What it’s Like to Solo Travel in ‘Lover’s Island’ of Santorini

Santorini is one of the most romantic destinations in the world- a place where couples from all over the globe visit to celebrate weddings and honeymoons. But that didn’t stop 22-year-old journalism graduate and social influencer Ciara Rose from taking a trip to this breathtaking destination alone!

Ciara, who currently resides in California, spoke with IN+SIGHTS GREECE about what it was like exploring this famous Cycladic island solo and shares some great tips on what to do here on your own.  

What made you decide to travel solo to Santorini?

While I was studying abroad in Rome, I realised living in Europe was the perfect opportunity to travel to some of my dream destinations. I had always wanted to visit Santorini, so I seized the moment. I chose to travel solo partly so that I could create an itinerary completely to my liking, and also because I hadn’t met any other student at the time who had the same interests. I learned that you simply cannot wait for others to live your best life.

Insights Greece - What it's Like to Solo Travel in 'Lover's Island' of Santorini

Did you have any hesitation after booking?

To be honest, I didn’t realise how romantic Santorini was until I checked into my hotel as the only partner-less guest. To me, I was simply treating myself to a luxurious experience. I had travelled to Florence and Pisa alone weeks prior, so I felt empowered enough to enjoy my time on the island and gave myself enough activities to combat any feelings of loneliness.

How much did you research before you arrived?

I planned every aspect of my trip down to the hour- from my round-trip flight, my hotel, the shuttle to the hotel and back, restaurants, excursions, and more! While being spontaneous is nice, I find it vital to plan every trip so that you have a backup plan in place.

What was your first impression?

I was immediately in awe! Everything was beautiful – the whitewashed houses carved into the cliffs, the endless Aegean Sea, it was simply breathtaking. I loved the feeling of being there, it was remote and almost empty to the point where I felt as if I had the whole island to myself, as I travelled in the off-peak month of March and I couldn’t wait to explore!

What did you love most about this famous Cycladic island?

I loved the contrast- it felt both large and small, intimate and adventurous, welcoming, and distant. I loved the strong winds, the stray animals, and the incredible views of the sea.

Your favourite experiences?

Even during the off-season, I found many things to do. My favorite experience was booking a photoshoot with Greek photographer, Panos. He took me to the best locations on the island and in the end, I had over 100 amazing shots. I also highly enjoyed horseback riding. It was just me and the instructors, and I got to learn more about their business and Greek history while riding off into the sunset. Finally, I got a fish “pedicure” at a salon that was interesting, to say the least – definitely a must-try.

Insights Greece - What it's Like to Solo Travel in 'Lover's Island' of Santorini

Did you find the locals friendly and welcoming?

They are gregarious and understand when tourists need assistance. I got lost during a hike to Oia, had no cell reception, and desperately needed a taxi back to my hotel. I knocked on the door of a few locals who were having a gathering, and the ones that spoke English gave me accurate directions for the way to the taxi station. I’m so thankful for that.

Was there a time when you felt alone or unsafe?

The nights in Santorini were the most difficult – it was chilly and quiet, and being so close to the sea alone felt strangely isolating. Also, given that most of the cell reception was spotty and unstable, my anxiety increased, especially during my four-hour hike to Oia and back. During that hike, I was truly alone because I didn’t even have the security of the hotel staff to account for me if anything were to happen. I was also briefly lost there for a moment and had to rely on my instincts to guide me back to safety. However, when I was in the main areas and actually around other people, I felt much better.

Would you recommend Santorini for solo travellers?

I would not let the stigma around Santorini being a “couples only” destination deter any solo travellers from visiting. It is entirely possible to plan an enjoyable trip here completely alone.

Insights Greece - What it's Like to Solo Travel in 'Lover's Island' of Santorini

If you did it again, what would you do differently?

Initially, I thought, “yes, I would take someone with me on this trip,” but then I changed my answer. I believe that being solo on this trip forced me outside my comfort zone, which allowed me to further grow and mature as a person, I also gained a lot of inspiration. This is essentially one of the most important benefits of solo travel – it teaches you to rely only on yourself. The only thing is I would maybe visit closer to April or May when more shops are open and before the chaos of the summer months.

Will you be heading back to Greece? 

I would love to take my mother to Greece to see her experience the massive beauty and culture the country has to offer. If I ever get married, I would also bring my partner here to explore.

Your tips for travelling to Santorini alone?

Plan at least a month in advance of where you wish to stay, how long for, and have an idea of what to do. Also, get your money converted and bring enough cash – many vendors did not take cards and the ATMs charge fees. I would advise setting up an international cellular plan with your mobile so you remain connected to home and can make calls in case of any emergencies. Lastly, I would say to have fun! Enjoy it to the fullest because travelling solo is a luxury, not many have the flexibility, time, or confidence to do so, so take pride in your freedom and find a way to document your time. I recommend journaling, creating a website/portfolio, or starting a blog like I did so that you can reflect on the day and read it back years later.

You can read more about Ciara Rose’s travels here

Saying “I do” on Romantic Rhodes

Rhodes is a place many people have fallen in love with and it has become the perfect destination for lovers of love.

Honeymooners, newlyweds and wedding parties are now discovering the unique experiences that Rhodes can offer, as getting married on this gorgeous island on the Dodecanese provides you with the opportunity to combine your wedding celebrations with a great time away with family and friends.

Destination weddings require lots of planning, so we spoke to Greece’s leading wedding event specialists Lia and Stelios from White Events, to share their tips on saying “I do” in Rhodes.

Why do you think Rhodes is a great wedding destination? 

Any Greek island would be the right decision for a couple seeking a Mediterranean theme for their wedding day. But Rhodes will always be our number one suggestion as there is so much variety across the island, making it easy to cover all preferences. There are sea and mountains, rocks and sand, simple venues and churches, as well as more luxurious places where you can tie the knot. Plus, the sun is always shining- but it’s not extremely hot like other islands.

What are your favourite wedding spots on the island? 

Too many to choose from but we do have a list of favourites. For churches: Saint Paul’s in Lindos, Prophit Elias in Faliraki, and Agioi Apostoloi in Faliraki. The best venues are the Springs of Kalithea with the beautiful historical baths, and Lindos village for the Acropolis and ancient ruins.

What is the best time of year for a wedding in Rhodes?

June and September would be the best time since the weather is literally perfect, with just the right amount of sun.

What do couples need to know about planning a wedding in Rhodes?

No need to panic. Couples should see their wedding day as a trip to a beautiful island and not as a stressful event. The wedding will last only a few hours but the preparation starts way before. That’s why we recommend researching as early as you can and enjoy each step along the way. Since we are experts in what we do, couples can leave it up to us and peacefully enjoy their time on the island.

How far in advance should couples contact you to help them plan their dream wedding?

Start planning the event early. A year in advance would be ideal for smooth communication between us and the couple to plan everything in a timely manner.

Tell us some of the most romantic things to see & do in Rhodes? 

A nice evening stroll along the streets of the Old Town while observing the majestic castle and small boutique stores. And if people think Santorini has the best sunset that’s only because they haven’t seen the one in Monte Smith- simply sit on the bench and enjoy the breathtaking moment.

Insights Greece - Saying “I do” on Romantic Rhodes

What are some traditional delicacies/sweets from Rhodes that couples should think about including on the menu?

Greece is known for its Mediterranean cuisine, using pure and fresh ingredients such as olive oil, fresh spices, and seeds is a must. We recommend a platter with our traditional starters such as dolmadakia, pitaroudia which are basically little balls made of chickpeas and a variety of dips such as tzatziki and melitzanosalata (eggplant dip).

Melekouni would be our top favourite sweet option, which is a traditional Rhodian treat served at weddings and christenings. Made of sesame seeds and honey it’s known for its nutritional value.

What has been the most popular wedding theme over the last year?

Boho has by far been the most preferred. Couples tend to want more of a sophisticated and simple theme nowadays, which we have to admit is our favourite too.

What colours and decor do you love working with most? 

Natural and nude colours compliment the Greek islands most. Wooden, linen and cotton materials will always look stunning. While plants such as echeveria add that perfect final touch. 

Having planned over 200 weddings in Greece, tell us more about the services you offer?

There’s no limit to what we can achieve, as the client comes to us with a vision and we sculpt their idea using our expertise to turn it into a reality. We start from finding the perfect venue and church as well as the theme and aesthetic of the event according to the clients’ needs. We work alongside the best of the best photographers, caterers, florists, and other suppliers to offer a complete and unique wedding experience.

All images courtesy of White Events © (Copyright)  

 

Experiencing Santorini Like a Local

Santorini is one of the world’s most popular islands- known for its crisp white cliffside homes, romantic walkways, mesmerising sunsets and the world’s only inhabited Caldera.

Over the last few years (pre-COVID) Santorini played host to two million visitors and although this popular Cycladic island is filled with tourists, you can actually avoid the massive crowds and enjoy a more authentic experience when guided by a local. 

IN+SIGHTS GREECE spoke with hotel owner George Sigalas, who was born and raised in Santorini, and along with his siblings, George warmly welcomes thousands of guests each year to Above Blue Suites and Amber Light Villas.

Here he shares tips about his beloved island and also takes us through his beautiful hotels, which were built by his grandfather.  

What do you love most about your island home?

I really love a lot of things about our island- the fresh air, the sea, our enchanting Caldera but mainly the people- my family and friends. 

Insights Greece - Experiencing Santorini Like a Local

What makes your hotels stand out? 

There are many hotels with similar facilities but what makes ours unique is the personal touch and the love we have for our guests. Above Blue Suites consists of ten suites and one villa- offering a unique combination of privacy, luxury, unique interior design, and breathtaking views of the endless blue sea and the famous sunset. Amber Light Villas is curved in the mountain and provides comfortable villas opening up to private terraces and balconies with stunning views out to the Aegean Sea. We want everyone to have a unique experience that will create lasting memories. We do it with love, passion, and a smile because that’s how we feel.

What changes have you made to your hotels since you took over from your grandfather?

We have definitely given a lot of emphasis on the upgrade of our facilities and services, including the heating of the pool. We also expanded our menu to include gluten-free and vegan dishes. Of course, we try to improve day by day.

Where are your favourite places to eat out?

There are many good spots but I would recommend Kira Katina in Ammoudi for seafood, Agogi in Imerovigli for traditional delicacies, and also Metaxi Mas in Pyrgos, for the famous Rakomelo. For brunch head to TERA NERA in Perivolos as well Galini restaurant. The places for ice cream- Chill Box in Fira and Lolita’s Gelato in Oia.

Must-try local delicacies or dishes?

Santorini Fava, Tomatokeftedes, Santorini salad, and Fried White Eggplant. Also don’t leave the island without drinking a glass of Ouzo, while enjoying local seafood by the sea.

For a drink?

In Fira, you will find the famous Enigma and Mamounia bars, where you can enjoy a drink and music, as well as PK and Tango Bar.

Best places to swim?

The best beaches in Santorini are located in the southern part of the island and are none other than Perissa and Perivolos, which features black sand due to the volcanic eruption- definitely a unique experience.

Archeological must-see sites?

Akrotiri is definitely worth a visit. The settlement was one of the most important urban centres and ports of the Aegean during the Middle and Late Bronze Age. Also, for hiking lovers, I would unreservedly recommend a visit to Ancient Thira. It is an ancient city located at the top of Mesa Vouno, the city was founded in the 8th century BC. Access to the city is on foot, with stairs to the mountain slope.

What are some of the most authentic experiences you can have on the island?

Start with a visit to Kastelli village in Pyrgos and admire its wonderful view. Then head to the traditional village of Megalochori and try a Greek coffee from a traditional coffee maker. The architecture of the village in combination with the Greek aromas will make you sense the true heartbeat of the island. Akrotiri is also a beautiful village worth visiting. Entering the archeological site you will feel the aura of the settlement and its inhabitants who were so suddenly lost by the eruption of the volcano. There are many traditional taverns such as Delfinia that serve delicious Tomatokeftedes and other Greek delicacies.

To capture the spectacular sunset?

To enjoy the famous sunset you have to head to Imergovigli as it’s the highest point of the Caldera and the view here is magical.

Insights Greece - Experiencing Santorini Like a Local
Oia Sunset- Image by IN+SIGHTS GREECE © (Copyright)  

Top activities?

Hike from Fira to Oia. Being a local and having done this route many times, I can tell you that for a few minutes, you will feel as though you are walking in paradise. The view is magical and unique. I’m sure the experience will reward you. Also, a catamaran trip to the volcano and the hot springs is a must!

And you must visit one of the wineries on the island to taste local wines. Ideally, you should visit at least three wineries to browse the vineyards of the island and taste some of the most delicious and famous wines in the world.

Best places to shop?

Insights Greece - Experiencing Santorini Like a Local

In Fira, there are many boutique stores, and souvenir shops. In Oia, you will also find amazing galleries, jewellery shops, and concept stores. Also in Oia, you will find the leading Atlantis bookstore, which has been named one of the best in the world.

Must-see museums and monasteries? 

Any museums or monasteries that shouldn’t be missed? Definitely the prehistoric settlement in Akrotiri but also Ancient Thira in Kamari. In Fira, you will find the Archaeological and the Folklore Museum of Thira. Do not miss a visit to the Wine Museum of Mr. Koutsogiannopoulos, it’s amazing. Also, the Monastery of the Prophet Elias in Pyrgos is located at the top of the mountain and so you can admire its architecture as well as the panoramic view of Santorini from its highest point.

Buying a Flat in Metaxourgeio: the Pros & Cons

Having spent his childhood in Greece, Christopher Nicholas decided to buy a flat in Athens and describes the challenges and the joys.

By Christopher Nicholas

Buying a place in Athens was an easy decision to make. I went to school in a suburb of the city and have been returning ever since, always happy to reconnect with friends on my way to the islands. Most of all I love the ever-evolving array of the city’s cultural and culinary options, and its energy and chaos are the perfect antidotes to my quiet life in Geneva where I live, working for the Red Cross.

Why Metaxourgeio?

You may be wondering why I chose to create my Athens base in an area that could be described as a little sketchy. It’s artistic and edgy, with happening places, but definitely not one of the capital’s most attractive neighbourhoods.

In fact, it largely came down to budget and convenience. I wanted something central and properties in the historical centre or one of the trendier areas like Mets or Pangrati were not in my price range.

Discovering the Charms

However, I have become increasingly enchanted by my new neighbourhood. I’m discovering a community steeped in a rich and fascinating history. “Metaxi” means silk, and the area got its name from a silk factory built here in the 19th century, which put Metaxourgioon the map. It quickly became a bustling working-class community, home to artisans and small business owners, and suffered a severe decline in the 1970s. It’s had several stop-and-start waves of regeneration since and today the working-class spirit lives on, with old community favourites such as Gefstiki Gonia souvlaki place or Akrovatis kafeneion jostling side by side with alternative cafes, and artists’ studios in disused workshops.

I love the look and sounds emanating from the printing workshop downstairs and hope that the old manual 1960’s presses do not end up as accessories in a new hipster café. But if hipster is what you are after go to Platia Avdi with its sprinkling of achingly cool bars and eateries, like Seychelles and Blue Parrot. 

Flat-Hunting for Beginners

I first flirted with the idea of buying a place three years ago. I found the best way to get an idea of prices and neighbourhoods was the Spitogatos app, which meant I could shop around from the comfort of my sofa in Switzerland. While friends were swiping left and right in search of their perfect partner, I flicked through Spitogatos compulsively looking for my match. After visiting about a dozen places during short trips over, this one felt right immediately – it was bright and airy, on the top floor, with two bedrooms, a large terrace, on a quiet street and near the metro.

Sealing the Deal

With the seal of approval of two trusted friends, one of whom is an architect, I put in a cheeky offer. Initially, it was turned down. Then we struck a deal. However, the owner stuck close to his asking price. Six weeks later I was back in Athens for a 24-hour whirlwind tour of banks and tax offices. Eventually, with all paperwork duly stamped, I arrived at the solicitor’s office for the final exchange. Note: None of this would have been possible without my brilliant conveyancing lawyer, Alkis, who accompanied me every step of the way. Without him, I would have been lost, and it would have taken a year to do what we achieved in a day. 

Not Buying Out

Athens is bursting with wonderful shops, markets, and artisans and there really is no need to set foot in Ikea. I bought local and Greek wherever possible – a good quality bed from MediaStrom, a stylish made-to-order sofa from Fabrica, and curtains from the traditional fabric shops in Aiolou street. I also bought one or two quirky secondhand pieces from Reto, a social enterprise run by people recovering from substance abuse. And one day I hope to be able to splurge at MOFU, a gorgeous vintage design store, in Psyrri.

Always A Catch

People say that buying property in Greece can be complicated, but overall, the process went pretty smoothly. However, there was one small sting in the tail. Despite assurances from the estate agent to the contrary, it turned out that the “Doma” (room) on the roof above my flat was inhabited. Worse still, the tenant had put beds on the roof and was charging 5 Euro a night as a place to wash and rest!

Love Thy Neighbour?

During subsequent visits, I crossed tired workers/roof renters in the elevator and had to put up with noises like scraping furniture above, and wafts of late-night souvlaki dinners blowing down on to my terrace. I work in the humanitarian sector and initially let it go until I discovered that the rogue landlord was unduly profiteering. The actual landlord (of the  property above) sent him packing and the space is now rented to a more responsible tenant.

Happy End

Essentially, I have no regrets and am thrilled to be a homeowner in the city that I love. In this new era where working from home becomes the new norm, I’m hoping to spend more time here. In the long term, I see this as an investment – one that perhaps I can trade-in for a more idyllic spot by the sea when I come to retirement!

Insights Greece - Buying a Flat in Metaxourgeio: the Pros & ConsChristopher’s Top Tips:

  1. Make sure you have a good conveyancing lawyer.
  2. Support Greek Shops and suppliers!
  3. Don’t rush into things – take your time & use apps like Spitogatos & Chryssi Efkairia.
  4. Re-visit the property and take a careful look around before completing the sale.

Spotlight on Marathi, Chania’s Hidden Gem

If you’ve ever wondered where local families head to for a perfect day at the beach in Chania, it’s the same spot where you will find Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis and First Lady Mareva Grabowski Mitsotaki, who spend most of their summer weekends here.

Marathi is around a 17 km drive from the city of Chania and this gorgeous spot boasts two clear, sandy beaches that are separated by a charming little port. Both of these bays are organised, so you will find rows of umbrellas and sunbeds, which are filled with visitors who come here for all-day swimming, followed by a late lunch at one of the many cafes or restaurants along the coast- serving delicious local seafood and other well-known Cretan dishes.

Ioanna Filippakis, who along with her brother and parents own and run Marathi Villas and Psamathi Restaurant, recently spoke with IN+SIGHTS GREECE about the family business and why this spot in town is one of the island’s best-kept secrets.

When did Marathi Villas open?

The property has been in our family for over three generations. Initially, there was only a small house and an olive grove. Then we renovated the spaces (without disturbing their natural beauty) and created eight elegant villas, which now accommodate up to four people in each. By the water, a space that used to be the local “kafeneion” has now become a restaurant, offering visitors a range of Mediterranean flavours, including fresh fish and good Cretan wine.

Tell us about the style and décor of the villas.

The four villas, with uninterrupted sea views, have a purely minimalist feel. The other four overlooking the garden have attics and are decorated in a 1930s and 1960s style. We chose pastel shades because they blend in perfectly with the surrounding environment.

Your restaurant “Psamathi” is a favourite amongst locals, tell us about your menu. 

All the produce used in our restaurant is organic and locally sourced. The oil, honey, and wine are actually produced by our family. There is plenty on offer for brunch, lunch, and dinner. My favourite dish at the moment is Pasta served with Mediterranean squid and stuffed with Feta and olives. Our customers’ most loved breakfast is the Cretan specialty, which consists of Strapatsada (eggs with tomato and Feta), Yogurt with Walnuts and Honey, Sfakian pie, and Cretan Dakos.

Where do locals love to swim?

Very close by you will find a bay, known to a few, which is called “White Beach”. You can get to the bay by boat or by swimming. The sand is white and the waters are crystal blue. There are high cliffs, ideal for diving, and a small cave.

What makes Marathi an ideal spot to visit?

Marathi is a place where the natural landscape wins you over. Souda Bay which encloses the area does not allow the winds to get through, so the sea is always at peace. It’s always calm and looks like paradise. Marathi is ideal for rest and relaxation. Here it’s all about sunbathing and swimming. You can also enjoy walking along the adjacent bays and participating in water sports such as canoeing and pedal boating.

What history can be found here?

Marathi is built on Ancient Minoa at the Port of Aptera. Parts of Ancient Minoa, the jetty, and the ancient sanctuary are visible from here.

Insights Greece - Spotlight on Marathi, Chania’s Hidden Gem

What are the best months to visit?

The best months for holidays here are May, June, and October. The weather conditions during these months are such that the temperatures are at the best levels so you can enjoy a wonderful vacation without the crowds.

Tell us about Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis’ connection to Marathi.

The Mitsotakis family originates from Chania. Prime Minister Mitsotakis’ father the late Konstantinos Mitsotakis built a holiday house here because he loved the wonderful natural environment with views of the mountains and the Gulf of Souda. The Prime Minister spent his childhood here and has incredible memories of summer vacations in Marathi, which he has now continued with his own children. Former Foreign Minister Dora Bakoyannis Mitsotakis, sister of the PM, considers Marathi “a place of unsurpassed beauty.”  

Marathi Villas

Limeni: Discovering One of Mani’s Best Kept Secrets

The Greek Islands may be a vibrant oasis offering a cornucopia of pleasures, but we strongly suggest getting off the beaten path and heading to Mani — the central peninsula of the Peloponnese. Behold the marvel that is Limeni: Stone-built houses, turquoise waters, and colourful caiques (quintessential Greek postcard, anyone?) that are well worth the trip.

Preserved by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture, Limeni is a place where natural beauty, coastal vistas, and history combine. Located just minutes away from Areopolis and Gythio and in close driving proximity to Kalamata, this tiny traditional fisherman’s village is one of Mani’s best-kept secrets waiting to be explored.

What to See

Monastery Evretrias (Panagi H Vreti)

Insights Greece - Limeni: Discovering One of Mani’s Best Kept Secrets
Must visit destination

This catholic church built in the 18th century, dating back to 1731, belonged to the Mavromichali family. Overlooking the seaside with its iconic bell tower, it’s definitely worth a visit (and an Insta-post).

Paralia Dexameni —  Mani Water Sports

Adventure with a side of crystal clear waters? Whether it’s scuba diving into the big blue, paddleboarding, kayaking, windsurfing, or simply an intimate sunset cruise you crave, Mani Water Sports is a recreation centre right on the “beach” that will fulfill your adrenaline needs. Paralia Dexameni is more like a natural rock formation (like a natural swimming pool), so if you’re looking for a “proper” beach – you may have to drive further to Foneas, Alypa, or Gerolymenas.

Insights Greece - Limeni: Discovering One of Mani’s Best Kept Secrets
Charming alleyways

Just a 5km drive away is the village of Areopolis (in fact, Limeni is the seaport of Areopolis). This traditional village pervaded with stone-built houses has grown into a flourishing town filled with buzzing cafes, bars, and restaurants and if you’re lucky enough to be there on the weekend — a lively open-air market takes place in the main square every Saturday- you don’t want to miss it!

Where to Stay

Mavromichalai Hotel

Insights Greece - Limeni: Discovering One of Mani’s Best Kept Secrets
Rustic hotels

One of the most iconic places to visit and stay is at the Mavromichalai Hotel, built directly on the water’s edge. Now converted and restored into a luxury hotel, the Tower was the first residence of Limeni-raised Petrobey Mavromichalis, the last Bey (or ‘Prince’) of Mani and chief leader of the Maniots during the 1821 Greek War of Independence. Offering six exclusive rooms, all with unobstructed views of the picturesque bay and village of Limeni, visitors also have the opportunity to visit the tower and the tomb where the famous maniacal military leader is buried.

Pirgos Mavromichali

Luxury, history, and a private beach area with a sun terrace. Ah, where do we sign? Pirgos Mavromichali (or Tower Mavromichali) is a historically restored 18th-century stone tower, turned family-owned boutique hotel overlooking the Gulf of Messiniakos. The hotel provides practically everything you need for an enjoyable stay in Limeni, including an exclusive restaurant and bar overlooking the turquoise waters.

Where to Dine & Drink

O Takis

Prefer to live on the edge? Watch the fishing boats chug up and down the bay from your perch at taverna “O Takis”. Famed for its exquisite fresh seafood and its Insta-worthy sunset, “O Takis” is one of the best seafood restaurants in the Peloponnese. P.S. Ask for the Lobster Pasta, cooked with Takis’ “secret” recipe for two!

To Mavromichaleiko

If you’re craving Traditional Mani cuisine then “To Mavromichaleiko“ in Areopoli is your stop. Charming wooden tables and stone-built walls fill this family-owned taverna in Areopoli. We recommend their specialty: Hand-made pasta served with Maniatiko cheese, fresh farm eggs, and “siglino” (Mani salted pork). Trust us, you won’t leave unsatisfied.

Insights Greece - Limeni: Discovering One of Mani’s Best Kept Secrets
Delicious cuisine

Teloneio

This two-story stone building, located just above the water, houses one of Limeni’s fave cafes and restaurants – Teloneio. Whether you’re looking to enjoy your coffee where the water breaks, or a quality feed to see the sunset, you won’t be disappointed. We recommend the smoked sausage from Mani wrapped in grilled capsicums — delicious!

Bukka Bar

After the sun sets in Limeni, make your way to Bukka Bar in Areopolis. Adorned with a giant fuchsia bougainvillea wrapping the entrance of the stone building, Bukka Bar serves some of the best (and most original) cocktails you’ll sip. You can’t go wrong with ‘Grandma’s Choice’.

All images courtesy of Marina Bifsha © (Copyright)  

Culinary Journeys at Botrini’s Restaurant

As soon as you arrive at Botrini’s you feel you’ve reached somewhere special and your expectations are fanned.

The very friendly, knowledgeable, and attentive staff make you feel at home, although there is always a sense of being somewhere very elegant where you can’t completely let your guard down. With seven Michelin stars and a multitude of awards under his belt, restaurateur/ TV celebrity, and poet Ettore Botrini has created three tasting menus that each tells a story. Each story connects flavours, textures, philosophical concepts, cooking traditions, nostalgic memories, creative ideas, and even a fortune teller’s advice with often playful, beautifully presented dishes. It is a sort of theater of the palate and a wonderful place to visit with someone whom you can enjoy the journey with. After at least four ‘welcoming’ amuse bouche dishes come several entrees, the main course, a sorbet, and finally a light, refreshing dessert. Advice: Eat a light lunch on the day you visit!

Insights Greece - Culinary Journeys at Botrini’s Restaurant

Type of cuisine: Modern, Creative, Greek-Mediterranean

Type of eatery: Elegant, stylish, modern, with a large garden and large white rotundas.

The low down… Since it opened in 2014, the restaurant has received a Michelin Star seven times for its ambitious menu, professionalism, and ultra-creative high-end flavours.

Décor/ Ambience: Modern and designer, with strong elements of glass (like the façade of the kitchen, which one can see through upon entering the building) and wood. The garden area is spacious but hush-hush posh.

Entrees: We loved ‘Herring, A Journey Through Time’ the service of which starts with a smoked golden herring brought to the table as décor and ends with a glass of white mousse-like cream you dip through with an extra-long spoon to discover the herring and other ingredients from the bottom up. The Cheese Pie puff with cheese, sesame, and thyme honey was also a delight.

Insights Greece - Culinary Journeys at Botrini’s Restaurant

Mains: If you want to relish an explosion of citrus (Corfiot neratzosalata or bitter orange salad) artfully combined with Swordfish Carpaccio prepared in fishermen style from the Elba island. Also delicious was the Pasta Benedetto Cavalieri cooked like a risotto, in lemon water with sea urchin. Unfortunately, as a sea urchin fan, I couldn’t taste much of it, but the pasta was gratifyingly cooked to perfection as one would hope from a half-Italian chef, and with a zingy lemon punch.

Something to drink: Every dish in each elaborate menu is paired by the restaurant with a Greek or Italian wine chosen by the restaurant’s Sommelier.

Price range: There are three tasting menus created by Botrini, My Origins (70 € a head), Travelling (120 € a head) and Ploes (90 € a head).

FYI: Botrini also has an award-winning restaurant in his native Corfu.

Location: Vas. Georgiou B, 24 b, Halandri.

Opening hours/days: Tuesday- Saturday 20:00 – 24:00.

A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

Neo-tavernas have become a huge hit among both visitors and locals over the last decade because they provide authentic-style cuisine in a fresh, modern setting. Yet there’s an undeniable charm to the real, old, non-renovated Greek taverna that should be experienced at least once.

Many of the Greek tavernas listed here opened in the ‘20’s – the ‘50s, and it is much more than nostalgia that has kept them going, especially during a merciless financial crisis. Their charm, infused in the décor reflective of a bygone era, the owners, who have created dishes inspired by their culture for so many decades for so many hungry customers, are important factors. And then there’s the food itself, which may not be playful and innovative, culinarily-fluid or instantly Instgrammable, but it tastes pretty much the same as it did when it was first served up. 

Athinaikon

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Opened in 1932, this is the only place in this guide that is a little bit closer to a restaurant than a classic taverna, although its menu is comprised of classic traditional dishes. Bang in the heart of central Athens, it has been a favourite of famous Greek painters, politicians, and poets for its homey and unpretentious yet chic style.

Dishes To Try: The large variety of meze dishes and platters eaten with a glass of ouzo. Giant beans baked in tomato sauce (gigantes), bite-sized minty, fried meatballs (keftedakia), pan-melted cheese with pastrami (saganaki me pastourma and tart, salty) and marinated smoked mackerel (tsirosalata).

Location: Themistokleous 2 & Panepistimiou Sts

To Koutouki Tou Andoni

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: The cosy ambiance in this taverna, with a covered, tiled courtyard with a large fig tree, wine barrels, wooden tables with lion’s claws, and a vintage mosaic and stone walls hasn’t changed since it opened in 1958.

Dishes to Try: Fresh, fried small fish, calamari and cod, fava bean puree, wild greens, charcoal-grilled sausage, and meat patties (bifteki), as well as meze dishes with your house (hima) wine.

Location: Argyrokastrou 26, Palia Kokkinia, Metamorfosi

Taverna Tou Axoti

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Still standing proud after 60 years of operation, this family-run taverna makes you feel right at home. If you’re lucky you may be treated to a spontaneous live song performance by the owner’s grandsons.

Dishes to Try: Lamb chops, fried cod with garlic sauce (bakaliaros skordalia), fluffy meat patties, and hand-cut, freshly-fried potatoes.

Location: Paparseni 15, Polygono

Bakaliarakia Tou Damigou

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Considered one of Athen’s most antique tavernas, Damigos is said to have opened in 1864, when it specialised in cod. Today run by the fourth generation of proprietors, who have over time extended the menu. Numerous actors, writers, poets, and painters have traversed Damigos’ threshold over the century.

Dishes to Try: Definitely the cod, spicy anchovies (gavros), garlic sauce, and taramosalata.

Location: Kydathinaion 41, Plaka

Dioskouroi

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: More of a traditional meze-restaurant-kafeneion than taverna, this is a favourite for many (since 1975) because of its scenic view of the Ancient Agora in Plaka.

Dishes to Try: Take a break from touring to eat a Greek salad and a grilled meat platter accompanied by a cold beer.

Location: Dioskouron 13, Plaka

Diporto

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: By now somewhat famous for being so old, authentic, and traditional, Diporto is just a few minutes walk from the Central Athens Varvakeios Fish and Meat Markets. It is charming especially because it’s a basement that you enter by walking downstairs, as well as for its remaining, heavily traditional working class of the ‘50s décor; and the food is delicious too.

Dishes to Try: The house retsina wine, oil-cooked pulses (ladera), traditional slow-cooked stews (mageirefta) and small fried fish.

Location: Sokratous 9 St & Theatrou Square, Psyrri

To Eidikon

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed
Image Courtesy of Culinary Backstreet

History & Style: This only remaining – since 1920, when it started off as a food store, as its décor reveals – old style-deli tavernas in Piraeus is located behind the tobacco factories at the central port. It was a favourite hangout of Greek Rembetika musicians Kazantzidis, Tsitsanis, and Papaioannou.

Dishes to Try: Sausage, the taverna’s well-known corned-beef omelette, fava, keftedes, sardines, and a side of juicy tomatoes, olives and good quality Greek gruyere cheese.

Location: Psarron 38 & Salaminos, Piraeus

Koutouki Tis Harikleas

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Located in an old refugee building, this place looks more like an antique store than a taverna. Old radios, sewing machines, cooking utensils, photographs, and wine barrels make up the surprising décor.

Dishes to Try: Lamb chops, fried pork, melted cheese, and great salads.

Location: Artis 29, Metamorfosi

Katsarina

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: In the leafy northern suburb of Kifissia, this early 19th Century taverna has hardly changed its menu since it opened in 1893, making it a beloved old classic. In summer enjoy sitting out in the garden.

Dishes to Try: This place is for meat-lovers and is known for its steaks, as well as some home-cooked stews and oil-based (ladera) dishes.

Location: Kifissias Avenue 311, Kifissia

Karavitis

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: This legendary taverna in Proskopos Square opened in 1920 and has a devout local as well as a tourist fan base. Its large wooden wine barrels and cosy ambiance are its most noteworthy characteristic feature.

Dishes to Try: Their famous meat patties, either plain or stuffed with cheese, crispy lamb chops, and traditional side dishes.

Location: Arktinou & Pafsaniou 4, Pangrati

Klimataria

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Originally a kafeneion next to the temple of St John, since 1927 this wine tavern offers customers both a real sense of old Athens and tasty dishes.

Dishes to Try: Lamb with potatoes slow-cooked with garlic in a ceramic pot, onion pie, melted cheese, tomato-stewed rooster with mashed potatoes, and good house wine.

Location: Theatrou Square 2, Psyrri

Marathoniti

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed
Image courtesy of This Is Athens

History & Style: Since the 1970s this basement-level family-run taverna with an old mosaic-tile floor has lured many a diner, especially with its wine and meze dishes. All even better when accompanied by rembetika music.

Dishes to Try: Oven-baked beans (gigantes), sausage, lamb chops, wine meze dishes, and steaks.

Location: Ymittou 253 & Vinkelman 3, Mets

Metaxou

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Over half a century old, this wine tavern has retained the vibe of Athens’ bygone era when friends gathered to feast on simple yet authentic and delicious food.

Dishes to Try: Meat stew with orzo (yiouvetsi), shrimp pasta, and chicken cooked in tomato sauce.

Location: Pythodorou 10, Metaxourgeio

Mister Loukidelis

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Nea Filadelfia’s most well-known taverna opened in 1932 and is now managed by the third generation of proprietors.

Dishes to Try: If it’s your kind of thing, try the famous Loukideli’s testicles” (ameletita) meze. Also try the cheese pie, fried cod, fava puree, and snails.

Location: Georgiou apandreou 79, Nea Filadelfia

Peinaleon

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Old mirrors from 1919, wall paintings, antiques, and old photographs create a nostalgic and singular ambiance here.

Dishes to Try: Roasted mastelo cheese from Chios, coal-fire smoked aubergine dip (melitzanosalata), pork cooked with mastic, fluffy croquettes with wild greens and herbs and pork with hand-cut fresh fried potatoes.

Location: Mavromichali 152, Exarcheia

Roumeli

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: Since 1930 when it opened, this taverna has changed its appearance several times, but the food has remained deeply gratifying.

Dishes to Try: Well-grilled, good-quality meats like lamb chops, steak, liver, and meat patties with fresh, hand-cut fries, as well as home-cooked stews. In winter warm-up with the meat soup.

Location: Konstandinoupoleos 34 & Proussis, Vyronas, Nea Smyrni 

Vardis

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: An authentic, traditional taverna that opened in 1922, signs of which you can see around the tavern- an old set of scales, wooden plate rack, and ceramic bowls. Through the glass floor, you can see the old wine barrels in the basement. Some days you can enjoy live Greek music performances.

Dishes to Try: Fried meatballs, goat, fried cod, and fava puree.

Location Kaisarias 9, Ymittou Square

O Vathis

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: With a large, lovely garden, this 1974 taverna has a warm, family feeling both because of its friendly service and cosy ambiance.

Dishes to Try: Grilled bread with olive oil and oregano right from the start. Cabbage-wrapped meat dolmades, lamb chops, a big choice of tasty home-cooked stews and ladera dishes, fava puree, melitzanosalata and fried courgettes.

Location: Kyrou 7, Kifissia

Vourliotina

Insights Greece - A-Z MINIGUIDE: Athens’ Authentic Old Tavernas You Never Knew Existed

History & Style: A taverna that used to be the home of Yiayia (granny) Triandafyllia and has kept elements of her life, who was from Smyrna.

Dishes to Try: Unsurprisingly, the cuisine here is also influenced by Asia Minor and includes dishes like tabbouleh, pastrami pie, egg and cheese terrine, homemade liqueur and kazan dipi dessert.

Location: Vas. Alexandrou 10 & Ymittou

Main image: Karavitis 

The Effortless Joy of Electric Cycling Through the Capital

Solebike Tours organize electric bicycle excursions throughout the day – and year – and you don’t need to be super-fit to enjoy them!

Ah, la luna, la luna…the night that I sped under the spell of the moon. In Athens, the August full moon is the one night of the year when the city’s ancient sites are open to the public after sundown. I hopped on my Solebike electric bike and off we travelled through the city’s most beautiful spots, in the silvery light of the moon.

Easy, Breezy, Fascinating!

Insights Greece - The Effortless Joy of Electric Cycling Through the Capital

Solebike, created by cycling-enthusiasts/tourism experts Costas and Sofia has been successfully running city tours for people of every age (baby and child seats are both available and safe) for several years now. Daytime tours include wearing an earpiece through which you can follow a fascinating guided tour by Costas, Sophia, or Dimitra as you cycle. Electric bicycles are so easy to ride, all you need to do is pedal a little and zoom! Off you go, whether you’re on flat ground or up-hills. As for downhills – and believe me, we had some steep ones on my night trip – just gripping both brakes gently assures a smooth, easy experience.

The greatest thing about electric bicycle tours such as the ones so skillfully organized by Solebike is that regardless of traffic – by cars or people – you can easily and speedily navigate through the city. Vastly appealing to both foreign visitors and Greeks (indeed on my tour is was an all-Greek group), the tours are fun and always have something interesting to teach. Except for stopping at various points of interest, you get to observe life, architecture, nature, and often unknown side streets or other areas you wouldn’t normally walk through in the city.

The Moonlight Tour

Insights Greece - The Effortless Joy of Electric Cycling Through the Capital

On my tour, we started at the dinky Solebike Tours HQ in Makriyanni, near the Acropolis Metro station, where we registered and were offered complimentary water, helmet, and instructions. The first stop was the ancient and deeply historical area of Filopappou, where we walked to the same-named Roman monument from where we took in heady panoramic views of the city, sprawling glitteringly all the way down to the deep blue coast on one side. On the other was the gold-lit Acropolis, admired by families and friends who sat around in groups, and lovers concealed behind olive trees on ancient benches.

Next, we whizzed through the very lively Plaka neighbourhood, with its old tavernas, neoclassical buildings, seductive smells of delicious Greek foods, and buzzy crowds of revellers, many of them out to soak up the full moon’s light like us. After that, we cycled to the all-marble Panathenaic Stadium where the Modern Olympic Games were organized in 1896, but we got to see it both from the ground level and a ‘secret’ angle that Costas took us to from high above on Ardittou Hill. Finally, we visited the Zappeion Megaro next to the National Gardens, before parking our bikes back at the shop and enjoying a refreshing complimentary glass of wine and happy chat at Wine O’Clock bar on Vrassidas St.

Something for Everyone

This was just one of many creative, educational, and fully enjoyable tours that Solebike offers. They also organize cycling visits that include food and/or wine stops, seaside routes, and soon they are hoping to launch excursions to nearby Saronic islands like Aegina, where there are a whole different variety of pleasures to discover – food, sea, ancient sites and varying nature.

Solebike are out-of-the-box thinkers and even include a Sea Turtle Rescue Tour, while they are always coming up with new ideas of how to make the best of the developing Athens Walkway, the cycling paths on the southern coast, nearby locations and creative/pleasurable pursuits. They also organise private tours.

The Most Romantic Spots in Athens

Even with social distancing, nothing can quell romantic notions if you and your amour are in Athens.  

There are several go-to places in the city that can push your romance up a few notches and it would be foolish to not make the most of them! Here are some of our favourite spots in the Greek capital to visit with our other half! 

Head for the Hills

Grab a chilled bottle of prosecco from the fridge and walk up Lycabettus hill at sunset, seeing a panoramic vista of the city’s lights twinkling on at glowtime. Other scenic spots for a scenic al fresco drink are Philopappou or Pnyx hills, where you can sit on a rock or lay down a blanket and soak up the ancient vibes and awesome views of the Parthenon seemingly side by side with Lycabettus hill. Finally, get away from the urban throng and summer heat in the shady, verdant National Gardens (closes at sunset); enjoy walking amongst tree and plant species from around the world and spotting exotic birds like parrots, peacocks and black swans.

Islandesque Romance 

Take a stroll through Anafiotika, an island-like ‘village’ neighbourhood built by locals of Anafi in the foothills of the Acropolis. The pretty mini gardens and whitewashed houses, narrow cobblestone lanes and sweeping city views are all delightfully romantic. Start in the morning with an early stroll here while it’s still cooler and then head to Makryianni neighbourhood below for a coffee at Little Tree Cafe, Lotte Cafe or Drips and Drupes charcuterie where you can enjoy a midday prosecco or a healthy juice and a cold cuts platter a deux.

Foodie Turn Ons

Share a refined, delicious meal in a buzzy restaurant like Asian-Greek Nolan in Syntagma, meze-garden Ama Lachei in Exarcheia, Seychelles in Metaxourgeio or Nice N Easy in Kolonaki. If you prefer romance by the sea, visit the magical Temple of Poseidon in Sounio (around an hour from Athens by car or KTEL bus), have a cooling dip and then admire the temple lit up in gold light as you sit for dinner by the lapping waves at one of the tavernas below.

Hold Hands in the Dark

Munch on popcorn, sip iced drinks and venture to other worlds together watching a movie at one of Athens’ refreshing open-air cinemas. Some of the best and most classic (and still open despite Covid) are Cine Thisseion (one of the city’s oldest, where unlike anywhere else the bar snacks include bottarga from Mesolonghi, homemade cheese-pie and cherry liqueur) and Vox in Exarcheia.