Pharaoh serves wood-fire cooking, natural wines and music spun on vinyl – all tucked behind a striking emerald green curtain in edgy Exarcheia.
This new eatery has undoubtedly been Athens’ most celebrated restaurant opening of 2023 (technically, very late 2022) and it’s no surprise with a formidable team of food and wine experts at the helm including chef Manolis Papoutsakis (Deka Trapezia and Charoupi of Thessaloniki), wine merchant Perry Panagiotakopoulos and journalist Fotis Vallatos.
The space is warm and casual with an open kitchen, a few tables and a large bar that serves solo diners and sets of two. Front of house, the team of chefs, sommeliers and music curators work together to create an experience that sits somewhere between restaurant and wine bar. Walls are stacked with vinyl and firewood – a nod to the restaurant’s music and cooking philosophies.
Chef Papoutsakis has created a menu of fresh, seasonal offerings as well as village-style dishes cooked exclusively using wood fire. Menu staples include the keftedakia, the braised beef with barley and the tight-wrapped dolmadakia served with xygalo yogurt.
My fave dish
The menu is frequently modified to celebrate seasonal flavours. Every visit garners a new favourite dish (the most recent was the summer salad of monk’s beard with cherries, avocado and apricot). The perfectly whipped taramosalata topped with bottarga and the wild greens are dishes you’ll keep going back for.
Leave room for dessert?
The galaktoboureko is steadily gaining a cult following.
Something to drink…
There’s an extensive wine list of over 400 Greek and foreign wines, with a strong leaning towards natural varieties. Greek craft beers and select cocktails round out the drinks menu nicely with something for everyone.
Why I’d come back…
An evening at Pharaoh goes beyond the menu of classic dishes with thoughtful, seasonal modifications. It’s the curated music offering, the exciting beverage list and the modern decor that add texture and layers to the dining experience.
Solo dining at the bar, date night, or a fun meal with your foodie friends.
Price range: 40-60 € per person
Opening hours: Opening hours vary, and reservations can be made online
Location: Solomou 54, Exarcheia