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How We Spent Our Greek Summer: Part Three

For Part Three of How We Spent Our Greek Summer series, IN+SIGHTS GREECE Culture Editor Marina Tsekoura, takes us from the wild landscapes and incredible food of Crete to an unexpected escape to Lesvos, before wrapping up summer in Mykonos.

What began with a wedding in western Crete turned into a journey across the island, shaped largely by local recommendations, spontaneous discoveries and plenty of good food along the way. From the turquoise waters of Balos and quiet days in Palaiochora to traditional Cretan feasts and dancing under the August full moon, Crete quickly became one of Marina’s standout destinations of the summer.

Then came Lesvos- an unplanned invitation that led to secluded beaches and sunset drinks in Molyvos- followed by a final few days in Mykonos, where elegant sunset cocktails, late nights in Chora and the island’s unmistakable energy provided the perfect end to summer 2026.

Here, Marina shares the places, flavours and experiences she loved most, along with a few discoveries she’ll be returning for.

Insights Greece - How We Spent Our Greek Summer: Part Three

Where did you travel in Greece this summer?

Almost all around Crete, plus a few days in Lesvos and Mykonos.

Who did you travel with?

Friends who live all around Europe, for the wedding of our mutual friends. It was a wonderful opportunity for a reunion. The invitation to Crete also gave us the perfect excuse to spend time together, travel around and discover places in southern Crete.

For Lesvos and Mykonos, I visited friends who live and work there.

How did you pick which places to visit?

My itinerary in Crete was shaped by recommendations from local friends and their favourite places. The wedding I was invited to was in Kissamos, Chania, so I was based for four days in the western part of the region, enjoying days at nearby famous beaches such as Balos and Falasarna.

After that, I saw it as a great opportunity to strategically plan the rest of my holiday and move towards southern Chania. I stayed in Palaiochora and Sfakia, with the idea of making the most of that part of the island. For the last three days, I moved on to the larger cities of Rethymno and Heraklion, spending my days trying local dishes, strolling around and enjoying the urban centres too.

Lesvos came out of nowhere, as a local friend invited me there, and it turned out to be a truly beautiful island full of nature.

Mykonos was my last stop. There’s no need to say it’s one of the most popular islands in the Mediterranean, famous for its vibrant nightlife and elegant bars and restaurants. For me, it was exactly what I needed as a summer ’26 wrap-up.

The place you loved most?

I fell in love with the whole of Crete. The hospitality, natural landscape, beaches and local dishes make this place so unique, special, true, authentic and eternally mesmerising.

Best swim?

Balos and Falasarna are amazing beaches with crystal-clear waters. Balos is part of a protected Natura area; you pay a small fee before entering to help preserve the natural landscape, then park your car and hike for around 20 minutes, admiring the breathtaking views of Gramvousa and the turquoise waters from above.

Loutro Beach, near Sfakia, had the cleanest waters and the serenity we all seek during summer.

Krifti Beach in Lesvos is a secret gem- a picturesque, cliff-lined beach with sapphire waters. It’s accessed by boat, and we chose a Krifti boat trip to get there.

Best brunch?

Theorist in Rethymno- a laid-back brunch spot and book café with tasty brunch dishes, freshly baked croissants, great coffee and the perfect atmosphere for a slow summer morning in Crete.

Soulmates in Mykonos- a tiny hidden gem tucked away in the winding streets of Chora, serving delicious sandwiches and fresh pies that make for the perfect easy daytime bite.

Best dinner?

Gramvousa in Kalyviani, Kissamos, near Chania, was by far my standout dinner of the summer. Set among the Cretan landscape, the restaurant grows and produces many of its own ingredients, bringing them straight from the land to the table. Combined with traditional Cretan recipes and a beautiful setting, it feels like much more than dinner, it’s a truly special Cretan experience.

The dish you couldn’t get enough of?

Impossible to choose just one, but antikristo and Sfakian pie were on repeat- two simple, authentic Cretan flavours I could happily try again and again.

Favourite bar or drink?

Zuma Mykonos for something more elegant and serene- sophisticated sunset drinks, beautiful views and a quieter atmosphere.

Scorpios for the complete opposite: more of a party mood, incredible energy and music, all set against one of the most beautiful landscapes in Mykonos. Both offer high-quality cocktails and drinks, along with sets from some of the most famous DJs from around the globe.

Your favourite sunset?

Molyvos, Lesvos- watching the sun slowly disappear into the Aegean, with the castle above and the village’s stone houses glowing in the last light.

The best view of the summer?

Gramvousa, Crete- looking down at the bay from above was easily one of my favourite views of the summer. The turquoise water, little boats scattered across the bay and the wild Cretan landscape around it made the whole scene feel almost unreal.

Molyvos deserves a mention too- sitting at one of the bars with a drink and looking across at the dramatic rock topped by the castle is a view I could never get tired of.

Crete is Greece’s largest island, what was it like travelling across so much of it?

It made me realise that Crete isn’t an island you can experience from just one place. Travelling from western Chania down to the south coast and then on to Rethymno and Heraklion felt like several trips in one. The landscapes, beaches, towns and even the pace of life changed as we moved around. I loved having the freedom to get in the car, follow recommendations from locals and discover somewhere completely different along the way. It’s definitely the kind of island that rewards exploring.

Your best unexpected discovery?

Fara Beach Ba- a beautiful little boho beach bar run by two brothers, hidden on an otherwise untouched beach with crystal-clear water and tiny pebbles. With its relaxed vibe, sunflowers and not much around except sea and nature, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay long after sunset and watch the stars. A lot of people also choose the area for camping.

Somewhere or something that completely lived up to the hype?

Mykonos itself. It may be one of Greece’s most talked-about islands, but the energy really is something else- beautiful beaches by day, sunset drinks, Chora buzzing at night and that effortless feeling that anything can happen. For me, it lived up to the hype.

A place you think deserves more attention?

The quieter side of Mykonos. Stay somewhere like Ano Mera and you’ll experience a completely different rhythm, far from the crowds and nightlife.

A scent you wish you could bottle up and take home?

The smell of the sea while travelling by ferry through the Aegean- salty air, summer breeze and that unmistakable feeling that another island is waiting for you.

The moment that felt most like a Greek summer?

The days I spent in Palaiochora, Chania- a small, peaceful seaside town where everything feels close and easy. I practically lived in my swimsuit and flip-flops from morning until night, going from swims to food and drinks without ever really thinking about the time. That sense of simplicity, comfort and complete freedom is Greek summer to me.

Another moment was dancing to traditional Cretan music at a local glendi- surrounded by people and live music under the August full moon.

One experience you would happily do all over again?

Bar-hopping in Mykonos, starting Friday evening with a relaxed drink at Zuma, then heading into Chora and letting the night unfold from one bar to the next until the early hours. No real plan, just following the energy of the island.

The best travel decision you made this summer?

Combining destinations instead of heading back to Athens in between. I flew straight from Heraklion to Mytilene- just an hour in the air, no unnecessary travel, and I gained an extra full day of summer.

Your best insider tip from this summer?

Travel light, you really don’t need as much as you think. Pack the essentials and always have a small backpack for long days out.

And if you’re combining destinations, check direct connections before going back through Athens- they can save you hours and give you more time to actually enjoy your summer.

Renting a car is essential for bigger islands like Lesvos and Crete, but there’s no need to drive when staying in Chora on the Cycladic islands.

One thing you always packed in your beach bag?

My NUXE Golden Sun Oil SPF50- sun protection, a golden glow and that unmistakable summer scent all in one.

Describe your Greek summer in three words.

Discover. Taste. Wander.

A golden rule for a Greek summer?

Don’t plan everything. Go with the flow, always ask the locals and trust their recommendations- they usually lead you to the most unexpected places and memorable experiences.

And there’s plenty more to come from Marina’s Greek summer. Over the coming months, she’ll be sharing more from her travels through Crete, Lesvos and Mykonos, taking a closer look at the places, food and experiences that stood out along the way. Stay tuned.

All images by Marina Tsekoura ©

The Mansions of Mytilene: A Legacy of Grandeur

A stroll through Mytilene is like stepping into an era of aristocratic splendor. Colourful, imposing mansions, some crowned with elegant towers, others nestled within lush gardens, stand as a testament to the city’s once-thriving industrial revolution.

No other city in Greece boasts such an eclectic architectural tapestry, making Mytilene a destination unlike any other.

Mytilene is majestic. Perhaps this is why, despite being merely the capital of Lesvos, it often lends its name to the entire island. It’s unforgettable, as it’s the kind of place that leaves an indelible mark. The moment you step out of Odysseas Elytis Airport, the city unfurls before you like a cinematic tableau: a stunning waterfront on one side, and, on the other, a procession of stately mansions, each vying for attention.

Insights Greece - The Mansions of Mytilene: A Legacy of Grandeur

These architectural masterpieces, built primarily between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, weave together a rich blend of influences. Think classical Greek foundations intertwined with European elements of Baroque, Neo-Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassical design. They are the elegant remnants of Mytilene’s golden age, when the city was a powerful trading hub supplying Russia, Egypt, the Ottoman Empire, and the European markets with its coveted olive oil, aromatic ouzo, and luxuriously scented soaps.

At the heart of this prosperity was a sophisticated, well-traveled elite; affluent merchants and industrialists who indulged in a silent yet fierce rivalry, each determined to outshine the next by constructing the most magnificent residence. The result? A wonderful display of architectural bravado, where grandeur knew no limits.

Tall arched windows, intricate wooden doors, sweeping marble staircases, and commanding columns define these mansions, whispering stories of an opulent past. Some remain private homes, while others have taken on new identities. The Grand Bretagne Hotel, the former Coast Guard headquarters, and the City Hall building all stand as emblematic relics of Mytilene’s aristocratic past. In the distinguished neighbourhood of Sourada, the famed “Mansion of Elytis” still overlooks the sea, where the celebrated poet Odysseas Elytis once gazed out from his veranda, drawing inspiration from the endless Aegean horizon.

Fortunately, many of these mansions have been meticulously preserved, allowing visitors to step back in time. Cross their thresholds, and you’ll find exquisite frescoes, hand-carved wooden ceilings, monogrammed porcelain tableware, and decorative knobs imported from Vienna, Paris, London, and Constantinople. French-style furnishings in the Louis XV and XVI traditions complete the picture of refined elegance.

Yet, preservation is a race against time. The island faces a shortage of skilled artisans capable of restoring its aging mansions and their distinctive pyrgelia (towers). Without intervention, many of these architectural jewels risk fading into obscurity. We can only hope that efforts will be made to safeguard this extraordinary heritage, ensuring that future generations can continue to marvel at the enduring beauty of Mytilene’s grand mansions- each a story of ambition, artistry, and an era that deserves to be remembered.

Greece travel Greek islands Lesvos Mytilene

Top 8 Experiences in Lesvos

Lesvos is a captivating Greek island known for its rich history, stunning mansions, and warm hospitality. And we’ve put together our top 8 experiences to help you explore this beautiful destination.

Α trip to the third largest island of Greece offers experiences that one cannot imagine exist on a single island. Lesvos, the homeland of Elytis, Myrivilis, Venezis, Theophilos, and Sappho, reveals so many different faces and carries on its soil a strong heritage that locals are proud of- discover more here.

Insights Greece - Top 8 Experiences in Lesvos

Explore Mytilini, the glorious capital

The history of the capital of Lesvos dates back to the 10th century BC. You will feel the thrill once you start driving along the coastal road, next to a series of old mansions – each with its distinct architectural style, clearly competing in glamor and excellence. Just wait until the sunset. A picture-postcard image waits for you, as the sun spreads its warm light on the neoclassical buildings of the waterfront with the triangular roofs, the bell tower of the Metropolis, and the castle of Mytilini, one of the largest in the Mediterranean. In the narrow back alleys, you will find Ladadika, a historic district of Mytilini that is buzzing with cool bars and taverns serving local recipes. Stop by the Ermis cafe and restaurant with two hundred years of history and decor that prove it. Drink a Greek coffee on the embers and try recipes from Asia Minor. Stop by important Ottoman monuments, such as the Yeni Mosque and the Charsi Hammam, and walk along Ermou Street with its modern and antique shops, while in the Varia area, visit the famous museum of the popular painter Theophilos and the Tériade Museum of Modern Art with works by Matisse, Miró, Picasso, and Tsarouchis.

Relax in thermal waters at Therma Spa

Just outside of Mytilini, indulge in the beneficial properties of Therma Spa Lesvos (tel. 2251041503). The thermal water comes to the surface from a depth of 2,500 meters, penetrating various rocks along the way that enrich it with valuable ingredients for health and wellbeing, as it gushes out like an artesian at a temperature of 39.5 ℃.

Wander in the fossil forest

20 million years ago, volcanic ash covered a large part of the North Aegean and “froze” in time tree trunks, branches, leaves, roots, and even some animals that once lived here. Today the fossilized forest of Lesvos is a valuable natural museum. It is often referred to as the “Pompeii of the plant world” and is a member of the UNESCO global network of geo-parks.

Visit Plomari, the homeland of ouzo

The picturesque cobbled streets of Plomari are eagerly waiting for you to cross them to experience the special atmosphere of a place that knew great development in the 19th century since it had many olive mills, soap factories, a nuclear factory, and ouzo factories (today in the island’s cafes you can try all 20 different ouzo labels from local producers). After the Asia Minor Catastrophe, Plomari lost part of its old glory, as the possibility of trading with the Turkish coast stopped. At the same time, the recent earthquake of 2017 has also left its mark. On the waterfront of the port, you will take a photo of the Athanasiadeion, also known as the “Great Cafe”, one of the most magnificent cafes on the island. A hallmark of the settlement is the century-old plane tree in the central square, which is said to have been planted in 1813.

Discover the joy of bird-watching

The location of Lesvos in the Eastern Mediterranean and its wide variety of wetlands form the ideal passage for the endemic and migratory birds from Asia, Africa, and Europe. At least 134 different species pass by the island (from black storks, white storks, brown geese, avocados, wine birds, sea urchins to pink flamingos). Wooden houses in Agia Paraskevi, Dipio – Larsos, and Kalloni, are observatories for rare and protected birds.

Visit Molyvos, a village with the world’s most beautiful alley

Mithymna, or Molyvos as it was called during the Middle Ages, is situated on a small mountain topped by the dramatic Castle of Mithymna, one of the best preserved in the Eastern Mediterranean. Walk along the main cobbled street of the settlement, and wander around the main market with charming shops and little cafes. During spring, the wisteria creates a purple pergola above the cobblestones that certainly resembles paradise. In the park of Molyvos, the old oil factory has been transformed into one of the most interesting hotels on the island. It is worth seeing the picturesque fishing port of Molyvos, with boats and trawls.

Agiasos, a village “time machine”

Built on the slopes of Mount Olympus, Agiasos will inspire you with its vivid appearance, right from its square with the colourful chairs. It is impossible not to meet Mrs. Efstratia Tourvalis and her corner shop (with the climbing plant intertwined with her creations) standing in the same spot for 64 years. She will welcome you with the local dialect of the inhabitants of Agiasos, blowing a whistle that produces bird sounds. Opposite this shop, you will find the Reading Room of Agiasos (which was founded in 1894 during the Turkish occupation and continues its multifaceted activity to this day without interruption), to meet the teacher of santouri (instrument of the hammered dulcimer) Mr. Zafiriou who plays the unique traditional music of Asia Minor. A few steps further up are enough to see the “coffee houses”. Enjoy a coffee in the embers and “kainari”, a drink with many spices that are made only in Agiasos. Savor the traditional sweet “placeta” that resembles baklava under the shade of the vine, in this picturesque alley next to the impressive church of Panagia of Agiasos.

Visit Agios Taxiarchis Monastery

Taxiarchis is the patron saint of Lesvos. It is said that he wore iron shoes and ran everywhere to protect the Christians. The dark face of the icon is full of power as it projects through the shimmering silver frame. Even today, pilgrims have mixed feelings about this unique image. Sometimes they see the Saint’s face as very wild and sometimes very calm and familiar, believing that in this way the Saint is trying to convey various messages to them. According to tradition, all of the monks at this monastery were massacred during a Saracen raid. The only survivor was a young novice, Gabriel, who was hiding on the roof and saw the roof tiles miraculously turned into a stormy sea and Archangel Michael wielding his sword against the attackers and fighting them off. While the vision was still fresh in his memory, the novice made an icon of the saint using the soil and the blood of the fallen monks.

Greece Greek islands Lesvos Mytilini Greece travel

Kafeneion Ermis, One of the Oldest Cafes in Greece

Kafeneion Ermis in Mytilini is one of the most historic and oldest cafes in Greece- with the antique décor and authentic vibe reflecting the traditional living history of the entire space.

Having first opened its doors in 1922 in Ali Agats (nowadays known as Aliağa) in Asia Minor, by the Spanoudakis family – during the Great Smyrna Catastrophe they took Turkish coffee from the bank as an exchangeable commodity and moved to Mytilini, where they opened Kafeneion Ermis. It quickly became a place that was visited by working-class people as well as great local, political figures of the time and artists including Theofilos and Stratis Myrivilis.

Today, a fourth generation of the Spanoudakis family has taken over the business, with Eirini Laskari (along with her mum Kyveli) returning to the island to continue her grandparent’s legacy.

We had the chance to chat with Eirini about Kafeneion Ermis and her love of keeping her family’s traditions alive.

How do you feel having taken over such a historic café?

I feel particularly lucky that this historic place landed in our hands. It is very moving to think that where I spend most of my day, generations back have, respectively, spent their days too. I can sense their existence in every detail and corner of the Kafeneion. The old floor with tiles that are well over 100 years old, the ceiling with the antique air ducts – everything inside this space reminds us of the past and instantly transfers visitors into another century! However, like any other business on the island, it takes lots of sacrifices and commitment to keep it going.

Insights Greece - Kafeneion Ermis, One of the Oldest Cafes in Greece

Describe a typical workday for you.

I start work at around 9 a.m., which is much better than the 4 a.m. that I was used to a few years back. First on our list is to order all the ingredients we need, and then we start to prepare the appetizers. In the morning we serve freshly baked Greek coffee, teas, homemade lemonade and spoon sweets. During lunchtime, we serve a range of dishes, ouzo and wine. In the afternoon some coffee and then more appetizers and ouzo during the evening.

What are your favourite appetizers on the menu?

All the meze recipes are from old Asia Minor, and they have been handed down to us from our grandmothers. Visitors must try the Smyrna meatballs, wine-braised octopus, cuttlefish with vinegar, giuslemedes (traditional cheese pies), zucchini flowers stuffed with rice or cheese, sougania (local onion dumplings), and last but not least the white beans and fava from peas – which may sound simple, but they are delicately prepared. Another hit is the imam bayildi with eggplants and the wine-braised spleen, which is one of my Grandfather’s recipes.

Do you still have well-known people visiting?

Over the years, we have hosted numerous cooking and travel shows from Greece and abroad. We have visitors from the entertainment world, artists, and political figures, who are either on holiday or on a business trip and come in to see us. It is a very famous café, mentioned throughout itineraries and travel books to Mytilini – not only because of its historic importance but also because our menu is truly unique and delicious.

Tell us about the products and ingredients used in your dishes.

Most of the ingredients we use in our kitchen are locally sourced. Our focus is on products that come from the island of Lesvos and the Aegean Sea, however, if there is a certain ingredient that we cannot find on the island then we source it from other parts of Greece. We strictly follow “seasonality”, and this is what gives variety and freshness to our dishes. “Everything in its time,” as Greeks say! That is why Lesvos must be seen and tasted, throughout all seasons of the year.

What other places would you highly recommend when visiting Lesvos?

It’s a big island and you will most certainly need a car to explore and see it all. The first city a visitor meets upon arriving on the island is Mytilini. Visit the famous 6th-century castle, perched on a steep hill – as it offers the best views of the city and harbour. Spend some time at the aristocratic Kioski neighbourhood located just below the castle, go for a stroll around the new and old port to admire the 40m tall dome of Agios Therapontos church and have a wander around the historic refugee neighbourhood of Epano Skala. Then, there is the Carsi Hamam, the Yeni Djami and Valide Mosque, the Ancient Theatre and the various archaeological sites that are scattered around the city. Other must-see places are the village of Petra- known for the church of Panagia Glikofilousa, the stone-built village of Molyvos with the magnificent castle, the healing springs of Eftalou, Sikaminia, Plomari, the Castle of Agioi Theodoroi (also known as Ovriokastro) on the peninsula of ancient Antissa and Sigri Park where you can see the Petrified Forest of Lesvos.

A: 2 Kornarou Street, Epano Skala, Mytilini

Cafe food guide Greek islands Kafeneio Lesvos Mytilini

All you need to know about Ouzo, Greece’s Most Famous Spirit

Combining Mediterranean herbs with a traditional process- dating back thousands of years- Ouzo is by far Greece’s most famous spirit. Exclusively produced in Greece, once you try it and consume it the right way, you will understand why it’s a major part of the Greek lifestyle!

Colour: Clear spirit, which becomes opaque when water is added.

Region: Ouzo is a PDO product and can only be produced in Greece. Although it is made in many regions, the most popular brands are based on the island of Lesvos. The latest figures show there are over 300 Ouzo producers in Greece and half of those are located in Lesvos.

Made from: Grapes and anise.

How it’s made: The difference between Ouzo and other aniseed-flavoured spirits is the way it is produced. To make Ouzo, the aromas are naturally created by distilling the seeds together with water and alcoholic solution.

ABV (Alcohol by Volume): Minimum 37.5 % ABV and normally at 40% ABV.

Fact: Over 65% of Ouzo production is exported.

Other flavours used: Apart from aniseed, other flavourings include mastic, cinnamon, fennel, star anise, cardamom, coriander, cloves and mint.

Most popular Ouzo brands: Ouzo 12, Metaxa, Plomari, MINI Mytilinis, Pilavas, Barbayannis.

Taste: Ouzo is a particularly strong drink and not for the faint-hearted. It’s also an acquired taste and has a lovely flavour when sipped slowly and accompanied by the right food.

Best pairings: It can be best enjoyed with salty, savoury, and spicy mezze (appetizers). You will find on the islands locals prefer to drink their Ouzo with seafood, such as anchovies, mackerel, sardines, fried calamari and grilled octopus, whereas on the mainland they will enjoy a glass of Ouzo with loukaniko (Greek sausages), homemade pickles and local cheese. The classic way is to serve it with bread, olives, cheese, tomatoes and cucumber.

How to serve Ouzo: It’s best served with water, rather than straight up. The perfect ratio is one part Ouzo and two parts water, which gives it the right texture and enhances its aromas.

Top tip: Don’t put ice cubes in your Ouzo, it alters the taste. The correct way to drink Ouzo is to mix it with very cold water.

Don’t forget: Ouzo is not a drink to be heavily consumed, it is meant to be sipped slowly and in moderation. With the right mezze, Ouzo can be an amazing experience that will help conjure up fond memories of the Aegean sun, sea, and Greek life!

Barbayannis drinking Ouzo Greek spirit Lesvos Metal MINI Ouzo Mytilini Ouzo Ouzo 12 Plomari

For Part Three of How We Spent Our Greek Summer series, IN+SIGHTS GREECE Culture Editor Marina Tsekoura, takes us from the wild landscapes and incredible food of Crete to an unexpected escape to Lesvos, before wrapping up summer in Mykonos.

A stroll through Mytilene is like stepping into an era of aristocratic splendor. Colourful, imposing mansions, some crowned with elegant towers, others nestled within lush gardens, stand as a testament to the city’s once-thriving industrial revolution.

Lesvos is a captivating Greek island known for its rich history, stunning mansions, and warm hospitality. And we’ve put together our top 8 experiences to help you explore this beautiful destination.

Kafeneion Ermis in Mytilini is one of the most historic and oldest cafes in Greece- with the antique décor and authentic vibe reflecting the traditional living history of the entire space.

Combining Mediterranean herbs with a traditional process- dating back thousands of years- Ouzo is by far Greece’s most famous spirit. Exclusively produced in Greece, once you try it and consume it the right way, you will understand why it’s a major part of the Greek lifestyle!

The Athens Guide