From Porto Katsiki and Agiofili to local tavernas, sunset dinners and wine bars, discover how our editors like to spend summer days in Lefkada with favourite beaches, restaurants and insider tips.

Most people arrive in Lefkada with a list of beaches they want to see, with the temptation of trying to squeeze two or three into the same day. However, this is a much bigger island than many visitors expect. Distances can be deceptive, roads are winding and, in the middle of summer, the last place you’ll want to be is sitting in a car as temperatures climb.

We’ve found there’s a much better way to experience Lefkada, and that is to choose one beach, arrive early, settle in for the day and find somewhere nearby for lunch before heading back for another swim.

And of course, Porto Katsiki is still the beach everyone wants to experience, and with good reason. The towering white cliffs, brilliant turquoise water and dramatic setting are every bit as impressive in person. Parking is at the top before a long flight of stairs leads down to the beach, so it’s worth arriving as early as possible, particularly during July and August. There are no longer organised sunbeds, and natural shade is limited, so we recommend getting your hands on an umbrella, which you can bring with you, otherwise they sell them at the top.

Agiofili is another beach we always make time for, which is reached by boat from Vasiliki. Its calm, clear water makes it easy to spend hours here without feeling the need to move on, however there is no taverna nearby, so you will need to bring food with you. We like to grab a few tiropites and spanakopites from one of the local bakeries in Vasiliki before hopping on the boat, and there is a little kiosk at the beach, so you don’t need to worry about water or other drinks. For a quieter beach day, Ammoussa Bay and nearby Afteli are two of the places we often visit, as they both have a more local feel, easy parking, and a good beach bar and restaurant on site.

Kathisma and Egremni are undeniably beautiful, particularly on a clear summer’s day when the colours of the Ionian almost seem unreal. Both beaches, however, can become quite rough when the wind picks up, so while they’re spectacular places to visit, they aren’t always the beaches we would choose for a long, relaxed swim but, of course, if it’s your first time in Lefkada, you may want to check them out.

With most days revolving around the beach, nights become more about where to eat, and some of our favourites include To Balkonaki Tis Zois in the village of Agios Petros, where traditional dishes include stuffed zucchini flowers, dolmades and saganaki, and Sesoula Tavern in Dragano, another family-run favourite worth seeking out. Errikos is ideal if you love seafood, while T’Agnantio in Agios Nikitas is another great stop if you’re exploring the west coast. And if you are looking for something more modern and refined, check out Thymari in Lefkada Town.

If you’re only booking one dinner while you’re in Lefkada, we would make it Rachi in Exanthia. Be sure to reserve well in advance, particularly during the summer months, as tables fill quickly. We always book for before sunset, which gives us time to order a drink and watch the light slowly change over the Ionian before dinner is served. 

Speaking of food, the island is known for its lentils, or fakes, which are grown across the island and appear on menus in everything from simple soups to fresh salads. Traditional tavernas also serve excellent rooster slow-cooked in tomato sauce, local sykoti sausage and some of the best salami you’ll find in the Ionian.

And when it comes to heading out for a drink, Xartes Bar and Mavros Lagos Wine Bar in Lefkada Town are both favourites for a relaxed vibe, and if sunset cocktails are on the agenda, Fly Me (right next to Rachi) is another spot we happily return to.

Beyond the Nidri Waterfalls, which make a pleasant detour if you have the time, we also recommend visiting the fishing villages of Sivota and Agios Nikitas. But let’s be honest, we come here for long days by the sea, lazy lunches, sunset dinners and the simple pleasure of knowing that tomorrow you’ll wake up and do it all again.