Ikaria Archives - Insights Greece

Under the Radar Greek Islands to Book for 2026

Discover six under-the-radar Greek islands to book for 2026, from Koufonisia and Ikaria to Ithaca and Fournoi, for a quieter summer in Greece.

Right now, people are deep in planning their summer in Greece, and the conversation has shifted slightly. It’s less about the obvious islands and more about finding places where you don’t need to rush. Not necessarily remote or unknown, but somewhere that hasn’t been completely shaped around demand.

Travellers seem to want a different kind of trip this year and it doesn’t include making a lot of reservations in advance, or a pressure to “do” everything, instead there is an interest in islands where you can still find a good taverna without much searching, be able to swim at a quiet beach, and move through a place without feeling like you’re following a schedule.

The six islands below sit comfortably in that space. Koufonisia, Amorgos, Ikaria, Karpathos, Fournoi and Ithaca all have their own following, but they haven’t tipped into something predictable. Yes, they take a little more effort to get to, but that tends to shape the experience in the best way. What you get in return is a side of Greece that feels more authentic.

Insights Greece - Under the Radar Greek Islands to Book for 2026

Koufonisia

A short ferry from Naxos, this is one of those places where everything feels close from the moment you arrive. The main village sits right on the water, and from there a coastal path runs east, linking a string of beautiful beaches including Pori, Fanos and Italida, each one easy to reach on foot and edged by the kind of clear, shallow water that keeps people here most of the day.

There’s very little structure to how time is spent. You swim, you stop, you eat, and then you move on again. Lunch tends to mean grilled fish or octopus at places like Laska, Aneplora or Neo Remezo, where the menu follows what’s come in that morning. Evenings gather around the harbour and into Chora without much planning, with a small rotation of bars and tavernas carrying things through. For drinks, stop by TZET, an all-day restaurant and bar known for its cocktails, strong wine list and aperitif selection.

Amorgos

Further out in the Cyclades, getting here already sets a different tone. The coastline is steeper, more exposed, and the water shifts into a deeper blue. Beaches like Agia Anna and Mouros are less about the sunbeds and beach bars and more about the swim itself, the clarity, and the sense of space around you.

The Hozoviotissa Monastery remains the island’s defining landmark, set directly into the rock face, it definitely deserves a visit either early morning or in the afternoon. A late lunch might mean slow-cooked goat or local cheeses at To Limani tis Kyra Katinas or a longer evening meal at Apospero. Afterwards, Pegalidi is a good place to settle in for a quiet drink as Chora carries on at its usual unhurried pace.

Ikaria

Reaching Ikaria takes a bit more effort, and that distance shows in how the island operates. It’s large, mountainous, and spread out, with villages that feel self-contained and a coastline that changes character as you move around it. Armenistis and Evdilos are the easiest bases, while places like the Therma Springs and the small coastal village of Gialiskari give a better sense of the island beyond its better-known spots. Although Ikaria has become increasingly popular because of its Blue Zone status, it still doesn’t feel like a touristy island.

What defines Ikaria is how social it is. The panigiria, village festivals with music, food and wine, are part of everyday life and often run well into the early hours. Meals tend to be shared and unstructured, built around local wine, legumes, greens and fresh vegetables, with little sense of time shaping the evening. Thea’s Inn in Nas is known for fresh local cooking, while Artemis is a good spot to end the day over food and wine at sunset. For a great day of wine tasting and local produce visit Karimalis Estate.

Karpathos

Set between Crete and Rhodes, this is where the Aegean starts to feel less familiar. The coastline moves between open stretches and enclosed bays like Apella and Kyra Panagia, where the water is strikingly clear and backed by steep hills. Getting there takes a bit of commitment, with winding roads and long descents shaping the journey as much as the beaches themselves.

In the north, Olympos still holds onto its own way of doing things, shaped by years of isolation. You’ll notice it in the architecture, in the language, and in the food. Dishes like makarounes, handmade pasta with caramelised onion and cheese, appear alongside slow-cooked meats and local produce, with tavernas across the island keeping things rooted in what’s been done here for years. Places we return to include Athera Meze, Folia, Taverna Akropolis and Stefana Café and Restaurant for traditional dishes with views over the sea.

Fournoi

Tucked quietly between Samos and Ikaria, Fournoi remains one of the lesser-known islands in the eastern Aegean. Most people arrive by ferry, often on their way somewhere else, but many end up staying longer than planned. Life centres around the harbour, where fishing boats come and go throughout the day and a handful of tavernas line the waterfront.

The coastline is scattered with quiet coves and beaches reached by short drives or on foot, where most days are spent between the sea and long lunches by the water. Food is a big part of why people return. At Restaurant Nikos, seafood arrives straight from the boats moored nearby, while Miltos takes a slightly more modern approach to Greek cooking without losing the simplicity the island does so well.

Ithaca

Just off Kefalonia, the landscape shifts almost immediately, becoming greener, softer and more enclosed. The island is shaped by small bays and coves, with Vathy at its centre, wrapping around the harbour. From there, Kioni and Frikes offer smaller pockets of activity, each with a handful of tavernas and easy access to the water.

Known as the homeland of Odysseus, Ithaca has a slower, more understated feel than many of its Ionian neighbours. Most days are built around swimming off rocks or heading to places like Gidaki Beach, followed by long lunches that carry on without much interruption. Taverna To Steki keeps the focus on fresh fish and simple dishes, while Dona Lefki is worth arriving at just before sunset.

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The Taste of Ikaria: What Really Lives in Our Pantry

We take a look inside the traditional Ikaria food pantry, where beans, wild greens, thyme honey and home-pressed olive oil define the simple, longevity-driven flavours of the Greek island.

By Eleftheria Karakatsina

When I think about the taste of Ikaria, I don’t think of one dish- I think of a smell.

Warm bread torn open by hand, olive oil that smells like crushed grass and sun, wild greens bubbling quietly on the stove and a pot of beans that have been cooking so long you’ve stopped checking the clock.

If I had to describe the Ikarian pantry to someone who has never been here, I would say this, it’s humble, but it’s alive. Jars of beans, dried mountain herbs hanging upside down, honey that smells like thyme and wildflowers, homemade wine in reused bottles and olive oil in big tins that get refilled every year from someone’s cousin’s press.

It’s nothing flashy, nothing imported from far away- everything here tells a story and most of it comes from someone you know.

Insights Greece - The Taste of Ikaria: What Really Lives in Our Pantry

The Wild Greens: More Than Just a Side Dish

Wild greens (horta) are not a trend here, they’re just… lunch.

In spring, you’ll see people walking along the hillsides with small knives and cloth bags, which is nothing unusual, just a quiet understanding that this is what the land is giving right now.

Some of the greens that feel deeply Ikarian are:

–Radikia (wild chicory): slightly bitter, sturdy, honest.

–Vlita (amaranth greens): softer, almost silky when boiled.

–Zohos (sow thistle): delicate and a little sweet.

We simply boil them and finish them with good extra virgin olive oil and lemon. That’s it. Sometimes they sit next to beans and sometimes they are the meal.

What I love most is that gathering them slows you down- you notice the soil, the wind, the small yellow flowers you used to ignore and yuu feel part of something seasonal, not rushed.

Beans: The Quiet Backbone of the Table

If you opened an Ikarian cupboard, you would probably find at least three types of dried beans. Legumes are everywhere here because they make sense. They grow well and they store well. They also feed many people and they don’t need much else to make them tasty.

We cook:

–Fasolada: white bean soup with tomato and olive oil

–Revithia: (slow-cooked chickpeas, often baked overnight

–Mavromatika: black-eyed peas, usually with herbs and greens

They’re not fancy dishes but they’re filling and deeply comforting. You eat them and feel steady.

I think what makes beans so central here isn’t just nutrition, it’s the process. They take time. You soak them. You simmer them. You let them sit. Nobody is in a rush.

And honestly, some of the most important ingredients here are the simplest: onions, garlic, olive oil, dried oregano. Elsewhere they might be background flavours but here, they are the foundation.

The Herbs We Drink, Not Just Sprinkle

In Ikaria, herbs don’t live only in the kitchen drawer, they live in our kettles.

In the evenings, after dinner plates are cleared but no one is ready to leave the table, someone puts water on to boil. No caffeine. No rush. Just a handful of something gathered from the hills, steeping slowly. Herbal tea here isn’t a trend.

Common herbs we drink as tisanes include:

Wild oregano: sharp and deeply aromatic. As a tea, it’s strong, almost peppery, with a warmth that feels protective. Many people drink it at the first sign of a cold, or just when they feel run down.

Rosemary: woody and resinous, but surprisingly smooth when infused. The steam alone clears your head. It’s the kind of tea you drink when you want to feel alert but calm at the same time, like a gentle reset.

Sage: soft, silvery, and quietly soothing. As a tisane, it’s mild and comforting, something you sip slowly at night.

Ikarian herbs feel stronger to me than on other islands. Maybe it’s the wind, maybe it’s the rocky soil. They grow slowly, under stress, and somehow that concentrates everything; aroma, oils, character.

If one infusion captures Ikaria for me, it’s sage. I associate it with late evenings, a quiet kitchen, someone telling a long story you’ve heard before but don’t mind hearing again.

Honey and Wine: Everyday Pleasures

Ikarian honey is something else. Mostly thyme or heather-based, sometimes mixed with pine or wildflowers. It’s thick, aromatic, almost herbal and you can taste the hillside in it. We drizzle it over yogurt, over bread, into herbal tea when someone has a sore throat.

And then there’s wine.

Many families still make their own. Nothing branded and nothing polished. Just grapes, patience, and experience passed down from one generation to the next. It’s usually a bit cloudy, sometimes unpredictable, but it’s alive. Wine here isn’t saved for celebrations. It’s poured at lunch, shared at festivals, topped up without measuring. It’s part of the table, not the event.

Eating With the Seasons

In winter, we eat more beans, more stews, more slow-cooked dishes, in spring, the table turns green with wild horta, summer brings tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes, cucumbers still warm from the sun, figs split open by hand. whereas autumn smells like crushed grapes and fresh olive oil. You don’t need a calendar here, as the market tells you what month it is. Visitors often tell me they feel calmer eating this way and I think it’s because the food isn’t fighting the season, it’s cooperating with it.

A Moment That Stayed With Me

Once, I walked with an older neighbour into the hills to collect greens. She didn’t bring a book or a guide. She just knew. She’d point: “This one, yes. This one, no. This one only in small amounts.” When we got back, we boiled them, dressed them with oil from her brother’s trees, and ate them with bread she had baked that morning.

It was the simplest meal. But I remember thinking: this is wealth. Not money. Not variety. Just knowledge. Time. Trust in the land.

It changed how I see food. It’s not about complexity, it’s about relationship.

Bringing a Bit of Ikaria Into Your Own Kitchen

If you live far from here but want to bring some Ikarian feeling into your meals, start simple:

-Cook a pot of beans slowly, with olive oil and herbs.

-Use good extra virgin olive oil generously.

-Drink herbal tea at night instead of something stimulating.

-Add bitter greens to your plate.

-Eat with other people, slowly.

You don’t need to recreate the island.

Just pay attention to your ingredients, let them speak, and give them time.

That’s really what the Ikarian pantry teaches you.

And maybe that’s the quiet secret behind the flavour of this place.

This article is the second in our Ikarian wellbeing series that will continue to explore Ikaria through its kitchens, gardens, festivals, and the people who sustain its long-living communities. With Eleftheria as our guide, future articles will dive deeper into traditional recipes, herbal remedies, local celebrations, and everyday rituals that define life in a Blue Zone. You can read our first piece- Ikaria’s Wellbeing Secrets here.

About the Author

Eleftheria Karakatsina is the founder of Greek Superherbs, a New York-based company sharing wildcrafted herbal teas and raw honey from Ikaria, Greece. She spends her summers on the island, gathering herbs, foraging honey, and exploring how traditional wisdom can inspire modern wellness. Discover her products at greeksuperherbs.com and follow her journey @greeksuperherbs.

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Ikaria’s Wellbeing Secrets: The Ikarian Diet and Way of Life

Discover how the diet, herbs, and daily rituals of Greece’s Blue Zone island shape longevity and wellbeing.

On the Greek island of Ikaria, life does not rush to meet the modern world. It continues quietly and deliberately, shaped by sunlight, seasons, and human connection rather than schedules or screens. Meals stretch into conversations, afternoons soften into rest, and wellbeing is not something to be pursued, it is a part of everyday life.

Long before Ikaria was recognised as one of the world’s Blue Zones, its people were living in a way that naturally supported longevity. They ate simply, moved often, rested deeply, and stayed closely connected to one another. Today, that same lifestyle remains understated, deeply rooted, and profoundly human.

This feature marks the beginning of an ongoing series exploring the food, daily rituals, and philosophy behind life on one of the world’s healthiest islands. Developed in close collaboration with Eleftheria Karakatsina, founder of Greek Superherbs, the series draws on her long-standing relationships with Ikarian locals- from farmers and beekeepers to foragers, winemakers, and home cooks. What follows comes directly from Eleftheria’s experiences, sharing the stories, wisdom, and traditions she has lived on the island.

Insights Greece - Ikaria's Wellbeing Secrets: The Ikarian Diet and Way of Life

by Eleftheria Karakatsina

Discovering Ikaria and Its Way of Life

My connection to Ikaria began long before the island became known as a Blue Zone. I first went there because I was searching for a Greek island that combined everything I love, such as mountains to climb, trails to hike, quiet beaches where you can be just you and the sea, and simple, local, wholesome food. I wanted somewhere authentic, not crowded or overly touristy. But what kept me returning was the feeling that life there moves in perfect harmony with nature.

I’ve always been fascinated by places where food is not just something you eat, but something that connects you to people, to the land, and to time itself. The first time I arrived, I remember stepping off the ferry and smelling wild oregano, sage, and pine carried by the sea breeze. Meals weren’t hurried or planned. Someone would bring bread and honey, another would bring tomatoes, someone else olives and wine, and before you knew it, there was a table full of laughter and food that felt like it came straight from the earth.

Everything in Ikaria feels intentional and real, and the food is simple: vegetables, beans, herbs, extra extra extra virgin olive oil, and every ingredient has a story. People don’t talk about “healthy eating” or “wellness,” they just live it naturally and nothing is forced or complicated. It was this balance between food, nature, and community that made me fall in love with the island’s way of life.

Every time I return, I feel that same sense of grounding and the island quietly reminds me of what truly matters- to eat simply, live slowly, and stay connected.

The Rhythm of Daily Life on Ikaria

Ikaria feels like my second home, not just a place I visit but a place that somehow resets my rhythm of living. I go back every summer, either in early June to gather fresh sage and oregano from the rocky hills or in late September to help local beekeepers harvest Anama honey made from blooming heather. Those moments are my personal rituals.

It’s not only the natural beauty that calls me back (though it is breathtaking) it’s the people who make Ikaria special. Everyone greets you as if they’ve known you for years. Neighbours bring you vegetables and fruit from their gardens (figs being my favourite), they invite you for tea and honey on their porch and there is no sense of hurry, no separation between locals and visitors, you just instantly belong.

Ikaria quietly teaches you how to live well without ever saying it out loud, the island simply slows you down until you finally match its pace. You start waking up with the sun, eating when you’re hungry, resting when you’re tired. There is something deeply healing about that simplicity and each time I leave, I feel like I’ve remembered something important I had forgotten- life does not need to be rushed to be full.

The Ikarian Diet: Simple, Local, and Nourishing

The Ikarian diet is beautifully simple. Restrictions, counting calories, macros, or longevity trends are unknown words for them. What matters is living close to the land and eating with purpose. Ikarians eat what they grow, and most meals are plant-based, built around vegetables, legumes, herbs, and extra virgin olive oil.

Breakfast is usually light and nourishing, such as a slice of sourdough bread drizzled with Ikarian honey and tahini, along with a cup of herbal tea. Lunch might be lentils, beans, or wild greens sautéed with olive oil and fresh herbs. Dinner is often shared with neighbours or family, a slow meal under the vines, with bread, salad, a vegetable stew like soufiko, and always a glass of homemade wine.

The most important part is that nothing is processed. Food in Ikaria is not something you fit into your day; it is the day. It is how people gather and connect and that is what makes the Ikarian diet so special.

Herbs, Teas, and Natural Products

Herbs are truly at the heart of Ikarian life and every home has jars filled with dried herbs gathered from the hillsides, they include sage, oregano, rosemary, thyme, and chamomile. You can smell them the moment you walk into a kitchen.

Ikarians drink herbal infusions throughout the day. Sage is used for immunity, rosemary for circulation and memory, oregano and thyme for digestion and respiratory health, and chamomile for calm and better sleep. Dandelion supports liver health, and mint or lemon verbena refreshes in summer. These herbs grow wild and are hand-picked in small bundles, dried slowly in the shade or on covered balconies. There is no rush, just patience and respect for the plant.

Even now, yiayias (grandmothers) carry baskets full of freshly picked herbs, knowing exactly where to find the best sage or when to harvest oregano for the richest aroma. These traditions were never written down; they were lived and shared. Herbal teas are part of daily life, consumed in the morning instead of coffee, after meals to aid digestion, or in the evening to relax. Every plant has a purpose, and somehow, it works.

Honey, Wine, and Local Flavours

Honey and wine are sacred in Ikaria, with bees feeding freely on wild thyme, pine, and heather, each producing honey with distinct flavours. Anama honey, from blooming heather, is dark, earthy, and slightly caramelised. Beekeepers treat their bees like family, speaking softly and moving carefully around hives. The honey here is never heated or filtered.

Wine is often homemade from indigenous grape varieties such as Fokiano, a deep red with forest fruit aromas, and Begleri, a crisp white. Grapes are sometimes crushed by foot in stone vats, and some families age wine in clay amphorae, as in ancient Greece. The wine is shared freely, poured into reused bottles, and always accompanied by laughter and music, highlighting Ikaria’s generosity, simplicity, and joy in its purest form.

Life, Community, and Longevity

Longevity is as much about lifestyle as diet and you will find people move constantly but naturally, walking, climbing hills, and tending gardens. Afternoon naps are common, which is not laziness but alignment with the body’s rhythm.

Community is central and neighbours check on each other, share food, and celebrate together. Panigiria, or village festivals, can last all night and no one is truly alone- this deep sense of belonging is medicine in itself.

It’s the small moments that capture the essence of Ikaria, such as cooking together, sharing stories across languages, and a stranger offering fresh peppermint leaves from her garden, these all reflect a way of life where connection, joy, and gratitude are built into everyday living. Longevity is not a number; it is the quality of life lived fully.

Bringing Ikaria into Your Daily Life

You do not have to live on an island to live like an Ikarian. Start simple: wake with the morning light, enjoy a slow breakfast, cook even a small meal, and eat without distractions. Move naturally, climb stairs, walk, garden, and carry your groceries. Rest when your body calls for it and make sure to connect with friends, neighbours, and family.

Herbal teas are also an easy way to start- sage, oregano, rosemary, and chamomile are the classics. Add a teaspoon of honey for sweetness and antioxidants, these small rituals connect you to the slower, natural rhythm of life in Ikaria. Wellness begins the moment you slow down.

What’s Next in the Series

This article is the first in our Ikarian wellbeing series that will continue to explore Ikaria through its kitchens, gardens, festivals, and the people who sustain its long-living communities. With Eleftheria as our guide, future articles will dive deeper into traditional recipes, herbal remedies, local celebrations, and everyday rituals that define life in a Blue Zone.

About the Author

Eleftheria Karakatsina is the founder of Greek Superherbs, a New York-based company sharing wildcrafted herbal teas and raw honey from Ikaria, Greece. She spends her summers on the island, gathering herbs, foraging honey, and exploring how traditional wisdom can inspire modern wellness. Discover her products at greeksuperherbs.com and follow her journey @greeksuperherbs.

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Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria

Wild landscapes, diverse beaches, thermal springs, lively summer festivals in beautiful village squares, rugged mountains, and tavernas serving foods made from organic produce and local goods like goat’s cheese, honey, and meat are all part of the Ikaria experience.

The island is known both as the ‘land of the exiles’ because this is where communists were sent to live during Greece’s Junta years and as ‘The Island Where People Forget to Die’ because of its Blue Zones reputation, is not glamorous but has managed to capture the hearts of even the most demanding travelers because of its unique appeal.

Discover the 10 Best Things to do in Ikaria

1. Dance at the Panigiri

Insights Greece - Top 10 Things to do in Ikaria — Ikarian Panigiri

With over 100 local community dance, live music, and food festivals running between May and October, the island hosts guests from around the world at these familial and sometimes riotous events. Attending should be done with respect to the locals and their traditions, and is a way of discovering religious, cultural, and sometimes near-Pagan customs that span the ages. It’s also a fantastic opportunity to see villages and their surroundings that one wouldn’t normally visit, as well as meeting and partying with their usually warm and welcoming inhabitants. Try the local fare – usually goat meat, tomato salad, fries, local wine, and other dishes cooked by community volunteers and housewives and try to stay up ‘til dawn.

2. Visit the Thermal Springs

There are eight hot springs on the island, which have been enjoyed for their therapeutic powers (helping to ease respiratory, rheumatic, gynecological, intestinal, and even anxiety-based problems) since antiquity. They are reputed as some of the most radium-rich waters globally and some suspect they contribute to Ikaria’s impressive health record. You’ll find them at Aghios Kirikos, Aghia Kyriaki, Lefkada, and Therma. Instead at Xylosyrtis village, you’ll find a cold water spring that’s also lauded for its health-boosting effects (especially for kidney problems) and is called ‘immortal water’.

3. Go to Seychelles

A beach that happened by accident as the result of a building project, Seychelles (south of Aghios Kyrikas) is the island’s most famous beach because of its white limestone rocks and turquoise waters. It’ll be busy during high season so try going early in the morning if you want space! But there are many other lovely beaches to swim at around the island. Armenistis is a wide, sandy, family-friendly beach not far from several great places to eat, Nas beach is wild and where you’ll find the ruins of the Artemis Temple and a river, Prioni is a beautiful, small free beach with ebullient waters, Messakti and Evdilos beaches are organized beaches with more people and nearby cafes/tavernas.

4. Eat like a local

A household food garden is a common thing in Ikaria, where fresh, seasonal produce is treated as a priority. With an overpopulation of goats (that actually endangers the land from being chomped up almost entirely), goat’s meat, milk, yogurt, and especially ‘kathoura’ cheese are readily available. Other popular locally-farmed products include giant courgettes, which are served with olive oil and lemon or combined with other vegetables to make briam, a sort of ratatouille. In some parts of the island, namely the port of Aghios Kyrikos and Fournoi, you’ll find restaurants serving locally-fished lobster, popularly prepared as a saucy pasta dish known as ‘astakomakaronada’. Wherever you’re staying you’re bound to find good tavernas or restaurants serving traditional dishes as well as souvlaki joints, bakeries selling cheese pies and other Greek pastries, but some of the most loved places to eat include Thea’s Restaurant, CousinA, Sto Kambi, Platanos Taverna, Rachati Stou Pouriezi, Anna’s Fish Taverna, Arodou and Krioti.

5. Stock up on Ikarian Honey & Preserves

Good, pure honey is liquid gold for the body and soul and Ikaria makes abundant quantities. Thyme, white heather, arbutus (strawberry), pine, and reiki honey are produced by several experienced locals who have dedicated their lives to beekeeping. You’ll find local honey sold at most mini markets and local food shops αs well as online. A place that visitors shouldn’t miss for local honey, preserves, and more is the self-funded Women’s Cooperative of Raches. The hard-working, talented, and creative members concoct wonderfully delicious spoon sweets, jams, and liqueurs and offer service at tables outside their space, where you can try mouthwatering fresh pies, cakes, and ice cream with your coffee.

Go for a Hike
Ikaria changes quite dramatically from one location to another – some parts are rugged, barren, and mountainous and others lush, with flowing streams, gorges, waterfalls, rivers, or pretty coasts. The island is great for walking, hiking, and climbing and there are well-organised marked routes that one can follow by getting hold of a hiking map. Explore the Natura 2000 zones (like the Ikaria On Foot Circuit, which is 25km long). Find out more on Ikaria travel website, Hiking Ikaria and Discover Ikaria.

Hang Out in the Square

Scientists have researched numerous factors that may contribute to the Ikarian people’s longevity status – from diet and radium-rich soil to exercise (field-work and farming). The aspect that is thought to have the greatest impact on living a long life, not only in Ikaria but everywhere, is thought to be community – not being lonely, as people increasingly are in today’s virtual – not to mention locked down – age. In Ikaria, throughout the year, people of all ages commune together to eat, discuss, play backgammon, cook, play music and work. There is a close-knit support system among neighbours. This can be experienced by visiting any village square in the post-sunset hours when people head out to see each other and connect. Grab a backgammon set and a cold beer and join in on the fun!

Shop Ikarian Souvenirs
From ‘Ikarian Evolution’ hoodies and humorous mugs relating the playful island spirit to lovely handmade jewellery and traditional décor items, there are plenty of great shopping choices at Pantelis & Ursula Kastanias’ store in Raches. Another great option for shopping for local souvenirs is Ploumi at Aghios Kyrikos port, where they sell handmade bags, wallets, mugs and other objects made with attractive materials and designs. Over the last few years, Ikaria has seen a rise in locally-created natural cosmetics, And you’ll find some of the best at Melia in Raches, including soaps, creams, lotions, and oils for the face and body as well as organic food products.

Take a Wine Tour

Another wonderful way to experience the island’s variability and beauty are by visiting its wineries and sampling wines made from local and other Greek grapes as well as food. Tsantiris Winery in northwestern Ikaria produces 100% organic wines, Afianes winery regularly hosts dinners, events such as weddings and concerts, and tastings, while Karimalis winery hosts dinners as well as a farm stay, exploration of the winemaking facilities and tastings. Make sure you call in advance to book an appointment.

Learn From Locals

Over the years, as Ikaria has become so famous in corners of the world where it was formerly completely unknown, visitors have flocked here to learn the secrets of wellbeing. To locals, the secret was naturally just being, but today they have understood that there are interesting ways to combine a visitor’s experience with education of their beautiful land’s nature and tradition. So why not combine a holiday there with a cooking class, herb gathering, and tasting, alternative healing practices? Find out more from The Egg for yoga and mindfulness, The Ikarian Centre for ceramics and crafts, Hiking Ikaria and Ikarian Footprints for herb gathering, Ikaria Dance for traditional dancing, Diane Kochilas for cooking, and Joey Brown for writing.

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The Summer When Ikaria Went Quiet

What happens when the unassuming but world-famous “island of Panygiria” experiences a drastic cut in tourism?

In this age of Covid-19 restrictions falling like hailstones on everyone’s lives, the Blue Zones island of Ikaria – as the rest of the country – was banned from organizing its annual community festivals. Drawing visitors by the thousands, these traditional events featuring live music, an abundance of local food and wine and dancing ‘til the early hours were originally designed to bring the community together and raise funds for local infrastructure.

Insights Greece - The Summer When Ikaria Went Quiet — image via skin_grocery

Ikaria annually hosts around 100 Panygiria over six months – from May to October– around the island. In+Sights Greece spoke with two longtime foreign locals who revealed the consequences of restrictions on their beloved island.

The Ikarian people, known as “Ikariotes” are known for being resilient, resourceful and self-sufficient. Despite being known for their social character and tight communities, they hold an allure to those who prefer to defy convention and strict authority. The spirit of freedom and embracement of life is one of their strongest features, but it comes from daily discipline and hard work.

Reiner Juring, a German who built his permanent home on the northern Aegean island in 2010, says “Ikaria is still very much as I got to know Greece in the ‘70s-‘80s. There’s relatively little tourism and there’s a strong sense of solidarity among the residents (via neighborhood help, initiatives). Agriculture plays a major role and “old wisdom” – about horticulture, cattle breeding, herbalism, natural remedies, cooking winemaking, honey harvesting and olive oil production – still presides. The landscapes are still mostly virginal, with wonderful, mainly restored old footpaths and farm paths.”

When I ask Juring about what difference the Panygiri ban made to the island this year, he says “Unfortunately, over the decades the actual scope of this custom was degraded. In the high season of July and August the Panygiria often become extremely crowded with mostly tourists, both Greek and foreign. As a result, the local spirit of communion is diluted, as are the traditions themselves, like the Ikarian Dance that many tourists don’t know how to follow properly, thus preventing the older locals in particular from moving on an over-crowded dance floor. Also, some tourists bring their own food and wine/beers/drinks which contradicts the old traditions. One of the main scopes of these events is to raise money to create local infrastructure like roads, schools, hospitals, renovations in churches and so on.” Interestingly, Juring says, this year there were far fewer tourists on the island from April – August, which offered a breather of sorts to the locals.

“There were some positive effects such as: less traffic, cleaner beaches and streets, a quieter atmosphere in the squares and in the taverns and kafeneions. Many Ikariotes found time to focus on work during the lockdown months that they would otherwise not have been able to do. As for the ban on Panygiria, neighbours got together in several villages (without the live music and dancing), one or two goats were slaughtered and people sat together in smaller groups. According to many Ikariotes, it was “like it used to be” and everyone found it very pleasant.”

However, and very importantly, he adds that the ban on the festivals has taken its toll on both the local economy and the landscape: “The meat (mostly goat meat) the rest of the food and the wine sold at Panygiria are usually obtained from local residents. So this year these people couldn’t generate their annual income. Also, every year a few hundred goats are slaughtered for the Panygiria. Without these in 2020 these goats will unfortunately contribute to the further destruction of the forest, as there are some irresponsible goatherds who don’t keep their animals fenced in as prescribed but let them roam around destroying nature. This destruction has already been documented and there are also some organizations trying to contain the damage.”

“Ikarians have a strong sense of self-sufficiency, a robust and communal spirit that honours solidarity and a tradition in each home of owning a goat, or a few chickens and growing a food garden,” says Ursula Kastanias, who moved to Ikaria in 1986 from her native Switzerland and married a local man, with whom she runs the charming ΠU giftshop in Raches village. “But with such a huge reduction in tourism other areas of our livelihood have been hit, because maybe we have potatoes and meat from our back yard but you can’t pay bills with those,” she says.

For many years, Kastania has been running the very successful German language blog Ursula’s Ikaria, through which she has managed to raise 25,000-30,000 euros from foreign donations to help her local community in Raches mountain village. “Through the site, in which I write about Ikaria, I’ve raised money for heating in schools, the local hospital, the fire brigade and the Sports Association. These are all ways to improve local life, because already things are tough here. With the situation now, we have no idea yet what the real consequences will be – will have to see what we are faced with in winter.”

One can’t help but feel that Ikaria’s people will find a way to survive this crisis too, although that does not mean that they will suffer, as will people globally whose economic means of survivcal have been drastically or completely shut down. Still, their community spirit remains enviable in a world where individuals today are very much left to their completely solitary devices. Panygiria or not, the Ikarian people continue to live out their well-kept secret for longevity, or so I hope.

INFORMATION

Reiner Juring is the Editor of the Pure Places Website which presents German-speaking tourists with the natural and pure locations to visit around Greece. He also works as a freelance Proofreader for several German publishers.

You can find Ursula Kastanias’ store ΠU on Facebook: The store sells handmade jewellery made by her daughter and original T-shirts designed by her son as well as several other locally made items and products, all of which can be ordered online via their Facebook Page.

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The Athens Guide