I suggest you take a few days out of your trip to Greece and visit Thessaloniki, the second-largest city in the country that will most certainly impress you with its beauty and distinct identity!
By Maria Athanasopoulou
Also called the co-capital, this beautiful destination is bathed by the Thermaikos Bay. It has a long and interesting history, which is evident through its rich monuments.
Thessaloniki’s geographical position has made it a place many nationalities have called home and even though it has a multicultural soul, Thessaloniki has maintained a strong Greek identity. It’s known as the Greeks’ favourite city and considered to be a place of love, fun, and tasty food!
Some well known spots include the White Tower (a landmark), the Arch of Galerius, the Castle Wall Remains, the Rotonda, the Roman Forum, many Byzantine churches, and other holy sites.
One of the most beautiful corners is Aristotelous Square, which is where locals and visitors enjoy taking a stroll. The city is embraced by the Gulf of Thermaikos and the harbor serves as the gateway to maritime transport- one of the most stunning corners in town.
It would be an unforgivable mistake not to mention the local cuisine. Greek and foreign visitors agree that Thessaloniki is the queen of Greek gastronomy- with magnificent local dishes and delicacies. The food options offered here are endless and perfect for all budgets. The town is flooded with good restaurants and all you need to do is walk around and discover eatery after eatery- you will be spoilt for choice!
Those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed by local desserts; especially the famous Bougatsa, which you will find in every bakery. All this great variety of local cuisine has given Thessaloniki the title “Gourmand city of Greece,” which locals are proud to carry and share with every single visitor.
Maria Athanasopoulou is the founder of the tourism marketing company Respond On-Demand, co-founder of the non-profit company Top Tourism, Chairwoman of the World Food Travel Association, Ambassador in Greece of Evintra and Ambassador in Greece and Cyprus of World Gourmet Society. She likes exploring new places and cultures and loves discovering unexplored tourism destinations. During her trips, she does her best to find out and present the most interesting aspects of the destination she has just visited.
What? Samos… Where? Northern Aegean… When? Early spring to late autumn…Why?
The history
image @samosisland
With a history going back to the Neolithic era, Samos is rich in a varied and impressive archaeological beauty that can raise the pulse of even the most bored, tag-along visitor. Firstly, it is the homeplace of Pythagoras, real-life God of Mathematics and Music (and creator of the Monochord sound healing instrument). Then there’s the geometrical architectural wonder known as the Efpalinios aqueduct tunnel, built in the 6thCentury BC. And the only second one of its kind in world history that was excavated from both ends. Oh, and let’s not forget the Sanctuary to Goddess Hera, the Heraion, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its magnificent ruins and giant sole-standing column.
The wine
Samos’ viticulture roots back to antiquity, although it was fully resuscitated in the 19th century. The island has a United Winemaking Agricultural Cooperative with two winemaking facilities, one in Karlovassi, and the other in Malagari, where you can also visit the Museum of Samos Wine, which arranges tours and even wine tastings. The island is famous for Moschato grape wine, so seek it out wherever you dine. Whatever you do, don’t miss out on Samos’ well-known Vin Doux (sweet wine), traditionally served with ice and a slice of lemon like a refreshing liqueur.
Hiking in beautiful nature
If you enjoy discovering places by walking, buy the Samos Hiking Guide by Stavros Psimmenos, which presents 32 of the island’s best routes. The author, who has spent decades exploring the island’s pathways, says “hundreds of kilometres of forest trails and cobbled paths crossing through a beautiful countryside link many of the most interesting places of the island: traditional villages and monasteries, mountain tops and impressive ridges, remote beaches and ancient ruins. Lush landscapes and amazing ocean views alternate for a most rewarding experience.”
The charming villages
Apart from the busiest villages of Pythagoreio, Vathy, and Votsalakia, each with its own charm, it’s worth also driving to Samos’ pretty villages of Mt Kerki, such as Kallithea, Lekka, Nikoloudes, and Kallithea, or on Mt Karvouni, such as Pandrosos, Mesogeia, Manolates and Vourliotes, and those of. At the eastern foothills of Mt Karvouni is Mitiliniaios village, where you can enjoy a wonderful open-air cinema (Cine Rex) experience straight out of the ‘60s!
The beautiful beaches
West of Kokkari village is the lovely pebble beach of Tsamadou, known for its clear waters and chilled vibe. On its eastern end, beneath the cliff-rocks is the island’s only remaining official nudist spot. Nearby is Limanakia, a smaller and during high season more crowded pebble beach that’s equally pretty. If you prefer sand, there are several options; head to Psilli Ammos which faces Turkey’s Dilek peninsula, or scenic Livadaki. If you want to combine a good hike with a reviving swim, start from the village of Potami and take the 5km path to Megalo and Mikoro Seitani (also reachable by boat from Karlovassi). For a beach tightly embraced by lush greenery walk or take the boat to Mikri and Megali Lakka beaches on the east of the island.
Ambelos Village
Pythagoreio
How? By ferry either from Rafina port to Karlovassi or from Piraeus port to Vathy (around 10-12 hour journeys). Or you can fly to the island from Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos in 55 minutes.
P.S. When in Samos…Visit the Museum of Pythagoreio, where you’ll see magnificent displays of ceramics from the 9th Century BC until the Golden Age. If you’re more spiritually inclined visit the Monastery of Panagia Spilianis, a truly mystical experience.
We love spending endless hours walking along the elegant streets of Kolonaki, a fashionable neighbourhood that has no shortage of high-end boutiques, stylish concept stores, cool cafes, trendy bars, and classy restaurants. So we’ve put together an in-depth guide revealing our favourite places to shop around here- designed to help you discover this ultra-chic district.
Part One | Concept Stores
SOPHIA Enjoy Thinking Live is an art and design lovers’ heaven where you can source stunning and unique handmade home decor, lifestyle, and fashion items, stationery, as well as organic beauty products. Here you can also take part in curated events and workshops with talented local artists and designers.
A: Pindarou 15, Athina
A: Solonos 36, Athina
Graffito
Philos Athens is a multifunctional space that brings together stunning designs and homeware items. It serves as a restaurant, cafe, event space, retail, and design studio. The beautiful shop is set up in a historical Athenian residence, offering a unique glimpse into Ancient Greek history and architecture. The store is currently closed due to COVID 19 but will be opening its doors again shortly.
A: Solonos 32, Athina
Philos Athens
DTalesis a revolutionary way to buy fashion. The pioneering store brings together designer wear from Paris, New York, Australia, and Europe, allowing customers to shop an unparalleled range of labels and pieces as well as beauty products, perfumes, accessories, deco-art treasures, and statement jewellery.
A: 6, Xanthou Street
i-D CONCEPT STORES is a curated space showcasing Greek fine jewellery designers, colourful, eclectic apparel, unique objects, and upcoming brands. This store is designed to allow visitors to feel and sense the merchandise and you will find a range of labels you won’t find elsewhere.
September is when holidays are ending and our psyche subtly but surely begins to shift from summer flimsiness to autumnal focus.
Perhaps this year even more, with the threat of more lockdowns looming over us, we want to make the most of the sunshine, outdoors and chances to explore. In Athens, September is usually a kind and mellow month, when the city comes back to life and (always somewhat chaotic) order. It’s the time
…when the sun is still hot but not scorching and swimming is still perfectly pleasant.
Throughout the week, the loveliest and most central – not to mention the largest in the capital – pool to visit is the one at Hilton Athens. It might not be cheap, but the sheer size of the pool and lovely greenery surrounding it, quality of its water, Coronavirus-cautious cleanliness, excellent service, and satisfying Oasis poolside restaurant menu will keep you relaxed and carefree for hours on end. On the ground floor of one of the city’s most architecturally fascinating hotels, designed in the 1960s, the pool here attracts mainly low-key glamourous types, families, and singletons who just want to chill in style. Another brilliant handful of great swimming options awaits you at Piraeus port, just 20 minutes’ train ride on the green line from the centre of town. Hop on a ferry or flying dolphin and within an hour you can land at lovely Argosaronic islands like Aegina, Angistri, Poros, Hydra and Spetses to spend the day at lovely beaches, eating fresh fish and sipping a sunset cocktail before returning to urbanity.
…when kefi-fuelled night owls reunite after a summer apart and make the most of being outdoors while it’s still warm.
Head to the bars where you can be part of the crowd pouring onto the pavement, courtyard or rooftop and watch the world go buzzily by, like Ipittou on Ipittou Square in Syntagma, Baba Au Rum in Monastiraki, Blue Parrot in Metaxourgeio, Floral or Warehouse in Exarcheia, Latraac Cafe & Skate Bowl in Kerameikos, Bios in Gazi, Couleur Locale or
Taf The Art Foundation in Monastiraki, Drupes & Drips in Koukaki, Briki in Mavili Square, and Six Dogs or Atlandikos in Psyrri. Or take the quiet path and stroll at sunset time or under the stars in magical places like Philopoappou or Pnyx hills, Lycabettus, the Zappeion gardens, Anafiotika, and Plaka’s backstreets, the upper fringes of Kolonaki and the village-like part of Mets.
…when we start to look ahead at how we will prepare our home and wardrobe for winter with a touch of Greece.
Whether you’re in Athens during September as a visitor or resident, it’s an exciting time to go window-shopping and start dreaming of how you’ll add classic or ultra-contemporary Greek touches to make your home and wardrobe both cozily comfortable and pleasurably stylish. Maybe you want a knitted lambswool fisherman-style pullover or elaborately-embroidered cushion covers that you can find in some of the finer tourist shops of Plaka like Loom. Or vintage stores with an international selection, including Greek designer specials, found around Kolonaki, Monastiraki, and Exarcheia. It may be classical-style jewellery or objects d’art inspired by Greek culture and sold either as a direct replica or with an extreme modern twist and found at specialty shops in the Cycladic Art, Benaki, Benaki Pireos Annexe or Lalaounis Museums or at Greek concept stores like SOPHIA, Forget Me Not or Paraphenelia.
Panagia Tsambika is very dear to my heart. After two years of unsuccessfully trying to fall pregnant, I was told by my Godmother to visit a sacred monastery on the island of Rhodes, which is known to help couples conceive.
On a hot 38 degrees day in August of 2011, my husband and I walked up 300 steps to the small monastery, where we said our prayers. As I walked away, I promised myself to keep the faith, trust in Panagia (Virgin Mary), and left it in the hands of God. The second time we visited this holy site was in July of 2013 when we came back to Rhodes to baptise our beautiful little miracle.
Location
The trip to Tsampika Monastery requires a turn off the main road, which is just a bit before Tsambika Beach. This leads you halfway up a hill where you can park your car (there is a small shop here) and walk up the remaining part. From there you’ll find 300 wide steps (around 500 metres in total) so if you visit during summer, we suggest getting there early or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat. Also, make sure you wear comfortable shoes and carry a bottle of water with you to keep hydrated.
When you reach the top, you will discover the tiny Byzantine Monastery dedicated to Panagia Tsambika. It’s perched at an altitude of 240 metres and offers some truly spectacular views of the coast.
The Miracle of the Holy Icon
Centuries ago the icon of Panagia Tsambika was located at the Holy Monastery of Panagia Kykkos in Cyprus. Miraculously, the icon would leave Cyprus and arrive at the mountain Zambiki of the Archangel in Rhodes. On the opposite side, a humble shepherd saw a light shining, so he climbed the mountain and went to see what was there. He was amazed this light came from the icon of Panagia. It was from this point that the icon received its name ‘tsamba’ which in local dialect means ‘spark.’ The locals brought the icon back to the village, but it would leave and return to the spot it was found. After three repeated attempts, they figured it was the will of Panagia to have a church built at this exact spot.
Praying to Panagia Tsambika for Fertility
One of the oldest miracles associated with Panagia Tsambika is tied to a Turkish Pasha whose wife was unable to fall pregnant. Learning of Panagia Tsambika, his wife prayed to her and ate the wick, which burned the fire of the vigil lamp before the holy icon. Soon thereafter she fell pregnant. The Pasha did not believe it and assumed the baby was from another man. When the baby was born, it held within its hand the wick the mother had swallowed. As a thank you, the Pasha gave all his property to the Monastery.
Panagia Tsambika is now visited each year by thousands and thousands of pilgrims from around the world. Most are couples (both Greek and non-Greek) who have struggled to conceive and others praying for family and friends.
The Monastery Up Top
It’s not known when the old monastery was founded, but a monk helped reconstruct the site in 1770.
After walking through a small gate, you are able to light a candle before entering an open space featuring a large icon of Panagia Tsambika holding Baby Jesus. The icon is surrounded by small dolls and photos of children- all in honour of those in need of healing. Here you will also find a book where you are able to write prayers and names of family members and friends who you wish to receive a blessing from Panagia Tsambika. Towards the back, there is also a small room adorned with more icons and privacy to pray.
The New Church
A bit further out, on the road connecting Archangelos village to Rhodes Town, you will discover a new monastery dedicated to Panagia Tsambika- this also deserves a visit. Featuring many 19th-century religious artifacts, the actual miraculous icon is also kept here for security reasons. It’s also home to a museum and bookstore for those wanting to purchase icons and other ecclesiastical items. Here you can ask for a blessed ribbon and wick that’s given to couples who are trying to conceive.
The Holy Monastery of Panagia Tsambika celebrates its Feast Day on September 8. This is a special day when thousands of pilgrims from Greece and around the world gather to honour the Nativity of the Theotokos (Virgin Mary).
*For more information you can call the Monastery on: 22440 22340
When it comes to types of eating establishments, the French are known for their bistros, Italians for trattorias, the Spanish for tapas bars, the British for their pubs, and the Greeks head out with family and friends to a great local taverna, which can be found in every city, village, and island around Greece.
Not to be confused with a tavern, a taverna is a small, authentic Greek restaurant, characterised by rustic décor, relaxed atmosphere, and a limited, seasonal menu that is reasonably priced.
It is referred to as the traditional public eating house of Greek cuisine and is known to be an integral part of Greek culture. The styling is simple (checkered tablecloths, rustic tables and chairs) and they are owned and run by local families.
Greek tavernas generally have a limited amount of food on the menu and serve up what the chef has cooked fresh on the day. Here you can expect to find Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Pastitsio, Dolmades, and Gemista. Most places also include a range of grilled meat, fish and seafood, some sides, and of course a variety of dips, salads, as well as homemade sweets.
As for vegetarians and vegans, you will be delighted with the range on offer, which includes Xorta (wild greens), Padzaria (beetroot), Kolokithia (zucchinis) Gigandes (broad beans), and other seasonal vegetables. Keep in mind the local taverna is also the best place to taste local dishes and delicacies from each region.
You will also find that many tavernas located by the sea specialise in seafood and are called Psarotavernas, or Fish Tavernas. Others on the mainland may offer more meat and there is also the Hasapotaverna (the butcher’s taverna) which specialises in meat only.
This is where you will get to meet and mingle with the locals, so it really is worth a try!
Mykonos is a playground for the rich and famous. From luxurious yachts to inevitable star-spotting, this is the Greek isle to see and be seen. Whatever your style and taste, our ultimate guide to Mykonos reveals the best places where you can eat, swim and play!
Having visited for the first time in my early 20s, I was captured by the island’s 24-hour party vibe. Stunning beaches, international DJs, late-night outings, great food, sunrises. I just felt alive. Having visited many more times since then, I can say it has now become a super cosmopolitan island, even more luxurious and in line with renowned European party locations such as St Tropez and Ibiza. There are always new places popping up, so here’s my current must-see and do list when visiting this ultra-chic Cycladic isle.
Getting there
From Athens, it’s a 35-minute flight. The quick ferry (Rafina to Mykonos) takes 2.5 hours and roughly 5 hours with the slow ferry.
Where to stay
The main town has many hotels to suit a range of budgets- staying here allows you to walk around the centre day and night. Agios Ioannis/ Ornos is also a great spot as it’s close to town- only a 2-minute drive but not as crowded. Platis Gialos is a gorgeous spot and close proximity to the beach clubs. Ftelia Beach is on the other side of the island and allows for more privacy and a chilled vibe.
Getting around
If you are staying in town it’s completely walkable. Buses take you to all the main beaches and depart regularly. Of course, hiring a car allows you to really discover the island and you can drive to remote beaches that aren’t so crowded. There is valet and free parking available all over the island. A Vespa is another great way to zip your way around the tight and winding Mykonian roads.
To sleep
Located in Ornos, Cactus is a charming boutique hotel that is perfect for singles and families, or you can try Hippie Chic in Agios Ioannis which is another mid-range priced hotel that’s central and stylish. If you would like to stay close to the shops and nightlife Harmony is set on the Old Port and offers complete sea views. If money isn’t an issue check out Bill & Coo, Rocabella, Branco, and Cavo Tagoo, which offer a super luxurious stay.
Cactus HotelBrancoHarmony HotelCavo TagooBill & Coo SuitesHippie Chic Hotel
To eat
Starting off casual, grab yourself a gelato from Bon Bon Fait Maison or a souvlaki from Sakis Grill House. For some great dining experiences try Kikis Tavern at Agios Sostis Beach but get there early, as there is always a wait. For amazing Asian food try Ling Ling. Super fresh seafood is served at Hippie Fish and at Spilia you will enjoy oysters shucked right in front of you. For fresh, handmade pasta and pizza head to Fresca Barkia Pasta. If you are after a range of Mediterranean dishes, Kastros in Little Venice is great. And for one of the best meals in town (that won’t blow the budget), try M-eating– don’t leave until you taste the homemade Myconian Honey Pie. For amazing outdoor dining try Bakalo- they serve traditional tavern-style dishes, Mr Pug restaurant for great Asian, La Maison De Katrin has a fusion of traditional Greek and French elements, and at I Frati you will have a delightful Italian culinary experience, located just a bit out of town.
La Maison De KatrinKikis TavernaKastrosKastrosI FratiPasta Barkia FrescaHippie FishBon Bon Fait Maison
To drink
This list is truly endless but I love Semeli Bar right on the water in Little Venice and Cosi is also a great place for a casual drink. Remezzo, established in 1967 is world-renowned for its parties that go until sunrise (incredible views). Astra in the heart of town is always buzzing, while Bonbonierrie is perfect for people watching, star-spotting, and some shisha. Queens of Mykonos is cozy, fun, and the crowd spills out onto the streets. Baos Bar is ideal for afternoon drinks on the water- followed by a late-night dance. For an exclusive Myconian nightclub experience head to Moni, and for Greek music make your way to Rhapsody and 4711, where the party kicks off after 2 am!
RhapsodyMoniBonbonierrieRemezzo
To swim
Try to get to all of these beaches (in no particular order)- Ornos, Panormos, Ftelia, Agia Anna, and Kalatafi. I also recommend a boat ride around the island, where you can visit secluded beaches.
Beach bars
If you want to rub shoulders with global celebrities and socialites just head straight for Nammos, Mykonos’ famous spot to swim and play (just make sure there’s plenty of money on your credit card.) For a more artistic and holistic experience, Scorpios is an all-day bar/restaurant that offers a real Myconian beach feel. At Panormos beach, you will discover Principote where you can also wine, dine, and dance the afternoon away. For a more chilled vibe head to Alemagou at Ftelia Beach where you can enjoy great food, cocktails, and music in a bohemian setting. And for families who are after some sports activities, Ornos is a great place for people of all ages.
ScorpiosPrincipoteAlemagouNammos Beach
Where to shop
Mostly in town, as many international designers including LV and Balenciaga have set up shop here. At Nammos Village you will find Dior, Burberry, Oscar de la Renta, Christian Louboutin, and Luisa boutique. Another stylish store that stocks international and local designers is Bazaar at Scorpios. Bollicine is a great concept store with exclusive brands and a rooftop bar, so you can enjoy a cocktail while you shop. Chora Mykonos has amazing Cycladic home décor and Yasemi features stunning sandals. While Soho Soho boutique is home to numerous leading European and International fashion brands.
BollicineSoho Soho BoutiqueBazaar at Scorpios
Galleries
Minima Gallery showcases a range of contemporary artworks by both upcoming Greek and foreign artists. At Skoufa Gallery you can view historically significant contemporary art of the 1930s. For modern art head to Rarity Gallery and for a gallery/auction house that promotes local artists definitely check out Kapopoulos Fine Arts.
Skoufa GalleryRarity GalleryKapopoulos Fine Arts
Spiritual sites
Mykonos has over 800 churches on the island, I highly suggest you see a few such as Panagia Paraportiani, Panagia Tourliani, Agios Giorgos, and the Virgin of Saint Rosary which is the only Catholic church on the island.
History
You must get close to the iconic Kato Mili Windmills, Armenistis Lighthouse, and also head to Ano Mera the second largest village on the island where you can visit the 13th-century Gyzi Castle.
Do as locals do…
Go to isolated beaches such as Agios Sotis and Fokas beach, head to a Panigiri (festival) by the beach, have a drink at Bakoyias near the Old Port, and catch an outdoor film under the stars at Cine Manto.
Ftelia Beach
Take a day trip to…
The ancient island of Delos, where Apollo was born, or take a ferry across to Tinos and visit Panagia Evangelistria, where the Virgin Mary appeared.
Can’t leave until…
You find Peter the famous Pelican, have a dance at Jackie O and watch the sunset at 180 Degrees Sunset Bar.
Santorini is one of the world’s most popular islands- known for its crisp white cliffside homes, romantic walkways, mesmerising sunsets and the world’s only inhabited Caldera.
Over the last few years (pre-COVID) Santorini played host to two million visitors and although this popular Cycladic island is filled with tourists, you can actually avoid the massive crowds and enjoy a more authentic experience when guided by a local.
IN+SIGHTS GREECE spoke with hotel owner George Sigalas, who was born and raised in Santorini, and along with his siblings, George warmly welcomes thousands of guests each year to Above Blue Suites and Amber Light Villas.
Here he shares tips about his beloved island and also takes us through his beautiful hotels, which were built by his grandfather.
What do you love most about your island home?
I really love a lot of things about our island- the fresh air, the sea, our enchanting Caldera but mainly the people- my family and friends.
What makes your hotels stand out?
There are many hotels with similar facilities but what makes ours unique is the personal touch and the love we have for our guests. Above Blue Suites consists of ten suites and one villa- offering a unique combination of privacy, luxury, unique interior design, and breathtaking views of the endless blue sea and the famous sunset. Amber Light Villas is curved in the mountain and provides comfortable villas opening up to private terraces and balconies with stunning views out to the Aegean Sea. We want everyone to have a unique experience that will create lasting memories. We do it with love, passion, and a smile because that’s how we feel.
Above Blue Suites
Above Blue Suites
Amber Light Villas
Amber Light Villas
What changes have you made to your hotels since you took over from your grandfather?
We have definitely given a lot of emphasis on the upgrade of our facilities and services, including the heating of the pool. We also expanded our menu to include gluten-free and vegan dishes. Of course, we try to improve day by day.
Where are your favourite places to eat out?
There are many good spots but I would recommend Kira Katina in Ammoudi for seafood, Agogi in Imerovigli for traditional delicacies, and also Metaxi Mas in Pyrgos, for the famous Rakomelo. For brunch head to TERA NERA in Perivolos as well Galini restaurant. The places for ice cream- Chill Box in Fira and Lolita’s Gelato in Oia.
Kira Katina Ammoudi, Galini Restaurant, Metaxi Mas
Must-try local delicacies or dishes?
Santorini Fava, Tomatokeftedes, Santorini salad, and Fried White Eggplant. Also don’t leave the island without drinking a glass of Ouzo, while enjoying local seafood by the sea.
For a drink?
In Fira, you will find the famous Enigma and Mamounia bars, where you can enjoy a drink and music, as well as PK and Tango Bar.
PK
Tango Bar
Best places to swim?
The best beaches in Santorini are located in the southern part of the island and are none other than Perissa and Perivolos, which features black sand due to the volcanic eruption- definitely a unique experience.
Archeological must-see sites?
Akrotiri is definitely worth a visit. The settlement was one of the most important urban centres and ports of the Aegean during the Middle and Late Bronze Age. Also, for hiking lovers, I would unreservedly recommend a visit to Ancient Thira. It is an ancient city located at the top of Mesa Vouno, the city was founded in the 8th century BC. Access to the city is on foot, with stairs to the mountain slope.
image ale_violen
image eacatalano
Perivolas Beach and Perissa Beach
What are some of the most authentic experiences you can have on the island?
Start with a visit to Kastelli village in Pyrgos and admire its wonderful view. Then head to the traditional village of Megalochori and try a Greek coffee from a traditional coffee maker. The architecture of the village in combination with the Greek aromas will make you sense the true heartbeat of the island. Akrotiri is also a beautiful village worth visiting. Entering the archeological site you will feel the aura of the settlement and its inhabitants who were so suddenly lost by the eruption of the volcano. There are many traditional taverns such as Delfinia that serve delicious Tomatokeftedes and other Greek delicacies.
To capture the spectacular sunset?
To enjoy the famous sunset you have to head to Imergovigli as it’s the highest point of the Caldera and the view here is magical.
Hike from Fira to Oia. Being a local and having done this route many times, I can tell you that for a few minutes, you will feel as though you are walking in paradise. The view is magical and unique. I’m sure the experience will reward you. Also, a catamaran trip to the volcano and the hot springs is a must!
And you must visit one of the wineries on the island to taste local wines. Ideally, you should visit at least three wineries to browse the vineyards of the island and taste some of the most delicious and famous wines in the world.
Best places to shop?
In Fira, there are many boutique stores, and souvenir shops. In Oia, you will also find amazing galleries, jewellery shops, and concept stores. Also in Oia, you will find the leading Atlantis bookstore, which has been named one of the best in the world.
Must-see museums and monasteries?
Any museums or monasteries that shouldn’t be missed? Definitely the prehistoric settlement in Akrotiri but also Ancient Thira in Kamari. In Fira, you will find the Archaeological and the Folklore Museum of Thira. Do not miss a visit to the Wine Museum of Mr. Koutsogiannopoulos, it’s amazing. Also, the Monastery of the Prophet Elias in Pyrgos is located at the top of the mountain and so you can admire its architecture as well as the panoramic view of Santorini from its highest point.
If you’ve ever wondered where local families head to for a perfect day at the beach in Chania, it’s the same spot where you will find Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis and First Lady Mareva Grabowski Mitsotaki, who spend most of their summer weekends here.
Marathi is around a 17 km drive from the city of Chania and this gorgeous spot boasts two clear, sandy beaches that are separated by a charming little port. Both of these bays are organised, so you will find rows of umbrellas and sunbeds, which are filled with visitors who come here for all-day swimming, followed by a late lunch at one of the many cafes or restaurants along the coast- serving delicious local seafood and other well-known Cretan dishes.
Ioanna Filippakis, who along with her brother and parents own and run Marathi Villas and Psamathi Restaurant, recently spoke with IN+SIGHTS GREECE about the family business and why this spot in town is one of the island’s best-kept secrets.
When did Marathi Villas open?
The property has been in our family for over three generations. Initially, there was only a small house and an olive grove. Then we renovated the spaces (without disturbing their natural beauty) and created eight elegant villas, which now accommodate up to four people in each. By the water, a space that used to be the local “kafeneion” has now become a restaurant, offering visitors a range of Mediterranean flavours, including fresh fish and good Cretan wine.
Tell us about the style and décor of the villas.
The four villas, with uninterrupted sea views, have a purely minimalist feel. The other four overlooking the garden have attics and are decorated in a 1930s and 1960s style. We chose pastel shades because they blend in perfectly with the surrounding environment.
Your restaurant “Psamathi” is a favourite amongst locals, tell us about your menu.
All the produce used in our restaurant is organic and locally sourced. The oil, honey, and wine are actually produced by our family. There is plenty on offer for brunch, lunch, and dinner. My favourite dish at the moment is Pasta served with Mediterranean squid and stuffed with Feta and olives. Our customers’ most loved breakfast is the Cretan specialty, which consists of Strapatsada (eggs with tomato and Feta), Yogurt with Walnuts and Honey, Sfakian pie, and Cretan Dakos.
Where do locals love to swim?
Very close by you will find a bay, known to a few, which is called “White Beach”. You can get to the bay by boat or by swimming. The sand is white and the waters are crystal blue. There are high cliffs, ideal for diving, and a small cave.
What makes Marathi an ideal spot to visit?
Marathi is a place where the natural landscape wins you over. Souda Bay which encloses the area does not allow the winds to get through, so the sea is always at peace. It’s always calm and looks like paradise. Marathi is ideal for rest and relaxation. Here it’s all about sunbathing and swimming. You can also enjoy walking along the adjacent bays and participating in water sports such as canoeing and pedal boating.
What history can be found here?
Marathi is built on Ancient Minoa at the Port of Aptera. Parts of Ancient Minoa, the jetty, and the ancient sanctuary are visible from here.
What are the best months to visit?
The best months for holidays here are May, June, and October. The weather conditions during these months are such that the temperatures are at the best levels so you can enjoy a wonderful vacation without the crowds.
Tell us about Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis’ connection to Marathi.
The Mitsotakis family originates from Chania. Prime Minister Mitsotakis’ father the late Konstantinos Mitsotakis built a holiday house here because he loved the wonderful natural environment with views of the mountains and the Gulf of Souda. The Prime Minister spent his childhood here and has incredible memories of summer vacations in Marathi, which he has now continued with his own children. Former Foreign Minister Dora Bakoyannis Mitsotakis, sister of the PM, considers Marathi “a place of unsurpassed beauty.”
The Greek Islands may be a vibrant oasis offering a cornucopia of pleasures, but we strongly suggest getting off the beaten path and heading to Mani — the central peninsula of the Peloponnese. Behold the marvel that is Limeni: Stone-built houses, turquoise waters, and colourful caiques (quintessential Greek postcard, anyone?) that are well worth the trip.
Preserved by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture, Limeni is a place where natural beauty, coastal vistas, and history combine. Located just minutes away from Areopolis and Gythio and in close driving proximity to Kalamata, this tiny traditional fisherman’s village is one of Mani’s best-kept secrets waiting to be explored.
What to See
Monastery Evretrias (Panagi H Vreti)
Must visit destination
This catholic church built in the 18th century, dating back to 1731, belonged to the Mavromichali family. Overlooking the seaside with its iconic bell tower, it’s definitely worth a visit (and an Insta-post).
Adventure with a side of crystal clear waters? Whether it’s scuba diving into the big blue, paddleboarding, kayaking, windsurfing, or simply an intimate sunset cruise you crave, Mani Water Sports is a recreation centre right on the “beach” that will fulfill your adrenaline needs. Paralia Dexameni is more like a natural rock formation (like a natural swimming pool), so if you’re looking for a “proper” beach – you may have to drive further to Foneas, Alypa, or Gerolymenas.
Charming alleyways
Just a 5km drive away is the village of Areopolis (in fact, Limeni is the seaport of Areopolis). This traditional village pervaded with stone-built houses has grown into a flourishing town filled with buzzing cafes, bars, and restaurants and if you’re lucky enough to be there on the weekend — a lively open-air market takes place in the main square every Saturday- you don’t want to miss it!
One of the most iconic places to visit and stay is at the Mavromichalai Hotel, built directly on the water’s edge. Now converted and restored into a luxury hotel, the Tower was the first residence of Limeni-raised Petrobey Mavromichalis, the last Bey (or ‘Prince’) of Mani and chief leader of the Maniots during the 1821 Greek War of Independence. Offering six exclusive rooms, all with unobstructed views of the picturesque bay and village of Limeni, visitors also have the opportunity to visit the tower and the tomb where the famous maniacal military leader is buried.
Luxury, history, and a private beach area with a sun terrace. Ah, where do we sign? Pirgos Mavromichali (or Tower Mavromichali) is a historically restored 18th-century stone tower, turned family-owned boutique hotel overlooking the Gulf of Messiniakos. The hotel provides practically everything you need for an enjoyable stay in Limeni, including an exclusive restaurant and bar overlooking the turquoise waters.
Where to Dine & Drink
O Takis
Prefer to live on the edge? Watch the fishing boats chug up and down the bay from your perch at taverna “O Takis”. Famed for its exquisite fresh seafood and its Insta-worthy sunset, “O Takis” is one of the best seafood restaurants in the Peloponnese. P.S. Ask for the Lobster Pasta, cooked with Takis’ “secret” recipe for two!
To Mavromichaleiko
If you’re craving Traditional Mani cuisine then “To Mavromichaleiko“ in Areopoli is your stop. Charming wooden tables and stone-built walls fill this family-owned taverna in Areopoli. We recommend their specialty: Hand-made pasta served with Maniatiko cheese, fresh farm eggs, and “siglino” (Mani salted pork). Trust us, you won’t leave unsatisfied.
Delicious cuisine
Teloneio
This two-story stone building, located just above the water, houses one of Limeni’s fave cafes and restaurants – Teloneio. Whether you’re looking to enjoy your coffee where the water breaks, or a quality feed to see the sunset, you won’t be disappointed. We recommend the smoked sausage from Mani wrapped in grilled capsicums — delicious!
Bukka Bar
After the sun sets in Limeni, make your way to Bukka Bar in Areopolis. Adorned with a giant fuchsia bougainvillea wrapping the entrance of the stone building, Bukka Bar serves some of the best (and most original) cocktails you’ll sip. You can’t go wrong with ‘Grandma’s Choice’.
Neo-tavernas have become a huge hit among both visitors and locals over the last decade because they provide authentic-style cuisine in a fresh, modern setting. Yet there’s an undeniable charm to the real, old, non-renovated Greek taverna that should be experienced at least once.
Many of the Greek tavernas listed here opened in the ‘20’s – the ‘50s, and it is much more than nostalgia that has kept them going, especially during a merciless financial crisis. Their charm, infused in the décor reflective of a bygone era, the owners, who have created dishes inspired by their culture for so many decades for so many hungry customers, are important factors. And then there’s the food itself, which may not be playful and innovative, culinarily-fluid or instantly Instgrammable, but it tastes pretty much the same as it did when it was first served up.
Athinaikon
History & Style: Opened in 1932, this is the only place in this guide that is a little bit closer to a restaurant than a classic taverna, although its menu is comprised of classic traditional dishes. Bang in the heart of central Athens, it has been a favourite of famous Greek painters, politicians, and poets for its homey and unpretentious yet chic style.
Dishes To Try: The large variety of meze dishes and platters eaten with a glass of ouzo. Giant beans baked in tomato sauce (gigantes), bite-sized minty, fried meatballs (keftedakia), pan-melted cheese with pastrami (saganaki me pastourma and tart, salty) and marinated smoked mackerel (tsirosalata).
Location: Themistokleous 2 & Panepistimiou Sts
To Koutouki Tou Andoni
History & Style: The cosy ambiance in this taverna, with a covered, tiled courtyard with a large fig tree, wine barrels, wooden tables with lion’s claws, and a vintage mosaic and stone walls hasn’t changed since it opened in 1958.
Dishes to Try: Fresh, fried small fish, calamari and cod, fava bean puree, wild greens, charcoal-grilled sausage, and meat patties (bifteki), as well as meze dishes with your house (hima) wine.
History & Style: Still standing proud after 60 years of operation, this family-run taverna makes you feel right at home. If you’re lucky you may be treated to a spontaneous live song performance by the owner’s grandsons.
Dishes to Try: Lamb chops, fried cod with garlic sauce (bakaliaros skordalia), fluffy meat patties, and hand-cut, freshly-fried potatoes.
Location: Paparseni 15, Polygono
Bakaliarakia Tou Damigou
History & Style: Considered one of Athen’s most antique tavernas, Damigos is said to have opened in 1864, when it specialised in cod. Today run by the fourth generation of proprietors, who have over time extended the menu. Numerous actors, writers, poets, and painters have traversed Damigos’ threshold over the century.
Dishes to Try: Definitely the cod, spicy anchovies (gavros), garlic sauce, and taramosalata.
Location: Kydathinaion 41, Plaka
Dioskouroi
History & Style: More of a traditional meze-restaurant-kafeneion than taverna, this is a favourite for many (since 1975) because of its scenic view of the Ancient Agora in Plaka.
Dishes to Try: Take a break from touring to eat a Greek salad and a grilled meat platter accompanied by a cold beer.
Location: Dioskouron 13, Plaka
Diporto
History & Style: By now somewhat famous for being so old, authentic, and traditional, Diporto is just a few minutes walk from the Central Athens Varvakeios Fish and Meat Markets. It is charming especially because it’s a basement that you enter by walking downstairs, as well as for its remaining, heavily traditional working class of the ‘50s décor; and the food is delicious too.
Dishes to Try: The house retsina wine, oil-cooked pulses (ladera), traditional slow-cooked stews (mageirefta) and small fried fish.
Location: Sokratous 9 St & Theatrou Square, Psyrri
To Eidikon
Image Courtesy of Culinary Backstreet
History & Style: This only remaining – since 1920, when it started off as a food store, as its décor reveals – old style-deli tavernas in Piraeus is located behind the tobacco factories at the central port. It was a favourite hangout of Greek Rembetika musicians Kazantzidis, Tsitsanis, and Papaioannou.
Dishes to Try: Sausage, the taverna’s well-known corned-beef omelette, fava, keftedes, sardines, and a side of juicy tomatoes, olives and good quality Greek gruyere cheese.
Location: Psarron 38 & Salaminos, Piraeus
Koutouki Tis Harikleas
History & Style: Located in an old refugee building, this place looks more like an antique store than a taverna. Old radios, sewing machines, cooking utensils, photographs, and wine barrels make up the surprising décor.
Dishes to Try: Lamb chops, fried pork, melted cheese, and great salads.
Location: Artis 29, Metamorfosi
Katsarina
History & Style: In the leafy northern suburb of Kifissia, this early 19th Century taverna has hardly changed its menu since it opened in 1893, making it a beloved old classic. In summer enjoy sitting out in the garden.
Dishes to Try: This place is for meat-lovers and is known for its steaks, as well as some home-cooked stews and oil-based (ladera) dishes.
Location: Kifissias Avenue 311, Kifissia
Karavitis
History & Style: This legendary taverna in Proskopos Square opened in 1920 and has a devout local as well as a tourist fan base. Its large wooden wine barrels and cosy ambiance are its most noteworthy characteristic feature.
Dishes to Try: Their famous meat patties, either plain or stuffed with cheese, crispy lamb chops, and traditional side dishes.
Location: Arktinou & Pafsaniou 4, Pangrati
Klimataria
History & Style: Originally a kafeneion next to the temple of St John, since 1927 this wine tavern offers customers both a real sense of old Athens and tasty dishes.
Dishes to Try: Lamb with potatoes slow-cooked with garlic in a ceramic pot, onion pie, melted cheese, tomato-stewed rooster with mashed potatoes, and good house wine.
Location: Theatrou Square 2, Psyrri
Marathoniti
Image courtesy of This Is Athens
History & Style: Since the 1970s this basement-level family-run taverna with an old mosaic-tile floor has lured many a diner, especially with its wine and meze dishes. All even better when accompanied by rembetika music.
Dishes to Try: Oven-baked beans (gigantes), sausage, lamb chops, wine meze dishes, and steaks.
Location: Ymittou 253 & Vinkelman 3, Mets
Metaxou
History & Style: Over half a century old, this wine tavern has retained the vibe of Athens’ bygone era when friends gathered to feast on simple yet authentic and delicious food.
Dishes to Try: Meat stew with orzo (yiouvetsi), shrimp pasta, and chicken cooked in tomato sauce.
Location: Pythodorou 10, Metaxourgeio
Mister Loukidelis
History & Style: Nea Filadelfia’s most well-known taverna opened in 1932 and is now managed by the third generation of proprietors.
Dishes to Try: If it’s your kind of thing, try the famous Loukideli’s testicles” (ameletita) meze. Also try the cheese pie, fried cod, fava puree, and snails.
Location: Georgiou apandreou 79, Nea Filadelfia
Peinaleon
History & Style: Old mirrors from 1919, wall paintings, antiques, and old photographs create a nostalgic and singular ambiance here.
Dishes to Try: Roasted mastelo cheese from Chios, coal-fire smoked aubergine dip (melitzanosalata), pork cooked with mastic, fluffy croquettes with wild greens and herbs and pork with hand-cut fresh fried potatoes.
Location: Mavromichali 152, Exarcheia
Roumeli
History & Style: Since 1930 when it opened, this taverna has changed its appearance several times, but the food has remained deeply gratifying.
Dishes to Try: Well-grilled, good-quality meats like lamb chops, steak, liver, and meat patties with fresh, hand-cut fries, as well as home-cooked stews. In winter warm-up with the meat soup.
History & Style: An authentic, traditional taverna that opened in 1922, signs of which you can see around the tavern- an old set of scales, wooden plate rack, and ceramic bowls. Through the glass floor, you can see the old wine barrels in the basement. Some days you can enjoy live Greek music performances.
Dishes to Try: Fried meatballs, goat, fried cod, and fava puree.
Location Kaisarias 9, Ymittou Square
O Vathis
History & Style: With a large, lovely garden, this 1974 taverna has a warm, family feeling both because of its friendly service and cosy ambiance.
Dishes to Try: Grilled bread with olive oil and oregano right from the start. Cabbage-wrapped meat dolmades, lamb chops, a big choice of tasty home-cooked stews and ladera dishes, fava puree, melitzanosalata and fried courgettes.
Location: Kyrou 7, Kifissia
Vourliotina
History & Style: A taverna that used to be the home of Yiayia (granny) Triandafyllia and has kept elements of her life, who was from Smyrna.
Dishes to Try: Unsurprisingly, the cuisine here is also influenced by Asia Minor and includes dishes like tabbouleh, pastrami pie, egg and cheese terrine, homemade liqueur and kazan dipi dessert.
The vegan food scene in Athens just keeps blossoming, and their menus are as sophisticated as they come.
Veganism has become a way of life for many Greeks, especially those of the younger generations. Being more well-travelled and culturally awake, vegan eaters in Greece today expect – and are getting – great dishes at affordable prices. The places we list below each have their original style, décor and menu, often with several exciting options that include influences from ethnic cuisine or fun and flavorsome creations made by the chef. Whether you’re strictly vegan or just in the mood for healthy, fresh, surprising and meat/dairy-free foods, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
VEGANAKI (Athanasiou Diakou 38, Makriyianni)
Comforting Greek homemade-style dishes and recipes with Asian or Mediterranean elements are given a contemporary overhaul here. Try the classic Pastitsio dish which is made with soya instead of beef mince and a rich bechamel sauce made from pureed cauliflower and almond milk, juicy burgers made with veggies and pulses, salads, soups, sandwiches and smoothies
AVOCADO (Nikis 30, Syntagma) The Original vegan gathering point in Athens is still a favourite for locals and visitors alike. The organic food here is nutritious, delicious and worldly – from comforting spicy Dahl or vegan sushi and avocado pizza to peanut-butter marinated tofu served in a vegan bowl with spicy edamame peas and quinoa, there’s something for everyone. The juices, teas, smoothies and desserts (try the chocolate fondant tart) rock too.
MYSTIC VEGAN (Emm. Benaki 76, Exarcheia) What started out as Mystic Pizza, which quickly stood out because they use hemp flour with cannabis seeds, in later years branched out opening Mystic Vegan. From seasonal soups and fresh salads to lachmatzoum, peinirli, pasta and of course many choices of pizza, this too has become a favourite for Athenian vegans.
VEGAN BEAT (Perikleous 56, Monastiraki)
Located in buzzy Monastiraki, this dinky restaurant with a few outdoor tables serves the vegan rendition of fast food- from burgers covered in melted vegan cheddar cheese and caramelized onions to souvlaki and moussaka, there are plenty of meat-free ‘junk food’ options to keep you satisfied.
PLANT KINGDOM (Frynis 1, Paleo Faliro) With a menu of fresh, seasonal, local and mainly organic ingredients, this green spot in the southern suburb of Faliro changes its menu every week. Try their vegan burger with vegan cheese and guacamole, lentil ‘meatballs’ with roast potatoes or try the dish of the day.
PEAS (Falirou 40, Koukaki)
Try a jackfruit burger, seitan club sandwich, cheesy tofu nuggets with black eye beans or any other creative and freshly conceptualized dish at this new arrival. Serving food that’s centred on flavour and health benefits, including smoothies, juices and mouthwatering desserts like lemon pie, Peas already has a devout following.
LIME BISTRO (Dekeleon 23, Gazi)
Lime in Gazi has an uplifting interior imbued with shades of blue and a back garden where you can taste a great choice of vegan burgers, a daily raw tart of the day, soups, power smoothies and salads. Try the raw carob-‘dako’ rusk tomato salad with creamy almond ‘myzithra’ cheese and the ‘seafood’ orzo pasta dish and don’t miss out on the banoffee pie.
YI (Grigoriou Lambraki 69, Glyfada)
Not only vegan but also raw, Yi’s sophisticated menu can’t fail to impress with its fantastic variety of homemade plant-based cheeses, nut-and-seed “butters”. The restaurant is also proud to be serving strictly glucose, gluten, sugar and dairy-free, non-processed foods only, making no sacrifice on flavour. They specialize in hot (with hot water added, not boiled) and cold soups and their most popular dish is the Burrito platter for two.
Greece’s first vegan/vegetarian souvlaki joint serves delectable gyro and wrapped souvlaki using mushrooms and pulses to replace meat and serving fresh crisp salads rich with aromatic herbs and seasonal veggies. Try their best selling dish Yellow, with mushroom gyro, avocado, handmade vegetable mayo, mustard, parsley and freshly cut fries.
guide revealing our favourite places to shop around here- designed to help you discover this ultra-chic district. 
