Throughout the month of May, Greece’s largest food festival will have its doors open in the cool neighbourhood of Gazi, as talented chefs prepare to serve visitors some of the most popular Greek “street food” and other enticing recipes from around the world.
On the 6-7-8, 13-14-15, 20-21-22, as well as the 27-28-29th of May, the 5th edition of the Athens Food Festival will take place at one of Athens’ old depot stations, with the entire space being filled with stalls offering a range of casual international cuisine.
Having hosted over 400,000 visitors so far (prior to the pandemic) the Athens Street Food Festival has become one of the most anticipated cultural events in the Greek capital. This year organisers are expecting thousands more local and international visitors to attend- as they will once again be able to experience a great range of flavours and flair from all corners of the globe- including those of Mexico, Japan, France, Italy, Vietnam, the U.S, and needless to say, Greece!
There will be plenty of traditional Greek street food to try- such as the country’s much-loved souvlaki, spanakopita and loukoumades- plus international favourites like burgers, mac and cheese, tacos, hotdogs, and gelato. The Festival will also be showcasing new food trends that have become popular over the past year.
If you are a foodie who happens to be in Athens during the month of May, do yourself a favour and head over to the old depot station in Gazi, which will be filled with plenty of food, drinks, music and a great vibe!
More details on the programme of the Festival will be announced shortly, so keep an eye out.
Everyone knows a good book requires a warm cup of tea or coffee. Yes, you can get this at home but there’s something special about a good bookstore café where you can pick up a pastry and a warm beverage before diving into the latest chapter of your favourite genre. So we’ve compiled a list of the best bookstore cafes in Athens, for those who can’t get enough of those good, old fashioned books!
Little Tree Books & Coffee
Located just around the corner from the Acropolis Museum,Little Tree is the ideal place to relax and read your book while enjoying a fragrant cup of coffee or tea, and a light homemade snack. The food here is prepared using a variety of fresh local ingredients and the desserts are simply delicious. Apart from its cozy atmosphere and nice snacks, Little Tree is also stocked with interesting books of all sorts and holds an exceptional selection of children’s books.
A: 2 Kavalotti, Makrygianni
Booktalks
Located in Palaio Faliro, Booktalks is the creation of two bibliophile bloggers who came together in order to combine books and coffee, their simple everyday pleasure. Stop by to relax, read, enjoy a hot cup of coffee and savour its treats. Don’t miss the various book presentations and literary events that are held at Booktalks.
Located in the northern suburb of Kifissia, Evripidis, one of the oldest bookshops in Athens, is a meeting point for fruitful discussions with a cup of coffee. Evripidis first opened its doors in 1955, and now covering four floors, it attracts bibliophiles from all over town. Its large collection of Greek and foreign language books, as well as a wide variety of children’s books and its inviting coffee shop, are the reason why. It also features a small stationery shop adjacent, where brands such as Mont Blanc, Moleskine, Clairfontaine, and Waterman are found.
A: 310 Leoforos, Kifissias
Lemoni
At Lemoni you can find an excellent selection of specialised books on art, Japanese poetry, and mythology, postcards, Moleskines and table books, while enjoying your coffee. If the day is warm, head to the backyard garden, take a seat and sink into your book, without being interrupted.
A: 22 Iraklidon, Athens
Free Thinking Zone
A warm place where you can share ideas, read a book and enjoy a coffee. The bookstore hosts permanent and periodic book collections and is the perfect spot to meet new people and take part in a discussion while having a coffee. Various events, including cultural, political and social, take place on the premises.
One of Athens’ most striking buildings is the neoclassical Zappeion Hall, the first building in the world constructed in honour of the modern Olympic Games.
Zappeion Hall
Designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen and completed in 1888, its construction was funded by the national benefactor, Evangelos Zappas. Since its opening, Zappeion has been linked with numerous significant moments in Greece’s history. In the past few years, some of the country’s most significant events have taken place here- including European summits, political conferences, as well as art exhibitions, fashion shows and other artistic and musical performances.
Located in the centre of Athens, the Zappeion Hall is surrounded by the Greek Parliament building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Right next to it is the National Gardens and, opposite, on the side of the Ardittos Hill, the Panathenaic Stadium; Hadrian’s Arch and the ancient Temple of the Olympian Zeus.
The surrounding area of Zappeion is adorned with a multitude of statues, reflecting upon Greece’s modern history and at the main entrance are the statues of the two Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building; as well as a charming park, where locals go for a walk. Across Zappeion Hall there is Aigli, a nice café serving homemade pizza and club sandwiches as well as Aperol Spritz, salads and wines. Right next door is an open-air movie theatre of the same name, which is also loved by Athenians – especially during summer.
Built in 1888 to honour the Modern Olympic Games
When visiting also make sure to check out the archaeological site of the Roman Baths built at the end of the 3rd century AD- they are located within the Zappeion grounds on Vassilissis Amalias Avenue. The site was discovered during excavations for the construction of the Athens Metro and has been made accessible to the public since 2004.
Zappeion’s gardens are surrounded by the streets Irodou Attikou, Vasileos Konstantinou, Vasilissis Olgas, and Vasilissis Amalias and the National Gardens feature charming lawns, atriums, patios, flower beds and charming orange trees that are also lovely to see.
The restaurant scene of Athens has been exciting and alluring for several decades and following a few years of lockdown has now become even more so. Here we present you with some of the most talked-about new arrivals in the capital’s dining scene.
CTC
Alexandros Tsiotini’s innovative culinary concept has moved from the greater Hilton area and Dioharous Street to the spot where Athiri restaurant used to be. His new space is more impressive and with a lovely garden. As for the cuisine, it follows the chef’s vision with a stronger element of Greekness and a special emphasis on raw materials.
A: Plateon 15, Athens
Linou Soubaris & Sia
One of the newest hits of the Athenian culinary scene, this restaurant has already become a hit for combining a minimalist décor, candle-lit dining area in Psirri with cuisine that is delightfully simple yet extremely delicious.
A: Melanthiou 2, Athens
Soil
One of the most heard-about openings of last autumn was Soil, a fine dining restaurant created by Tasos Mantis (known from his Michelin-star awarded work at Hytra restaurant) and Alexandros Mouridis. Located in a vibrant part of Pagrati near the Panathenaic Stadium, chef Mantis’ famous garden in Alepochori fully inspires the restaurant’s dishes.
A: Ferekidou 5, Athina
Brutus Tavern
This new venture by the team of Yannis Morakis, Giorgos Melissaris and Giorgos Kanellopoulos is based in the space that used to house the old Nikkei restaurant. It’s a premium steakhouse with an expertly designed wine list by sommelier Michalis Theodorakis. The cuts definitely have the upper hand but be sure to try the burgers with dry-aged minced meat, Red Leicester cheddar and caramelized onions as well as the Royal Chicken with truffle and Albufera sauce.
A: Leventi 3, Kolonaki
Loco
From the first day it opened, this cool taqueria by Lelo Georgopoulos, Athenagoras Kostakos and the team of Kuko’s went viral and not only because of its catchy name. In these colourful and fun interiors or at one of the tables on the sidewalk, try its well-made, Mexico-inspired cocktails, tacos, mouth-watering sea bream ceviche with hot yellow pepper sauce and a beef tartare with hot pepper sauce.
A: Kalamiotou 15, Athens
Kitschen
One of the most unexpected, tastebud-tickling and feel-good arrivals of last autumn was this Asian restaurant/dim sum bar in Piraeus, in one of its most underdeveloped areas. A breath away from the commercial centre of the port and on a street you probably wouldn’t expect to visit, Kitschen has been set up by Dimitris Liem (with stints at Matsuhisa, Momo and e&o among others) and Spyros Mineto (9Beta). The former has taken over the kitchen, with his deep expertise and a focus on top quality raw materials and high flavour; the latter has set up a drinks section with scrumptious signature cocktails such as Chino Latino, Samurai’s Sling and Cobra Kai.
A: Kanari 5, Piraeus
The Black Salami Microbakery
Foodie Instagrammers know this is currently one of the hottest spots in Athens. It’s not quite a restaurant, but we felt it important to include it in this list. It is described as a micro-bakery (due to limited bread production) and presents one of the most delectable brunch options (top of the line are the Eggs Benedict and Greek kayanas scrambled eggs) as well as great sandwiches with fluffy breads.
A: Zoodochou Pigis 71, Athens
Mimis
Part of a dining triptych, this ‘neo-traditional’ souvlaki restaurant in Pagrati opened during a lockdown last March. Mimis is the latest venture of Elvi Dimitris Zympas, who also runs the excellent Alficon and Elvis kalamaki bar, in a new experiment with something he really loves.
A: Efranoros 10, Pagrati
Bistrot at Mira Me Athens
With a philosophy of ‘come as a guest, leave as a friend’ this new, ground-floor restaurant is run by executive chef Aris Roussos, who presents his own take on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, with some Asian twists.
A: Mira Me Athens Hotel | Ermou 118, Athens
Drakoulis Dry & Raw
The luxury steakhouse returns to the capital’s gastronomic scene with a new venue in Kifissia. Its ambition is to become the hottest new ‘meating’ point in the northern suburbs. Stratos Drakoulis puts his signature on the varied menu of this place, which opened very recently.
A: Pentelis 1, Kifisia
Hasapika
Why did it take so long to think of this? Hasapika is a sushi restaurant inside the Varvakeio fish market on Athinas St. Try the Nigiri, sashimi, rolls and Greek-style fish soup, in an environment that could easily have sprung from an Anthony Bourdain show.
A: Central Market | Aristogitonos 1, Athens
Coming soon:
Delta
Thanos Feskos returned to Greece exactly a year ago after 12 years abroad and a highly successful career in leading restaurants, mainly working as Assistant Head Chef at the famous Geranium in Copenhagen – which he claims changed his whole worldview on food. This summer he will be opening Delta Restaurant, which will centre around contemporary Greek cuisine of high gastronomy at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC).
The Municipality of Alimos is moving forward with a 100 million euro project that is set to give not only Athens but the entire Attica a new glamourous destination that can be enjoyed by locals and international visitors – once the upgrade of Alimos Marina is completed in 2025.
Alimos Marina is currently the largest marina in Greece and the Balkans and one of the most popular marinas in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. It also happens to be the main base for yacht chartering in Athens and features 1100 permanent berths- while accommodating up to 600 boats in winter.
Alimos, Greece’s largest marina
In collaboration with Aktor Concessions, Greek company REDS won the bid of undertaking the renovation of Alimos Marina for 40 years. It has been appointed to develop the project towards its total refurbishment and manage it for the whole concession period.
“The Marina’s refurbishment will bring it to the latest international standards, enrich it with additional uses and establish it as a leisure destination for tourists and locals alike,” announced REDS.
Last week the company presented its plans to the Municipal Council of Alimos showing both the design of the new marina and discussing the architectural study behind it.
According to the new plans, there will be a range of shops and restaurants, hotel, pier, pedestrian and bicycle path, planting and increase of greenery (thus improving the microclimate of the city), tower management and control of the marina, parking of 850 yachts (with increasing perspective), construction vertical to Poseidon and descents with plantations that will “connect” the city with the marina.
The Marina by night
The new marina will also acquire a cultural footprint, as it will house the Municipal Gallery, showcasing rich works of the 20th century.
“It is a pioneering project, friendly to the city, a marina open to the citizens, modern and beautiful, which will bring multiple benefits”, said the Mayor of Alimos, Andreas Kondylis to APE-MPE.
“There will be a stimulation of the local market and at the same time, Alimos will enter the tourist map. It will become the main attraction, not only for our citizens but also for visitors. But beyond that, the Municipality will now be able to gain revenue from the marina,” says Kondylis.
Regarding the schedule, the Mayor announced that the consultations and licensing will be completed by the end of 2022, at the beginning of 2023 works will commence and are expected to be completed in 2025.
Raise a glass, the World’s 50 Best Bars for 2021 have just been announced with Athens’ “The Clumsies” taking 4th place and “Baba au Rum” named 14th best venue on the highly coveted list!
The 2021 edition of the annual ranking features bars from 17 countries, with the top five bars in the world revealed to be London’s Connaught Bar followed by Tayēr + Elementary in London, Paradiso in Barcelona, The Clumsies in Athens, and Floreria Atlantico in Buenos Aires.
Award-winning The Clumsies
“Another year running! We’re so happy to announce that the Clumsies family has been voted number 4 among the world’s best 50 bars. Thank you to all for this great honour. We’ll keep doing what we do best, blending the number four bar experience in the world. Congratulations to all the winners. It’s been an honour sharing with you this experience!” announced the Clumsies team.
Located right in the heart of Athens, “Part of The Clumsies’ undeniable charm is the ease with which it can do so many things so well. It’s just as comfortable as a spot for a morning coffee and breakfast as a place in the evening to drink some of the most inventive cocktails that can be found anywhere, or for dancing on the bar at 2 am,” announced the judges.
“This is thanks to co-owners Vasilis Kyritsis and Nikos Bakoulis’ commitment to hospitality. They’ve managed to create a space as impressive to the international bartending community as it is homely to locals, and this approach has made The Clumsies a stalwart of the 50 Best list,” they added.
Baba Au Rum
Βaba Au Rum is a leading multi awarded Rum & Cocktail bar in downtown Athens, with judges announcing, “Baba au Rum brought a revolutionary admiration of cocktails to the Greek capital when it opened 13 years ago, and to this day it remains the bar in Athens’ now thriving hospitality scene, held in the highest regard,” said the judges.
“Its power comes from owner and manager Thanos Prunarus, a man who straddles the old school and modernity. Here, things aren’t overhauled but instead attentively developed, moving with the times while maintaining warmth and familiarity.”
Hundreds of exciting Christmas events are taking place throughout 52 locations in the Greek Capital, giving locals and visitors the chance to celebrate the festive season with a huge program that’s been designed by the Athens Municipality.
Taking place between December 7, 2021, and January 13, 2022, the Christmas and New Year program involves more than 120 activities for people of all ages, including 25 music and theatre performances, as well as seven open-air film screenings.
“This Christmas, Athens will be celebrating each day, with special events created to make people of all ages smile. Due to the challenges faced by the prolonged pandemic, the municipality of Athens has responded with music, theatre, and Christmas surprises for everyone,” announced Athens Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis.
Kotzia Square
Ice Skating Rink
Among the highlights is the opening of the biggest ice skating rink in Athens. Located in Kotzia Square (opposite City Hall) and covering 400 square metres, it’s set to open on December 10. Admission to the rink is free but visitors are required to book via this link here.
There will also be six Christmas “villages” set up in various neighbourhoods, including the suburbs of Acharnes, Kypseli, Pangrati and Goudi, where there will be a range of arts, crafts and hand painting taking place; as well as Santa and his elves, plus other activities and spectacles (including stilt walkers, jugglers, puppets, animateurs, magicians) bringing joy to the streets of Athens.
Athens Centre
Festivities in the Greek Capital
Commencing on December 11, the city’s museums, libraries, galleries, art centres and other venues will also host various workshops for art, narration, theatre games and dance, children’s pantomimes, puppet shows, tours and much more.
The events will also include seven popular Christmas films selected by the Athens Open Air Film Festival and Premiere Nights, that will be screened outdoors in seven different locations in the city between December 17 to 30.
Work has commenced on the latest extension to the Athens underground train line, in a project set to make getting around the Greek capital a whole lot easier for locals and visitors; while also reshaping Athens’ real estate market.
Transport Minister Kostas Karamanlis said in a tweet that work has commenced on Line 4, which will add 15 stations to the underground train network, serving some of the city’s most densely populated areas.
The extension to the Athens metro took 15 years to prepare, held back by the country’s decade-long economic crisis and legal disputes. Originally built in 2000, the subway currently has three existing lines, providing 64 stations across the city, and is considered to be one of the cleanest and safest in the world.
Line 4 will snake through the northern suburbs to the city centre and then extend eastward in a U-type shape.
The new stations to be added from line 4 are: Alsos Veikou, Galatsi, Elikonos, Kypseli, Courts (Dikastiria), Alexandras Av., Exarchia, Akadimia, Kolonaki, Evangelismos, Kessariani, Panepistimioupoli, Zografou, Ilissia and Goudi.
Separately, Greek authorities are also planning to add more stations to the Athens metro in the western suburbs.
The MICHELIN Guide Athens 2021 has just been revealed, and two new restaurants in the Greek capital were awarded with one Michelin Star, while others received high distinction in various categories.
“Hospitality is an intrinsic part of Greek culture and our recommended restaurants in Athens show that it is as warm and sincere as ever. Local ingredients and, even more so, local wines have come to the fore in recent years, and it is great for visitors to feel part of the local community. Athens has restaurants for all occasions and they truly reflect all that is best about this amazing city,” announced Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides.
First new entry to the 2021 MICHELIN Guide with a One Star edition is Pelagos Restaurant, run by Head Chef Luca Piscazzi, who formerly led the team at Two Michelin-starred La Dame de Pic in London. “This stylish, understated restaurant is set within the Astir Palace Hotel, on the Vouliagmeni Peninsula, and boasts stunning sea views. Seafood-based cooking blends refined French techniques with prime Mediterranean ingredients and is characterised by creativity, sophistication and bold yet harmonious flavours,” says the MICHELIN Guide team.
Pelagos, a fine dining restaurant
Located at FS Astir Palace
The other newly awarded One Star restaurant CTC was in fact added to the MICHELIN Guide five years ago and has recently moved to a new location. “Experienced chef-owner Alexandros Tsiotinis leads guests on an 11 course ‘Voyage’ which takes in Greece’s culinary history and blends bold flavours with subtle innovation and originality. His enthusiastic serving team also help to create a charming and truly memorable all-round experience,” they added.
Retaining their Stars for yet another year are Spondi (Two Michelin Stars) and Botrini’s, Hytra and Varoulko Seaside; all One Michelin Star.
Two restaurants – Nolan and Oikeîo – retain their Michelin Bib Gourmand for 2021. Joining them is Cerdo Negro 1985, a new addition to the guide; this is a small taverna, run by brothers Konstantinos and Yiorgos who have combined their Greek heritage with a passion for Spanish cuisine.
CTC restaurant
“11 Course Voyage” at CTC
Five Restaurants Added to the Main Section
– Aleria “sits within a carefully restored mid-19 Century former residence and the jewel in its crown is its lovely walled garden. Classic Greek ingredients are showcased in interesting, colourful combinations.” – At Le Pavillon, “the chef-owner welcomes every diner personally. Seafood-focused cooking respects classic techniques but flavours are more delicate than the typical bold Mediterranean style.” – Okio “has a cool atmosphere and a laid-back vibe. Touches of originality are added to traditional Mediterranean recipes to create vibrant dishes with some bold Asian flavours.” – Splendid art deco Athénée “has been lovingly restored by a family team and is once again a place to be seen. It opens all day and serves something for everyone, from Greek classics to sushi and afternoon tea.” – Annie Fine Cooking “is a homely, colourfully decorated neighbourhood restaurant which spills out into the tree-lined street. Cooking celebrates the country’s produce, with natural flavours and a distinct balance of sweet and sour shining through.”
The MICHELIN Guides are a series of guide books that have been published by the French tyre company Michelin since 1904. The Guide awards up to three Michelin stars for excellence to a select few establishments.
Athens took home the award for Best International Airport 2021 in the ’25-40 million passengers’ category at the annual Best Airport Awards held by ACI Europe.
Winners were announced at a Conference Dinner of the 31st ACI EUROPE Annual Congress and General Assembly, which took place in Geneva, Switzerland.
The Best Airport Awards recognise excellence and outstanding achievement across the entire portfolio of airport activities. This year’s 17thedition of the celebrated accolades focused on the many ways in which airports are not only responding but innovating during the COVID-19 pandemic while focusing on the airport industry’s sustainability goals.
Athens’ ‘Eleftherios Venizelos’ International Airport
“The busiest airport in Greece won the judges over by producing a plan for recovery that focuses on improving customer and passenger experience through the implementation of the Greek concept of ‘philoxenia’ or hospitality,” announced ACI Europe.
The judges particularly liked the way Athens Airport embraces AI and virtual reality (such as measuring passengers’ emotional engagement, offering a virtual assistant and a 3D virtual airport tour) in its bid to bring passenger experience to the next level.
The judging panel also highlighted the airport’s continued carbon management prowess, with ‘Airport Carbon Accreditation’ Level 3+ upheld in spite of the ongoing crisis. Furthermore, Athens Airport is not only committed to achieving Net Zero CO2 emissions by 2025 but also to achieve UN Sustainable Development Goals. In particular, the airport’s efforts to increase the use of renewable energy at the airport was praised.
The judging panel comprised representatives from the European Commission, EUROCONTROL, SESAR Joint Undertaking, International Transport Forum and ECAC. Eco-Innovation Award submissions were held to scrutiny by the Advisory Board of ‘Airport Carbon Accreditation’, and the Accessible Airport winner was identified with the help of the European Disability Forum.
Winners in All Categories
Under 5 million Passengers
Romania’s Cluj Avram Iancu International Airport.
Toulon-Hyères Airport was highly commended in this category.
5-10 Million Passengers
Falcone Borsellino Palermo Airport.
Milan Linate Airport was highly commended in this category.
10-25 Million Passengers
Vnukovo International Airport.
Porto Airport was highly commended in this category.
25-40 Million Passengers
Athens International Airport.
Lisbon Airport was highly commended in this category.
Over 40 Million Passengers
iGA Istanbul Grand Airport.
Barcelona and Madrid Airports were highly commended for this Award.
We visited Prasini Tenta, the spectacularly scenic, born-again hangout on Lycabettus Hill that has now turned into a restaurant/café/bar that locals and tourists alike love.
As Athens’ tallest hill (277m high), Lycabettus and the white church of St George that crowns it, Greek flag a-flapping at its edge, is one of the capital’s most noticeable landmarks. Throughout the year, streams of tourists and visitors hike, jog and dog-walk up the verdant hill to enjoy nature and dazzling views, but now you can soak up the vistas while relaxing at Prasini Tenta with a drink or bite.
Today’s trendy Prasini Tenta is the reborn version of a same-named, historical ouzeri in the same spot that existed since the late 1930s and was a popular hangout for students, poets, politicians, and lovers. Due to the ten-year hardship of Greece’s financial crisis, the scenic hangout was shut down in 2003, so 18 years later its return is very happy news for regulars and newcomers alike. Although some residents are disgruntled by the way the newer, more chichi place has been built – using cement, and lots of it – romantics are drawn in particularly by the spanning views of the city, the Acropolis and the sea in the distance.
Made up of two large terraces, one for dining and the other for coffee and drinks, Prasini Tenta has been buzzily busy since it reopened in earnest this summer, only to close for small periods during and after the tragic forest fires in Evia and Attica for precautionary reasons. Aperol Spritz seems to be the popular drink of choice in the bar/café section, where visitors can arrive from early in the morning to late at night. The restaurant serves a variety of snacks, appetisers and simple meals, from open sandwiches and ceviche to salads, pasta, pizza and burgers. The prices match the view in that they are high, considering that this is not a fancy restaurant run by a famous executive chef. But the view clearly makes people shrug at the exaggerated costs, which include €10 for simple classic cocktails, €13 for a club sandwich and €12 for a salad because it is truly worth lingering over for hours on end.
Prasini Tenta can be reached by foot – by walking up to Aristippou street from Ploutarchou, Loukianou or Marasli (beware, we see lots of stairs in your near future!) and then up the steps on Lycabettus hill (another 7-10 minutes’ walk uphill) or by driving and parking nearby.
TIP: To make the best of your experience, visit at sunset time and watch the sky change colours as the city below brightens with twinkling lights of different colours and the Parthenon turns to gold.
Tzoutzouka (slang for ‘adorable, pretty woman) is a new restaurant opened by Antonis Liolis in mid-May 2021 and has already become a success among the city’s top foodies, without letting its popularity get to its head.
Located in Rouf, an unremarkable yet slightly trendy post-industrial Athens neighbourhood and set in an old-style kafeneion with tables on the pavement, this low-profile, high flavour is a must if you love the combination of authentic Greek tastes and comfort food made with playful and loving intent.
Tzoutzouka’s charismatic and deeply intuitive kitchen artist, chef Argyro Koutsou used to be a Project Manager organising major cultural events until she stopped to question what she wanted to do with the rest of her life and turned to professional cooking ten years ago. Having grown up in a family with a strong connection to fishing and in which everyone cooked, she loved to observe how things are done in the kitchen from an early age.
“When I was 17 my mother broke her arm and had to be hospitalised, so I asked her what my dad could eat for dinner. She said she would have made him a lamb fricassee but I could just cook him some potatoes with eggs,” she says. “Instead, I cooked the fricassee, which I ended up throwing out, together with the cooking pot! But I became set on learning how to cook well after that. I had six months free before starting college, so I ordered a series of books that arrived month by month titled ‘Cooking Around the World’ and I started making every single recipe – which was challenging at the time because we didn’t have all the ethnic food stores we have in Athens today – so I made do with the ingredients I could get my hands on.
“Then I began to travel abroad and explore different cuisines, trying everything that excited and intrigued me, and finding wonderful flavours in all cuisines. Here, I cook the kind of food I like to eat at home and prepare for my loved ones. My dishes have a quirky side, what we call in Greek ‘alitiko’, (an ‘alitis’ is a tramp, outcast, vagabond) like my trahana* with mackerel and chilli’. Basically, I like to make comfort food that’s prepared according to professional-style cooking practices, for example using broths or sauces one wouldn’t generally make at home, but without needing to be technically brilliant. I don’t care about things looking perfect, I want the result to be unique, deeply satisfying and unpretentious,” says Argyro.
“The menu changes every few months according to the season and what ingredients are fresh at that time. There are some signature dishes, however, that don’t change. My favourite dishes are the trahanas, ewe casserole in a rich red sauce, aglio olio with anchovy, and fava with pickled calamari, but I love all the dishes I create, they’re like my children! I cook with the feeling of creating something that will nourish and nurture whoever eats it and transmit my love for the food and cooking.”
The wholesome and flavour-packed portions are large and very reasonably priced, in a near-anarchic answer to the overpriced and tiny – and sometimes unimpressively flavoured – portions one gets in haute cuisine. We started with a Greek salad, served only during summer when tomatoes are ripe and tasty and taramosalata with squid ink, which we generously slathered on thick hunks of sourdough bread. We went on with the smooth panna cotta with prentza cheese from Zakynthos and caramelised cherry tomatoes, sprinkled with crunchy sea salt; trahanas cooked to a soul-huggingly thick, creamy consistency enriched by mascarpone, topped with smoked mackarel and seasoned with lemon, chilli and thyme and fluffy meatballs cooked in a tomato sauce and served atop handmade hilopites short pasta and aged parmesan cheese.
Everyone at the table was beaming with satisfaction by the end of the meal when our spoons battled over the chocolate ganache with orange and the lemon mousse made with white chocolate. With glasses emptied to the last drop – the restaurant has a wine list of around 20 top quality labels – we left feeling we had met people who welcomed us into their wonderful food tribe and already anticipating our next visit.
*Trahanas Well known Greek American chef Diane Kochylas described Trahanas in the following way: “Trahana is one of the oldest foods in the Eastern Mediterranean, a tiny, pebble-shaped grain product that varies widely all over Greece. For the most part, it evolved as an ingenious way to preserve milk. Trahana is made with either semolina, wheat flour, bulgur or cracked wheat. Milk, buttermilk, or yogurt are mixed into flour or wheat to form a thick mass. In Thrace, a Lenten trahana is made with flour and vegetable pulp, seasoned with sesame seeds and hot pepper flakes.”
