Our neighbourhood guide is designed to help you navigate the many layers of Exarcheia, an edgy, colourful corner of the capital that continues to challenge convention while inspiring those who wander its streets.
Just north of the city centre, Exarcheia is where Athens reveals its most uncompromising self- a heady mix of intellect, rebellion, and raw creative energy.
Long known as the epicentre of political thought and countercultural movements, this gritty yet magnetic neighbourhood pulses with independent spirit. Think bohemian cafés spilling onto graffitied sidewalks, radical bookstores nestled beside experimental art spaces, and a food scene that surprises at every turn- from timeworn bistro joints to some of the hottest eateries in town.
Eat + Drink
Coffee + Brunch
Behold the Man: This stylish café near Exarcheia Square serves specialty coffee, cold-pressed juices, and teas in a sunlit, design-forward space. Sip from handmade clay cups and browse their cool merch to take a little of the vibe home.
Stepa: A relaxed all-day haunt on Asklipiou Street, Stepa blends quality coffee with an easy-going atmosphere. By night, it shifts into a mellow bar scene, perfect for low-key drinks and conversation.
Tigre: This cheerful café-bar serves up rich brews from Caféistas alongside brunch favourites like sourdough, eggs, and graviera.
Sepia Art Café: A beloved local fixture, Sepia draws a creative crowd with its artsy interiors, wide tea selection, and budget-friendly cocktails.
Alexandrino Café Bistro: Channelling Parisian elegance, Alexandrino pairs smooth jazz with beautifully brewed coffee and sweet or savoury bites. A charming daytime escape with attentive service and a soulful atmosphere.
Café Diplo: With old-school charm and occasional live music, Café Diplo is a low-key spot to enjoy your coffee with character. It’s simple, authentic, and effortlessly Exarcheia.
Motiv: Located just near Omonoia Square, Motiv is a sleek newcomer offering specialty coffee, buttery croissants, and fresh pastries. It’s part café, part concept store- ideal for a stylish refuel.
Lunch + Dinner
Ama Lachei: Set in a former schoolyard, this Exarcheia favourite serves meze with a creative Greek twist in a leafy, lantern-lit garden.
Pharaoh: A chef-led wine and dine experience where seasonal Greek plates meet a knockout wine list. The vibe is cool, creative, and always buzzing.
To Rini: Tucked behind the Archaeological Museum, To Rini brings modern flair to traditional Greek dishes in a laid-back, stylish space. Don’t skip the chamomile panna cotta- it’s divine.
Prigkipas: This beloved street food joint delivers bold Greek flavours using ethically sourced meats from small producers across the country. Come for the Florina gyros, stay for the farm-to-table soul.
Salero: A cosy, art-filled space serving Mediterranean–Spanish fusion, with standout paella and a loyal local following. Perfect for unhurried dinners and good wine.
Raraou: Modern Greek comfort food is elevated in this intimate, creative hideaway. Ask for the daily specials- they rarely miss.
Frumel: A vintage-style spot for raki and meze, Frumel champions traditional Greek flavours made from small-batch local ingredients. It’s relaxed, rustic, and full of heart.
Valtezianna 2.0: This is artisan pizza at its best, with a 48-hour fermented sourdough base and seasonal Greek toppings. Soulful, simple, and instantly craveable.
Black Salami Microbakery: Known for the best sandwiches in town, Black Salami draws early crowds for its flavour-packed creations. Grab one to go or snag a sidewalk seat if you’re lucky.
Sweets + Bakeries
Portatif: Charming and cinematic, this French-inspired café is beloved for its dreamy éclairs, lemon tarts, gelato, and pistachio cake.
Sorolop: This cult late-night patisserie is famed for its chocolate profiterole, creamy tsourekia, and gelato. A go-to for post-dinner sugar cravings in Exarcheia.
Hygge: A serene Scandinavian bakery offering sourdough buns with Comté, pumpkin-seed oat flakes, and whipped butter. Everything here is simple, seasonal, and soul-warming.
Kora Bakery: A modern sourdough and viennoiserie haven, known for its long-fermented breads and buttery pastries. Expect refined flavours, creative twists, and lines out the door.
Wine + Cocktails
Tanini Agapi Mou: A natural wine haven with over 100 Greek labels, from rare varietals to biodynamic stars. It’s a love letter to low-intervention winemaking in a warm, buzzy setting.
Sousourada: Creative cocktails, cool crowd, and an offbeat, artsy vibe define this Exarcheia favourite. It’s where locals go for good drinks and even better energy.
Warehouse: With raw interiors, DJ sets, and a serious wine list, Warehouse brings underground minimalism to life.
Enikos: A peaceful bar with poetic charm, Enikos is lined with books and artwork gifted by loyal regulars. It’s been a go-to for meaningful conversation since the ’90s.
Ippopotamos: Since 1978, this retro courtyard bar has served sangria, Greek craft beers, and laid-back charm. Nestled between Exarcheia and Kolonaki, it’s timeless and effortlessly cool.
Di Lien: Stylish and unpretentious, Di Lien mixes brunch, natural wine, and late-night funk with ease. Grab a street-side seat and let the soundtrack carry you into the night.
Bonnot: A vibrant cocktail bar with a bold spirit and an ever-changing drinks list. The vibe is upbeat, eclectic, and unmistakably Exarcheia.
Gamay: A cosy corner wine bar pouring Greek gems and international “strangers” by the glass. Pair your pick with burrata, jamon, or even pastitsio tartare.
Steez: Steez nails the balance of craft and cool, with seasonal cocktails and a low-waste ethos. Expect soulful beats, bold flavours, and a totally current crowd.
Gonia: Housed in a 1930s gem, Gonia blurs the line between bar and design studio with terrazzo slabs and curated ceramics. A martini in hand, and maybe a tile under your arm.
See + Do
Visit Kallidromiou Farmers’ Market
Every Saturday, Kallidromiou Street comes alive with one of Athens’ best open-air markets, set beneath graffiti-covered steps and blooming balconies. Locals fill their baskets with fresh produce, olives, herbs, and honey, chatting with farmers and swapping cooking tips. Grab a coffee or a cheeky morning tsipouro nearby and soak up Exarcheia’s laid-back, weekend pulse.
Secondhand Shopping
Vintage lovers, take note: Exarcheia’s second-hand scene is full of charm and character. Along Ippokratous Street, you’ll find boutiques like BOHBO and Yesterday’s Bread, where pre-loved treasures from across Europe are given a new lease on life. Expect one-of-a-kind fashion, timeless accessories, and a serious dose of retro attitude.
Record Stores
From crate-diggers to casual vinyl fans, Exarcheia’s record shops are a true draw. Legendary stores like Discobole and Le Disque Noir carry everything from techno and indie rock to jazz, funk, and rare classical pressings. It’s a haven for audiophiles looking for soul, sound, and something a little different.
For Book Lovers
Exarcheia is one of Athens’ most bookish corners, with shelves spilling from independent shops and market stalls alike. Wander Themistokleous and Ippokratous for rare finds and literary classics, or pop into beloved spots like Politeia and Polyglot for multilingual titles. It’s a beautiful way to experience the city’s intellectual spirit firsthand.
National Archaeological Museum
Just on the edge of Exarcheia, this vast 19th-century museum is a must for lovers of ancient history. With over 11,000 exhibits, it showcases the full sweep of Greek civilization- from Cycladic idols to golden masks and classical sculpture.
Getting there…
Exarcheia is about 10–15 minutes from Syntagma, the closest metro stations are Omonia (Red & Green Line) and Panepistimio (Red Line).
Main image by Gamay
