The Small Cyclades: A Quiet Greek Island Escape

Small Cyclades guide

Discover Koufonisia, Schinoussa, Iraklia and Donoussa- the Small Cyclades islands between Naxos and Amorgos.

There was a time when most summer trips through the Cyclades revolved around the same islands. Mykonos for the nightlife, Santorini for the sunsets, Paros for the restaurants. But over the last few years, more travellers have started looking beyond the obvious, drawn instead to the smaller islands where days simply feel longer.

These small isles offer a different side of the Cyclades- the villages are quieter, many of the beaches are reached on foot or by boat, and the days tend to revolve around swimming, long lunches and wherever the ferry, the weather or the mood takes you next.

Part of what makes these islands so appealing is how easy they are to experience together. Ferries move between them regularly throughout summer, making it possible to spend a few days on one island before continuing onto the next. And while they sit close to one another, each island feels completely different once you arrive. Koufonisia has its beach bars and bright turquoise water, Schinoussa feels peaceful and very local, Iraklia remains rugged and almost untouched, while Donoussa attracts travellers looking for something completely different from the pace of the larger islands.

Together, they capture the side of the Cyclades many travellers now find themselves searching for most- it’s one that feels laid-back and still closely connected to the stunning landscape and sea around it.

Koufonisia

The most well-known of the Small Cyclades, Koufonisia has become something of a cult favourite over recent years, particularly among younger locals, creatives and Europeans searching for that balance between beautiful beaches and a laid-back vibe. Yet despite its growing popularity, it still feels authentic. 

The island itself is tiny, with most people staying around Chora, where whitewashed laneways, fishing boats and small bars spill towards the water. There are no large resorts here and days are spent swimming, walking between beaches and enjoying dinner and drinks until late.

What makes Koufonisia stand out most is the stunning colour of the water. The coastline shifts between turquoise and deep blue, while the coastal walk from Chora towards Pori Beach has become one of the island’s signature experiences, passing rocky swimming spots, sea caves and tiny coves along the way.

What to See & Do in Koufonisia

One of the best ways to experience Koufonisia is on foo- the coastal path beginning in Chora and stretching towards Pori Beach winds past some of the island’s most beautiful swimming spots, including the sea caves around Gala and Xylobatis, where travellers spend hours jumping from the rocks into impossibly clear water. Boat trips to nearby Kato Koufonisi are also part of the experience, particularly for those wanting a chilled day. By late afternoon, the harbour begins to fill again, with people gathering for drinks as fishing boats drift back towards shore and sunset settles over Chora.

Where to Swim in Koufonisia

Koufonisia’s beaches are a large part of why travellers return year after year. Pori Beach remains the island’s most iconic stretch of sand, while nearby Fanos and Foinikas feel slightly more low-key, with tavernas sitting just steps from the sea. Italida attracts a younger crowd, while Ammos Beach, directly beside Chora, is ideal for quick swims throughout the day. Pisina, a natural rock pool with strikingly clear water, has also become one of the island’s most photographed spots.

Where to Eat & Drink in Koufonisia

Food and drinks on Koufonisia often begin with a late brunch and end with cocktails by the harbour. To Kyma has become a favourite for relaxed breakfasts and brunches before the beach, while Capetan Nikolas remains one of the island’s classic seafood tavernas for long lunches by the water. For traditional dishes in a beautiful seaside setting, head to Finikas, particularly in the afternoon when the beach begins to quieten down.

As evening arrives, the mood around Chora shifts. Sorokos Bar continues to be one of the island’s best-known sunset spots, while Tzet and Mylos Bar draw a stylish crowd for late-night drinks. For dinner, Laska, Mikres Cyclades and New Remezzo are among the places people return to repeatedly throughout summer.

Schinoussa

Smaller and more low-key than Koufonisia, this is the island travellers often fall in love with unexpectedly, as it’s the kind of place where you forget what time of day it is.

There are only a handful of villages, tiny beaches scattered around the coastline and friendly locals who love their island. Many visitors return year after year because very little changes and Schinoussa attracts travellers wanting a simple summer holiday filled with long swims, slow lunches, afternoon naps and evenings spent in small tavernas where everyone seems to know one another.

The beaches here are smaller, many reached via dirt roads or walking paths, while the landscape itself feels raw, rugged and distinctly Cycladic.

What to See & Do in Schinoussa

Evenings here often begin with a wander through Chora, where whitewashed houses, bougainvillea and tiny cafés overlook the surrounding hills and sea. During the day, travellers spend their time exploring hidden coves around the island, hiking between beaches and small chapels or following dirt paths that lead towards quiet stretches of coastline with barely another person in sight. 

Where to Swim in Schinoussa

The beaches on Schinoussa feel beautifully untouched, with no organised scenes or large beach bars distracting from the landscape itself. Psili Ammos is known for its soft sand and calm turquoise water, while Livadi feels more open and rugged, particularly on windy days when the sea changes colour throughout the afternoon. Almyros and Lioliou are smaller and quieter, ideal for travellers wanting a more secluded swim, while Kampos remains one of the island’s lesser-known beaches, often attracting those looking to escape even the small summer crowds.

Where to Eat & Drink in Schinoussa

Food on Schinoussa is tied to the island’s identity, with many tavernas still family-run and centred around traditional Cycladic cooking. Deli has become one of the island’s best-known spots for modern Greek dishes made with local ingredients, while Nikolas Taverna remains a favourite for seafood and long, relaxed dinners that stretch late into the evening.

For something more traditional, many travellers find themselves returning to Hara Kafeneio, particularly for homemade dishes and local sweets served beneath the trees, while Bizeli is known for grilled meats, fresh fish and a lovley setting. 

Iraklia

Of all the Small Cyclades, Iraklia may feel the most untouched. Larger than its neighbouring islands but far quieter in terms of visitors, it is the kind of place where silence becomes part of the experience. There are few crowds and long stretches of coastline where you may not see another person for hours.

Life here moves slowly around the two small settlements of Agios Georgios and Panagia. Travellers come for hiking, wild swimming and complete disconnection. There are no modern hotels or fine dining restaurants and that is what makes it so special. 

One of the island’s highlights is the Cave of Agios Ioannis, considered one of the most important caves in the Cyclades, while the beaches remain beautifully undeveloped and often almost empty, even during peak season.

What to See & Do in Iraklia

Iraklia is the kind of island best experienced on foot or by boat. Hiking trails connect much of the island, including the path between Agios Georgios and Panagia, which passes dry hillsides, tiny chapels and sweeping sea views along the way. One of the island’s most memorable experiences is the walk to the Cave of Agios Ioannis, a vast cave hidden within the hills that has become one of Iraklia’s defining landmarks. Boat trips around the coastline are also popular during summer, particularly for reaching quieter coves and beaches that are breathtaking.

Where to Swim in Iraklia

The beaches on Iraklia are raw and undeveloped, with many remaining completely quiet even in peak season. Livadi Beach, one of the island’s largest stretches of sand, is known for its calm water, while Agios Georgios is ideal for easy swims close to the port. Vorini Spilia attracts more adventurous swimmers with its dramatic rocky setting, and Karvounolakos is remote. Alimia Beach has also become one of the island’s most interesting swimming spots, not only for its crystal-clear water but for the visible WWII plane wreck resting beneath the sea nearby.

Where to Eat & Drink in Iraklia

Dining on Iraklia remains simple and traditional- Akathi is one of the island’s best-known tavernas for seafood and homemade dishes, while Maistrali, overlooking the port, is loved for its relaxed setting and vegetables sourced directly from the family’s garden.

For long, slow lunches or dinner after the beach, many visitors also head to Askos, while Melissa is the perfect stop for coffee and something sweet during the day.

Donoussa

Closest to Amorgos, Donoussa has a wilder, freer feeling than the other Small Cyclades islands. The landscape is more rugged, the coastline dramatic and the atmosphere slightly more bohemian, attracting campers, hikers and travellers looking for a very stripped-back version of island life.

The island’s small main village wraps around the port, while beaches stretch out across the coastline. Kedros Beach, in particular, has become one of the island’s most loved spots, known for its clear water and relaxed atmosphere.

Donoussa feels ideal for travellers wanting to disconnect completely, as days here revolve around walking, swimming and spending long hours outdoors. 

What to See & Do in Donoussa

Hiking trails connect many of the island’s beaches and villages, winding along cliffside paths with uninterrupted views over the Aegean. Kedros Beach remains one of the island’s highlights, not only for its clear water but for the German shipwreck resting beneath the sea just offshore, now a popular snorkelling spot. Many travellers also spend time exploring the tiny village of Mersini, one of the greenest parts of the island, before continuing towards Kalotaritissa, where the coastline becomes noticeably more rugged and dramatic.

Where to Swim in Donoussa

Kedros Beach is the island’s most famous stretch of sand, attracting swimmers, campers and travellers staying for entire afternoons beneath the tamarisk trees. Livadi Beach feels more remote, while Stavros Beach, close to the port, is ideal for easy swims throughout the day. Vathi Limenari, reached by footpath, remains one of the island’s most secluded beaches and rewards those willing to make the walk with exceptionally clear water and complete tranquillity.

Where to Eat & Drink in Donoussa

Food on Donoussa remains simple and local, centred around family-run tavernas, bakeries and relaxed seaside spots. Mitsos Restaurant continues to be one of the island’s best-known tavernas for traditional Greek cooking and dishes served beneath the trees, while Captain George Meat and Grill is popular for grilled meats and casual dinners near the port.

For something lighter during the day, stop by O Panais Bakery for pastries and coffee before the beach, while Enalia is known for its great crepes and relaxed setting. Ampelaki and Simadoura are both great for laid-back lunches by the sea, while Iliovasilema, sitting right beside the beach, is the perfect sunset spot on the island. 

Book your ferry tickets for the Small Cyclades here. 

Main image by Finikas Koufononisa 

 

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10 Reasons to Visit Ano Koufonissi

Ano Koufonissi is the smallest inhabited island in the Cyclades- but what it lacks in size it makes up for in natural beauty, authenticity, and genuine Greek island hospitality.  

Part of Koufonissia, which comprises Ano (Upper) and Kato (Lower) Koufonissi; is separated by a narrow strait and the island of Keros. 

This stunning little isle is actually located between Naxos and Amorgos and boasts breathtaking sandy beaches, emerald green coves, and striking sea caves. Small enough to walk around in a day, this doesn’t mean you’ll be ready to leave after 24 hours- on the contrary- Ano Koufonissi allows visitors to relax, unwind and experience traditional Cycladic Island life without the crowds; leaving you wanting more. 

Keep in mind, cars are not allowed on the island, but you can easily get around by walking, cycling, and small boats. So apart from treating yourself to lazy days on the beach, here’s our list of the best things to see and do when visiting Ano Koufonissi!  

Insights Greece - 10 Reasons to Visit Ano Koufonissi1. Stroll around the charming capital Chora and discover tiny treasures including small boutiques with folk art, handmade jewellery by local artisans and a range of traditional fisherman’s hats. Roam the cobblestone streets and wander through picturesque alleyways filled with colourful shops, cafés, bars, and restaurants. Make sure you take a seat at one of the seaside taverns and enjoy a long lunch or dinner while watching the sunset. 

2. Discover several sea caves at Pano Koufonissis North Cape.

3. Dive straight into the turquoise waters for a memorable swim at any of the following beaches- Finikas, Fanos, Ammos, Italida, Pori, Charakopou, Parianos, and also add the tiny beach of Gala to your list – you won’t be disappointed! 

4. Savour freshly caught fish, octopus and sea urchins at one of the local seafood taverns while also drinking a shot of “rakomelo,” as the locals do. 

5. Also make sure to try the locally made Xynomyzithra (a goat’s cheese served with honey as a dessert, or added to salads). Other local dishes include Patatato (beef casserole in tomato sauce with potatoes), as are the traditional sweets Pasteli on lemon leaves and Xerotigana (sweet dumplings). 

Insights Greece - 10 Reasons to Visit Ano Koufonissi

6. Visit Saint Nicholas’ small church, which offers beautiful views of nearby islands. Saint George’s and Panagia’s churches are also definitely worth a visit. 

7. Don’t miss a dip in Piscina, a natural pool, surrounded by rocks- it features the most beautiful turquoise waters. Dive from the top straight into the pool for an unforgettable swim. 

8. For a great cultural experience and to get to know the island’s history head over to Nikitas Simos Folklore & Archaeological Collection, exhibited in the garden of Villa Ostria in Agios Georgios, it is set in a well-preserved stone building that was built in 1852.

9. Also visit the Communal Folklore Collection with displays of household and kitchen utensils, farm equipment, traditional garments, furniture, embroidery and various ornaments that highlight the island’s history, customs and traditions. 

10. Don’t leave before enjoying an Aperol Spritz at Mylos  (a traditional windmill that has been turned into a cool concept store/ all-day bar), or Sorokos Bar, which is also set right by the water. 

Insights Greece - 10 Reasons to Visit Ano Koufonissi

Getting there…

From Athens, Koufonissia is only reachable by ferry from the ports of Piraeus and Rafina. The closest airport is located on Naxos island with daily domestic flights from Athens. From Naxos, you can take a ferry to Koufonissia, as well as some other islands in the Cyclades.

Main Image by Mylos Bar ©

Escape to a Secret Greek Island Retreat

A time to reset, eat beautifully, sharpen your senses, and connect to the wild during a retreat at an authentic and under the radar Greek island. This seven day experience at the sea in Koufonisia is dedicated to giving back to your body, mind and soul.

Insights Greece - Escape to a Secret Greek Island Retreat

Having spent three rejuvenating months on Naxos island, where she immersed herself in the soul of the land and the people she encountered, Patricia Garcia Gomez decided it’s the perfect time to lead a retreat in Greece, that’s “about re-setting, connecting to nature and self, making space to be filled up with goodness. No other place is as life-affirming as Greece. I would like to go deeper and farther into Greece, and see the places less visited,” says Patricia.  

With close friends who call Naxos home, Patricia has carefully curated an upcoming experience which will allow those who go along to enjoy plenty of ocean time, daily movement, farm (and sea) to table meals, rest and adventuring. “This is a soul sabbatical, which means you let your lovely soul take the lead. You will be supported with delicious and fortifying elixirs made from local island herbs and flowers, restorative movement and sound, cicada songs, and lots of shared joy.” 

IN+SIGHTS GREECE recently spoke with Patricia about what people can expect from this experience. 

What can people expect from the Rewild & Restore (aka Your best Greek life) experience? 

“Your best Greek life” is an invitation into the senses and ancient dreams. A rewilding of the soul, with lots of glorious space for doing what inspires you. One can expect to eat beautifully, be in good company, be supported with daily movement and inspiration, some secret sensory adventures, and plenty of time for as much soul-nourishing rest as you like. 

How did it all come about and how did you decide on Koufonisia as the place to visit?

Insights Greece - Escape to a Secret Greek Island Retreat

It came about while I was living on the island of Naxos, creating my sensory immersion installation and swimming. Swimming in the Aegean shifted everything for me. I met Anita here and we developed a fabulous friendship. We love many of the same things, beauty, nature, thoughtful experiences, hand-made items, and a good laugh under the stars. When Anita invited me to Eros Keros (which was not yet open), I was smitten. It’s a magical place, that feels ancient, wild, and serene. She has channeled a lifetime of creativity into every detail. From each room, you gaze directly on to the sacred island of Keros. The R&R Best Greek Life experience is our way of sharing the things we love with others and also creating something new together.

What can you reveal about the 7 days by the sea in Koufonisia?

Time feels different in Koufonisi. It moves slower, sensually and not in a straight line but through the senses. The locals say that with each day here, you will do less. This is true in my experience. And there is magic in this. We have six days here, surrounded by the blue of the Aegean, so nothing is rushed. The sea is medicine. And we have some really fun adventures in-store. 

Will the retreat be led by yourself and locals?

Absolutely. The only imported ‘leader’ will be me. All of the other experiences will be hosted by friends, and friends of friends who live and work on the islands. As an example, Anita has known our sea captain for over twenty years, since she first fell in love with Koufonisi.

What kinds of activities do you have planned?

Insights Greece - Escape to a Secret Greek Island Retreat

Rather than the word activities, I would like to use the word experiences. We will experience…

Swims in the Aegean, including private adventures to secret swim spots.

Beautiful shared meals, sourced locally and made with love.

Daily movement and meditation.

An adventure off the island (a surprise).

Foraging and frolicking (another surprise).

Privacy, serenity, and lot of rest and free time

Rewilding is about filling up, not about exhausting. It is a time to be free in the beauty of life and the moment.

Tell us more about the gastronomical experiences people can expect? 

Insights Greece - Escape to a Secret Greek Island Retreat

All meals will be farm and sea to table, and locally sourced as much as possible. We have a local chef who will be preparing all meals, with the brief of making each meal delicious, fresh, simple and full of vibrancy.

How many people are you expecting on the retreat? 

We are keeping it small. The retreat will be limited to 10 people. Just enough for good company, and not too many so you can enjoy your own time.

Where will the group meet? 

We will all meet on the magical island of Koufonisi. I remember the first time I stepped off the ferry there. It has been calling me back ever since.

The Intel

Dates: September 2021

Location: Eros Keros, Koufonisi. Secret location.

More details: Rewild and Restore 2021

More about Patricia Garcia-Gomez and how swimming in the Aegean changed her life.

The next R&R experiences: May and June 2022

Main Image by IN+SIGHTS GREECE © (Copyright)