Our Complete Guide to Lefkada

As you drive from one side of this beautiful Ionian island to the other, you are warmly welcomed by quaint villages, lush greenery, and the most breathtaking turquoise waters! Read more to discover our complete guide to Lefkada.

From remarkable natural landscapes and world-famous beaches (that are even more beautiful in real life) to verdant mountains, delightful local cuisine, and a noteworthy winemaking tradition- this is the perfect spot for a summer getaway. Here we reveal where to eat, stay and play when visiting Lefkada. 

Getting there & getting around 

This is the only Greek island connected to the mainland (via a bridge). Located in the Ionian Sea, Lefkada is set on the west coast of Greece, and the closest airport is in Preveza; from here it’s a 30-minute drive. If you are arriving from Athens, the distance is 280km, which is around 4.5 hours by car. You can also reach Lefkada by ferry from the islands of Ithaca, Kefalonia, and Meganisi.

Seeing it’s a large island, hiring a car will allow you to explore more areas. Alternatively, you can use public transport, with most buses departing from Lefkada Town.

Where to stay

Lefkada Town is located North of the island. This is where you will find a range of restaurants, cafes, shops, and plenty of sandy beaches close by – making it a suitable option for families. A few kilometres away is Agios Ioannis, a beach town popular amongst those who like wind and kite surfing. Nikiana is a quaint little village town with a small beach and a nice range of waterfront taverns. Nidri is Lefkada’s main resort town with lots of places to eat and drink- just keep in mind it’s packed with tourists over the summer. Vassiliki is the perfect spot if you enjoy water sports, plus there is plenty of taverns and shops to choose from. Whereas Agios Nikitas is the prettiest part of the island- ideal for couples. 

Where to sleep

If you are looking for apartment-style accommodation (run by local families) check out Sappho Boutique Suites or Kavadias Apartments, which are both located in Vassiliki. For a modern stay in the heart of town, we recommend the Secret Boutique Hotel. And for couples seeking privacy, Katouna Suites in Lygia is a luxury adults-only hotel. Crystal Waters located in Nikiana village is one of the newest hotels on the island and offers stunning water views, while Pavezzo Retreatwhich is set in Katouna village offers a unique, secluded escape. 

Where to eat

When it comes to dining, there are plenty of good restaurants scattered all over the island. For traditional Greek cuisine try Andreas Tavern in Ponti, To Balkonaki tis Zois in Agios Petros, Sesoula Tavern in Dragano, Batzanakias The Tavern of the Village in Vassiliki, T’Agnatio in Agios Nikitas, Tavern Ionio or Avra Tavern in Athiani, and Kollokas Taverna in Katouna. Also, add Mavros Lagos and Nirikos to your list for their tasty local dishes. T’ Aloni is definitely a standout, with dishes that are made using fresh ingredients from the owner’s garden. And for a good range of fish taverns head to Sivota (our pick is Spiridoulas). For a more creative and modern food experience try Kato Rachoula Nouvell and Rachi in Exanthia, where you can also catch a beautiful view of the sunset. And for the freshest seafood by the water book Errikos in Meganisi.

Sweet treats

For some handmade gelato head to Ciao Gelateris. If you are looking for traditional Greek pastries and desserts check out Once Upon A Pie, and for a variety of local sweets and biscuits head to Sivota Bakery, My Bakery in Nidri, and Loli Bakery in the Old Town. 

Where to drink

For delicious cocktails in Lefkada Town head to Xartes or Karma Café. If you are looking for a nice little wine bar, make your way over to Mavros Lagos, which is also in the heart of town. For late-night drinks with water views check out Amente Restaurant & Café Bar in Kathisma, I Gonia Bar in Agios Nikitas, Tree Bar in Nidri, and NV Bar or Pavezzo Vintage Bar in Nikiana. With plenty of beach bars to choose from, some of the most popular spots are Areaia and Copla Beach Bar at Kathisma, NV Beach Bar in Nikiana, and Island Beach Bar in Nidri. Also, add Mylos Bar to your drinks list- this converted windmill serves great cocktails and splendid views of the sunset. 

Local delicacies & dishes

Lefkada is renowned for its Lentils of Egklouvi, which are grown in the most mountainous village on the island. They are served as a salad during summer and as a soup over the cooler months. The other famous legume dish to try here is Lathiria (field beans grown in the plains). For mains, we recommend Kokoras Kokkinisto (chicken and handmade pasta in a red sauce), Savoro- freshly caught fish that’s cooked in onion, garlic, and rosemary, or the Octopus with Macarotsinia (handmade pasta). This island is also famous for its Riganda, a hot roasted bread with olive oil and oregano, and the Ladopita, an olive oil-based dessert featuring almonds, sesame, semolina, and cinnamon. 

For small goods, the local salami and sausages made with pork and peppercorns are a standout. And if you would like to take some local delicacies home, look for some Pasteli (sesame seeds with honey), Mantolato (nougat), and homemade spoon sweets. Lefkada also produces some good local wine- if you find Vertzamo or Syflogo on the menu, we recommend you try a glass. Speaking of beverages, also taste Soumada– made from bitter almonds, then finish off with a sip of Rozolo– a traditional liqueur with subtle hints of orange and cinnamon. 

Where to swim

Some of the most beautiful beaches in the world are found in Lefkada and let’s be honest, the crystal clear waters are one of the main reasons people visit here year in, year out. The beaches located on the west coast of Lefkada (between Agios Nikitas and Vassiliki) all magnetize visitors who can’t wait to dive in. And when you are on this side of town, add Mylos (a local secret), as well as Kalamitsi and Lygia to your list.

In no way is a trip to Lefkada complete without a swim at Porto Katsiki. If you think the photos are filtered- no chance- images actually don’t do it
justice. This beach really is a slice of heaven.

The other absolute standouts are Egremni, Kathisma, Pefkoulia, and Agiofyli, which are all sublime with their white sand and turquoise waters. For a gorgeous little bay, that’s perfect for families and not so crowded drive over to Ammousa.

Surfers from all over the world make their way over to Poros Mikros Gialos each year, while those that enjoy windsurfing can be found at Vassiliki or Sivota– home to the World Windsurfing Championships. And if you get a chance, also dive into the stunning waters at Megali Petra and Avali Beach- favourites amongst locals thanks to their clear waters and stunning landscape. 

Lagoons and waterfalls

Divari and Ivaria lagoons surround the historic town of Lefkada, and don’t miss the stunning waterfalls of Nydri- it’s one of the best in Greece. The walk to the waterfalls is about 15-20 minutes and is quite easy to get there (even with kids). For even cooler waters and just a short drive from the town of Nydri, the Dimosari Waterfalls offer a refreshing dip during summer. 

Discover history

-For a deeper understanding of Lefkada’s history and culture, visit the Archaeological Museum, which presents artifacts dating from the Paleolithic era to the late Roman period. 

-Make your way over to the Temple of Apollon and also check out the medieval Castle of Agia Mavra, which was built by the Franks in 1924. The castle was later occupied by the Ottomans, who built mosques, a couple of schools, barracks, and several other buildings inside its walls. 

-The 1913-constructed lighthouse located in Cape Doukato at the very south of the island offers a breathtaking view of the open sea and the surrounding white rocks. 

Naos Pantakratora was built in the 18th century and is the first neo-classical building of Lefkada; here you will also see the Tomb of the famous Greek poet, Aristotelis Valaoriti. 

Viviliothiki Lefkas is a historical library founded in 1953 at the Palio Neoklasiko and has more than 60,000 books. 

– Tour the Venetian Olive Grove, a historically unique and living environmental monument that is home to olive trees that were planted in 1684 with the support of the Venetians, who took over the island and wanted to turn the people of Lefkada away from the sea and towards agriculture. Here you can enjoy a walk or a bike ride through the everlasting olive trees.

Spiritual sites

-Agios Nikolaos Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries dedicated to

Saint Nicholas. Here you will be greeted by a friendly nun who produces a range of honey, oil, and oregano.

-Panagia Faneromeni is the most important monastery of Lefkada and houses a small ecclesiastical museum with Byzantine icons and other religious relics.

-Agios Ioannis about 3km from Lefkada Town is the oldest church on the island. It is said that Apostle Paul walked here on his way to Rome.

-The church of Panagia Hodegetria is one of the oldest Byzantine monuments of Lefkada and is also popular amongst pilgrims. 

Must visit villages

Drive through Lefkada’s pine and chestnut-filled mountainous villages and on your way make sure you stop off at Agios Nikolaos, Agios Petros, and Eglouvi (famous for its lentils). Sit at one of the traditional cafes and enjoy a Greek coffee with the friendly locals. 

-Walk to the charming village of Agios Nikitas (cars are not permitted here) and explore the wonderful surroundings on foot.

-Exanthia is worth a visit for its unique architecture and local traditions.  

-Karya is one of the most picturesque villages on the island. Here you will be able to see traditional embroidery “Karsaniko”. The textile technique is very unique, as all pieces of art are still handmade by locals using traditional methods. You can discover more at the textile museum.

-Sivota is a quaint little fishing village, an ideal spot for lunch. 

Stroll through Lefkada Town

The capital of Lefkada is filled with narrow cobbled alleyways and traditional architecture. Here you can buy some local souvenirs and delicacies such as homemade liquor, honey, and spoon sweets that are all unique to the island. You will also come across numerous cafés, taverns, a nice harbour, and a welcoming sea breeze on a warm night. Make sure you walk across the wooden bridge, which is one of the island’s landmarks and a good spot to catch the sunset. 

Can’t leave until you… 

-Fly above the beautiful landscapes. If you are a thrill seeker make sure you paraglide!

-Grab yourself some locally made pine honey from the street stalls on Dragano on Epar Od. Komiliou.

-Hike up to Profitis Ilias. It offers a wide view of the surrounding landscape and sea- the perfect spot to take photos.

-Go windsurfing, kitesurfing, scuba diving, flying on a propeller plane, horseback riding, mountain biking, and sailing around the surrounding islets- these are some of the adventurous activities on offer in Lefkada.

-Drive through the Stavrota Mountains. Lefkada is not only blessed with beautiful beaches but also lush greenery and an endless horizon. The open roads allow visitors to capture the best of both worlds. 

– Soak up the views from the Lighthouse in Cape Lefkatas (sunset is the best time to visit). Here you will also find the rubble that was once the Temple of Apollo, where sacrifices were made to the gods in ancient times.

Day trips from Lefkada

Lefkada is also an ideal base for those who want to explore nearby islands. Kalamos Island across the village of Mitikas is a remote spot that offers complete privacy. You are also able to sail to Ithaca, Meganisi, and Fiskardo harbour in nearby Kefalonia. Other great day trips include Pringiponisa and Kastos. If you get the chance, also cruise to the famous Skorpios “The Island of Onassis,” which is set to become a resort for the super-rich and famous.

All images by IN+SIGHTS GREECE © 

Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria

Wild landscapes, diverse beaches, thermal springs, lively summer festivals in beautiful village squares, rugged mountains, and tavernas serving foods made from organic produce and local goods like goat’s cheese, honey, and meat are all part of the Ikaria experience. 

The island is known both as the ‘land of the exiles’ because this is where communists were sent to live during Greece’s Junta years and as ‘The Island Where People Forget to Die’ because of its Blue Zones reputation, is not glamorous but has managed to capture the hearts of even the most demanding travelers because of its unique appeal. 

Discover the 10 Best Things to do in Ikaria

1. Dance at the Panigiri

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria
Ikarian Panigiri

With over 100 local community dance, live music, and food festivals running between May and October, the island hosts guests from around the world at these familial and sometimes riotous events. Attending should be done with respect to the locals and their traditions, and is a way of discovering religious, cultural, and sometimes near-Pagan customs that span the ages. It’s also a fantastic opportunity to see villages and their surroundings that one wouldn’t normally visit, as well as meeting and partying with their usually warm and welcoming inhabitants. Try the local fare – usually goat meat, tomato salad, fries, local wine, and other dishes cooked by community volunteers and housewives and try to stay up ‘til dawn.

2. Visit the Thermal Springs

There are eight hot springs on the island, which have been enjoyed for their therapeutic powers (helping to ease respiratory, rheumatic, gynecological, intestinal, and even anxiety-based problems) since antiquity.  They are reputed as some of the most radium-rich waters globally and some suspect they contribute to Ikaria’s impressive health record. You’ll find them at Aghios Kirikos, Aghia Kyriaki, Lefkada, and Therma. Instead at Xylosyrtis village, you’ll find a cold water spring that’s also lauded for its health-boosting effects (especially for kidney problems) and is called ‘immortal water’.

3. Go to Seychelles

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria
Stunning Seychelles

A beach that happened by accident as the result of a building project, Seychelles (south of Aghios Kyrikas) is the island’s most famous beach because of its white limestone rocks and turquoise waters. It’ll be busy during high season so try going early in the morning if you want space! But there are many other lovely beaches to swim at around the island. Armenistis is a wide, sandy, family-friendly beach not far from several great places to eat, Nas beach is wild and where you’ll find the ruins of the Artemis Temple and a river, Prioni is a beautiful, small free beach with ebullient waters, Messakti and Evdilos beaches are organized beaches with more people and nearby cafes/tavernas. 

4. Eat like a local

A household food garden is a common thing in Ikaria, where fresh, seasonal produce is treated as a priority. With an overpopulation of goats (that actually endangers the land from being chomped up almost entirely), goat’s meat, milk, yogurt, and especially ‘kathoura’ cheese are readily available. Other popular locally-farmed products include giant courgettes, which are served with olive oil and lemon or combined with other vegetables to make briam, a sort of ratatouille. In some parts of the island, namely the port of Aghios Kyrikos and Fournoi, you’ll find restaurants serving locally-fished lobster, popularly prepared as a saucy pasta dish known as ‘astakomakaronada’. Wherever you’re staying you’re bound to find good tavernas or restaurants serving traditional dishes as well as souvlaki joints, bakeries selling cheese pies and other Greek pastries, but some of the most loved places to eat include Thea’s Restaurant, CousinA, Sto Kambi, Platanos Taverna, Rachati Stou Pouriezi, Anna’s Fish Taverna, Arodou and Krioti.

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria
Fresh flavours of Ikaria

5. Stock up on Ikarian Honey & Preserves

Good, pure honey is liquid gold for the body and soul and Ikaria makes abundant quantities. Thyme, white heather, arbutus (strawberry), pine, and reiki honey are produced by several experienced locals who have dedicated their lives to beekeeping. You’ll find local honey sold at most mini markets and local food shops αs well as online. A place that visitors shouldn’t miss for local honey, preserves, and more is the self-funded Women’s Cooperative of Raches. The hard-working, talented, and creative members concoct wonderfully delicious spoon sweets, jams, and liqueurs and offer service at tables outside their space, where you can try mouthwatering fresh pies, cakes, and ice cream with your coffee. 

Go for a Hike 
Ikaria changes quite dramatically from one location to another – some parts are rugged, barren, and mountainous and others lush, with flowing streams, gorges, waterfalls, rivers, or pretty coasts. The island is great for walking, hiking, and climbing and there are well-organised marked routes that one can follow by getting hold of a hiking map. Explore the Natura 2000 zones (like the Ikaria On Foot Circuit, which is 25km long). Find out more on Ikaria travel websiteHiking Ikaria and Discover Ikaria. 

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria
Icaria-pure-honey

Hang Out in the Square

Scientists have researched numerous factors that may contribute to the Ikarian people’s longevity status – from diet and radium-rich soil to exercise (field-work and farming). The aspect that is thought to have the greatest impact on living a long life, not only in Ikaria but everywhere, is thought to be community – not being lonely, as people increasingly are in today’s virtual – not to mention locked down – age. In Ikaria, throughout the year, people of all ages commune together to eat, discuss, play backgammon, cook, play music and work. There is a close-knit support system among neighbours. This can be experienced by visiting any village square in the post-sunset hours when people head out to see each other and connect. Grab a backgammon set and a cold beer and join in on the fun! 

Shop Ikarian Souvenirs 
From ‘Ikarian Evolution’ hoodies and humorous mugs relating the playful island spirit to lovely handmade jewellery and traditional décor items, there are plenty of great shopping choices at Pantelis & Ursula Kastanias’ store in Raches. Another great option for shopping for local souvenirs is Ploumi at Aghios Kyrikos port, where they sell handmade bags, wallets, mugs and other objects made with attractive materials and designs. Over the last few years, Ikaria has seen a rise in locally-created natural cosmetics, And you’ll find some of the best at Melia in Raches, including soaps, creams, lotions, and oils for the face and body as well as organic food products. 

Take a Wine Tour

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria
Traditional cooking at Afanies Winery

Another wonderful way to experience the island’s variability and beauty are by visiting its wineries and sampling wines made from local and other Greek grapes as well as food. Tsantiris Winery in northwestern Ikaria produces 100% organic wines, Afianes winery regularly hosts dinners, events such as weddings and concerts, and tastings, while Karimalis winery hosts dinners as well as a farm stay, exploration of the winemaking facilities and tastings. Make sure you call in advance to book an appointment.

Learn From Locals

Over the years, as Ikaria has become so famous in corners of the world where it was formerly completely unknown, visitors have flocked here to learn the secrets of wellbeing. To locals, the secret was naturally just being, but today they have understood that there are interesting ways to combine a visitor’s experience with education of their beautiful land’s nature and tradition. So why not combine a holiday there with a cooking class, herb gathering, and tasting, alternative healing practices? Find out more from The Egg for yoga and mindfulness, The Ikarian Centre for ceramics and crafts, Hiking Ikaria and Ikarian Footprints for herb gathering, Ikaria Dance for traditional dancing, Diane Kochilas for cooking, and Joey Brown for writing.

Staying at an Old Captain’s House on Serifos

Spending a few days on a Greek island, staying at an original 19th Century stone house that once belonged to a great Captain, is definitely a unique experience.

Last September I was lucky enough to visit Serifos again after two years. Only this time I would spend my days and nights in an old Captain’s Mansion, ‘Captain’s House Serifos’, that was lovingly restored by Manos and Emmy, to return to its original form, retaining all those elements that take you to the past, when the Lord of the house was sailing the seas. Manos and Emmy decided to leave their hectic lives in the Greek capital and have a more relaxed and balanced life on the island of Serifos. They made over the house with their own hands, little by little, bringing it back to its original state. 

 

We had to climb a few steps of Kato Serifos to face the old mansion, -next to the Primary School and the Folklore Museum- with the red vintage door and the red wooden shutters, as tradition dictated. In the Captain’s houses and generally in the houses of affluent people, the frames were usually painted red, in contrast to the blue uniformity of the Cyclades. The house belonged to Captain George Peloponnese (1868-1945), the grandfather of Manos, who built it in the late 19th century. Through this house, Manos and Emmy narrate their family history to people from all over the world, offering a real time travel, and their hospitality is truly special.

After enjoying a glass of iced tea with rosemary on the terrace of the Captain’s House overlooking Livadi, the port of the island, we opened the imposing red door next to the bell. An impressive corridor with vintage concrete tiles stretched out in front of us and our journey back in time began. The house is decorated with antiques and vintage furniture that belonged to Captain George. The hall is dominated by the photo of the Captain who looks at us sternly while his rosaries are spread out on the ornately carved buffet, which he definitely must have brought from a trip to Asia. It is like he is absent on a trip and will soon make his way back home. 

 

The two bedrooms in the background with iron beds and vintage wooden wardrobes that are real ornaments welcomed us warmly with the sunbeams piercing through the shutters and spreading a golden light on the white sheets. There is another room, the dining room, before entering the kitchen, with embroidery, an impressive caravan, the chandelier dating from 1907 and a chest that challenges you to search, as if you will find a hidden treasure with secrets of the past.

 

Captain’s House has an equipped kitchen and a lovely bathroom, that are modern but retain elements of the past. In the kitchen, with its impressive black and white floor, for example, features a tiny marble sink that has been preserved, as well as an old wooden oven , which resembles a fireplace. Manos and Emmy would leave fresh eggs from their hens in our fridge, while various herbs and teas from Serifos were waiting in the cupboard to get into the vintage cups.

We loved this house because it made us feel like we were the protagonists of a historical film. 

*Images by Polina Paraskevopoulou © (Copyright)