position contributed to the fact that it was not included in the wave of rapid tourism developments that evolved on other islands in the 80s and 90s.
Getting there
You have two options- either by ferry or by plane. The journey by ferry takes around 11 hours from Piraeus, Athens. Blue Star Ferries run every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday from the port of Piraeus and Olympic Air flights run daily except Tuesdays, during summertime.
Where to stay- I would strongly recommend staying near Chora.
Getting around- Around Chora, all roads lead to the Castro.
If you just want to explore Chora, the castle, and its surroundings you won’t need a car. But if you’re planning to do some trekking, explore the villages of Livadi and Analipsi, the charming beach of Agios Konstantinos and other distant beaches you’ll definitely need transport. Astyapalea has a regular bus service which connects all the main points of the island. Bus services run between Livadi – Astypalea – Analipsi – New Port – Airport.
Best time to visit
If you are looking for a summer escape the hottest months are August, July, and also June. It’s also perfect in spring, as you can discover the paths through the flower-filled landscape. Some paths pass through traditional creameries producing local cheese.
Where to sleep
Kalderimi Hotel on the road from Chora to Livadi. Designed in traditional island style, there are a total of 11 individual houses, all of which have their own distinct appeal.
Chrysalis Boutique Hotel offers superb views towards the twin-hilled town of Astypalea.
Pylaia Boutique Hotel, situated over a hillside in Astypalea it has two pools and a spa as an extra bonus.
Where to eat
Agoni Grammi at Chora’s square, just opposite the mills for amazing seafood and homemade Makarounes (pasta).
Ageri, simple and tasty.
Aeolos at Pera Gialos for delicious pizza and pasta.
Almyra at Maltezana for fresh fish and lobster pasta.
Paradosiako Kafeneio, a very traditional and authentic place close to the Windmills.
Local delicacies
Homemade Makarounes- traditional pasta typically served with fresh cheese or a garlic sauce.
The island’s cheeses are produced by local shepherds from some 15,000-20,000 animals living in the countryside.
Where to drink
Castro, a bar on top of the charming Chora of Astypalea. It has various levels as the walls of the castle.
Mylos Bar, hidden in the narrow road to the castle.
Kouros, the only nightclub playing Greek music, if you want a surreal experience with dancing on tables.
Where to swim
Livadi, the closest beach to Chora. Half of the beach has sunbeds while the other half remains unorganised.
Maltezana. The settlement consists of several smaller beaches, like Mple Limanaki and Plakes.
Another beach close to Maltezana is Steno, one of the best beaches in Astypalea, separated into two organised beaches, the Mikro Steno (small) and the Megalo Steno (big), both with crystal clear waters and two beach bars.
Vatses, one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, and Tzanakia, another beautiful beach and the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalea. It also has a fantastic view of the castle of Astypalea.
Kaminakia. If you’d like to reach this beach you should calculate approximately 30 minutes of driving. A good part of the road has no asphalt. The beach also has some basic infrastructure and tamarisks that will provide you some shadow. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea, but it can also be crowded during the high season.
Agios Ioannis o Richtis is a hidden gem of Astypalea. You’ll have to walk around 30 minutes to reach this outstanding beach with a stunning landscape.
Discover history…
According to Greek mythology, Astypalea and Europe were the daughters of Finikos and Perimidis. The island of Astypalea was first inhabited in the 2nd millennium BC by the Caraes, who came from the ancient region of Caria in Anatolia (present-day Turkey). They were followed by the Minoans of Crete. Astypalea seems to have been a wealthy place during Classical times as it is evident from the high annual tribute they used to pay to Athens. There were many temples on the island at that time, another symbol of prosperity. Fruits and flowers practically covered the entire island, which is why the ancient Greeks used to call it the Table of the Gods. During the Hellenistic period (4th-1st century BC), Astypalea was an important naval base of Ptolemy of Egypt. During the Byzantine years, (4th – 13th century BC) the constant attacks from the pirates forced the inhabitants to abandon their houses at the coast and create new settlements inside the island with strong walls as protection. The castle of Saint John was also built at that time, parts of which you can still see.
Cultural events of the island
Every June, the Astypalea Summer Festival takes place on the island. On the 6thof August, the celebration of Sotiras takes place at the church of Sotiras Christos. On the 27thof July, is the feast day of Aghios Panteleimonas, and the celebration of Panagia Portaitissa takes place at the castle on the 15th of August. On the 8th of September, the traditional celebration in honor of the Virgin Mary takes place at the church of Panagia Poulariani.
Do as locals do…
Have a Greek coffee or a meze at the historic Kafeneio tou Moungou in Hora, watching elderly islanders catch up and play “tavli” (backgammon).
Every local housewife has her favorite secret spot (they’ll probably only share it on their deathbeds) for collecting thyme, sage, and saffron that grows on the island. Every November, the local women get together in a mini-ritual to pluck the saffron threads.
Insider tips…
Watch the full moon pop up from behind the castle- it’s an absolute must in Astypalea. To enjoy the moment to its fullest, reserve a table at Archipelago Café, and devour one of its nice desserts.
Also, the Cave of Negrou offers a beautiful view of the sea and of Vatses Beach, a 20- minute hike away.
To taste breadsticks made with local ingredients such as thyme, oregano, saffron, honey, and cheese, go to Iliana Bakery.
For great breakfast go to Meltemi Café which serves delicious pougia (small pies with fresh cheese, honey, and cinnamon).
For amazing desserts head to Glykia Astropalia, where you can find cheesecake made with hlori and Kolokytha.
Ideal time to spend here? You need 5 – 7 days to really enjoy the place.
Favourite part? The calm and extremely charming alleyways of Chora and the stunning landscape that includes the windmills, the Castle, and Chora.
What to avoid? Believing that maps and roads here are friends. There are no decent maps of Astypalea, not many street names to refer to and as a consequence, Google was not much help. But this has a good part. You can just get lost on the island and explore it by chance.
Top activities-Hiking. Ftera, located just twenty minutes away from Chora by car, is an ideal climbing location. Also, hiking to the highest spot of Astypalea is a unique experience. The chapel of Prophet Elias offers magnificent views of the capital of Astypalea.
Where to shop
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit “KATOA -The second life of things” in Chora -practically a second-hand shop- where you can find old items that the owner has transformed into something new and each one of them comes with a unique story.
At Tsakalos in Maltezana, you can buy honey, jams, liqueurs, body and face creams made with honeycomb, and other local products from Keranthos in Hora.
What to see
The Venetian Castle that stands on a hill above Chora. Its’ walls survive till today.
The eight traditional windmills, preserved until today- the most picturesque spot of Chora.
The Monastery of Saint John, nestled between two steep slopes. It offers a magnificent view of the islets Pontikoussa, Ofidousa, and Ktenia.
Drakos Cave (the Cave of the Dragon) with impressive stalactites and stalagmites of different colors.
The Archaeological Museum that hosts exhibits, such as stone tools, ceramic pottery and jewellery from the Prehistoric and Medieval times. You can also find photos from Negros and Drakos caves.
The Church of Panagia Portaitissa, considered among the most beautiful churches in the Dodecanese.
Also, the Church of Panagia Poulariani, accessed only by boat or on foot. It has a natural rock formation in the shape of the Virgin Mary embracing a child.
Take a day trip to…
Τake the little boat to the nearby uninhabited islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupi (or Kounoupes) with an unbeatable Aegean feel. There are several daily excursions that start from the port of Astypalea around 11 am and return in the late afternoon. They visit both islands and stay approximately two hours at each one. There are currently two options. The first choice includes lunch and drinks and costs 45 € while the other one doesn’t include any food or drink and costs 15 €. Keep in mind that when winds are too strong the excursions are cancelled.
Can’t leave until- You treat yourself to some hlori (a soft local cheese), anthotyro (dried hlori) and kopanisti (a spicy, creamy cheese). And certainly, buy other local products, like sage, oregano, thyme, and chamomile.
Greece is loved by many for its rich history, culture, design, cuisine, and more. After visiting Greece, many wish they could bottle up elements of the Greek lifestyle to take home with them.
If you have a love for the simple, laid-back and joyful Greek way of life, here are some easy ways of introducing a slice of Greece into your own home!
By Katerina Anastasiadis
Greek diet
There is a lot of research about the healthy Greek diet, which is rich in legumes, vegetables, olive oils, fish, herbs, nuts and yoghurt. Food is an extremely important part of Greek culture and for many is one of the reasons they love visiting Greece. From simple boiled vegetables drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and the famous Greek salad; to rich traditional recipes such as Gemista, Moussaka and Dolmades- there is so much variety to choose from.
Keep in mind that the Greek diet is more than just a list of foods. It’s about knowledge of gastronomy, skills, practices, and traditions related to the cultivation and preparation of food. Greeks take their food seriously and treat it as one of life’s everyday pleasures that should be enjoyed with family and friends.
Family, Friends & Filoxenia
Greek culture places a large emphasis on family value and unity and when we say family, we also mean extended family. For Greeks, friends become family and strangers are made to feel welcome too. Greeks are known for their Filoxenia (hospitality) and when visiting a Greek home (especially one with a Yiayia) it means you will be mothered, smothered and welcomed with open arms. Entertaining is one of the most important parts of Greek life and that means lots of good food, conversations and laughter.
@sophiaenjoythinking
Greek décor
Greece is also a cultural capital of the world for its beautiful architecture and design. One unique aspect of Greek interior styling is its minimalism and simplicity. You only need a few key pieces in a room to add a touch of the Aegean to any space. Whether it be traditional ceramics or pottery, all white details, or a chic boho island cushion and chair- there are plenty of ways to add a hint of Greek décor to your home.
Coffee
Greece has a rich tradition surrounding the consumption of coffee. Not only is traditional Greek coffee considered to be one of the healthiest in the world, thanks to its heart- healthy compounds, it is the ritual of drinking caffeine that makes it so special. This is a special time to catch up with friends and slowly sip on a cup as you chat about your day’s events.
Wine
@manousakiswinery
Greece may not be as well-known as other Mediterranean countries for its wine, but Greeks do love their glass or two- with many still making their own homemade varieties. Recent research revealed that Ikarians (one of the world’s 7 Blue Zones) drank a glass of wine each day. It’s quite common for locals on islands and in remote villages to have a small glass of wine with lunch and dinner.
Music
With a long history dating from the Antiquity, during which poetry, dancing, and music were inseparable- music has always played an important part in the Ancient and modern Greeks’ everyday life. Whether you love soul, jazz, rock, RnB, pop, country or even heavy metal- it’s therapeutic to put on your favourite sounds and sit back and relax with tunes that make you feel good. And as you know, Greeks don’t need an excuse to dance either- so even if you are home alone- turn up that music and get moving to the beat. We promise it will make you feel good!
Manousakis Winery has been producing its 100% organic wines under the brand name Nostos since 1997. The winery is situated in the village of Vatolakkos, just 15 minutes (drive) from the city of Chania.
This charming, traditional village setting is a perfect backdrop to try these award-winning Cretan wines and over the years Manousakis Winery has been holding tours and tastings for visitors from all over the world.
The philosophy of this boutique winery is to carefully cultivate the vines in order to absorb the scent-filled terroir so the flavours of the grapes combine with the herbs for an incomparable taste. Each bottle of Nostos Wines captures the character of this verdant island and the slopes of the Lefka Ori.
IN+SIGHTS GREECE recently spoke with Alexandra Manousakis, youngest daughter of owner and founder Ted, about their beautiful family winery.
Tell us about your family winery. How long has it been running and how did it all begin?
The winery started in 1993 when we first planted our organic vineyards with the international varieties of Roussanne, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. In 1997 we had our first vintage. The winery was started by my father, Ted. He loved wine and wanted to make world class wine in the village he loves. Since my dad is not a viticulturist nor an oenologist he hired a fantastic team of top people in the wine industry at that time and they advised him on which grapes to plant and how to cultivate.
Tell us about your wine and what makes it so special?
Our winery started as a passion project. Therefore we are truly interested in producing the best wine we can from the best grapes. We want to showcase the Cretan Terroir which is phenomenal and to show the world that fantastic wines can and are coming out of a small place like Vatolakkos. I have to say that I love wine and particularly our wines.
How would you describe your varieties- both reds and whites?
The varieties that we work with are international varieties that have now been living here in Crete for the last 30 years. We also work strongly with the local variety called Romeiko and produce a white from that, which is a go to summer white. We experiment with some other Cretan Varieties and have seen excellent results there. We believe in low intervention for our wines which means that we like to let our vines and grapes do their thing. We now produce 12 different wines and a total of 120,000 bottles approximately per year. That might sound like a lot but we are still one of the smaller wineries on the island.
Where are your wines stocked? Are they sold internationally?
Our wines are sold in 15 different countries and you can see where in the wine section of our website. Due to different laws in different countries we can only send directly to countries within the EU.
What is your role in the company and who else in your family works with you?
I run the winery with my husband, Afshin. My father is based in Washington DC and is still involved with the winery. We are all quite involved with the production of our wines and love what we do.
Tell us about the rest of the team at Manousakis?
Since 1998, our oenologist Kostis Galanis has been head winemaker. Kostis is an amazing person as well as winemaker and together with his son, Giannis Galanis they make the wine production team. Giannis is our viticulturist and assistant winemaker. We have a wonderful team in our office as well and our tasting terrace. We firmly believe that you are only as good as your team is and we feel very happy to be working with the individuals that we do.
Describe your beautiful vineyard and the wine tours and tastings?
Our vineyards are on quite rough terrain. We have a few different vineyards in a number of locations that range from 350m above sea level to 650m above sea level. Tours of our vineyards are arranged through Uncharted Escapes, a tour agency with land rovers to be able to get around the mountains. At the winery we have our tasting terrace and
restaurant which serves traditional Cretan delicacies and where you can try all of our wines. Normally, we do tours of our winery but due to the pandemic, we did not hold tours this past summer. The tasting terrace is quite beautiful and is located in our old winery in an olive and orange tree grove. It’s quite peaceful and relaxing.
What cultural events take place at the winery?
We normally host a series of events at the winery. We’ve done art exhibitions and every weekend we have live music on our terrace. People often rent the winery for private events such as small weddings, baptisms or parties.
How has harvesting for 2020 been and are there any new wines you will be releasing for 2021?
The 2020 harvest was quite good. So far we are very pleased with the results and we are looking forward to the wines that will come of it. We are releasing a new wine in 2021! It’s a collaboration with another winery and it’s very exciting. I won’t say more yet but will make an announcement when it is ready.
What are your current opening hours are and are you open all year round?
The winery is closing the tasting terrace from November 1st and then operating by appointment only until March 15th, 2021. Typically we are open daily during the summer months but of course we don’t yet know what the 2021 season looks like.
Yiorgos Kordakis is one of Greece’s leading photographers who has exhibited his stunning work across the world- including solo shows in Athens, Paris, London and Los Angeles.
The self-taught photographer has also received many prestigious awards and accolades throughout the years for his sharp, crisp and creative images that have found themselves in galleries, institutions and homes around the globe.
Tell us about your work as a photographer. When did it all begin?
I am a self-taught photographer. Photography was not in my life plans. It was all a coincidence. By pure luck I was involved in the magazine world back in the day. We are talking very late 90s, pre digital era- quite different from today’s world.
How would you describe your photographic style and what subjects do you most love capturing?
Hard to describe it in words. One thing I feel reflects my style, is the fact that I am not interested in being “present”, I do like to keep a distance from whatever it is that I am taking a picture of. I love architecture – the kind I am able to see as a form of sculpture. I also love taking pictures of women, ideally within an architectural context.
What are a few sources of inspiration for your work?
Ancient Greece, and the Cyclades are my constant sources of inspiration. I can also be inspired by the portrait of an exotic plant, a beautiful hand, or the beauty of my partner in life. I find inspiration in simple, everyday things.
You have also spent a lot of time in New York. Can you please tell us about your time working in the US?
The US and NYC in particular had been a dream of mine for many years. I feel blessed for being able to spend the time I did there. It was an exceptionally inspirational period for me. It was also a very fun time. I invested a lot of time driving all across the country, as I wanted to explore the real America which led me to working on my “10.000 American Movies” project- my own tribute to the “Americana” subject. I feel very lucky for having the opportunity of experiencing in full the typical American Roundtrip dream to the extent that I did.
What do you enjoy most about your work?
The fact that I get to meet a lot of people, most times beautiful people (inside and outside) is interesting. I also get to visit beautiful places. I can’t imagine a better “office”.
You mentioned you have a passion for architectural photography. Is this something you are focusing on at the moment?
Yes, I can’t imagine not being interested in architecture. I am sure I must have been an architect in a previous life.
You have received many international awards throughout the years, is there anything you are most proud of to date?
I don’t pay much attention to the awards. What makes me proud is when a collector decides to purchase one of my works or a person shares kind words about my work. It gives me enormous pleasure and makes it all worthwhile.
Your amazing photography has been showcased throughout many exhibitions. Are there any projects you are currently working on that will be seen in the near future?
I am working on a few projects at the moment but I am not sure when I will be ready to show some of that work – we live in weird times. If all goes well I should be showing in Basel and Venice next year, two shows that have been postponed this year due to Covid. One is a Solo and a Retrospective show , the other is a Group one, in which I will showcase some new work.
You travel around Greece quite often for work. Can you tell us a few of your favourite destinations for Spring? Summer? Autumn and Winter?
Peloponnese and Olympia in particular is beautiful in the spring. One has to see the Archaeological Site of Olympia when the almond trees are blooming. For the summer my favourite places are Koufonisia and Patmos. Mykonos is magical in Autumn and for the winter Pilio is the place to be.
What was the highlight of your summer travels in Greece for 2020?
This was the first time that I brought my baby daughter with me on a business trip.
Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first discovery of Anafi.
Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. As a child, the Londoner with Caribbean blood went to Anafi as one of his first Cycladic island experiences, described here. This personal story about Anafi is the second in a narrative series created by him especially for In+Sights Greece that will run over the next few weeks.
Discovering the Beauty of Anafi
Years had passed and still I stared over curling crests towards Anafi; Mount Kalamos, its towering monolith in white, reflecting light to where I stood in Lucas bay, that day, on Ios island. “Enough”, I thought, it’s time to go. “It’s been so long that I’ve said, no, but not this time, no, not this time.”
Heading back to Manganari on ancient paths as guide, I packed my inflatable, other belongings and sighed. The forceful waves of deepest blue were extra rough beyond Santorini, and though the ship plunged and soared – no way to get bored – I enjoyed myself serenely.
I slept in the port in a room by the water overlooking my boat now inflated and ready to sail. Next morning at seven, I awoke to a view as sweet as any I’d seen. “Like heaven unveiled”, I decided, and with petrol and cheese pie waved goodbye to the lady who owned the hotel.
Pachia was first then it was Makra, two islands not near but neither that far away. From south to north I travelled the sea to where the Monastery of Kalamiotissa sits atop the famous rock and looks out as far as the eye can perceive.
Two anchors down from bouncing around, I entered and dived and felt more alive, but had to resurface for air. Above my head, birds galore were squawking to the extreme, so I left to explore elsewhere, somewhere I’d still never been.
First, there was Hora with its personal aura of complex historical charm. I crisscrossed its streets to where everyone meets high-up in the centre of town and from there I could see as far as a tree near a rock shaped much like a crown.
Next day, the spray from the sea was all over me as I navigated the island entirely, and happy I was to write it all down in my personal leather-bound diary.
another revelation: the new-to-me mysterious red grape called Skopelitis. It doesn’t, as you may presume, hails from the eponymous Sporades island, its vinous tasting profile bears no resemblance to anything else anywhere in Greece nor nearby Sicily or Southern Italy.
