Molyvos or Mithimna, as it was called during the ancient times, is a traditional preserved settlement of Lesvos Island – with medieval architecture and a romantic atmosphere it has kept its true character throughout the times.

Our visit to Molyvos started from its Genovese castle, one of the best preserved (of its kind) in the Eastern Mediterranean. The view of the settlement from up there, with its red-tiled buildings, the blue Aegean Sea, and the lush green olive trees creates a unique mosaic – enhanced by the sweet colors of the sunset. 

As we walked down the cobbled alleyways, we passed by stone-built and wooden houses (one of the reasons why Molyvos was declared a traditional settlement in 1965), charming little shops selling local products like olive oil, herbs, and honey or ceramics; as well as fountains with inscriptions left over from the Ottoman Empire era, traditional kafeneia (cafes), and locals chatting in their gardens filled with sprawling pot plants. 

Soon we found ourselves in an alleyway that was voted the most beautiful in the world. A road covered by a stunning flower called wisteria. Every time it’s in bloom, this road is covered with pretty purple flowers. 

Shortly after we reached a dead-end, some steps on our right hand invited us to the traditional Hammam. From the entrance, we were led to a marble vestibule under a perforated dome, and from there we headed to an impressive circular bath with a series of individual marble baths under an equally perforated dome. 

In Molyvos, there are also impressive neoclassical houses like the Komninaki-Kralli Mansion, which today functions as an annex of the School of Fine Arts; a highlight is its top floor, which is decorated with murals created by popular painters.

The main roads of the village lead to the town square, featuring a big plane tree and the striking mansions surrounding it. There are also some incredible Byzantine churches inclduding Agios Panteleimon and Taxiarchis. 

We made a stop at “Balkonaki” to enjoy galaktoboureko (custard pie) and a perfect view, before ending up at the picturesque fishing port of Molyvos, with the lovely chapel of Agios Nikolaos, as well as boats and trawls, and tavernas featuring song lyrics from old Greek movies and poems splattered on the traditional wooden chairs. This is the place, where once upon a time the great Greek novelist Ilias Venezis sat to drink his Greek coffee. We also visited some charming mansions (painted in pretty pastels) on the coastal road. From here you can enjoy views of the castle and the charming rooftops of the many homes. 

Extra Tip

If you are visiting in the warmer months and want to cool off, head to Molyvos Beach, which is located in the village. Additionally, at a distance of approximately 3 kilometers from Molyvos, you will find Eftalou, a beach with small pebbles, and famous for its thermal springs. Just keep in mind, that the sea here remains cold no matter how warm the weather is, which is probably due to the steep drop of the sea bottom or the sea currents. However, the remarkable “sauna” of the Eftalou thermal springs remains warm and is known for its therapeutic benefits. 

Images by Polina Paraskevoupoulou ©

Discover the beauty of Tinos, through its rich gastronomy and unspoilt villages, with our detailed foodie guide for this authentic Cycladic island. 

While planning a trip to Tinos, I was repeatedly informed that the beauty of this island was in its villages, and its food. After spending days exploring this island inhabited by around 10,000 residents, over 700 churches and 50 active villages, I can agree that not only is the beauty of Tinos in its food and its villages, but also in the road getting there. Tinos’ sprawling landscape varies from lush vineyards, jaw-dropping boulder land and agricultural terracing that dates as far back as the Bronze Age. The roads are spotted with churches, original pigeon houses and more than a few adventurous goats…and they lead to some unique villages and memorable food experiences.  

No-frills mezedes at Myrsini

Myrsini is a small, picturesque village on the road to Livada (a visit to Livada beach is a must, as its boulder-clad landscape is surreal). Situated at the foot of Tsiknias mountain (where, according to legend, Aeolus lived) Myrsini is said to have been founded during the Byzantine era. After passing the traditional pigeon houses at the entrance of the village, wander through the quiet alleys until you hear the faint sound of chatter around a corner. The sign for Pantopoleio Tereza will point you in the right direction until you happen upon a small patio with a few tables facing a small flower garden. The pantopoleio (a traditional store that sells just about everything) has been in Myrsini since 1985, and still sells a range of necessities, from laundry detergent to pasta. Its small kitchen was originally built to make a few simple mezedes often served to locals with their coffee. Today, Tereza’s small kitchen serves up some big flavours and is fast becoming a favourite among food lovers. Sample local specialties like kopanisti (a soft, peppery local cheese) and marathokeftedes that are golden and crispy on the outside and filled with fragrant fennel batter on the inside. Tereza also makes fresh pies daily, including pies from artichokes which are a local gourmet product of Tinos and a must-try on the island.

Portokalopita at Pyrgos

One of the island’s largest villages, Pyrgos is a beautiful village known for its marble. Aside from the marble that is featured all over the village, there is the Museum of Marble Crafts which showcases marble extraction and sculpture techniques. Yannoulis Chalepas, the most distinguished sculptor of modern Greece, was born and raised on Tinos island, and his family home at the entrance to Pyrgos is now an impressive museum. Pyrgos’ alleyways are filled with small boutiques selling designer clothing, unique gifts and jewellery (be sure to stop in at Jove Jewellery + Art, which showcases handmade jewellery and homewares made by independent Greek designers). The centrepiece of Pyrgos is undoubtedly the central square which is set around an impressive platanos (plane) tree that provides ample shade for the cafes and eateries placed strategically around it. The kafenion aptly named O Platanos is worth taking a seat at for a serving of their homemade portokalopita (orange pie) which is made using a family recipe passed down through generations. This orange pie is sweet, flakey, best served with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream and it’s unlike any other orange pie you’ve ever tasted. 

The real deal: authentic taverna fare at Aetofolia

Translating to “Eagle’s Nest”, the village of Aetofolia really does resemble a nest built high in the mountains. Surrounded by mountainous landscape, with a view down to Kato Meri, this village became a settlement for ceramic artists and has its own Museum of Traditional Pottery and Folk Art. Aetofolia has a special feeling of serenity that comes with places that are a little off the beaten track. Kounaria was established in 2013 and is an unassuming family-run taverna that offers up authentic, local Tinian cuisine, made by Josephina and served up by her lovely, hospitable family. Lunch at Kounaria must include a xoriatiki with sweet, ripe tomatoes, and at least one of Josephina’s homemade pies (the kremmidopita is made from the abundant local onions and is a standout). Go for grilled meats, cooked dishes and potatoes cooked in the oven with loads of olive oil and oregano.

Scenic strolls and seafood at Kardiani 

Kardiani may be one of the prettiest villages on Tinos and it is without a doubt the greenest. Narrow alleyways, whitewashed steps, old marble homes and bright flowers characterise the village, which has its own stream of cool water that runs through the village and gushes out of the surrounding springs. O Ntinos is a short drive from the centre of Kardiani village down to the coast and is synonymous with fresh seafood. At O Ntinos, you’ll see tables of people enjoying the garidomakaronada (prawn spaghetti) that has a complex-tasting broth and spaghetti cooked to al dente perfection (which can often be a rarity in Greece). The menu also includes signature Tinian salads, and interesting takes on Greek seafood classics, like the octopus stifado served on carrot puree. Enjoy the food and the uninterrupted sea view with a chilled glass of rose as the sun slowly sets.  

Starting your day the right way at Chora

Like most Greek islands, Chora (the main town) plays an important role in daily life. Chora is located close to the port and is a convenient place to base yourself, with most accommodation options and Tinos’ nightlife a short walk away. Tinos’ Chora is home to Panagia Evangelistria, the major Marian shrine in Greece and pilgrimage site, with thousands of pilgrims covering the distance from the port to the shrine on their hands and knees throughout the year. Chora offers some especially enticing ways to start your day in Tinos. If good coffee is important to you, make your first coffee stop of the day at Prickly Bear, a small cafe serving up Area 51 coffee (a specialty brand from Athens) that is best enjoyed on the low stools set in the sunny alleyway and served up by smiling baristas who take their coffee seriously. Sol Bake and Coffee Project is a hole-in-the-wall take-away spot, filled with plants and skating paraphernalia that serves up coffee and vegan treats. Finally, no trip to Tinos town would be complete without a stop at Halaris sweets. Open since 192, this small, sweet-smelling zacharoplasteio bakes daily traditional sweet treasures like cakes, biscuits, halva cake, tsoureki and sweet gifts to bring back home.

You can read our ultimate guide to Tinos here.