Thrace Archives - Insights Greece

Grizo & Prasino: Organic Tea Experts

Grizo & Prasino is a family, all-things-tea-related business run by husband and wife Kostas and Aggeliki, from their botanical farm in Thrace. The seed for this idea was planted almost a decade ago and the couple took its first steps towards making it happen right after their wedding day! We recently had a chat with the duo to discover their story.

Tell me more about yourself and your company Grizo & Prasino!

In 2012, Kostas and I got married and we spent the money that our family and friends gave us for the wedding to buy the equipment for our first business (similar to Grizo & Prasino) called ‘Drogi Biological Herbs’.

Insights Greece - Grizo & Prasino: Organic Tea Experts

As an agriculture engineer, Kostas had a personal interest in herbs and aromatic plants since 2008- I have vivid memories of his enthusiasm each time he would taste a new herb. I also had a bee in my bonnet for their medicinal properties and read every book under the sun about them. At the same time, we run our separate businesses, I, as a lawyer and Kostas, as an Organic Farming consultant. It was these jobs that would fuel the bank and allow us to make our hobby happen and turn it into a business. In 2016, things changed with the arrival of our baby. Our time was limited so we decided to turn into business coaching to get more information about running a business and how this hobby of ours could potentially turn into our full-time income source.

In 2017, after a serious health issue, I decided to leave my career in law and so Grizo & Prasino was born at the end of the same year. Since then many things have changed – the way we work, the time we dedicated to the farm, and even our original goals! We grow as our business grows and we learn from our mistakes. Thankfully we make plenty of them!

How did it feel when you had your first sale?

I cannot remember much about our first sale however what I do remember is that by the time our website went live in December 2017, we were exhausted! We had spent so much time building our branding strategy, setting up the website and clearly communicating who we are, our vision and values; that when we started receiving positive feedback from our friends and loved ones we felt pride, happiness and an impatience to see where this would lead us.

Where in Rodopi do you go foraging?

Wild foraging at a commercial level could be harmful to nature so we have our own farm where we cultivate the herbs we use. We steer away from practices that would potentially damage the environment and our customers. Take as an example the case of Malotira in Crete, the famous Cretan tea that is nearly extinct due to over-foraging. Then, there is always the matter of quality consistency. With wild foraging you cannot control certain parameters such as the rainfall and the conditions of the top and sub-soil, that affect the taste, flavour and therapeutical properties of the herbs.

What do you love more about this job?

We both followed our dream, quit our day jobs and turned our hobby into our business, working every day on something that we both love. It wasn’t an easy task but our love for botanology and herbs gives us the strength to keep going. There is an innumerable number of products that could be based on herbs and I am not even sure if one life is enough to learn all about them and apply them to our products. Grizo & Prasino allows us to be creative, to constantly think of new ideas and make them happen. It is also a job that brings us closer to nature as we spend plenty of time on the farm. But beyond everything else, it is a job that allows us to produce commodities that helps others and makes their life better. We don’t just sell stuff, we believe in their magic, too!

How has your life changed since Grizo and Prasino?

I am not going to bore you with the details but, as I mentioned, I used to be a lawyer so you could say that life has changed massively ever since. I no longer chase deadlines nor do I have to support cases I am not agreeing with. I am not visiting the farm as frequently as Kostas does but when I do it does me good and I it lifts my spirit. As for Kostas, even though he is an agriculture engineer and working as a consultant for all those years, he too found himself getting out of the office more than he used to. If you knew Kostas in real life, you would see that the outdoors suit him more than the office. He loves agroecology and trying new practices for our farm. Some of those practices look outdated but they are far from it! He is always on the hunt for new practices and techniques that are applied on other farms in Greece and abroad. It is a very creative process and come to think of it, creating a farm is like painting on a larger scale, isn’t it?

What are your top places around Komotini to reconnect with nature?

We love the little village of Pandroso and the beach of Molyvoti (also known as Kursumlu). Those are the first places that come to mind when we need to get some fresh air and enjoy the great outdoors. Rodopi is full of interesting places to visit and it is truly amazing how there are still so many pristine and unspoiled spots to explore.

Last but not least, what are your favourite Grizo and Prasino tea flavours and
which flavour one must definitely try?

My preferences vary with the change of seasons. Around this time of the year, I like to drink the “exhale” (sage, pergamot and juniper root), but before that, I frantically drank “mantarili” (mandarin, honeysuckle and chamomile). However, the flavour that I love and keep going back to again and again is the “xana & xana” (rosemary, althaea and louiza) with no sugar, please. Kostas’s favourite is the “orange tzitzimenta” (mint, ginger and orange) and he believes it’s the best of our creations! I guess he is a mint kind of guy as he also likes “pu & pu” (mint, sage and calendula) no sugar for him either.

Images by Anna Paraskevidou- art traces ©

Visiting Fanari, a Magnificent Seaside Village in Rodopi

Seaside villages such as Fanari, in northern Greece are often overlooked by sun-seekers heading to the islands. Barring the classic blue domes of the Aegean and the Italian-influenced architecture of the Ionian islands, travelling to northern Greece is a whole different experience worth one’s time and urge to explore.

Once in Thrace, visitors will come upon rows of seaside hamlets and villages- think of whitewashed harbours, beach taverns and hilltop churches- ready to be ransacked by those who don’t like to leave any stone unturned.

A great example of this is the magnificent Fanari village in Rodopi.

Fanari, with its postcard-like appearance, is located in the southwest of the prefecture of Rodopi, in the centre of Thrace. The settlement has no more than 700 permanent residents but as it is positioned between the big cities of Xanthi and Komotini, it has fast become a tourist attraction something which is not going to change anytime soon!

Insights Greece - Visiting Fanari, a Magnificent Seaside Village in Rodopi

TOP THINGS TO DO IN FANARI

1. Visit Lake Vistonida

Adjacent to the village of Fanari is part of the famous Lake Vistonida, which circumscribes a unique ecosystem with several types of fish, mammals and birds. Driving through the highway from Komotini to Fanari, visitors can spot in Lake Vistonida a flamboyance of pink African flamingos and pelicans flying over from Lake Prespa, making Fanari the ideal destination for wild photography and bird watching, especially in late October when the flocks arrive.

2. Swim at one of Fanari’s beaches

Fanari is famous for its iconic blue flag beaches, a marker for environmental safety, and quality standards. Barakouda beach, the village’s main beach, is the place to go for a refreshing midday swim. Skala, the beach in front of the crowded promenade with the restaurants and cafés, is ideal for families and children playing whereas Ioulia beach, parallel to the main port of Fanari, is ideal for people with reduced mobility as a wheelchair ramp has recently been installed. In total, Fanari has five beaches and a coastline stretch that many Greek islands would be jealous of!

3. Fresh seafood at the port

Fanari has a plentiful of seaside restaurants and traditional taverns to serve you the best of seafood and fish. Whether you choose to sit at one in front of the promenade of the old harbour is totally up to you but our personal favourite is the traditional tavern ‘To Limani‘ (which in Greek literally means ‘The Harbour’). From here you can watch the fishing trawlers coming and going and the cats fighting for the remains of the catch of the day!

4. Sunset spotting

Skala is the best place for sunset spotting in Fanari. The wide, uninterrupted opening to the sea coupled with the changing sky colours reflected on the sea, makes this perfect for a romantic afternoon by the sea.

5. Coffee at the promenade

The best way to end your day in Fanari is to sit for a coffee at one of the promenade cafes. We recommend Daf Cafe for the sea views and Ioulia seaside café bar for the views of the port and the delicious beverages and cocktails. It also gets bonus points as it has access for people with mobility issues.

Fanari is not the place of glitz and glamour that makes headlines but it is definitely a place that will offer you the most nonchalant time ever!

Need more information about Fanari village? Have a look at the official website offering information on hotels, restaurants and more.

Images By Anastasia Fountouli ©

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“Eleftheria” Celebrations in Komotini

On the 14th of May 1920, Komotini was freed after centuries of Ottoman and Bulgarian occupation.

It was one of the last cities that joined the newly established Hellenic Republic after the country’s independence. To commemorate this, every year in May, the people of Komotini celebrate the Freedom of Thrace in a row of festivities called “The Eleftheria”. Starting on the second day of the month, the festivities last for 16 days with several events taking place around the city including traditional dances, exhibitions, feasts and more.

This year an extra special event takes place, the International Conference on the 100 Years of Komotini’s Freedom which was cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions for the past two years, consecutively.

Here is the program of anniversary events for the 102 Years of Freedom in detail.

Monday, May 2
8.00 p.m. In the streets of the city starting from the Tobacco Warehouse up to the square, bagpipers of the Laboratory of the House of Tradition and Folklore “Philotechnes” will play music across the city.

Tuesday, 3 May
8.30 p.m. Cultural Movement
Mikros Diakomos presents the play “Minotaur”.
It is a musical performance with elements of performance and dance.

Wednesday, 4 May
6.30 p.m. Read of the book “Deceiving Time” written by Anastasis Vistonitis at the local public library, Tsanakleios School organized by the Directorate of Secondary Education of Rodopi.

8.30 p.m. The Cultural Movement of Rodopi
organises a Jazz Concert with the 14-member Big Band “Allegro” under the direction of Nikos Ieronymos.

Thursday, 5 May
6.30 p.m. A presentation on “Konstantinos Karatheodori in Smyrna on the eve of the Asia Minor Catastrophe”. A history lesson presented by the Karatheodori Museum on the life, work and educational activities of Konstantinos Karatheodori, the famous Greek mathematician of Einstein. The event takes place at Tsanakleios School.

9.00 p.m. Live with the band “Endless Stream” at the city’s Central Square.

Friday, 6 May
10.00 a.m. The first GREEN FEST, a festival underlying the ecological issues are planet is currently facing, organised by The Youth and Volunteering Center “Exagono” of the Municipality of Komotini in collaboration with the Directorate of Primary Education of Rodopi and FOLLOW GREEN takes place. The event includes educational floor games and interactive actions for the environment such as the importance of recycling and the negative effects of sea pollution. The event is mainly for the students of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 8th, 9th and 13th High School of Komotini.
Moreover, vegan food cooked by the students of the Public vocational school of Komotini in collaboration with the Association for the Care of People with Special Needs “Agioi Theodoroi” will be available to the public.

07.00 p.m.
The formal opening of the Conference for the 100 years of Komotini’s Freedom with Konstantinos Hatzopoulos presenting “The entry of the Greek army in Thrace and the integration of the region in Greece”
The conference will take place at the Papanikolaou Foundation, from 6-8 May.

9.00 p.m. A live music concert – Tribute to the great composer Mikis Theodorakis with Giannis Kallaris “In the Dream the Balcony” will take place at the Komotini Summer Theater. The mixed choir of the Association of Evrites of “E.CHO” participates.

Saturday, May 7

9.30 a.m. The second day of the Conference for the 100 years of Komotini’s Freedom at Papanikolaou Foundation.

12.00 p.m. A presentation on “The 1st POCKET PARK IN KOMOTINI” at the Intersection of Vyronos and Makedonias streets.
The Municipal Council of Youth of Komotini with the Youth and Volunteering Center “Exagono” contribute to the transformation of an abandoned space into a cradle of greenery, a pocket of green! The members of the Municipal Council of Youth of Komotini, volunteers and citizens will meet at the site where the park will be created and will make the first tree and aromatic plants planting.

8.00 p.m.
Folklore dance groups from the area will dance under the music of the local band “Thrakomelo”.

8.30 p.m.
Myrsini Latzouraki Theatrical Workshop “On Stage” presents the play “Flight 1702 08, Kosovo” at DIPETHE Komotinis.

9.00 p.m.
The “Evmolpos” Choir under the direction of Mr. Sakis Vargemetzidis will sing at the Cultural Movement.

Sunday, May 8
9.30 a.m.
Last day of the Conference for the 100 years of Komotini’s Freedom at Papanikolaou Foundation.

9.00 a.m.
The Youth and Volunteering Center “Exagono” in collaboration with the Mountaineering Association of Komotini and the Panhellenic Association of Foresters and Natural Environment Managers, plan educational hiking on the beautiful and picturesque trails in the areas of Nymfaia, Parcharia, Neromuloi. The meeting point where the excursion will start is The Great Heroon (Spathi). During the hike, a representative from the Forest Service will share with the participants their knowledge and useful information regarding the flora of the forest. After the hike, there will be a climbing demonstration at the Symbols. The action is supported by the Greek Red Cross.

11.00 a.m.
The House of Culture, Tradition and Folklore “Philotechnes” celebrates World Dance Day at the courtyard of I.N. Annunciation of the Virgin.

8.30 p.m.
Myrsini Latzouraki Theatrical Workshop “On Stage” presents the play “Flight 1702 08, Kosovo” at DIPETHE Komotinis.

Monday, May 9
6.00 p.m. “Exagon” in collaboration with the Ecological Group of Rodopi, grO2be and the ORGANIZATION EARTH is planning an open dialogue about Nature for those with ecological concerns. The event takes place at Pandrosos Museum of Natural History.

06.00 p.m.
Opening of an exhibition of Thracian artists at Papanikolaou Foundation. The exhibition will last until the 14th of May.

6.30 p.m.
Tribute to the Mayors of Epirus of Komotini at the Tsanakleios School.

Tuesday, 10 May
10:00 a.m. At the Vegetable Gardens of Komotini (OAED)
“Exagono” in collaboration with the GI (Earth) Organization, the Spores of Rodopi and the support of environmental organizations of the city, plan the “From the field to the plate in a sustainable way”, an interactive way for people to learn more about food production and waste.

7.30 p.m.
Presentation of the novel “Tracca The Witch of Thrace” by Nagia Dalakoura in collaboration with KLEIDARITHMOS publications and the DIMOKRITIO bookstore at the Byzantine castle of Komotini.
Marika Pournara, a local lawyer, will talk about the book.

8.30 p.m.
Traditional song concert with Theodosis Abatzianis
“With two homelands in the heart,” A journey to the ends of the Universe guided by the song at the central square of Komotini.

Wednesday, 11 May
6.00 p.m.
Annual photo exhibition of the Photographic Group of Komotini at the Tobacco warehouse. The exhibition will last until the 18th of May.

7.00 p.m.
Festive Byzantine Music live concert at the Papanikolaou Foundation in collaboration with the Association of Friends of Byzantine Music of the Metropolis of Maronia.

8.30 p.m. REX
Concert with Zoe Tiganourias and Michalis Sourvinos. The two distinguished soloists masterfully combine the sounds of their musical instruments (accordion & guitar) in a program based on the Nuevo Tango of Argentina (celebrating the 100th anniversary of the birth of the unique Astor Piazzolla), but also in masterpieces of great composers from Europe and America to their own compositions. Stelios Generalis also participates in percussion.

Thursday, 12 May
6.30 p.m.
Book presentation for “The first rains” by Spyros Kiosse at the Tsanakleios School.
Tassos grew up in a popular provincial neighborhood of Komotini in the late ’70s, a transitional period for Greek society. A short story about adulthood, with all the innocence and tragedy that characterizes the most critical period of human life.

7.30 p.m.
“1922 -2022: 100 years since the Asia Minor catastrophe” at the Papanikolaou Foundation. Speech by Mr. Nikolaos Intzesiloglou, Emeritus Professor of History, Philosophy and Sociology of Law.

9.00 p.m.
“Here to stay” is a live concert with the magnificent Eleftheria Arvanitaki at the central square.

Friday, 13 May
10:30 a.m.
Official raising of the historic flag of the city by the Mayor of Komotini, Ioannis Garanis at the Central Heroon (Spathi). Representatives of the Local Government, the authorities of the XXI Armored Brigade and the Honorary Military Procession will be present. A Memorial prayer and laying of wreaths will follow.

07.00 p.m.
Reception of the holy icon of the Mother of God of the holy monastery of Panagia Faneromeni Vathyrryakos.
Reception of the icon and its procession to the Holy Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Theotokos of Komotini, where a vespers with a bread class will be held.

8.00 p.m.
Folklore dance groups will dance under the melody of the band “Orpheus”.

9.00 p.m.
Speech about the Freedom of Thrace by Prof. Angelos Palikidis, Associate Professor of History Teaching, Department of History & Ethnology, Democritus University of Thrace at the Papanikolaou Foundation.

Saturday, 14 May
7.00 a.m. Doxology at the Holy Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Virgin. After the eulogy, the solemnity of the day will be recited. Laying of wreaths at the Central Heroon and a parade of The Cultural Organizations, the students, the Armed Forces and the Greek Police will follow.

8.00 a.m.
2nd “Brevert Eleftheria Thrace” 2022 at the Central Square. The event with the international code title “Brevet Eleftheria Thrace” has received an official license to organize events Brevets de Randonneurs Mondiaux (BRM) and has been part of the official international calendar ACP program since September 2020. It concerns the crossing of 210 km through many five local houses and five different municipalities (Municipality of Komotini, Municipality of Arriana, Municipality of Maronia Sapon, Municipality of Vistonida, Municipality of Iasmos) in two Regional Associations of Rodopi and Xanthi.

8.00 p.m.
Dance groups are accompanied by the band “Lalitades of Rodopi” at Central Square.

Sunday, 15 May
11.00 a.m. At the west entrance of Panthrakikos Stadium, the Equestrian Club of Komotini is waiting for the public to show them their four-legged friends.

9.00 p.m.
Concert with Georgia Ntagaki at the Central Square.
With her beautiful melodies, songs and lyre, Georgia Ntagaki travels and enchants the people of Komotini with her band.

Monday, 16 May
7.30 p.m.
Since 1977 the International Museum Council has been organizing the International Museum Day at the Folklore Museum of Komotini. The aim of this year’s theme of celebration “The Power of Museums” is to highlight the role of museum spaces in the issue of Mental Health in the difficult times of modern society.

Tuesday, 17 May
9.00 p.m.
Concert with the band “As Old” at the Central Square.

Wednesday, 18 May
7.30 p.m.
Revival of chant in the streets of the city and around the Komotini Club starting from the Central Square.
Organization: Cultural Association of the Byzantine Fortress of Komotini. The “Evmolpos” Choir participates.

The program is presented by journalist Irini Tsakiri.

Images of Komotini by Anastasia Fountouli ©

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The Greek Grand Canyon

Travelling through the lengths of Greece, you will come across the most varied landscape; from lush green hills to black lava cliffs to Grand Canyon-like rock shapes.

Just shy of the martyr city of Servia, about a 30-minute drive from the city of Kozani, lie some Grand Canyon-like formations similar to which are nowhere to be found in Greece!

These unique formations are called “Bouharia”, “Nohtaria” and the ‘Red Night”.

Insights Greece - The Greek Grand Canyon

The famous Bouharia of Mikrovalto

These umbrella-like formations have emerged from continuous soil erosions over thousands of years. They consist of sand, clay, cobblestones and adhesive iron and silicon oxides that give this unique red colour. The top of each column is covered by a slate slab that, in the evolution of the formation, went on to give this typical umbrella shape.
In the local dialect “Bouhari” means chimney so for centuries, locals tried to interpret this unique phenomenon by telling stories about “The chimneys of demons” and “The ladies with the umbrellas”- two of the names describing the area that has prevailed up until today.

There are various myths concerning “Bouharia”. It was said that at night these formations turned into demons so it was advised not to cross the area after sunset – a myth that was made up mainly to intimidate young children not to explore the area and play further away from their parents’ supervision. Another story says that 100 years ago some thieves from the village intending to steal wheat from storage, painted their faces, dressed in rags and came out of the “Bouharia” area screaming. The people guarding the storage got scared and started running in the opposite direction allowing the thieves to carry out their plan uninterrupted.

Demon myths aside though, these formations served as a shelter for many locals during the Nazi occupation (1942-1944). Due to the mountainous area, this was the best spot to seek protection but in order for children to follow their mothers in the area the myth was reshaped and in the new version of it, it was said that instead of demons, fairies came out of the bulbs to protect the people.

The geopark of “Bouharia” was built in 2008. There is a parking space for visitors, two well-maintained pathways for visitors to follow and two kiosks. The terrain is hilly and visitors are advised to carry with them water and lunch as there are no facilities or cafeterias in close proximity.

The breathtaking Nohtaria

“Nohtari” has the same meaning as “Bouhari” but without the chimney cap. “Nohtaria” are conical formations, made similarly to bouharia, scattered all the way through the stream of Potamia on the border of the village of Livadero. The formations are 15 meters tall and to reach there visitors must drive down a forest road. Perhaps the most impressive of Nochtaria can be found in Kokkino Nochto, south of Livadero, opposite the village of Elati.

The unique “Red Night” of Livadero

Another impressive geological monument of nature is the ‘Red Night” in the mountainous area of Kamvounia which is at a direct distance of 7.5km from Nochtaria! This vertical red cliff is about 30 meters high and it consists of multiple anthropomorphic geo shapes.

Images by Kostas Haratsaris ©

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Top Must-See Landmarks in Komotini

If there is one word to describe Komotini that would be multiculturalism. Here, west meets east, the past and the present coexist uniquely and there is always a legend to be told about its historic sites. Komotini, with its natural beauty and traditional elements, has something to accommodate everyone but did you know that it also has some of the finest Greek architecture?

Let’s go on a tour around the city looking at some of the city’s finest architectural pieces that can give us a glimpse into the socio-economical status of Komotini’s past, how people lived, what were their habits and financial situation, and even what jobs they held.

Entering the city from the west, visitors will come across Mansion Dermertzoglou, a one-storey building boasting a variety of Greek neoclassical features. The building’s aesthetic reflects the unique taste of its first residents; the main pillars featuring Doric capitals support the richly decorated pediment and the balconies are decorated with clam-shaped banisters making the most eye-catching facade.

Just a few meters away at Tsanakli street is the start of The old Greek historic district of Komotini that has three buildings with unique stories- The Old Library, Zoidis mansion and Eliades mansion. Those 19th-century mansions depicting a card postal, are declared protected monuments under the Greek state legislation making the street a blast from the past as they cannot be taken down or altered. Nowadays, the building of The Old Library houses K.Karatheodori S.A, Zoidis mansion is a famous cafe bar and Eliades mansion is an uninhabited building.

Insights Greece - Top Must-See Landmarks in Komotini — Museum of Komotini

On Dimokritou and Sofouli corner, visitors come eye-to-eye with the iconic Lesxi Komotinaion, a cafe with a rich history that has been open to the public since 1921. The high ceilings, crystal pendant lights and staircase are a testament to its neoclassical architecture, built during the Ottoman domination in Greece. The building is a declared monument of cultural heritage in Greece that testifies to the history of Komotini.

On the other side of Dimokritou street, visitors see a grandiose, peach coloured building with green sash windows, Tsanakleios School. Built in 1906 from funds provided by Nestoras Tsanakleios, a tobacco merchant from Komotini, this used to be an all-boys school that later turned into the Old University Rectorate and it currently hosts the public library. Even though the building has changed many uses since the day it was built, perhaps the saddest one is from when it used to be an orphanage.

Situated in the middle of the renewed area of Komotini on Sofouli street, where once the river run through, is a 150-years old church, the Metropolitan Church of the Assumption. Built during the Ottoman empire, the church lies almost half a meter under the current street level, as there was a building height regulation stating that anything Greek built during the days of the Ottoman empire should not be on a higher level than the Turkish buildings. Near the temple is a part of the Byzantine wall ruins, as it is also across the street.

Komotini Fortress once used to be the centre of the Jewish community. The Byzantine walls had large wooden doors that closed every night for the safety of the residents. They protected the community but also separated the two different worlds living in Komotini. Nowadays, the remains of the 4th-century walls, scattered through the city centre are a reminder of a sad era filled with wars and plunders.

Dating back to the Ottoman era, The Old Market of Komotini is another must-see when in the city. Clusters of old, traditional shops, neatly lined in the cobbled streets make this area one of the most intriguing ones. Here, shops are filled with antique treasures waiting to be discovered, locals gather together to share their news and there is a distinct aroma of freshly grounded coffee in the air.

Located just off Ermou Street is the historic Clock Tower. Originally built in 1884, the Clock Tower was restored and went through an architectural intervention in 1950 resulting in its current form. It is a meeting point for locals and it marks the start of Ermou street.

Next to the Clock Tower lies Yeni Mosque (New Mosque) dating back to 1585. This is a place where the muezzin calls the Greek Muslims to pray five times per day and where the Muftiate of Rhodope Prefecture is housed. What is interesting about this building is that opposed to what its name suggests, it is in fact the oldest mosque in the city!

On Kouloglou street there are two buildings of high importance and architectural uniqueness: at 6-8 Kouloglou street is the famous Skouteri mansion that nowadays hosts the museum of Komotini and at Kouloglou and Seferi corner is the Cultural Centre of Komotini. Both buildings are designated as historic monuments that require a special state of protection.

Agiou Georgiou street is another place of architectural interest. There lies the building of the Educational Society of Komotini (Ag. Georgiou 26) and The Folkore Museum divided between two identical buildings facing each other, the Peidou mansion on Agiou Georgiou 13 and the Psara mansion on Agiou Georgiou 22. The last two buildings display a typical example of local folk architecture and have been restored as exemplary. The museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday, between 9.00 – 13.00. Visitors can contact 2531025931 for information and organized guided tours.

In Komotini’s central square, Plateia Eirinis, visitors come across a cultural heritage building designed by the architect Othonas at the beginning of the 20th century. The building features yellow walls with arched balcony doors, wooden shades and a mixture of Byzantium and neoclassical architectural elements. In 1933 it was bought by Nikolaos Papatheodorou and it was turned into a hotel, ‘Astoria‘, in 1934.

The Thracian Cultural Center and Thracian Conservatory are set in the renovated building of the Tobacco Warehouse. The building was renovated more than a decade ago and it has four floors with many large rooms that are used for multiple events and purposes either by the Municipality of Komotini or by cultural and social Associations.

Images by Anastasia Fountouli ©

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Exploring the Old Town of Xanthi

When you think of the city of Xanthi, two aspects vividly come to mind, the excessive carnival celebrations and the Old Town. The best way I can describe the latter is encapsulated in one word: nostalgia!

The Old Town of Xanthi is an enchanting settlement in the heart of the city that has remained unaffected by time. It is a magnet for visitors, especially on a warm day, filled with colours and aromas. A concoction of picturesque cobbled streets, buildings with evident features of the Ottoman empire once ruling the city, rows of 19th-century houses with dilapidated balconies and throngs of tourists photographing every corner of it. A mixture of Edinburgh’s Circus Lane and Malta’s Mdina, if you like.

We embarked on a tour of the Old Town of Xanthi early on Sunday morning in an attempt to avoid the crowds. Our tour started on El. Venizelou 17 at Grand Maison, the beautiful house where the famous music composer, Manos Hadjidakis, was born and raised.

Built in 1895 by an Austrian architect, this neoclassical mansion with baroque elements belonged to Isaac Daniel, a rich Jew living in Xanthi, and not the Hadjidakis family as most people think.

The building was recently restored under the guidance of Hadjidaki’s relatives to honour his life and work in the best possible way. Nowadays, it serves as a museum and cultural centre open to the public.

Insights Greece - Exploring the Old Town of Xanthi — Grand Maison, once home of music composer, Manos Hadjidakis

It is said that the Holy Church of St. Vlassios facing Grand Maison has been the inspiration behind the artist’s composition of music mixing Byzantine and ancient Greek elements. The basilica was built in 1838 and in the courtyard lies a school and the priest’s residence. The inward-looking style of the three buildings is a common feature in Ottoman structures found in Turkey and Greece. The church courtyard is elevated three meters from the road level so that people can catch sight of it as houses on El. Venizelou were hiding the building.

The tour continued uphill on Agiou Vlassiou street with the mansion of Dr. Constantine Karabetsis on the corner. Built in 1896 by European architects in neoclassical style with a typically enclosed balcony (sachnisi) in the centre the mansion stands out for its aesthetic and character. The painting on the ceiling of the entrance hall was done by the Maltzi brothers, some famous artists from Aivali in Asia Minor (today Ayvalik, Turkey). Unfortunately, like many other buildings in Xanthi’s Old Town, the building is in deer need of restoration but visitors can still see signs of its former glorious life.

We kept walking on Agiou Vlassiou street and went past many neoclassical mansions until we met the magnificent Residences of the Michaloglou family, a complex of four dwellings built in 1890, built by the Northern Epirus tobacco merchant, Ioannis Michaloglou, for his children.

A bit further away on Botsari street lies Muzaffer Bey’s mansion (konah). The building features both Thracian and Ottoman elements making it one of the most remarkable examples of local architecture. It was built during the 1860s with three floors and two wings in the form of the Greek letter Π. Today the building belongs to the Municipality of Xanthi and it is under construction. Back to El. Venizelou street, we found a beautiful house and store built in 1880 by a group of craftsmen from Epirus. The presence of the blue arched windows is something often seen in commercial buildings of the early 20th-century in Xanthi.

Suddenly, we felt famished so we headed towards Antika square for some coffee and nibbles. This scenic square is a meeting point for many locals as it is surrounded by many well-known bars, traditional tavernas and bars. We sat at Favela Chic Art Bar and enjoyed the views of the little square and the crowds of people passing in search of a place to sit and enjoy the day. On the other side of the square is a round symmetrical building that now hosts one of the most famous cafe bars ‘Bread and Chocolate‘. This impressive building was once the harem of the Ottoman ruler Mehmet Pasha!

It was getting dark when we left so with no more time to explore under the daylight, we went for a quick wander around the square shops.

There is so much to do and see in the Old Town of Xanthi, we promised to be back very soon. Hopefully, this will be the time that we will get the full tour of the Old Town as there are still so many more mansions and historic buildings to discover.

Until next time!

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A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

River Nestos separates Macedonia from Thrace and flows into the Thracian Sea, in its famous Delta, which is a National Park. According to Greek mythology, Nestos (or Nessos), a name associated with the verb Nasso, was born at the beginning of time -before humans even existed- along with 12,456 rivers and 3,000 Nymphs. His father was Oceanus and his mother was Tethys.

Nestos is divided into two parts- the Nestos Gorge at Toxotes, Xanthi and the Nestos Delta at Chrysoupoli, Kavala. The views of both are quite frankly breathtaking.

Insights Greece - A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

We arrived at the meeting point, Nestos Adventure Park minutes before our guided trek group departed. The route is not a difficult one to follow but seeing as this was our first time, we figured it would be best to book tickets and go with a guided group- “jaywalking” is my middle name after all.

The sandy beach at the start of the tour, Galani Beach of Nestos, smelled like fresh river water and pine trees, a beautiful scent that set the mood for the rest of the day. We stopped to stare at the children playing on the shores and the adults about to embark on a kayak adventure. ‘This must be fun,” I exclaimed and my husband agreed that this would be next on our list of baby-free weekend activities.

The path across the river basin of Nestos on which we were currently loping certainly seemed rather narrower than I had been anticipating. But the golden alluvial land and the blue lagoon unfolding views ahead compensated for the lack of it.

We were only 10 minutes into our walk when we stopped to admire the views of the continual train tunnels- there are around thirty tunnels along the total stretch of the railway built by French engineers during the Ottoman Empire to create a route that connects Thessaloniki to Constantinople for the famous Orient Express train to pass through. The railway line does not operate anymore but these are a reminder of a once-famous train journey connecting not only the West and the East but also Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli with multiple picturesque villages in between.

Further down, the path was getting steeper but the views of the river meanders, the rocky gorge and the stunning mountain backdrop made it impossible not to feel humble and realise that this was perhaps one of the best hiking experiences I’ve ever had in my life! Bridges and 19th-century stone-built tunnels formed a setting that few can forget.

A few benevolent stray dogs accompanied us, wagging tails each time lunch-packed sandwiches made their appearance. After an hour we reached the Viewpoint Nestos Gorge and it was then that our guide shouted that we are halfway through the tour. The views from up here are spectacular – from one side you have the best valley and mountain views and from the other side you can see the stretch of the river. Unintentionally, we found ourselves gazing at the deep end of the mountain and experiencing a feeling of inner peace and solitude.

Even though there are many trek routes to follow, we chose the hiking route Toxotes – Kromniko, which took four hours to complete and get back to the starting point. The path was walkable and ideal for people of all fitness levels and ages. Among the many things we loved was crossing the riparian forest, watching free horses running in the mountain, having lunch outside the abandoned Kromniko train stop and admiring the three main meanders of the river, which, according to Greek mythology, were created while Nestos was looking for his way between the wild slopes of the mountains.

Once we made it back to the car park, we had a much-needed coffee break to gather some energy and loosen the muscle knots in our legs at Canteen Galani by the beach. The rest of the group went on to have a late lunch at the nearby taverna ‘Ta Tempi tou Nestou’ but we left as we had an hour’s drive to make it home.

This is the kind of weekend activities I want to see myself doing more of in 2022!

Tip: Dromeas Thrakis organises guided tours take place every two weeks. You can find more information or book your tickets here.

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Komotini Like a Local

Born and raised in Servia, a small town set between a lake and the mountains in the region of Kozani, Anastasia Fountouli was drawn to nature, gardening and her family’s vegetable patch. So, it comes as no surprise she went on to study Agricultural Sciences at the University of Thessaly in Volos.

“Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of this experience was that through meeting people from different countries, I was inspired to travel abroad and immerse myself in different civilisations,” says Anastasia who continued her studies in England and later on moved to Scotland for her PhD all while travelling around Europe.

“What began as a fun, one-year adventure, resulted in a life in the UK for a little over a decade. After all this time, I now consider Scotland as my second home,” says Anastasia.

Once the uncertainty of the pandemic hit, she began to re-evaluate her life, and, “it soon became clear to me that I had to return back to Greece. Once the travel restrictions were lifted, I quit my job, flew to Volos and I found myself in my old flat contemplating what my next step should be. Then, totally unexpectedly and on a night I didn’t even want to go out, I met my now-husband.

“Our attraction was instant, and our chemistry was so strong we both knew we were made for each other. Saying ‘yes’ to his proposal was the easiest decision I ever made in my life. Once I got pregnant, we decided to move to his city, Komotini and the rest is history. If there is one thing I have learned so far is to take the risk, it’s worth it!”

Since 2007, Anastasia has also been a popular lifestyle blogger, sharing travel, restaurant, and fashion tips with her loyal followers who are inspired by her beautiful images and recommendations. Over the last year, she has shared a lot of stunning photography, footage and information about her new hometown, which she has fallen in love with, and is keen to share with the rest of the world.

We recently had a chat with Anastasia about her new life in Komotini, as well as where to go, what to see and the best places to eat when visiting this pretty town in eastern Thrace.

Firstly, please tell us when you started blogging and more about Natbee’s travels.

Natbee’s is an extension of my childhood habit of journal writing but with a modern twist! It started in 2007 as a way to keep in touch with family and friends and flourished while living abroad. I write about my travels, hotel and restaurant recommendations and, so far, people enjoy following along! Essentially, I am the brand, I photograph everything myself, I write and edit the articles and I come up with the creative side, too. It is a one-woman band but I love it! The blog has constantly evolved as my life was evolving and it was nominated for the ‘Best Newcoming Blog’ award in the 2012 Cosmopolitan Blog Awards, for the ‘Best Fashion Blog’ award in the 2013 Company Magazine Blog Awards and got a spot in the Top 10 Scottish Blogs list. At the same time, I was a travel contributor to The Gaudie newspaper and Trend Aberdeen magazine which persuaded my love for travel writing and photography even more.

How would you describe your new hometown to those who have never heard of this charming city?

A hub successfully mixing Western and Eastern civilisation; from mosques to Christian churches, tell-tale signs of modern Greece and the Ottoman Empire are all over the city making Komotini’s cityscape and architecture exceptionally unique. Much like London, in Komotini people come from different backgrounds and religions and they live here harmoniously, tasting each other’s cultures through friendship, food, and trade -a thing that I love the most about living here.

What are the must-see monuments and historical sites of Komotini?

In no particular order, if visiting Komotini, you must visit the Tsanakleios School (that’s the pink building you often see on my Instagram), the Yeni Mosque with its Clock Tower, Ermou Street and the surrounding cobbled streets where the traditional shops belonging to the Greek Muslim minority are tucked away, the ruins of the 4th-century Byzantine wall, the Byzantine fortress of Komotini, the Old Temenos (also known as Eksi Mosque) and last but not least the central square with the adjacent park that features The Central Heroon, Spathi, a monument dedicated to the fallen WWII heroes.

What would you recommend for cultural and leisurely experiences in Komotini?

Komotini is known for its large number of museums making the city a meeting point for history aficionados. The Constantine Carathéodory Museum tells the life story of the man who is known as Einstein’s mathematician, the Archaeological Museum exhibits pieces from the Neolithic to the Byzantine period and reveals much about the prehistory and history of the Aegean Thrace and Komotini; and the Folklore Museum displays a collection of ecclesiastic items, traditional dresses and various materials. There is something for everyone’s taste really! If, however, escaping the crowds is your thing, there are also beaches with fine sand to visit in less than half an hour’s drive away. Located just outside the city, Mesi Beach and Fanari are two of my favourites. The stretch of sand of Mesi beach would make many Greek islands jealous: it goes for a mile and on a sunny day, the azure waters make it impossible to resist a swim. Fanari Beach runs down from the port of Fanari village up to the nearby village of Arogi. In summer it is a top tourist attraction and it has a handful of bars and restaurants to sit and relax when the heat gets too much.

Favourite restaurants and cafes?

Visiting Komotini is like going on a gastronomical pilgrimage! Visitors can enjoy Greek coffee at cafes hosted in old buildings, ‘Varosi Art Cafe’, ‘Gecko’ and ‘Lou.Ki’ are just a few of them. As for food, try the local cuisine at ‘Kapsouli’ and ‘Elia kai Duosmos’. Then for dessert, there is ‘Nedim’, possibly the most famous patisserie in the city that has a sterling reputation for its Turkish desserts.

Any local dishes or delicacies visitors should try?

I’d definitely go for Bougatsa at ‘Takis’, Lahmacun at ‘King Food’ and Kazandibi at ‘Nedim’.

Your favourite day trip(s) from Komotini?

Situated between the beautiful cities of Xanthi and Alexandroupoli, the sandy beaches on the south and the mountain of Nymfaia just a short drive away, we are spoiled for choice! My favourite day trip would include a drive to the city of Xanthi for a wander around the Old City and a spot of shopping. Then, on my way back I would go through Porto Lagos, have a quick stop at the Monastery of Saint Nicholas and end up at Fanari village for a cocktail at the beach just before the sunset.

What do you love most about living here?

The friendly people and its long cycle lane going through the city centre. It makes mobility for a new mum with a buggy so much easier.

A few of your overall favourite destinations in Greece?

The magical land of Crete has to be on the very top of my list -the history, the people and the food make this island irresistibly attractive. Santorini and Corfu are next. Santorini for its magical sunsets, white-washed houses with blue-painted doors and abundance of wineries, and Corfu for its Venetian vibes, colourful cobbled streets and luxury hotels. But Greece is not all about the islands as the mainland has, too, so much to offer and even more. I have a soft spot for Macedonia as it has a strong history and a lavishness of things to do and places to visit comprising of mountains, lakes and beaches. It is no surprise that the saying ‘like Halkidiki nowhere’ has been posted all over Instagram over the past decade as the crystal-clear waters and evergreen beaches of this part of Macedonia make this place unmissable.

You recently became a mum. Are there any places you can’t wait to visit with your baby girl?

My list is never-ending! Be it the travel restrictions, or my new, tiring role, there hasn’t been a time that I have dreamed of travelling more than now. This pent-up wanderlust has created that compulsion to write meticulous travel itineraries which I am hoping we will go on the soonest as possible. One of them includes a Balkan road trip where we will be visiting Romania, Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro. Fingers crossed we make it happen.

Discover more about Natbee’s travels and Komotini here.

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When you think of the city of Xanthi, two aspects vividly come to mind, the excessive carnival celebrations and the Old Town. The best way I can describe the latter is encapsulated in one word: nostalgia!

A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

Komotini Like a Local

Born and raised in Servia, a small town set between a lake and the mountains in the region of Kozani, Anastasia Fountouli was drawn to nature, gardening and her family’s vegetable patch. So, it comes as no surprise she went on to study Agricultural Sciences at the University of Thessaly in Volos.

Your Curated Guide to Greece

On the 14th of May 1920, Komotini was freed after centuries of Ottoman and Bulgarian occupation.

Travelling through the lengths of Greece, you will come across the most varied landscape; from lush green hills to black lava cliffs to Grand Canyon-like rock shapes.

When you think of the city of Xanthi, two aspects vividly come to mind, the excessive carnival celebrations and the Old Town. The best way I can describe the latter is encapsulated in one word: nostalgia!

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

Born and raised in Servia, a small town set between a lake and the mountains in the region of Kozani, Anastasia Fountouli was drawn to nature, gardening and her family’s vegetable patch. So, it comes as no surprise she went on to study Agricultural Sciences at the University of Thessaly in Volos.

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