There are some Greek islands that demand a plan, but Hydra is not one of them.

You arrive here by ferry and step straight onto the harbour, where stone houses climb the hillside above the water and donkeys move steadily along the quay. There are no cars, no traffic, and very little to interrupt the view of fishing boats rocking beside elegant old mansions. Life on Hydra happens on foot and this is what makes it so special.

Over the last month Hydra has returned to the international spotlight, with thanks to Brad Pitt shooting scenes along the harbour for his upcoming film The Riders. It feels fitting rather than surprising, as Hydra has long attracted artists who come here in search of privacy and inspiration.

Some visitors stay for a few days, weeks, months (even years), but if you only have a day in Hydra, the best place to start is at the harbour itself.

Morning begins along the waterfront of Hydra Town, with fishermen preparing their boats while café tables begin to fill with locals greeting one another. One of the best places to sit is Isalos Café, easily one of the most well-known spots on the island. Take a table facing the harbour and order the Caffè del Doge, a Venetian coffee that regulars speak highly of. This is where you’ll spot ferries arriving from Athens, yachts drifting in and out, and the town gradually coming to life around you.

A few steps away is one of Hydra’s most unique landmarks, Rafalia’s Pharmacy, which is often described as one of the most beautiful pharmacies in the world. Founded in 1890 by Evangelos Rafalias, it is one of the oldest pharmacies in Greece and has remained in the same family ever since. The shop sits inside a handsome mansion, and its shelves display soaps, lotions and colognes based on traditional Greek pharmacopeia recipes. The glass bottles and classic packaging make it feel as much like a small museum as a pharmacy.

Hydra’s reputation as a haven for creative minds dates back many decades, and during the 1960s the island became a gathering place for writers, poets and painters. The most famous resident was Leonard Cohen, who bought a house here in 1960 and spent many years on the island. Hydra inspired his song “Bird on the Wire,” and visitors still make their way up to the simple house with the grey door on what is now Leonard Cohen Street, just above the harbour near the Four Corners grocery shop. Along the coastal path towards the quaint fishing village of Kamini, there is also a small bench dedicated to him, placed there by locals and admirers.

Make sure you spend a bit of time in Kamini, where you will spot fishermen repairing their nets along the waterfront and small wooden boats sitting tied beside the stone quay. As you make your way back to Hydra Town, follow the shoreline for sweeping views of the island, then browse the small boutiques filled with local jewellery, handmade sandals and ceramics. 

Near the harbour, the island’s history is easy to trace. The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin sits beneath the harbour clocktower- it was originally built as a monastery in the seventeenth century and later served as Hydra’s prison before becoming an ecclesiastical museum displaying Orthodox icons, manuscripts and ceremonial vestments. Just above the harbour stands the striking yellow Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion, which was built in the eighteenth century and once belonged to a powerful shipping family whose fortune played an important role in the Greek War of Independence. Inside, period furnishings and artwork offer a glimpse of Hydra during its prosperous maritime years.

During warmer months, by midday the sea becomes impossible to ignore. A short walk from the harbour leads to Spilia, a rocky swimming spot where ladders drop straight into clear blue water. There is no sand here, only smooth rock platforms and deep water that makes it a favourite place for diving.

Now when it comes time to eat, Hydra offers several good restaurants and Techne Restaurant & Social is one of our favourites. Set inside a restored nineteenth-century boat factory, it combines an elegant dining room with a terrace overlooking the sea. The kitchen focuses on seasonal Greek and Mediterranean cooking, with seafood pasta, lamb, and thoughtfully prepared vegetarian dishes appearing on the menu. The wine list highlights local drops, and the signature cocktails are crafted with Greek botanicals and Mediterranean flair. 

For a setting closely tied to the island’s maritime history, Omilos Restaurant is another memorable choice. Positioned right beside the water, it remains one of the most breathtaking places to dine on the island.

When the afternoon comes around, people often head back towards the water and take a seat at Hydronetta, which sits dramatically on the rocks and is by far one of Hydra’s favourite café-bars. Tables overlook the sea, making it an ideal place for a glass of wine, or something stronger as the day moves on. Those who enjoy cocktails often head to Amalour, known for its inventive drinks and relaxed setting.

Before evening arrives, there is one local specialty worth seeking out, and that is Hydra’s famous almond biscuits called amygdalota. Tsagkaris prepares some of the best on the island- they are traditionally enjoyed with coffee or you can take a box home to try. 

As the sun begins to drop, the harbour softens into warm evening light and many people head to the Windmill Bar to watch the sunset, while others stop at The Pirate Bar for an aperitivo.  

For dinner, Kamini offers one of Hydra’s most authentic options. Ostria Taverna’s menu focuses on seafood brought in by local fishermen, with the calamari being a stand-out- it’s grilled perfectly and is served with a squeeze of lemon. 

Later in the evening the harbour fills once again with conversation and clinking of glasses at L’Americano, one of the newest additions to the island’s bar scene. You see, Hydra has a way of holding on to its visitors more than anticipated. And even those who arrive here for only a day often find themselves thinking about when they might return.

How to Get to Hydra from Athens

Hydra is one of the easiest Greek islands to reach from Athens. Ferries depart regularly from Piraeus port, and the journey takes around 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the service. High speed ferries run several times a day, particularly during the warmer months, making Hydra an ideal day trip or short escape from the city. 

Book your ferry tickets to Hydra here. 

 

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