Complete Travel Guide to Greece

Next Cycladic Stop, Kimolos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on Kimolos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he
writes about his first encounter with Kimolos island. This personal story about Kimolos is part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Kimolos

The perlite mine at Prassa, in the north-east of Kimolos between Cape Pouli and Cape Agios Georgios is visible for miles. Especially from the mountainous areas of western Sifnos, such as Fikadia Bay, formed like a pocket in the south-west, to the monastery of Toso Nero, close to Kamares Bay further north.

This half erased, dome-like hill, constantly struck by waves at its base, has been clawed at throughout time. First by hand and then machine, exposing an interior of such white purity it resembles a gigantic mirror reflecting brightness of unmatched intensity. This is especially notable in hot summer weather, when the sun is less forgiving. It stands ravaged, a symbol of this island in antiquity when it was a battleground between Athens, ruler of Kimolos, and Milos, ruled by Sparta.

The undulating golden hillsides characteristic of its south and west, charm the journeying eye that spies them, memorising their blissful details on its way to neighbouring Milos or more distant Folegandros.

Port Vathi is almost one with Chorio, the island’s capital, at the foot of Mount Xaplovouni, like a patchwork of snowflakes surrounded by terraced hillsides and further off rugged mountains.

I have fond recollections of the northern bay of Agioklima, Cape Gerakia and Monastiria Bay, which I saw by boat while searching for spots to free dive.

There were no signs of humanity, just rocks often overpowering in shape and contrasting in colours. Kimolos is a delight to discover and both above and below water.

Check out Mark Wilman’s Photography here

Guide to Nafplio, Greece’s Most Romantic Town

Nafplio has been named Greece’s most romantic town, and for a good reason!

Set on a small port beneath the towering Palamidi fortress, it is filled with beautiful alleyways, neoclassical mansions and stunning Venetian houses. Located in the area of Argolis in the Peloponnese, Nafplio was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823 and 1834.

Here is our mini-guide for when visiting this oh-so-pretty destination!

Getting there

Nafplio is approximately 94 km far from Athens. You can reach the town either by car or by suburban buses (KTEL) departing regularly from Kifissos bus station.

When to Visit?

Nafplio truly is an all-year-round destination. With quite a few beaches, it can easily be on your list for a summer getaway, however we believe this charming town is ideal in spring and autumn, as the local taverns, restaurants, cafes, bars, museums, and archaeological sites can be enjoyed without the huge crowds and there’s perfect weather conditions.

Museums and History

Nafplio is home to an Archaeological Museum housed in a Venetian building on Syntagma Square. The permanent exhibition features statues, jewellery, costumes, sculptures, ceramics and rare artefacts from the Neolithic Period.

Make sure you also make your way to the Komboloi Museum, which opened in 1998 to showcase the history of Greece’s famous beads.

Insights Greece - Guide to Nafplio, Greece's Most Romantic Town — Archaeological Museum @nafpliogr

Nearby you will also find the first Greek Parliament, the War Museum, the Municipal Gallery, old Turkish Mosques, Trion Navarhon Square, and the Peloponnesian Folk Art Museum.

Located just one street before Syntagma Square at the center of the old town of Nafplio, is the church of Agios Spyridon. This church is known to every Greek because of an incident that sealed the fate of the New Greek State.

Also check out the Unesco sites: Tirintha, Mykines, Epidavros, and Mystras, and visit at least one of Nafplio’s three castles: Palamidi, Bourtzi, and Acronafplia.

Make sure you…

Bring some comfortable shoes, as this town is ideal for walking! Leisurely stroll around and enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the Old Town, with its bougainvillea-filled streets, hidden squares, and stunning neoclassical mansions.

And if you walk through the narrow alleyways, you will find an array of cafes and bars where you can sit down and enjoy a fine wine, throw back a beer, or sip on a cocktail.

Where to stay…

You are spoiled for choice with boutique accommodation, as there are a range of luxurious hotels, stunning mansions, traditional guesthouses, and lovely budget apartments- this picturesque town really caters to all. We recommend you check out: Nafplion 1841, Nafplia Palace Hotel & Villas, The Amphityron, Filoxenion Luxury rooms & Lofts, 3 Sixty Hotel & Suites, and Castellano Hotel Suites.

To eat

Nafplio has many traditional taverns that are ideal for those who love indulging in classic Greek dishes and some of our favourite eateries include: Karamalis, To Omorfo Tavernaki, Kavalaris Corner Mezedopoleoi, and Pidalio. Also make sure to check out: Taverna Old House, Zournal, and Taverna O Vasilis. For casual dining try Trendy Grill or Menta, Arapakos for seafood, and Scuola for pizza and pasta.

Sweet treats

For some of the best desserts in town, we recommend Pergamonto, which serves traditional Loukoumades (Greek honey puff donuts). For gelato check out Antica Gelateria di Roma and Gelarto. And for a variety of Greek sweets head to Central Boulangerie Bakery.

To drink

There’s a range of all-day cafes and bars where you can grab a great coffee or a luscious cocktail. When you’re in the mood for a drink, make your way to Kontogiorgos Café, Xenon Café, Arti, Teori Oldtown Bar, BluBlanc Beach Bar, 3 Sixty, Alkioni Wine Bar, Mediterraneo Wine & Deli, Sokaki Café, Teory, and Yacht.

Beaches

If you are here during the warmer months head to Arvanitia Beach, Karathona, Tolo, Kastraki, Banieres, Mili, Kiveri, and Neraki for a swim.

Don’t leave until you…

Have an ancient Greek massage at Panta Rei.

Check out Karonis Distillery Exhibition and Shop– established in 1869, the spirit producing company is one of the oldest in Greece. The current owner makes ouzo, tsipouro, liqueurs, and brandy with the same passion as his forefathers.

Savor a Nafplio food tour.

Go to the ‘Laiki’ (local markets) on Wednesday or Saturday.

Visit one of these three caves: Didima, Franchthi, and Kapsia.

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Top 26 Things to Do in Thessaloniki

There are huge celebrations that take place in Thessaloniki on October 26, as it marks the Feast Day of Agios Dimitrios, the protector and Patron Saint of the city, as well as the Liberation of Thessaloniki by the Greek Army, which took place on this day in 1912. To honour this festive day, we’ve put together the Top 26 things to do when visiting Greece’s co-capital.

1. Take a long stroll along Nea Paralia, the city’s much-loved waterfront.

2. Make sure you stop off at Thessaloniki’s Concert Hall, where one of the buildings was created by famous Japanese architect Arata Isozaki- it’s a strikingly contemporary structure with impeccably simple geometry.

3. Along the way you will come across a few parks, sit down and enjoy a little picnic at Rose Park or the Sound Park.

4. As you walk along Nea Paralia you will also discover art installations including the popular Ombreles, which has become one of Thessaloniki’s most Insta-worthy spots.

Insights Greece - Top 26 Things to Do in Thessaloniki — Nea Paralia

5. Shop till you drop along Stsimiski Street, where you will find a range of boutiques featuring all the latest shoes, accessories and clothes.

6. And if you are looking for some upmarket labels make sure to hit Nikis Ave. and Mitropoelos St, with many boutiques that stock local and international luxury brands.

7. Discover stunning mansions on Vasilissis Olgas Avenue, which is lined with prestigious properties built in the late 1800s to early 1900s.

8. Eat your way around Thessaloniki! And first, you must try the city’s famous bougatsa at- Bantis: operating since 1969, Serraikon: one of the oldest bougatsa shops in town, or Yiannis: open all day and night.

9. Then head to Ladadika for some traditional tavernas or to the seaport for some great fish.

10. For some authentic local dishes we recommend Pezodromos Restaurant, which serves fresh seafood and Sebrico for gourmet Greek with a Cretan twist.

11. The Culinary Market is a must for discovering local delicacies, herbs, honey and oils, which you can take home.

11. One of the best bakeries in the country is Ble, serving artisan bread, homemade pies and other sweet treats.

12. Sticking to sweets, another famous delicacy to try here is Trigona, a triangle pastry filled with custard- for this you must head to Elenidis.

13. And you can’t leave the city without trying the popular Tsoureki (a Greek brioche-style bread) from Terkenlis.

14. Thessaloniki is coffee central and we suggest you try Valenio, CinCin, and Nooon, which is in the heart of the city and a favourite amongst locals and visitors who enjoy the buzzing atmosphere, stunning décor, and great espresso.

15. If you can only get to one we suggest you make that Ypsilon, which has been named one of the coolest cafés in the world.

16. Now for the real drinks. For some mouthwatering cocktails head to Mojo, this is where the local crowd hangs out and also check out Gorilla.

17. And we have to give a special mention to Sinatra Espresso Wine Bar, which is a nice and cozy spot for a glass or two.

18. And if you are after an all-day bar check out Local Thessaloniki, which is open for brunch, lunch and dinner!

19. For an outdoor experience head to Palio Hamam, with a great rooftop bar, which is transported into a more cozy atmosphere over the cooler months.

20. For the view of all views (from up high) head to Electra Palace’s Orizontes Roof Garden bar, which overlooks Aristotelous Square.

21. And speaking of views- make your way up to Kastra (castles), which also offers some of the finest glimpses in town. Just sit on one of the benches and watch the sunset.

22. For a real cultural experience head to the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, which is one of the largest museums in Greece.

23. Although this is an obvious one, we can’t not mention The White Tower, which is a monument and museum on the waterfront of the city- this just can’t be missed.

24. And discover many treasures at the Museum of Byzantine Culture, where different aspects of a specific historical period of Byzantium are highlighted.

25. For a modern museum head to Toss Gallery and Nitra Gallery, where you can browse artworks and exhibitions by featured artists.

26. Also make your way to the Jewish Museum, which features several exhibits and photos for visitors to view the religious and everyday life of the Jews of Thessaloniki up to WWII.

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5 Best Towns in Greece to Visit in Autumn

Greece is a beautiful destination to visit during each season. But we love exploring some of the prettiest towns here in the fall.

Why? Fewer tourists, plus some of the most beautiful autumn foliage in the entire world. Whether you’re looking for a cozy weekend away, are desperate to breathe in some fresh mountain air, or just want to wander the local streets and enjoy traditional delicacies, here are five of the best places to visit in Greece during the autumn months.

Karpenissi (Central Greece)

Known as the “Switzerland” of Greece, this stunning town is perched at 960 meters on the slopes of Mount Velouchi and surrounded by fir trees. Offering a wonderful getaway from the city, Karpenissi is ideal for all travellers. If you are after some R&R you can relax by the fireplace in a charming boutique hotel, go for a romantic stroll in traditional settlements and enjoy the amazing local culinary delights. For those who prefer an adventurous holiday, you can take part in all kinds of activities including white water rafting in the Trikeriotis and Tavropos rivers, canyoning in Vothonas, skiing and paragliding in Velouchi, riding, canoeing, hiking, mountain biking, swimming, trekking in the Pantavrechi ravine, fishing in the Karpenissiotis river, or take part in truffle hunting – Karpenissi offers it all.

Don’t leave until: Visiting Proussos Byzantine Monastery, trying the tastiest local dishes- at Paradisos Mikro Horio, a homemade Galaktoboureko at Rakomelo Karvelis and a late night cocktail at Eithistai Café.

Insights Greece - 5 Best Towns in Greece to Visit in Autumn

Andritsaina (Peloponnese)

This gorgeous and picturesque mountain town has a long history; as it played a crucial role during the Greek War of Independence. Andritsaina impresses visitors by its old stone mansions, its narrow cobbled streets and the central square (plateia), surrounded by tall trees and magnificent view of the nearby mountains. I Trani Vrysi is located on the opposite side of the plateia and is the Peloponnese’s oldest tap, built in 1724. From here you can visit the wonderful Temple of Epicurean Apollo, a World Heritage–listed site, located 14km south.

Don’t leave until: Visiting Nikolopoulios Library which contains unique and historical books, Alfeios River- the longest in the Peloponesse, and if you are there on the weekend make sure to go to the main square for the weekly markets- where you can buy some local delicacies including pasta, mountain tea and herbs.

Galaxidi (Central Greece)

This famous naval town is ideal for a long weekend getaway. Boasting stunning neoclassical houses pebble-covered courtyards, old captains’ mansions, lovely ports and an authentic feel is why you should add Galaxidi to a must visit Autumn destination. The naval and the folklore museums highlight the town’s rich history and just strolling around the port, you will come across many ancient treasures. Make sure to check out the area of Pera Panta.

Don’t leave until: Visiting the Church of Agios Nikolaos, trying the fresh local seafood, tasting a homemade Ravani (syrup drenched cake) and making a stop over at the archaeological site of Delphi, which is very close by.

Kalavryta (Achaea)

This charming town lies at the foot of Mt. Chelmos and it is a must-visit buzzing place during autumn and winter- with its stone-built houses, town squares, quaint alleys, buzzing cafés and authentic tavernas. The best thing is to hire a car and drive around to spots including the Monastery of Mega Spileo, carved against the slopes of a mountain, the historical Monastery of Agia Lavra where the Greek Revolution of 1821 was first declared and the miraculous Cave of the Lakes. One of the most popular things to do here is take a train tour around Vouraikos Gorge- it’s considered as one of the most scenic in Greece.

Don’t leave until: Visiting the historical Holocaust Monument, the miraculous church Panagia Plataniotissa, going on a hike or mountain biking as you take in the fresh mountain air, and buying some local products including handmade pasta, honey, and their delicious range of spoon sweets.

Florina (Macedonia)

This quaint little town is filled with an array of cafes and restaurants. It’s a great spot to enjoy natural beauty, lush valley, hiking and winter sports. Boasting six magnificent lakes (Vegoritida, Petron Lake, Zazari, Ximaritida, Mikri and Megali Prespa), picture-perfect lakeside villages, and a beautiful capital traversed by a river. There is quite a bit to see, and start off with the Archaeological Museum next to the Railway Station and the Art Gallery a few doors down.

Don’t leave until: Visiting the Modern Art Museum and the House of Voyiatzis, checking out the impressive “House of Peios,” and the Turkish Baths, sitting at one of the hive cafes of Melas Pedestrian St for a coffee and local sweet, and trying unique local produce- including the famous sweet red peppers, and Prespa beans.

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Relax and Recharge at Nefeli Nine Retreat

Relax, recharge and reinvigorate yourself in just a few days at Nefeli Nine Retreat, located just an hour’s drive from Athens city centre.

The renowned retreat offers tailored experiences to meet all personal situations or goals — whether you’re in need of a fitness boost, peaceful sleep, nutrition advice, or relaxation and refocusing, Nefeli Nine is the ideal place to help you create a life-changing journey specific to you and your goals.

Insights Greece - Relax and Recharge at Nefeli Nine Retreat

And it’s not just the personalised programs that will help you unwind — many features of the retreat were created with Ancient Greek design principles in mind to help you to disconnect and detox.

Found in Dikastika, in the Attica region, the location will enchant you by transporting you through its unspoiled beauty, rural scenery and historical monuments. Here you can indulge in pure R&R at a traditional villa with panoramic views of the sea.

We recently spoke with founder Stephanie Contomichalos, about her successful health and wellness retreat, which can quickly take you away from the hustle and bustle of the city and treat your mind and body to much-needed TLC.

When did Nefeli Nine Retreat open and what was the concept behind it?

I started Nefeli Nine in 2018. I grew up in the UK and would spend every summer and Easter in Greece with my grandparents. In 2016 I moved here and completely fell in love with Athens. It is a young, vibrant city, the weather is fantastic, and nature is very easy to access. It ticked every box. Nefeli Nine was really born from two things: My love for Greece, coupled with my love for nature and sports. Health and fitness have always been important to me, so it felt very natural to combine all the things I love and to share that with other people.

Why do you think Greece is a great destination for healing?

What is so special about Greece is its simplicity, the colours, the food, the traditions all play a huge role in what makes Greece so unique. Having grown up in London I really started to appreciate the simple things; the concept of eating seasonal food (which is totally alien in London where we eat mangoes and raspberries all year round), the pure joy of just being outside on a hiking trail, and the beauty of all the traditions.

Why did you chose Dikastika as the spot where you would open your retreat?

I had a few criteria, but the most important ones were that it was close to mountains and sea, easily accessed and yet gave you a feeling of being far away. Dikastika ticked every box. It is right on the sea, facing Evia island with beautiful views of the Aegean and is very close to the mountains. Despite its proximity to town, the thing that I really love about this area is the feeling of being in a small seaside village.

Dikastika will enchant you by transporting you through its unspoiled beauty, rural scenery and historical monuments to a glorious past. Located very close to Marathon (yes 26 miles from Athens!) the area is rich in history… from the famous battle of the Greeks versus Persians, the birthplace of the Marathon and you can even still visit the city of Rhamnous, a well-preserved and ancient citadel dating from 400BC. During your time at Nefeli Nine, we will explore these ancient wonders and get lost amid pieces of living history.

What benefits can guests expect after visiting Nefeli Nine?

My main goal for guests is for them to leave feeling completely relaxed and refreshed. We aim to not ask any questions of people during their stay with us (other than whether they want us to bring tea or coffee to their room in the morning!) and all activities are optional. We do not push people. We hope that a week of fresh air, good food and exercise leaves them feeling revitalized and ready to go when they leave.

Nefeli Nine was designed to give people a true break from the stresses of their everyday lives, to spend a week by the sea, hiking, eating well, moving well and enjoying the company of others. Clients have the opportunity to experience Greek traditions, see some lesser-known archaeological sites, eat delicious seasonal food, and take a few days off from having any obligations. They leave feeling mentally relaxed and physically raring to go!

What is the busiest time of year for you and when do you recommend people visit?

We run retreats in Spring (April – June) and Autumn (September – November). These are my favourite times of the year, the weather tends to be lovely, there are less tourists and you get to truly enjoy Greece and all that it has to offer.

Tell us about the healthy dishes you prepare for guests and the local produce you use.

Coming from a Greek and Middle Eastern background, the table has always been an especially important place for me. When I was younger, I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my grandmother watching her cook and taking notes, and then the whole family would sit together and share the food. This is very much a concept that I encourage at Nefeli Nine.

Everything I prepare is locally sourced and using seasonal ingredients. We buy our honey from a local beekeeper (who I actually found on a hike), our fruits and vegetables all come from local farmers’ markets, and even our wine and olive oil are produced within the area.

The concept behind Nefeli Nine is based on the Blue Zones Lifestyle, and this also applies to all of the food that we prepare. We can cater to vegans and vegetarians, but we promote a predominantly plant-based diet, supplemented by organic lean meat and fresh fish. We avoid all processed sugars, chemicals and additives, but we do offer delicious homemade sweets.

What fitness classes can guests participate in?

We offer yoga, mobility, and bodyweight fitness classes. We tend to adjust these classes depending on our clients. For those who are looking for more we can organize watersports activities (windsurf, SUP, waterskiing and wakeboarding) nearby.

Are the programs designed for people of all fitness levels?

The Nefeli Nine program has been carefully designed so that people of all levels can join. Our hikes have been chosen so that everyone can participate and there are always at least two guides allowing people to walk at different paces. All our yoga and mobility classes can be adjusted accordingly. We will never leave anybody behind, nor will we leave those looking for more of a harder workout feeling unchallenged!

Tell us more about the hikes.

All our hikes offer wonderful and surprisingly different experiences. Our hiking guides are very well-versed on the flora and fauna of the surrounding mountains and we always try to bring home some fresh herbs, mushrooms, wild greens or asparagus from our hikes.

Do you offer a more personalised program for guests?

We are deliberately small precisely so that we can be flexible and cater to everything from a couple who want to do something different and perhaps challenging, to a small group or family where we tailor different programs for people of different ages or fitness levels. If you are looking for the ‘one size fits all’ offering, then we may not be for you. If you want a bespoke product designed for your work team, family group or just the two of you, then we will rise to the challenge. We have a limit of 10 people.

Tell us more about the villas and the facilities available.

It’s a traditional stone villa, spotlessly clean and well-appointed so guests can truly relax. We have had to instill a program of daily rigorous cleansing and disinfecting so our guests can enjoy themselves without worry. Beds are firm, cushions and towels are fluffy, and you wake up with a view that puts you in a good mood for the rest of the day. There is a pool, there is WiFi, there are books and a variety of games, but the reality is you may just want to use the house for your downtime to recharge for the next day.

nefelinine

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Next Cycladic Stop, Poliegos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Poliegos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he writes about his first encounter with Poliegos. This personal story about Poliegos island is the sixth part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Poliegos

Oh, Poliegos. Thou art more lovely … Thoughts of Shakespeare’s Sonnet 18 come to mind when I contemplate how to speak of Poliegos.

I discovered the island on a trip in my inflatable across a coastal village in the north-east of Milos many years ago. Having free-dived the islets of Agios Efstathios and Agios Georgios in the area it also shares with Kimolos, I felt a natural curiosity to explore.

On the western coastline that morning, the sea a depth of a blue unusual outside the Mediterranean, I first reached Manolis Islet, its protective form sheltering, at least partially, the three beaches inside Espano Mersini Bay. Southwards along Cape Pounda, until the bay of Kato Mersini, all was fine.

Poliegos was charming, its verdant, convex hillsides extending up mountains with intricate geometrical shapes, their soil and rock a mix of red, orange, yellow and brown. But from Cape Zios, the scenery changed quite dramatically, and by Skala Grigoriou, with its mining track just a few metres above water extending to a docking point directly over a patch of emerald-turquoise perfection, I thought I was hallucinating.

Upon reaching Kalogiros rock I could take no more, so magnificent was it all. Really, I’d never seen anything like it. Rocks shaped like pyramids metres-high and rising out of water so azure it put the sky to shame.

A beach hidden in isolation, three metres in length, one metre in width, was covered by the finest white sand and had as its backdrop a wall of differing colours, extending sharply upwards at least a hundred metres, the sea in front of it like a lake. Not a soul in sight.

I moored the boat and prepared to dive, the first of many memorable immersions around the island over several years, often concluding after sunset when there’s still a lot of water to cross to get back to Pollonia.

The Pyrgi Channel between Poliegos and Kimolos frequently intensifies waves, causing me stress as I’m forced to take them on the starboard side, with a probability of capsizing. The only successful way to manoeuvre is to position the bow partially into the oncoming force, ride over it as if it’s a hurdle, only to confront the next within moments.

With hundreds of waves none ever the same but each ready to provoke a serious mistake, it was usually a miracle to be back on dry land.

markwilman.com

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Next Cycladic stop, Folegandros

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Folegandros.

Discovering the Beauty of Folegandros

Every visit to Folegandros is an adventure for me: the climbs, the dives, the treks, the views. One trip remains distinct: my search for big groupers. As a freediver, the Cyclades waters are truly a dream, their turquoise and blues encouraging calm.

It began in Ambeli Bay up in the north. Late afternoon the day I arrived the sunlight was September orange. No one was there. Swimming past an island of rocks made of extensions like a village of steeples submerged, I went on till it got dark, deep and lonely.

This was the place. Watching for signs, I inhaled a last time and descended into the depths kicking my fins and pinching my nose for my ears, my eyes scrutinising the view upside down. I’d done it before on many occasions though not here, not in Folegandros. The current was strong, a warning for sure, too strong for safety, I decided.

Vorina, my choice next day, again to the north just beyond Hora, follows a single slim path through high golden grass over terracing so sheer the return’s a question for much of the way.

Once by the sea, I glanced back to where I’d started from, not thinking I’d see the car so far away. So on with the gear and into the waves my search for big groupers continued. Swimming where the village is perched with Panaghia still higher took time, my metre-long fins doing their best all the way.

What seemed close was far. And then I saw it static in front, except for its wings, unperturbed. The closer I got, the more it appeared it would leave in a flash, but it didn’t. The grouper remained there, curious.

At an arm’s length away, I ceased all movement. We stared at each other, two creatures from earth, sharing the same facial features, though mine hidden, except for eyes that she trusted. A minute went by, what should I do? We’d looked at each other acceptingly; that was enough.

Reluctantly leaving after a blink, the sound of a boat approaching came, loud voices onboard to adding to the noise. Turning a corner, I saw them in front, thrashing around, voicing their excitement with glee.

On I went as quick as I could back to the beach where I’d started. It took ages. Arriving at night, the search for my stuff by the light of a torch began.

All packed away and ready to climb with no energy left I felt laden. The path in the dark, a vertical challenge not to forget, was exhausting. But what an experience.

Mark Wilman Photography

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9 Top Rafting Experiences in Greece

As the weather grows chilly, only winter swimmers dare to plunge into the water, but that doesn’t mean we should give up on the fun of aquatic sports. With fantastic rivers around the mainland of Greece, rafting is an adrenaline-pumping activity that often requires little to no experience.

There are numerous professional adventure sports companies that arrange rafting expeditions for individuals or groups and all you need to do is slip into a wet suit and follow a few basic instructions before hopping into a dinghy. Some added bonuses to the fun – being immersed in stunning, rich natural landscapes that include amazing flora and fauna, waterfalls, springs, rock formations and bridges, exploring the surrounding region and making new friends. Here’s a guide to Greece’s best rafting destinations.

River: Aliakmonas

Region: Macedonia

Greece’s longest river (300km) starts in Nestorio, Kastoria. Herons, falcons, storks, eagles and ducks populate the verdant area, where you’ll also admire Meteora-like towering sandstone rocks. The 6km route (3.5 hours), which usually starts at Fellos village, is ideal for beginners and families. According to Greek mythology, Aliakmonas was a river god.

River: Aoos

Region: Konitsa

This somewhat challenging, 15km (4-5 hours) route starts at Aoos bridge (somewhere in the middle of Palioseli and Vrisohori villages), passing the green gorge and concluding at the picturesque, 20m high Konitsa bridge. Unlike any other river in the country, Aoos flows outside the Greek borders. If you want to enjoy a smaller, easier trip (1.5 hours) along the river you can arrange to raft from the Monastery of Stomio region, or follow an hour’s route that starts from the bridge of Bourazana, passing the ruins of Mesogefyra bridge and ending near the monastery of Molyvdoskepasti.

River: Arachthos

Region: Tzoumerka

This river too can be experienced via two different routes (2 hours or 4 hours). One takes you through the narrow gorge of Arachtos past steep rock walls that are 700m high. The route includes a stop at Glyki waterfall with its lovely – and very swimmable – pond. You’ll also pass the beautiful Plaka bridge, which used to be one of the largest of its kind in the Balkans, mountain springs and lush vegetation, and if you’re lucky can do some bird-spotting.

River: Evinos M

Region: Nafpaktia

Another great choice for rafting beginners, this 10m route (2 hours) the relatively calm river, which sources from Vardoussia, starts at Poros bridge, passing the beautiful Hani Bania bridge – and the Olympic kayak slalom course – going in a circle and concluding at Hani Bania again.

Rivers: Loussios – Alfios

Region: Arcadia

A slightly more demanding rafting ride, this 8km (2 hours) route is one of the most scenic in Greece. The route starts at Atsicholos takes you through tunnels of trees, white limestone cliffs and a lush, a long narrow gorge, past beautiful arched bridges and natural springs. Trekking Hellas concludes the journey at the spectacular bridge of “Koukos” from where you can hike to a nearby waterfall. According to Greek mythology, Lousios is the river where Zeus had his first bath, while Alfios river, the longest in the Peloponnese, was named after a god.

River: Nestos

Region: Drama

This generally safe, shallow river is one of Greece’s five largest (234km) and favoured by rafting and canoeing fans. You can choose between the longer route (around 4 hours in total) that starts at Arkoudorema-Nestos and concludes at Paranesti or take the easier route (1,5 hours) that starts at the Platanovrysis Dam and ends at Paranesti.

River: Tavropos

Region: Εvritania

A great option for beginners and not only, this naturally stunning 10km (2 hours) route starts either at Gavreniti bridge or a little further along at Palia Viniani, with a stop at the lovely Viniani waterfalls and ends at the Megdova bridge.

River: Venetikos

Region: Grevena

You can choose between a medium difficulty route and a harder route, in a 2 or 4 hour trip. The trickiest part of this river is between the bridges of Trikomo and Spanos. You’ll raft through lush vegetation and past splendid 16th and 17th century stone bridges. Some excursions take you past a double arched bridge that was once part of the railway and the three arched bridge of Aziz Aga, the largest of its kind in Macedonia.

River: Voidomatis

Region: Zagori, Epirus

A 5km (1.5 hours) route in the heart of the Vikos – Aoos National Park, Voidomatis is considered one of the easiest to raft along, making it ideal for younger people and beginners. Starting from the beautiful Aristi stone bridge and ending at Kleidonia Bridge, you’ll get to enjoy some of the clearest and cleanest river waters in Europe.

*Main image via Argo Travel

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Veria: Greece’s Charming Town Bursting With Rich History

If you are looking to visit a beautiful town that is bursting with rich history, culture, museums and archaeological sites, look no further than Veria.

Part One | History

By Eleni Orfanidou

Located in Macedonia, it is set on the foothills of Mount Vermion and crossed by the River Tripotamo. From the 11th to the 14th century it was the third most important city of the Byzantine Empire, after Constantinople and Thessaloniki.

Now known as “Little Jerusalem,” the city is filled with an impressively large number of Byzantine, post-Byzantine churches as well as lots of archaeological sites and historical museums.

Here is a list of must-see places for when you visit!

Insights Greece - Veria: Greece's Charming Town Bursting With Rich History — Step of the Apostle Paul

Religious Sites

Step of the Apostle Paul is a historical monument of global interest and a source of religious tourism for the city. Every season of the year people from all over the world arrive in Veria to see up close the traces of Apostolos’ tour.

Agios Patapios was the center of ancient, but also of the early Christian Veria, as it was located on the east side of the main road, which led from the north gate of the fortified enclosure inside the ancient city. The most extensive ensemble was excavated in the ruins of buildings of the Roman period, which provides a very important picture of the organization of the city during the early Christian period. Discovered here were parts of a building complex with extensive mosaic floors, an early Christian baptistery, as well as part of the diocese.

Byzantine churches

Veria is known for its numerous Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches (about 48 surviving today) and 72 originally, resulting in the name of a ‘Small Jerusalem’, as well as unique collections of Byzantine icons. Particularly famous is the Church of the Resurrection. Other important temples are the Church of St. John the Theologian (13th century), the Church of Saints Kirikos and Ioulitis (16th century) and the Church of Saints Peter and Paul (11th century.) Make sure to pay a visit to the church of Panagia Dexia, built in the 19th century, in place of a former church of the 14th century. Take a look at the easternmost surviving sector of the former church where you can gaze upon the sanctuary’s niche and wall paintings.

Jewish Synagogue

The Jewish Quarter was built in 1850 and is located next to the Tripotamos River, boasting cobblestone streets and grand mansions. It is one of the oldest Synagogues in Europe and in the heart of the Jewish quarter is Barbuta, the stone building of the Synagogue, with ornate interior decoration. Today it is closed and open only when Jewish people travel and come to pray. The Apostle Paul preached here when he visited the city in 51 and 57 AD.

Archaeological Sites

Vergina: A short distance from Veria is Vergina, built geographically on the site of the ancient Aigai, where the excellent archaeologist Manolis Andronikos excavated and discovered the ancient tomb of King Philip V. The modern underground museum of Vergina is astonishing. Royal tombs and exhibits from the entire history of Macedonia are found here. At the Royal Tombs Museum, you can admire many findings and wall paintings in an impressive underground construction. Philip II’s tomb and the magnificent golden urn are the items that stand out.

Museums

Byzantine Museum: The prosperity of Veria during the Byzantine era is presented in every detail. It is housed in the old Mill of Markos, near the city walls. Finds include mosaics, manuscripts, pottery, wood carvings and coins.

Archaeological Museum: Recently renovated, it attracts enormous archaeological interest from all over the world and offers a flashback to the rich past of Veria, while referring to the historical grandeur of the Ancient City of those years. In the three rooms of the Museum one can see findings from the Paleolithic era to the period of Ottoman rule.

Museum of Education: There is a permanent exhibition, which presents the evolution of education and its teaching aids in Greece, from the time of waxed plates, parchments, ancient ink and conveyors to the age of notebooks, desks and computers.

Museum of Modern History and Art: Known as Vlachogiannio, it exhibits in a unique way the flourishing of art and the progress of modern history in this place.

Folklore Museum: It is housed in the old mansion of Sarafoglou. The museum focuses on the folklore of the area, highlighting the rich history of the habits of the inhabitants of Veria. The material of the museum is of astonishing interest, while at the same time it is housed inside an old mansion, which allows you to see the architecture of the city inside.

Vlach Folklore Museum: The Museum is housed in a listed building next to Orologiou Square, highlighting the cultural heritage of the Vlachs. In the museum there are exhibits with traditional costumes, rich photographic material and a collection of traditional material related to the Vlach tradition of the area. The purpose of the museum is the preservation, promotion and dissemination of elements of Vlach culture. For this reason, events are held in the area accompanied by traditional music.

*Eleni Orfanidou is a school teacher who was born and raised in Veria and is very proud of the local traditions, culture and history of her home town. Over the coming weeks, Eleni will be sharing with IN+SIGHTS GREECE readers what to see and do when visiting Veria.

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Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Sifnos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Sifnos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. Here he writes about his first encounter with Sifnos island. This personal story about Sifnos is the next part of a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE.

Discovering the Beauty of Sifnos I escaped the day I arrived that first time in Sifnos having already paid for a room with a view in scenic Kamares. The intention had been to dive, setting up the inflatable boat there in the port, but without hoisting equipment it couldn’t be achieved. There were no sections close enough to water level to follow the usual procedure where I’d walk with the engine into the sea and attach it to the stern. This meant those extraordinary rocky inlets and bays on the island’s western side, the ones seen from ferries, were now inaccessible.

Elsewhere, the roads always ended at breathtaking sandy beaches, each entailing excessive swimming to reach areas of depth where marine life would be sufficiently evolved. The tiny, deeply-set, ancient port of Hersonissos in the north was the only exception, and I swam outwards in the direction of the open sea for a couple of hours until it became clear that my return would be difficult and exhausting if the current picked up. So I left defeated, not returning for twelve years.

We returned in June when I was photographing for my project. Much of the emphasis had, in the early stages, been placed on Roxana, the female figure in my photos, with a quite remarkable result. The centrepiece of the work, Lost Lady Of Sikinos, Neiko, had seen us anticipate by two years one of the most significant findings in modern Greek archeological history at the exact location, following the precise theme: the tomb of a noblewoman buried hermetically beneath the interior of the monumental church of Episkopi in a remote part of Sikinos in the 2nd century A.D. Orientation was now focused entirely on researching landscapes and sea views without transportation, just on foot, to capture as much detail as possible. We trekked over 300km around Sifnos; through valleys, up hills and over mountains. The ancient mining area at Achladas Bay, where Agios Sostis church stands on the island’s north-eastern side was fascinating, its wide-step antiquated path an experience in itself.

Mark Wilman Photography

Insights Greece - Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Sifnos

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Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Milos

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Milos.

Mark’s project has been presented by the British Embassy in Greece, the Greek Embassies in Rome and Tel Aviv and the Aquarium of Milan. His evocative photography and writing transport you to the heart of the Cycladic culture, landscapes and colours. And if you want to experience it for yourself, he is available to offer photographic tours. This personal story about Milos is the fourth in a narrative series created by him especially for IN+SIGHTS GREECE that will run over the next few weeks.

Insights Greece - Cycladic Diaries of a Photographer: Next stop, Milos

Discovering the Beauty of Milos

Too tough on the car, too rough on the tyres, that’s the west of Milos. The sun in my face, I drove at a pace so slow it went on for hours. Lonely but lovely Agkathia bay as far away as it is; twice I was there under the glare, standing where once there were flowers.

It really is a beautiful place and next time I’ll stay for longer. For some reason it’s been a late afternoon arrival both times, and the road does take that much effort.

I finned my way to Sykia cave along from Agios Ioannis, its miniature beach is well out of reach to most of its passersby, and its hole in the roof is natural proof of beauty under the sky. When I got there, people did stare, wondering “No boat?” I stayed for a while offering a smile, but then they were gone, by a mile. The location is simply amazing with its entrance through a rockface into an interior bay that has its own beach, and that skylight view through the hole overhead.

Along the way to Kleftiko, the arch in the sea in the south, the road played a joke so there was no hope of getting to where I’d planned. To the right I steered, then a left appeared which led me back … to the sand.

I didn’t try that one again though it was an enjoyable trip along the coast on an unpaved road that was under construction at the time.

One place I’m enchanted by is this enormous rock with its humpback form separate from Milos by only a few miles. I’ve walked and climbed and crawled through mines there looking for clues from the past; the air was cold, the tracks were old, but bold was I in the dark.

Erimomilos, or Antimilos, is the isle of my dreams for fishing. It’s so far away but maybe one day… Until then I’ll just go on wishing.

Mark Wilman

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48 Hours in Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city is a place where history, culture, hospitality, and gastronomy meet. It’s a destination that caters to all and will definitely satisfy any taste.

Even though 48 hours is not enough to fully experience the beauty of Greece’s co-capital, the guide below highlights the best things you can do during a weekend getaway or a few days’ stay.

DAY 1

Morning

Kick-start your day by trying the most popular delicacy in Thessaloniki, the ‘bougatsa’ pastry, which consists of cream, cheese, or minced meat between the different phyllo layers. Thessaloniki has the best’ bougatsa’ I have ever tried. Make sure to visit Yannis at Mitropoleos Street to enjoy this slice of heaven. It’s a small, local pastry shop, always serving fresh bougatsa and other delicacies.

Then, head over to Aristotelous Square, the most central part of the city. Olympion, one of Thessaloniki’s cultural landmarks is also a must-visit.

After your morning coffee and bougatsa, it’s time to explore! Start with visiting Kapani and Modiano, traditional markets, where merchants used to arrive from the Mediterranean. The markets are still vibrant to this day, giving this part of the city the essence of a bygone era.

Louloudadika is another stop you have to make. It means ‘flower area’ in Greek and got its’ name from the florists that gathered here. There are plenty of restaurants and cafes and you will come across the old Ottoman baths called ‘Yahudi Hamami,’ and are now used to host cultural exhibitions.

Insights Greece - 48 Hours in Thessaloniki — *Aristotelous Square*

Midday

Go to Aficionados restaurant in the Kalamaria suburb to get a taste of excellent cuisine; Mediterranean flavours with sophisticated twists, it’s set in a beautiful, renovated historic villa.

Afternoon

Walk down Nikis Street, one of the main strips, and have a coffee in one of the many cafes overlooking the sea. Café Nikis 35 is one of my favourites, as it’s a laid-back place where the locals go.

Later on, continue walking on Nikis Street, towards the famous White Tower, which was once used for the city’s fortification, and is now a museum.

Early Evening

If you are still up for some more strolling, continue walking at Nea Paralia until you reach ‘Ompreles,’ the beautiful piece of art made by Greek artist Georgios Zogolopoulos. At the golden hour, it looks mesmerising – don’t forget to take a photo!

Make sure to try one more delicacy that will excite your taste buds; ‘trigona.’ It’s a local specialty that consists of layers of phyllo filled with cream and folded into a triangle shape. Elenidis in Dimitriou Gounari street has the best trigona in Thessaloniki!

Late night

The word ‘night’ in Thessaloniki is well-connected to the area of Ladadika, where the nightlife pulse beats. Ladadika is full of tavernas that serve excellent food accompanied by live music and bars where you can continue afterwards, for drinks and cocktails.

DAY 2

Morning

Start your day by buying a ‘koulouri‘ from a street vendor, the famous bread ring covered in sesame, and get ready for some exploring.

Wander around the most picturesque area of Thessaloniki, Ano Poli; approximately a 20-30 min walk from Aristotelous Square. Ano Poli is located on the highest point of the city, in Agios Dimitrios, and is a place that escaped the devastating 1917 fire. Get lost in the little alleys and travel back in time while taking in the peaceful atmosphere and beautiful views.

Nearby lies the UNESCO World Heritage Site Agios Nikolaos Orfanos Church and also, the Trigonion Tower.

If you are a culture aficionado, then pay a visit to the Teloglion Foundation of Art. Created in 1972, the Museum showcases works of significant Greek and European artists of the 19th and 20th centuries and a library that features a variety of books.

Alternatively, you can visit the Museum of Byzantine Culture, the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, where you can find artifacts, mosaics, and sculptures, or the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art.

When in Thessaloniki, it’s worth enjoying pleasant walks by the sea. Start from Pier A, also known as ‘Apothikes,’ where old warehouses serve as venues for the Thessaloniki Film Festival. There, you can also visit the Thessaloniki Cinema Museum and Museum of Photography. If you wish to take a quick break, go to Kitchen Bar, a café-restaurant overlooking the sea.

Midday

For some delicious fish bites, head to the suburb of Kalamaria for lunch. There are plenty of tavernas offering great food. Alternatively, go to Duck restaurant, a family-owned place that serves excellent food, has lovely décor and an open kitchen.

Afternoon

Head back to the city and go to Diatiriteo or Enohes for a Greek coffee or Frappe. They’re retro, amazingly cute, and I’m sure you are going to love their vibe.

Early Evening

You must have learned by now that food in Thessaloniki plays a crucial role, and you simply have to taste everything! One more thing you should try is ‘tsoureki’- the sweet yeast bread- and more specifically, ‘tsoureki’ from Terkenlis, one of the oldest and most popular places in the city. If you are into chocolate, then take the tsoureki that is filled with chocolate. There are plenty of other options for you to choose from.

Later on, and if you love fashion, head to Tsimiski, Mitropoleos, and Proxenou Koromila streets, the main shopping streets.

Late night

Being in Thessaloniki and not enjoying a night out is a shame. Valaoritou Street is vibrant, with plenty of bars offering creative cocktails and drinks.

The city of Thessaloniki is a lovely place with amazing people, delicious food, and rich history. Enjoy your time here!

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Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on Kimolos.

Nafplio has been named Greece’s most romantic town, and for a good reason!

Greece is a beautiful destination to visit during each season. But we love exploring some of the prettiest towns here in the fall.

Relax, recharge and reinvigorate yourself in just a few days at Nefeli Nine Retreat, located just an hour’s drive from Athens city centre.

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Poliegos.

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip on the island of Folegandros.

As the weather grows chilly, only winter swimmers dare to plunge into the water, but that doesn’t mean we should give up on the fun of aquatic sports. With fantastic rivers around the mainland of Greece, rafting is an adrenaline-pumping activity that often requires little to no experience.

If you are looking to visit a beautiful town that is bursting with rich history, culture, museums and archaeological sites, look no further than Veria.

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Sifnos.

Philhellene photographer Mark Wilman, creator of a successful six-year project and book ‘Discovering The Beauty of the Cyclades’ describes his first trip with Milos.

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city is a place where history, culture, hospitality, and gastronomy meet. It’s a destination that caters to all and will definitely satisfy any taste.

DAY 1

DAY 2

The Athens Guide