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Complete Travel Guide to East Pelion

Pelion is a place close to my heart. This is where I met my husband, where we fell in love and got married. A less-visited place- it’s rich in history, has delicious food, blissful beaches and welcoming locals. Since then, I’ve come to love the word ‘Pelion,’ as it has gifted us so many moments that we will cherish forever.

When we received an invitation for a week away in East Pelion, I could not believe our luck. I remained standing in front of my inbox with a look akin to a deer caught in headlights. We hadn’t visited Pelion for almost two years now so we, of course, welcomed the opportunity and within a few days found ourselves in Zagora.

We were very lucky to have friends who live in Zagora (Kiki Tsourou I am looking at you!) and were happy to play the tourists in their own town, showing us the best of what East Pelion has to offer including all the activities one can do here, the places one has to visit and the places to go for food and fun. Here, I’ve compiled a list of all the things we did for when you visit.

Insights Greece - Complete Travel Guide to East Pelion — Horefto Beach

Getting There & Getting Around

Pelion is located in the municipality of Magnesia in the middle of the Greek mainland. It is approximately a 5-hour drive from Athens and a 3-hour drive from Thessaloniki. There are also daily flights to Volos airport which is an hour’s drive to East Pelion. Depending on how much you want to explore while in East Pelion, I strongly recommend you hire a car as access to some places is not doable with public transportation, which is not the best and with the most regular routes, if you ask me. Also, the road to get to East Pelion is a bit wonky and has a series of bends, so keep that in mind when driving around.

But with views as such, who would mind a few bends and turns?

Where to Stay

If you would like to experience both the mountain and the sea, I strongly recommend you spend half of your time in Zagora and the other half in Horefto. If you, however, prefer the uncharted and unexposed beauty of mountain villages then Pouri and Tsagkarada may be the ideal ones for you.

Where to Sleep

If you would like to stay in Zagora then look no further than Victoria’s Country Apartments in the centre of Zagora. This traditional accommodation was built in harmony with the unique architecture of the area in 2003. They offer spacious, two-room apartments with the best sea views but what makes this accommodation so special is the owner herself, Victoria. A smiley lady that decorated each room with taste and offers you daily the tastiest breakfast prepared by her own hands. If you are more of a beach person though, then Aeolos Hotel Villas in Horefto beach is for you. Think of white-washed houses in a secluded rose garden with sea views and two swimming pools for those who like to have the best of both worlds. If you are more of an adventure person though and camping, or even glamping, is your jam, Camping Horefto is for you. A 5-star camping site with facilities for the disabled, glamping tents and a cafe area, it gives an extra twist to camping as you know it.

Where to eat and drink

In Zagora, taste local grilled meat at Stou Psilou a few steps further than the central square of the village. Ylien Cafe in the square is another great place to have a cold beer and try their pizza or one of their traditional desserts. In Pouri, go to Polydroso restaurant at the little square for local meze and views of the mountain. On your way to Elitsa beach turn right and visit Plimari Tavern located on the less known Analipsi beach. To get there you will get off the beaten path as Analipsi beach is a secluded area but it is worth the ride. Plimari Tavern offers the complete Pelion experience with fresh seafood, ouzo, and grilled meat in a seaside setting. From here you can go for a walk along the Analipsi beach, have a swim and come back to enjoy another dish or have some coffee. Sevah Horefto is another great tavern that you must visit when on Horefto beach. Located in the middle of the main road, under centuries-old plane trees, just a few meters away from the sea, the owners Matina and her husband Spyros will make you feel most welcome. Try the penne with salmon alla vodka or ask for the catch of the day, as Spyros goes fishing and cooks it fresh every day.

Best Beaches

East Pelion beaches have pristine, crystal-blue waters! Horefto beach is a great place to start, especially if you are looking for bars, supermarkets and restaurants nearby. Ideal for families and those who like to play on the beach and dive in and out of the water many times per day. Elitsa beach with the famous heart-shaped rock is another great choice. For a morning swim go to Analipsi beach and then have a light lunch at Plimari Tavern. If you are looking for beach bars then Agioi Saranta, Agios Ioannis and Plaka beach are for you. Damouchari beach is the famous place where parts of the movie ‘Mamma Mia’ were filmed, a must-visit place if you are in East Pelion! Last but not least, Paralia Fakistra and Paralia Milopotamos. It’s a long drive to go but when you dive into the cold waters with the wavelengths of light playing on the surface of the sea, you realise that it was totally worth it!

East Pelion’s history

Since ancient times, Pelion has played a major role in the country’s history. According to Ancient Greek mythology, Mount Pelion was the homeland of Centaurs, the mythical creatures that were half-men and half-horse. So much was their adoration by humans that Chiron, the wisest and justest of them all became the tutor of Asclepius the father of medicine, and showed him how to use herbal medicine to heal humans. Spending time in East Pelion and seeing the dense, jungle-like forest and wild herbs surrounding the villages, is enough to convince you that these myths are not entirely narrated without a sound basis.

Just walking through the villages of Zagora, Tsagkarada and Pouri you notice distinct elements of mixed Ottoman and Venetian architecture revealing the once rulers of the area.

More particularly, in Zagora, you will find the Kassavetio Girl’s School, which was the first girls’ school founded in Ottoman Thessaly in the 19th century, the Rigas Feraios school where the writer was educated, the mayor hall of Zagora, a majestic building with thick walls by the square of the village and The Women’s Agricultural Association of Zagora, a place where local women using old recipes create magnificent delicacies that are sold all over the country.

Can’t leave without…

Going for a hike through the beautiful mountain Pelion with a registered, professional guide like George Xiradakis from Pelion Scout. George’s aim is to safely guide you through the hiking pathways of East Pelion, tell you about the story of the place, show you the vegetation and explain all about the area’s microclimate. If you are lucky enough you may even pick some mushrooms as we did. Into culinary experiences? Then book a session with Pelion Scout and Taste Pelion! While George will guide you through the mountain, Chef Vaggelis Vouzaras will cook for you in the great outdoors. Choose the trail to ‘Vathres’ (natural plunge pools in Greek), it is ideal for people of all fitness backgrounds and a very enjoyable one as you see the scenery of the mountain changing while on course. Into multi-day adventures? Then book a sea caves adventure, sail to uninhabited lands, swim in the translucent waters of wild sea caves, wander along scenic seaside paths, and feast outdoors on authentic Greek delicacies! Into Greek language retreats? Then be a Greek for a week and book yourself a language retreat with Mona Spachi at Pelion this summer!

No matter what you choose to do, I’m sure of one thing- once you leave you will want to return back!

Images by Anastasia Fountouli ©

The Greek Grand Canyon

Travelling through the lengths of Greece, you will come across the most varied landscape; from lush green hills to black lava cliffs to Grand Canyon-like rock shapes.

Just shy of the martyr city of Servia, about a 30-minute drive from the city of Kozani, lie some Grand Canyon-like formations similar to which are nowhere to be found in Greece!

These unique formations are called “Bouharia”, “Nohtaria” and the ‘Red Night”.

Insights Greece - The Greek Grand Canyon

The famous Bouharia of Mikrovalto

These umbrella-like formations have emerged from continuous soil erosions over thousands of years. They consist of sand, clay, cobblestones and adhesive iron and silicon oxides that give this unique red colour. The top of each column is covered by a slate slab that, in the evolution of the formation, went on to give this typical umbrella shape.
In the local dialect “Bouhari” means chimney so for centuries, locals tried to interpret this unique phenomenon by telling stories about “The chimneys of demons” and “The ladies with the umbrellas”- two of the names describing the area that has prevailed up until today.

There are various myths concerning “Bouharia”. It was said that at night these formations turned into demons so it was advised not to cross the area after sunset – a myth that was made up mainly to intimidate young children not to explore the area and play further away from their parents’ supervision. Another story says that 100 years ago some thieves from the village intending to steal wheat from storage, painted their faces, dressed in rags and came out of the “Bouharia” area screaming. The people guarding the storage got scared and started running in the opposite direction allowing the thieves to carry out their plan uninterrupted.

Demon myths aside though, these formations served as a shelter for many locals during the Nazi occupation (1942-1944). Due to the mountainous area, this was the best spot to seek protection but in order for children to follow their mothers in the area the myth was reshaped and in the new version of it, it was said that instead of demons, fairies came out of the bulbs to protect the people.

The geopark of “Bouharia” was built in 2008. There is a parking space for visitors, two well-maintained pathways for visitors to follow and two kiosks. The terrain is hilly and visitors are advised to carry with them water and lunch as there are no facilities or cafeterias in close proximity.

The breathtaking Nohtaria

“Nohtari” has the same meaning as “Bouhari” but without the chimney cap. “Nohtaria” are conical formations, made similarly to bouharia, scattered all the way through the stream of Potamia on the border of the village of Livadero. The formations are 15 meters tall and to reach there visitors must drive down a forest road. Perhaps the most impressive of Nochtaria can be found in Kokkino Nochto, south of Livadero, opposite the village of Elati.

The unique “Red Night” of Livadero

Another impressive geological monument of nature is the ‘Red Night” in the mountainous area of Kamvounia which is at a direct distance of 7.5km from Nochtaria! This vertical red cliff is about 30 meters high and it consists of multiple anthropomorphic geo shapes.

Bouharia Greece Greece mainland Greek Grand Canyon Greek mainland Kozani Macedonia Nohtaria Red Night Servia Thrace

A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

River Nestos separates Macedonia from Thrace and flows into the Thracian Sea, in its famous Delta, which is a National Park. According to Greek mythology, Nestos (or Nessos), a name associated with the verb Nasso, was born at the beginning of time -before humans even existed- along with 12,456 rivers and 3,000 Nymphs. His father was Oceanus and his mother was Tethys.

Nestos is divided into two parts- the Nestos Gorge at Toxotes, Xanthi and the Nestos Delta at Chrysoupoli, Kavala. The views of both are quite frankly breathtaking.

Insights Greece - A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

We arrived at the meeting point, Nestos Adventure Park minutes before our guided trek group departed. The route is not a difficult one to follow but seeing as this was our first time, we figured it would be best to book tickets and go with a guided group- “jaywalking” is my middle name after all.

The sandy beach at the start of the tour, Galani Beach of Nestos, smelled like fresh river water and pine trees, a beautiful scent that set the mood for the rest of the day. We stopped to stare at the children playing on the shores and the adults about to embark on a kayak adventure. ‘This must be fun,” I exclaimed and my husband agreed that this would be next on our list of baby-free weekend activities.

The path across the river basin of Nestos on which we were currently loping certainly seemed rather narrower than I had been anticipating. But the golden alluvial land and the blue lagoon unfolding views ahead compensated for the lack of it.

We were only 10 minutes into our walk when we stopped to admire the views of the continual train tunnels- there are around thirty tunnels along the total stretch of the railway built by French engineers during the Ottoman Empire to create a route that connects Thessaloniki to Constantinople for the famous Orient Express train to pass through. The railway line does not operate anymore but these are a reminder of a once-famous train journey connecting not only the West and the East but also Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli with multiple picturesque villages in between.

Further down, the path was getting steeper but the views of the river meanders, the rocky gorge and the stunning mountain backdrop made it impossible not to feel humble and realise that this was perhaps one of the best hiking experiences I’ve ever had in my life! Bridges and 19th-century stone-built tunnels formed a setting that few can forget.

A few benevolent stray dogs accompanied us, wagging tails each time lunch-packed sandwiches made their appearance. After an hour we reached the Viewpoint Nestos Gorge and it was then that our guide shouted that we are halfway through the tour. The views from up here are spectacular – from one side you have the best valley and mountain views and from the other side you can see the stretch of the river. Unintentionally, we found ourselves gazing at the deep end of the mountain and experiencing a feeling of inner peace and solitude.

Even though there are many trek routes to follow, we chose the hiking route Toxotes – Kromniko, which took four hours to complete and get back to the starting point. The path was walkable and ideal for people of all fitness levels and ages. Among the many things we loved was crossing the riparian forest, watching free horses running in the mountain, having lunch outside the abandoned Kromniko train stop and admiring the three main meanders of the river, which, according to Greek mythology, were created while Nestos was looking for his way between the wild slopes of the mountains.

Once we made it back to the car park, we had a much-needed coffee break to gather some energy and loosen the muscle knots in our legs at Canteen Galani by the beach. The rest of the group went on to have a late lunch at the nearby taverna ‘Ta Tempi tou Nestou’ but we left as we had an hour’s drive to make it home.

This is the kind of weekend activities I want to see myself doing more of in 2022!

Tip: Dromeas Thrakis organises guided tours take place every two weeks. You can find more information or book your tickets here.

Greece Greece travel Greece travel guides Greek mainland Kavala Macedonia Mainland Greece Nestos Nestos Gorge Nestos River Thrace Xanthi

Your Curated Guide to Greece

Complete Travel Guide to East Pelion

The Greek Grand Canyon

Travelling through the lengths of Greece, you will come across the most varied landscape; from lush green hills to black lava cliffs to Grand Canyon-like rock shapes.

A Guided Trek Tour Through Nestos Gorge

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

Your Curated Guide to Greece

Travelling through the lengths of Greece, you will come across the most varied landscape; from lush green hills to black lava cliffs to Grand Canyon-like rock shapes.

It’s a sunny Sunday and the early morning drive to Nestos riverside is filled with Abba songs, caffeine and excitement. A three-hour hike through Nestos Gorge is definitely something to be excited about!

The Athens Guide