Discover our ultimate travel guide to Astypalaia, as we share where to eat, drink, stay and swim around this beautiful Dodecanese isle.

Astypalaia, affectionately dubbed the “Butterfly of the Aegean” for its distinctive silhouette, is an island that blends whitewashed architecture with wild, untouched beauty. 

Far from the spotlight of Santorini or Mykonos, Astypalaia feels both exclusive and untouched. Whether you’re swimmimg in crystal clear water, exploring lunar-like landscapes by motorbike or stargazing from a quiet terrace in Chora, Astypalaia offers a kind of luxurious solitude that’s becoming increasingly rare- and irresistibly sought-after.

Perfect For…

Groups of friends, couples, and families alike who are after a tranquil escape. Thanks to its lively nightlife, it’s especially popular with younger travellers seeking a vibrant island experience.

See + Do

Astypalaia Castle (Kastro)

Plan an evening stroll up to the Venetian castle that crowns Chora. Built by the noble Querini family in the 15th century, it offers sweeping views across whitewashed rooftops and the endless blue of the Aegean- it’s especially magical at sunset.

Chora Windmills

The iconic windmills that line the entrance to Chora are a postcard-perfect symbol of the island. One of them now houses a multilingual library- a quiet, surprising place to browse international literature and take a break from the midday heat.

Swim + Sunbathe

Astypalaia is ringed with beaches for every mood- from wild, windswept shores to sheltered coves of golden sand. Whether you head to Livadi for convenience or make the scenic trip to Kaminakia or Vatses, the water is always impossibly clear.

Archaeological Museum of Astypalaia

Tucked away in the heart of Chora, this small but thoughtfully curated museum showcases the island’s ancient past. Expect marble inscriptions, pottery, and artefacts that trace Astypalaia’s role from prehistoric times through the Classical era.

After Dark

While the island may feel serene by day, Chora transforms after sundown. Bars spill out onto candlelit terraces, playing everything from soulful 70s remixes to the latest summer sounds- often until the early hours.

Churches + Monasteries

Astypalaia is home to several religious landmarks, each offering a different lens on the island’s spiritual and cultural life. Just beneath the castle lies the Church of Panagia Portaitissa, with its gleaming white dome and bell tower. For something more remote, the Monastery of Agios Ioannis sits dramatically between two cliffs on the western coast. It’s a scenic drive to reach it, but the panoramic views and quiet reverence are well worth the journey.

Eat + Drink

Coffee + Brunch 

Meltemi– Located by the windmills in Chora, Meltemi is a charming spot for your morning coffee, fluffy omelette, or a slice of homemade pie. 

Navagos Café– This laid-back café serves up fried eggs, tiganites with yoghurt and apricot marmalade, and excellent coffee under the shade of a tree. 

Lunch…

Gerani– Set just steps from Livadi Beach, Gerani serves home-style Greek dishes made with fresh local ingredients. Don’t miss the lemon-braised goat, local cheese pies with chlori, and the occasional sea urchin dish.

Apanemia– Tucked beneath the castle in a quiet Chora alley, this cosy, pet-friendly taverna offers traditional plates, local wine, and a relaxed, unpretentious vibe- perfect for groups. 

7 Asteria– With uninterrupted views over Maltezana Beach, this simple taverna serves up standout fish soup and rich lobster pasta, made daily by Kyria (Mrs) Eleni. A serene, no-frills spot where the food does all the talking.

Ageri– A classic choice for a long, leisurely lunch, Ageri dishes up generous plates of grilled steak, spaghetti Bolognese (Greek style), and tender, hand-rolled dolmades. 

Antikastro– This family-run taverna is a go-to for grilled meats and local cheeses. Rustic, hearty, and ideal for meat lovers looking for unfussy, flavour-packed dishes.

Dinner…

Akti– A modern seafood restaurant near the port with dramatic views back toward Chora. Expect refined flavours, artful plating, and a setting that blends wild island beauty with quiet sophistication.

Akrogiali– Just steps from Chora in Pera Gialos, Akrogiali offers classic Greek flavours in a laid-back, seaside setting. Order the risotto with cuttlefish ink and whatever fresh fish is on the grill that day.

Ducato di Astypalaia– Opposite the windmills in Chora, Ducato is an elevated dining experience with an open kitchen and a strong farm-and-sea-to-table ethos. Chef Panagiotis Stylianopoulos creates seasonal dishes using local goat, lobster, and daily catches.

Karai– As the sun dips behind whitewashed rooftops, Karai serves up seafood meze and small plates in a breezy, open-air setting. Pair with ouzo or tsipouro for the full island effect.

Almyra– Set in the quiet fishing port of Maltezana, Almyra specialises in refined seafood made with ultra-fresh local ingredients. The setting (right on the water) is as serene as the flavours are bold.

Astropelos– Located on the beachfront at Livadi, Astropelos is a relaxed taverna with exceptionally fresh fish and unfussy, delicious dishes. 

Sweets…

Archipelagos– A must-visit café-patisserie, especially at golden hour, with a terrace made for sunset views. Indulge in inventive takes on classics- like kataifi reimagined or a rich, spiced chocolate pie.

Kolokytha– This low-key gem serves apple and caramel cheesecake, fluffy pancakes, and great coffee. Sweet, simple, and perfect for a mid-afternoon treat.

Local flavours…

Don’t leave without tasting some of Astypalaia’s culinary signatures: chloro, a soft local cheese; saffron-yellow rusks; organic island honey; and the famed labrianos– goat slow-cooked and stuffed with spiced rice. These deeply traditional flavours offer a delicious window into the island’s heritage.

Drinks…

Athelas– For signature cocktails with a twist and laid-back beats, Athelas is a go-to in Chora. Order the Cucumber Ginger Cooler and settle in for a mellow Aegean evening.

Castro Bar– Tucked just beneath the castle, this sleek bar pairs elevated cocktails with panoramic views. The Napoli 84 Aperitivo is a house favourite at golden hour.

Artemis– A late-night staple with strong drinks and an even stronger vibe- Artemis keeps the music going until sunrise. 

Sti Thea– Perched just before the windmills, Sti Thea is a dreamy sunset stop with front-row views and a great drinks list. Their Paloma variation is not to be missed.

Butterfly Island Café– Located at the entrance to Chora, this relaxed spot is perfect for pre-dinner drinks or a chilled evening cocktail. 

Discover

Best beaches…

Agios Konstantinos– A small, serene beach where sand meets fine pebbles and the water is crystal clear. Perfect for a quiet swim and a moment of calm.

Steno– This peaceful cove offers calm, transparent waters ideal for families or anyone seeking solitude.

Livadi– A picturesque, wide beach nestled in a quiet bay with turquoise waters and a handful of charming tavernas nearby. 

Plakes– A natural haven framed by rocky formations, Plakes is perfect for snorkelling and soaking up untouched beauty. Its peaceful atmosphere makes it a favourite for those wanting to disconnect.

Vatses– Enclosed by steep rocky cliffs, Vatses offers a secluded, intimate setting on the southwestern coast. Crystal-clear waters and dramatic landscapes create a truly special spot.

Kaminakia– A bit off the beaten path, Kaminakia rewards the adventurous with some of the island’s best blue-green waters. The journey is well worth the breathtaking swimming and serenity.

Beach bars…

Steno Bay Seaside Bar– Nestled right on Steno Beach, this bar serves coffee, cocktails, and simple plates with a sea breeze soundtrack. A laid-back spot to refresh between swims.

Al Mare- Located on Agios Konstantinos, Al Mare is rustic-chic with effortlessly cool island vibes. Perfect for sundowners and casual dining steps from the sand.

Vatses Beach Bar– The go-to hangout for the island’s younger crowd, Vatses Beach Bar mixes good cocktails with a lively atmosphere. Great for late afternoons that stretch into evening.

Best view…

The panoramic vantage from Astypalaia Castle is unmatched- offering sweeping views over Chora’s whitewashed rooftops, rolling hills, and the endless Aegean beyond. Sunset here is nothing short of magical.

Local gem…

Negrou Cave is a secret hideaway steeped in legend, said to have once sheltered pirates and hidden treasures. It’s a thrilling spot for adventurous explorers seeking a touch of mystery.

Ultimate daytrip…

Hop on a boat and discover the nearby islets of Kounoupa and Koutsomytis, where crystalline waters invite swimming and some of the island’s best snorkelling. 

Take home…

Bring a taste of Astypalaia with you: fragrant local honey, artisanal ceramics, saffron-yellow rusks from Eliana Bakery, and luxurious organic soaps from Keranthos Shop in Chora. Each makes for a thoughtful souvenir or gift.

Where to stay..

We recommend basing yourself in Chora to soak up the charming streets, bustling markets, and buzzing nightlife. For a quieter pace, Maltezana offers peaceful retreats just 20 minutes away by car, close to some of the island’s best beaches.

Where to sleep…

Pylaia Boutique Hotel & Spa– Set on a hillside overlooking the Aegean, Pylaia brings a touch of the Cycladic islands to Astypalaia with its clean lines, designer aesthetic, and two sapphire-blue pools. The on-site spa adds an indulgent layer to this serene escape.

Kallichoron Art Boutique Hotel– An award-winning, eco-conscious boutique stay just steps from Chora’s central square. Expect curated interiors, thoughtful hospitality, and postcard-worthy views over the Aegean.

Anatoli Luxury Studios & Suites– These chic suites offer panoramic views over Chora and the sea, with balconies perfectly positioned to take in the island’s most iconic castle view. Elegant, quiet, and ideal for unwinding above it all.

Ixthioessa– At the heart of Chora, Ixthioessa blends traditional Cycladic charm with understated elegance. Each self-catering suite opens onto a balcony with sweeping views of the town and sea.

Anassa Boutique Hotel– Located right on Livadi Beach, Anassa is a dream for beachfront lovers. Its infinity pool seems to melt into the Aegean, creating the ultimate sea-meets-sky moment.

Oneiro Luxury Suites– This adults-only hideaway promises complete privacy and barefoot luxury in a dreamlike setting. Think floaty linens, cloud-like beds, and views designed for lingering.

The Pulse Residence– Blurring the line between private villa and boutique hotel, The Pulse offers sleek, contemporary living in the heart of Chora. Ideal for travellers seeking both seclusion and style.

Essentials

Getting there: Fly from Athens to Astypalaia’s tiny island airport in just under an hour. Alternatively, take a ferry from Piraeus– around 9 hours by standard ferry or approximately 7 hours on a high-speed option.

Best time to go: Visit between May and September, when warm weather, clear skies, and calm seas make it ideal for swimming, beach hopping, and exploring.

Ideal time to stay: Plan to stay at least five days to experience the island’s beaches, villages, food scene, and hidden gems at a relaxed pace.

Getting around: Rent a car or scooter to access Astypalaia’s more remote beaches and inland villages with ease. For a more sustainable option, use Astymove- an eco-friendly ride-sharing and electric vehicle rental service available via app- alongside the island’s public buses that will connect you to key areas. 

Main image by Thalassa Home 

 

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