Rhodes, Symi, Kos and Leros are some of the Dodecanese islands that are included in a new 42 million euro project for the protection and preservation of their archaeological sites and historical monuments that date back to Medieval, Byzantine, and Ottoman times.
The Greek Minister of Culture and Sports Lina Mendoni announced the new project, that will be financed by the Recover Fund, during a recent visit to Rhodes’ Medieval Town.
“Care for our smaller islands is of utter importance. Apart from the 16,800,000 euros that we secured for the restoration and reopening of the National Theatre of Rhodes, there are now many other projects that we have secured for the Medieval City, which will be of huge benefit not only for Rhodes and the Dodecanese,” said Minister Mendoni.
Medieval Town of Rhodes
Works will be completed in Rhodes, Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Symi, Halki and Agathonisi.
“The cultural project that’s being launched today on all our islands is unprecedented. In the first phase, works will be completed in Rhodes, Kos, Agathonisi, Leros, Kalymnos and all the other islands will follow after that with prioritisation and above all abundance of interest and care,” said Regional Governor of the South Aegean, George Chatzimarkos added.
Projects include the creation of an integrated historic centre in the Medieval settlement of Rhodes, as well as the development of an open-air museum at the Medieval port, and the maintenance and restoration of the Rejep Pasha mosque.
Kos will see a restoration of the Neratzia Castle and the early Christian baptistery of Agios Ioannis; as well as works on the Defterdar mosque and the Purification Fountain, plus reconstruction of an Italian arcade and the creation of an open-air sculpture gallery at Nerantzia Castle.
In addition, Kalymnos’ Venetian windmills will be restored; Leros will see a former hotel in Lakki restored; Symi will have its bell tower at the church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos restored; whereas the Panagia Horiani Church and Archaeological Museum in Halki will have works done.Lastly, works will also take place at Agathonisi’s Thematic Archaeological Museum.
A small, authentic, undiscovered island, located in the northern Dodecanese; Leros boasts charming harbors, coves and inlets protected from the winds.
There are also shipwrecks, a war tunnel museum, a natural port (one of the largest in the Mediterranean) that transports you to Italy, four marinas, pristine nature, different types of architecture, and very rich history. Are you ready to explore it?
What you need to know before you arrive
Leros is a tiny island on the Dodecanese
-Leros is a little island in the Dodecanese, located between Patmos and Kalymnos. Thanks to its location, Leros is perfect for island hopping to Patmos, Kalymnos, and Lipsi.
-Leros has a population of about 8500 inhabitants, which makes the island very distinct.
-From 1958 to 1995, Leros was home to one of the largest psychiatric hospitals in Europe. The island was economically dependent on the mental hospital since entire families worked there as guardians, but the hospital’s terrible living conditions affected the locals working there.
-During the junta of the Colonels, the island was used as a place of internal exile for political protestors.
Stay at a locally owned apartment
Getting there
You can reach Leros island by sea or air. Ferries from Athens to Leros depart from Pireaus about four times a week. The trip lasts approximately 8 hours. Leros is also connected by ferry with Rhodes, Patmos, Kos, Kalymnos and Lipsi. During summer, ferries run between the islands of the Dodecanese almost every day. Leros Municipal Airport receives only domestic flights from Athens International Airport “Eleftherios Venizelos”. The flight from Athens to Leros lasts 50 minutes.
Where to stay- An ideal area to stay is in Alinda or Panteli.
Tips for getting around
Hire a car or Vespa
Leros has a bus network that connects you with the busiest places. Yet we recommend renting a car or motorbike in order to explore the island at your own pace and visit places you can’t reach by public transport. We rented our car from MOTOLAND in Panteli, founded in 1996 by Mr. Ilias who has been involved in the car and moto market of Leros for the last 15 years (Tel. +30 22470 26400).
Bear in mind that there are a lot of Vespas on the island. Plus, the employees of the municipality move around on a Vespa, a culture left by the Italians. There is even a motorcycle club, under the name of MOL.
Best time to visit- July and August are the two months in Leros when most travelers arrive on the island. Also, the weather temperature peaks during this period. On the other hand, June and September are not so busy and still quite warm, so they are the ideal months to enjoy the island.
Nefeli Hotel near Agia Marina
Where to sleep
Nefeli Hotel: It is located in a peaceful spot next to Agia Marina town, very close to the beach of Kritoni in Leros.
Alea Mare: This renovated hotel right by the sea is set in the beautiful village of Alinda.
Irene Hotel: Just70metres from the beach of Alinda, this hotel is ideal for families.
Panteli Beach Studios: Located at the feet of the picturesque Platanos village, just a few meters from a sandy beach.
Where to eat
Enjoy some of the freshest seafood at Milos
Milos restaurant: Located in front of a traditional windmill, with the breathtaking view of Agia Marina, this restaurant specializes in seafood and pasta recipes cooked with modern culinary techniques. It’s one of the best seafood restaurants on Leros if not the Dodecanese.
Psaropoula: A family-owned and run seafood taverna since 1962, set right by the water, on the beach of Panteli.
El Greco: A traditional taverna in Panteli, right on the sea; serving traditional recipes from Leros combined with modern Greek bistro cuisine.
Dimitris o Karaflas: Set in Spilia, whichlies between Panteli and Vromolithos; they serve tasty food and offer a nice view.
Enjoy traditional meals around town
Sotos: Located in Drymonas, come here for delicious fish appetizers.
Petrino: Perfect for grilled meat in Lakki.
To Paradosiakon: Housed in a historic Italianate mansion on the waterfront of Agia Marina, this is perfect for anyone with a sweet tooth.
What to eat
Gavafes, a tropical fruit (citrus-flavored type of guava grown only on Leros), was brought over by Greek-Egyptians; and has a very intense aroma.
Patsavouropita (yogurt syrup cake)
Delicious Patsavouropita
Pougkakia (almond and mandarin pastries)
Ladotyri, a local cheese
Salted kolios (fish)
Soumada. Don’t pass up the opportunity to quench your thirst with this locally produced drink!
Where to drink
Calvo Café-Pub in Agia Marina, set in a beautiful old red building right by the sea.
Meltemi, right on the sea in Agia Marina.
View cafe-bar-restaurant, located at the castle, overlooking Agia Marina.
Apothiki Night-Club for Greek music.
Where to swim
Stunning turquoise waters
Dyo Liskaria: Charming windless cove with deep blue waters. An organized beach with shops nearby. Chill at Zephyros Beach bar.
Alinda: One of the largest beaches of Leros. Organized beach with blue waters, shops and tavernas nearby.
Panteli: Famous beach of Leros. Here you will find one of the largest beach bars on the island, while nearby there are other shops and mini markets.
Agia Kioura: An isolated sandy beach with blue waters surrounded by nature. Take with you water, food and an umbrella. Don’t forget to visit the church Agia Kioura.
Vromolithos: A popular sandy beach with facilities next to the local settlement.
Agia Marina: One of the most famous beaches of the island with shallow, clear waters.
Agia Marina
Xirokampos: Quite a large, sandy beach with deep waters that are suitable for diving. Near Xirokampos there is a small rocky beach, Panagia Kavouradena, for those seeking privacy and tranquility.
Agios Spyridonas: A small beach with sand and pebbles, that stands out for its clear blue waters and the shipwrecked boat on the shore.
Krithoni: Well-known organized beach with clear waters, fine pebbles and umbrellas. There are also tall trees around.
Koulouki: These are three consecutive coves, with fine, light sand, cool waters, surrounded by imposing pines and lush vegetation. At the middle beach, there is a snack bar with snacks and drinks.
Merikia: Beautiful, quiet beach near Koulouki, with crystal clear waters and large tamarisk trees that protect from the sun.
Discover history
-According to myth, Leros island was where the ancient Greek goddess of hunting, Artemis, used to go hunting, thanks to the island’s large deer population.
-During the Byzantine period, Constantine the Great, incorporated Leros into the theme of Samos, and many magnificent Christian churches were built as well as the castle and the Panagia (Blessed Virgin) church on the hills.
Explore historical sites
-In 1314, Leros was occupied by the tyrannical Knights of St. John of Rhodes who governed it until the Turks invaded and took command of the entire Aegean archipelago.
-After the independence of Greece in 1829, all the Dodecanese islands were ceded to Turkey by the London Protocol in exchange for Euboea. From 1912 to 1943, the island was occupied by the Italians and during this time, the intention was to develop Leros into an Italian naval base. Over several decades important defense work was carried out and military installations were built with a new deep-sea port created at Laki. Many buildings were demolished and, in their place, grand buildings were erected in the new, modern style that is now associated with the Fascist architecture of the 1930s.
-During World War II, the Greek Sacred Battalion, together with the British alliance liberated the island from Italian occupancy. However, after almost 50 days of bombardment from German air raids, the Germans went on to occupy the island until the end of the war in 1945. This was further followed by a two-year occupation by English armed forces, which culminated in March 1948, with Leros and the whole of the Dodecanese finally being united with Greece.
Charming villages
Must visit villages – Leros is dotted with picturesque villages. The most popular of them are Alinda, Panteli and Agia Marina.
Culture/traditions of the island
-During the first two weeks of August, the wine festival of Leros is held in Xirokambos, where you can taste some –Lerian wine and enjoy traditional dances and local musicians of Leros.
-Every August, the Municipality of Leros organizes the Alindia festival, featuring athletic and other cultural events.
-The three Moon Festival is held in June, July and August (one for each full moon) with artists from all over Greece displaying their work in charming buildings of Leros.
Bougainvillea filled island
-The Feast of Trata is held every year in September in Panteli, where the fishermen cook their fish and offer them to guests.
-In August, the celebration of Drymonas takes place on the local beach, where a Lerian cuisine festival is held with plenty of wine, food and dance, to the sounds of traditional and folk music.
-Gourna is the representation of the traditional threshing that takes place, free traditional appetizers and wine are offered with the sounds of a lyrical feast.
-One of the major events in Leros is the feast of Agia Marina on July 17th, which lasts two days and also the glorious celebrations of the 15th of August, when thousands of pilgrims arrive in Leros that day, at the church of Panagia of Kastro, the patron saint of the island, in Platanos village.
Do as locals do…
Dance at Disco Diana. Open from 1978 until the beginning of 2000. In 2019 it reopened with a disco ball and music from the ’90s. Its name (Diana) means Artemis, the Goddess of hunting, who is connected with Leros.
Insider tips- If you are departing by ship at 10:30 pm for Piraeus, before leaving head to “Leon” at the port for the tastiest souvlaki.
Ideal time to spend here? Leros is a small island and you won’t need too long. Three days should be enough to see everything, except if you want more time just to really relax.
Long days of R&R
Favorite part? The most picturesque site on Leros is the windmills in Pandeli, on the way to the castle.
What to avoid?
Don’t try to find nightlife in Lakki, there is not much happening. The nightlife of the island beats in the heart of Agia Marina.
Sometimes buses do not stick to the timetable. Avoid waiting at the bus stop if you have another option.
Top activities
Scuba diving and snorkeling. Leros is gradually developing into a popular scuba diving destination in the Aegean Sea, due to the rocky coasts, the emerald water, and the old shipwrecks in the surrounding sea bottom. Popular Leros diving sites are the large Queen Olga Destroyer at the port of Lakki, the Anti-Submarine ship in the bay of Partheni and the wreck of German bomber Henkel-111 in the bay of Blefouti.
Here are some diving centers in Leros: Hydrovius Diving Center is a PADI resort on Leros island.
Landmark windmills
Camping and Diving Leros club is situated in the southern part of the island, really close to a quiet, small beach, ideal for diving or snorkeling.
Hiking. There are trails all across Leros. One of the most charming routes is from thevillage of Xirokambos, in the south, to theCape of Diaporo. It takes between an hour and an hour and a half. Along the way, you’ll spot an old Italian military building with wall paintings created by soldiers during World War II.
Where to shop
Aspronisi boutique is a chic concept store with Greek designers’ creations and a range of accessories.
Chic concept store
Ageri island boutique has exclusive Greek fashion brands, handmade accessories, unique art and home decor items.
Fegaropetra stocks handmade jewellery and accessories.
Keramika Lerou (Artemisio-Sifounios Pottery) has amazing pottery that are made in the shop by Mr Sifounios Makis.
To Leriko stocks gifts, handmade jewellery and clothing.
What to see
-The Medieval Castle, originally built by the Byzantines on the site of an ancient temple and then restored by the Venetians.
-The flour mill at the port of Agia Marina, an architectural model of a 20th-century windmill.
An island filled with rich culture
-The Historical and Folklore Museum, housed in Bellenis Tower, on the way to Alinda. It includes photos from the Second World War, traditional instruments, old maps, and manuscripts, among other artifacts.
-The lovely chapel of Agios Isidoros, on the islet of Alinda that is connected to the land by a narrow passage. Built on the site of an ancient temple, it offers nice views, especially in the sunset.
-The church of Prophet Ilias by the sea, beneath the Castle of Panteli.
-The church of Agia Marina, made of stone with two bell towers. Tradition says that fishermen found an icon of the Virgin Mary here while they were looking for crabs.
-The Castle of Xirokambos, built in Medieval times on the site of an ancient acropolis.
-The Archaeological Museum, housed in a Neoclassical building in Agia Marina that dates from 1882. It houses collections of prehistoric findings, small statues and ceramics from the Geometrical era.
-The War Museum, which opened in 2005 and housed in a tunnel built by the Italians during the Second World War.
Polina discovering parts of the town
-The War Memorial in Lakki, the port of Leros, commemorates the attack of German bombers on the Greek destroyer Vasilissa Olga, during the Second World War.
-The Ecclesiastical Museum, housed in the Castle of Panteli. It hosts an ecclesiastical collection with Byzantine icons, gospels, candlesticks, and holy items as well as an archaeological collection with statues and vases.
-The Aerofono is an acoustic wall. The military employed blind people, who were thought to have better hearing capabilities, in order to listen to military movements in the area.
-The church of Agia Kioura. Political prisoners, including Manolis Glezos and the visual artists’ Kir. Tsakiris, Ant. Karagiannis and T. Tzaneteas that were imprisoned in a large military facility near the church painted icons on the walls of the church in 1968. The paintings are protected by the Ministry of Civilization as a work of art.
Take a day trip to…
Sail to nearby islands
Discover islands with turquoise waters like other Robinsons with the traditional boats “Barbarossa” and “Agios Georgios” that leave daily from the island’s capital, Agia Marina. You will enjoy ouzo and local handmade delicacies on the boat – as if you have escaped with friends until you find yourself on the soil of Aspronissia, Makronisi and Tiganakia. The few residents of Arki, Lipsi and Marathi will welcome you like family. Sometimes on your return, if you are lucky enough, you may enjoy the company of dolphins.
What to do
-Enjoy a wine tasting experience at Hatzidakis Winery, where you can discover the whole process of winemaking from the grape to the barrel. Mr Giorgios Hatzidakis himself will explain everything to you. himself. Certainly, you will taste different kinds of wine served with local mezedes.
Admire the Italian influence
-Admire the special architecture that has been influenced by the Cycladic islands but also by Italians and Alexandrians. Lakki, the capital of the island was designed by Italians and the most notable landmarks are the cyclical market with the clock tower, the church of St. Francis of Assisi, the lovely barracks on the edge of the waterfront, the theatre, and the hotel ‘Roma.’
-Learn about the history of the psychiatric hospital on the island. Italians during their occupation built small districts of unique buildings for the Italian Admiralty. Many years later, in 1957 the Greek government decided these abandoned buildings be converted into a psychiatric hospital. The bad conditions were highly criticized especially during the ’80s and ’90s and Leros island was stigmatized as a “shrink island” for a couple of decades.
Magical sunsets
-Visit Merikia tunnel, around Lakki, which was the maritime administration of Italians, who remained in Leros for 31 years (1912- 1943). During the Second World War, the Germans tried to recapture Leros due to its strategic and geographical location by bombarding it for 52 days until they finally conquered it.
-Watch the retro vehicle show, held every summer, or drive a vintage car or motorcycle around Leros.
Can’t leave until
You catch a boat to the tiny, uninhabited island of Αrchangelos, where there is only one taverna with amazing home-cooked Greek food and a sandy beach. A pure idyllic location. You need to arrive on your own boat or call the restaurant to ask them to pick you up with their boat.
Did you know?
Views from up top
-The story of the famous novel “Guns of Navarone” is based on the Battle of Leros, and Leros island’s coastal artillery guns that were built and used by the Italians and subsequently the Germans.
-Many local songs of Leros are among the most famous nisiotika (island) songs of Greece (“Pote Tha’nixoume Pania”, “Pos to Trivun to Piperi”, “Mes tou Aegeou ta Nisia”).
-The poet Giannis Ritsos was exiled to Partheni. It was here that he was inspired to create the oeuvre “18 lianotragouda tis pikris patridas” that was set to music by Mikis Theodorakis along with the magnificent “Ti Romiosini min tin klais”.
-Lerikos is the name of a local dance. In addition, the dance Issos is performed in Leros island.
*Special thanks to Mr Manolis Mathioudakis, Chairman of the Hoteliers of Leros for his valuable help in making this trip happen.
In the heart of Leros, you will find a mid-19th Century summer home, which has been beautifully renovated to become one of the most authentic and cozy places to stay at this under-the-radar Dodecanese island.
If you are looking for a getaway that will enable you to feel like a local, Casa Leros 1850 is the perfect place to stay; just footsteps from the stunning Aegean Sea, this charming home allows guests to capture Greek island life in all its glory.
IN+SIGHTS GREECE recently spoke with owner Dimitris Georgiou, who tells us about what makes the home so unique and he also shares travel tips on the best things to see and do while visiting Leros island.
Tell us about the renovations you made and how would you describe the look/feel of Casa Leros 1850?
It’s a traditional island home nestled under a tree in the bay of Alinda on the island of Leros. While renovating, we wanted to maintain its initial structure dating back to the 19th Century, characterised by thick stone walls, and petite window sizes, used by locals in the past for best protection against any form of threat from foreign enemies trying to invade the island. The renovations we made have allowed the house to keep its old traditional charm. It’s a place that encourages guests to walk barefoot, feel the summer breeze, and ultimately feel at home.
It features two bedrooms and two bathrooms. What other main indoor/outdoor spaces are there?
The house also features a fully equipped kitchen, a laundry with a washing machine, and ample outdoor space with a seating area, two dining areas, a hammock, and a garden.
What makes Casa Leros 1850 such a special place to stay at?
We think the uniqueness comes from the particular character it exudes. The property highlights traditional Greek island architecture and design. When staying at Casa Leros you instantly feel like a local who is travelling back in time. The house is also privileged to be nestled under a large tree providing great natural shade or light (depending on the time of day), it allows total privacy and is a stone’s throw from the sea (80 meters). It offers a truly relaxing setup for guests while maintaining its local charm.
Who is your summer home most suitable for?
Every year we have all sorts of guests stay at Casa Leros. From couples to families, that range from young ages through to older visitors. One thing is for sure – they are all looking for something authentic. An “experience” as opposed to your typical accommodation. And we think that’s what they are getting.
Tell us about the location of the house, what is close by?
As mentioned, it’s on the bay of Alinda in Leros, 80 meters from the sea, so it’s ideal for those looking for a spontaneous morning or afternoon swim. It’s also close to several picturesque seafront fish taverns and bars, offering amazing Greek delicacies and carefree evening strolls by the sea. While walking on the bay of Alinda, you also get to enjoy a great view of the Medieval Castle of Leros sitting opposite the bay.
Do you personally greet your guests upon arrival?
We commute back and forth between Leros and Athens. There are times when we greet our guests ourselves, and times when our wonderful partners do. There is always a local point of contact available at all times for whatever our guests might need regarding their stay, the island, or anything else they require.
Is the home available for rent all year round?
Casa Leros is available from March through to November.
When is the perfect time to visit Leros?
Leros is an unpretentious island, untouched by mass tourism which helps you see its true colours and character. There is not really a “best month” to visit as it typically comes down to what it is you are looking for. May and June are typically more quiet months, while July through to September tends to get busier. For those seeking a quiet stay away from crowded restaurants and beaches, any period beyond the end of July/August is great. We have guests who come as early as April and others in October, where you can also enjoy a swim in the sea.
What makes Leros unique?
For those looking for a traditional, authentic island life, Leros should be on the top of your list. Anyone looking for an off-the-beaten-path summer destination, something unpretentious, to get a feel for Greek island life, Leros is your place. If you wish to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, travel back in time, Leros is it.
Can you please share a few of your favourite local eateries?
Mylos Fish Tavern in Agia Marina, Prima Aneplora in Alinda, El Greco in Panteli, Skipper’s in Lakki, View Restaurant (by the windmills on the way to the castle). For coffee and sweets, I recommend Paradosiako Patisserie in Agia Marina and Lime Beach Bar in Lakki.
View Restaurant
Taverna Mylos
Are there any local dishes/delicacies people should try when visiting Leros?
Anything fish-related as Leros is famous for its top-quality fish. Also taste ‘Patsavouropita,’ it’s a local dessert and it’s delicious.
Best beaches in Leros?
Agia Kioura, Vromolithos, Dia Liskaria are beautiful. Boat trips to Aspronisia, Lipsi, and Tiganakia are also highly recommended.
What historical sites are a must-see for first-time visitors to Leros?
The Medieval Castle of Leros, the War Museum of Leros, plus the Archaeological Museum of Leros. And for those into scuba-diving, you have the opportunity to see a shipwreck from WWII.
One thing people should not miss when visiting Leros?
Walk or drive up to the Medieval Castle of Leros to witness a 360-degree view of Leros and a breathtaking sunset.
Finally, what do you think is the most memorable experience when staying at Casa Leros?
The opportunity to live in a house that truly embodies the island’s character. The opportunity to feel like a local. The opportunity to connect with nature while blending in seamlessly with the local environment. The opportunity to live with less; but it feels like more.
If you would rather enjoy your holiday staying at a beautiful and meticulously maintained 19th Century villa than a standard hotel, the Archontiko Angelou is the ideal place for you.
What was once the owner’s family’s summer mansion has today become Greece’s only hotel with not only a love for nature and the romantic beauty of the past but also healthy vegan-vegetarian and gluten-free cuisine. With a lovely, sprawling garden and rooms decorated in an old fashioned yet contemporarily comfortable style, the hotel wants its guests above all to feel at home. Homemade jams and other foods are lovingly prepared for guests to enjoy a truly home-like and authentic traditional experience.
Location In Alinda fishing village, Leros island, in the Dodecanese. Once called the ‘island of Artemis, with a temple erected in honour of the Goddess of Hunting, the island is near Patmos and Turkey.
Services Wanting to be more like a summer mansion than a modern hotel, this place has few services. Yet the very accommodating proprietor and staff are happy to help guests arrange outings like boat trips, and can rustle up a meal for you if you prefer to stay in than visit a fish tavern at the beach a few minutes away. The hotel offers room service too and has WiFi access.
Style and Character
With many original furnishings and decorative items belonging to owner Marianna’s family, the Angelou Mansion, built in 1895, transports its guests to a different era. A time when one could enjoy their summer sojourn with relaxing meals in the garden, swims at the lovely nearby Alinda beach and reading lazily in a breezy bedroom during siesta time. Evenings are quiet too, and ideal for sitting with friends to sip wine in the garden, which is surrounded by farmlands, and enjoy relaxing chats. The garden is indeed one of the hotel’s greatest attributes, with well cared for olive trees, a carob tree, vines, figs, prickly pears, myrtle, pomegranates, lemons, oranges, tangerines, grapefruit, guavas, plums, apricots, tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, cucumbers and other vegetables, greens and herbs.
A Yoga space has also been created in the garden under the huge trees.
The transportive ambience of this place adds to the sensed of understated luxury – the luxury especially of being away from the noise of social media, modernity and high-speed living. In fact, the hotel states that it has “consciously avoided” including television sets in the rooms.
Rooms
The 10 elegant and vintage rooms at Archontiko Angelou are each individually decorated with antique furniture and minimal yet charming traditional style. The rooms of the top floor have are high-ceilinged and look out to the garden and surrounding fields, and the ground-floor rooms have thick stone walls and cooler temperatures. The rooms are decorated with a combination of original furnishings and décor from the family’s summer mansion and other antique furniture. The beds have CocoMat mattresses and top-mattresses, and the bathrooms, which include natural organic toiletries, have been decked with replicas of the original early 1900’s tiles and fittings.
Food and drinks
An abundant vegan-vegetarian and gluten-free (optional) breakfast is served in the garden under the shade of a jararaca tree. Most of the flavoursome and nutritious foods are organic and homemade, sourced from ingredients grown in the garden or bought locally. In the garden, there is also a little bar where guests can grab a coffee or fresh juice. Raw food options are also available.
