A Day in Athens’ Cool Neighbourhood of Neos Kosmos

Literally translating to “New World”, the neighbourhood of Neos Kosmos was historically known to be a symbol of new beginnings and a new home for refugees from Asia Minor who fled Turkish expulsion.

Still a haven for the modern-day refugee crises (the public housing estate off Syngrou Avenue now inhabits tenants from the Balkans, Asia and the Middle East), in recent years, the area has seen some changes, namely the addition of a cultural centre, theatre, major hotels and a string of celebrated eateries that now make Neos Kosmos an inner-city suburb of intriguing contradictions.

Whether staying at one of the nearby hotels on Syngrou Avenue or in the centre of Athens, a walk through the neighbourhood of Neos Kosmos wouldn’t be complete without these stops.  

Stop 1: Coffee and brunch at Naif

Perched on the busy corner of Leontiou and Evridamantos, Naif is one of those great neighbourhood cafes that is loved by locals (and not only). It has a compact interior with minimal, danish-inspired design, yet its real charm is in the sunny table-lined sidewalk that seems to be filled with patrons day and night. There is a varied menu that includes brunch options like baked eggs, tsoureki French toast and yogurt bowls. The food menu is rounded out with sandwiches, salads, burgers and pizza. The coffee is strong and good, and keeps company with a selection of wines, classic cocktails and local beers. 

Stop 2: Onassis Stegi Cultural Centre

Even if you’re not looking for the Onassis Cultural Centre, it’s hard to miss. Tim Etchall’s immense neon light installation  “All we have” mounted on the outside of the OSCC has become synonymous with the multidisciplinary art space. The Onassis Cultural Centre has a rotating seasonal program of performances, installations and exhibitions that recognise local and international talent. A 10-minute drive from the historic centre of Athens, the OSCC offers a contemporary take on Greek art and culture that rounds out Athens’ cultural offering.

Stop 3: Aperitivo hour at Teras 

After dinner, stop by hip hangout spot Teras for an early evening cocktail in the quaint 1930s building or under the impressive fig tree that fills the courtyard. Teras is a multidisciplinary space, with a rotating schedule of events like yoga lessons and pop-up bazaars. The one constant at Teras is the ability to enjoy the musical offerings of local Athenian DJs as you sip on your evening spritz. 

Stop 3: Take your pick from these noteworthy dinner options

The dining options in Neos Kosmos are not to be overlooked. In fact, you’d be well-advised to book a table in advance of your planned visit.

Since opening in 2019, Fita restaurant has cemented its place in the Athens dining scene as the go-to for fish and seafood close to the city centre. Featuring locally caught fish and seafood, the menu rotates based on the fisherman’s catch and usually includes Fita’s velvet-like taramosalata and a version of their famed spaghetti with bottarga or clams. The thoughtfully created menu, selection of Greek wines and casual neighbourhood sidewalk-dining make Fita a perfect place to dine on a balmy summer’s evening (or any time of the year, for that matter). 

Annie Fine Cooking is a relatively new (and exciting) entry to the Neos Kosmos dining scene. Originally from Mani, chef Stavriani Zervakakou designs a seasonal menu based on her market haul that morning. Here, you can relax at the tables and cushioned armchairs laying on the sidewalk of Menaichmos while you watch the open kitchen in full swing. 

Hytra Restaurant sits on the top floor of the Onassis Cultural Centre and has developed a culinary identity based on its fusion of traditional Greek gastronomy expressed in a contemporary manner. With a Michelin star under its belt, Hytra offers two separate menus that co-exist within the same space. Hytra and Hytra Apla share a common theme of local ingredients, presented in both a modern (see: Hytra) and traditional (see: Hytra Apla) way. 

Stop 4: Drinks at Grasshoppers

Grasshoppers is the new kid on the block in Neos Kosmos, having just opened in May 2022. Located opposite Naif and around the corner from the Onassis Stegi Cultural Centre, Grasshoppers is a bar where all the details have been seen to and the cocktails are no exception. With friendly bar staff, an excellent offering of bar food built for sharing (try the Vitello Tonnato) and a drinks list that will spark exciting discussion, Grasshoppers is the perfect spot to end (or start) your night in Neos Kosmos. 

Main Image Courtesy of One Man 

The Other Side of Kolonaki

Discovering Daily Feel-Good and Wonderful Places in a Neighbourhood I Once Disliked with a Passion

I was never a big fan of the Kolonaki that’s usually written about and seen. The busier part, where the main square and all its surrounding streets thrive with costly liveliness. Essentially, I have always somewhat avoided the super-trendy areas with their hyper-expensive boutiques, glossy cafes and wine bars, delis and galleries.

Insights Greece - The Other Side of Kolonaki
Views over the neighbourhood

For just over a year, I’ve been fortunate enough to have made my nest in the neighbourhood that overlooks the heart-opening, lush greenery of Lycabettus. The forested hill across my home resounds daily with the sound of birds, church bells and mainly spirited chit-chatter in all languages. On windy days, I listen out for the rustling leaves and the flag from the church of St George, which I feel privileged to watch flapping at the top of the hill through a tiny gap in the trees.

On cold winter mornings, I relish opening my balcony window to inhale the mulchy, crisp forest air, feeling like I’m living in the countryside; on summer nights I say “mmm” from the intoxicating wafts of jasmine, orange blossoms and night flowers. My part of Kolonaki was unbeknownst to me before I moved. It is quiet, quaint, and green, with joggers, tourists, families and dog walkers as its protagonists. Here I will share with you the favourite places I enjoy on an average day, places I reach around the area without ever entering the central part.

Morning to Midday

Insights Greece - The Other Side of Kolonaki
Kora Bakery

One of my favourite ways to indulge myself in the morning is to buy a Pain au Chocolat with Gianduja chocolate, or a perfectly flaky and buttery croissant with Cretan apaki ham, Greek graviera and a mustard bechamel from Kora Bakery on Anagnostopoulou St. What an Italian neighbour/friend of mine aptly described as a place that looks more like a hairdresser’s or bathroom – because of its yellow tiles on a stark white wall – rather than a bakery, Kora also sells artfully stacked loaves of freshly baked bread, including a very special one with hints of dark chocolate. The quality is high, the service is professional and there’s no hanging around.

For food shopping, I love visiting Kostarelos on Patriarchou Ioakeim St, originally a cheese manufacturer (since 1937) and now also a deli with top-quality products sold at very reasonable prices. One can get a takeout coffee and savoury or sweet pie or sit here and eat a yummy cheese (or chocolate!) fondue as well as other easy meals. Or, like me, just head straight for the counters deeper into the store, where I buy chocolate or vanilla cream (kremoula) puddings for my son, great ice cream (the pistachio flavour is made with Aegina pistachios) as well as wonderful fresh cuts of hams and cheeses, organic sliced bread with olive oil and even homemade style jams from small producers around the country.

Afternoon to Evening

Insights Greece - The Other Side of Kolonaki
Kostarelos cheese

Xenokratous Street is my go-to shopping zone. During lockdown, it was, happily, the only place I circulated in. I say happily because it’s one of those streets that has everything you may ordinarily need: two butcher shops, two kiosks of the type that sell ‘everything’, a neighbourhood café (The Daily, where mainly locals hang out) two small supermarkets, a florist, a cava, two pharmacies, a key shop and two jewellery shops, my favourite of which is Amaya, where I spend a good while gazing through the window to admire the beautifully handmade earrings, pendants and rings. It’s also the street where the ‘laiki’ open-air market takes place every Friday from 8 am-4 pm. The vendors definitely pinch up their prices for what they presume are richer locals, but the variety and product quality is good.

It’s also pleasing, especially during summer and springtime but also in cooler months, to spend afternoons and evenings at Dexameni, where you’ll find an ancient Roman aqueduct, an open-air (summer only) cinema, a playground and a café-restaurant with tiny tables lining the steep hill that leads down to it. This is where I often meet friends either for playdates with our kids or for drinks or a combination of both, a few meze dishes or a movie. On summer nights Dexameni Café gets very crowded with everyone from millennials from around the city to elderly regulars who queue to sit at the tables.

Night

Insights Greece - The Other Side of Kolonaki
Bar 56, a hidden spot in Kolonaki

Since I moved to Kolonaki I must have walked by Bar 56 a gazillion times without even noticing it. Shrouded by a giant black umbrella and hidden in an enclosed, leafy corner along the Ploutarchou Street stairway, once I did notice the warm, reddish light coming from inside it I thought it may be an underground haunt frequented by mafia, and/or ladies of the night. Much to my surprise, when I finally plucked up the courage to pop my head inside upon returning from the St George’s Kick Boxing Club just two minutes down the stairs, I was somewhat awestruck in discovering a vintage-style bar with a jazzy soundtrack that was dreamily lit by fairy lights, with old photos covering the walls, a layout designed for lovers of clandestine corners and a piano. It turns out it has been around for some 30 years and is a “known secret” among serious whiskey and rum connoisseurs. It’s now what I call “my new neighbourhood steki” or hangout, although with Covid madness I’ve only made it there twice thus far.

Nice N Easy

Insights Greece - The Other Side of Kolonaki
Prasini Tenta

This place, where Skoufa Street meets Omirou Street, reminds me of the TV show ‘Taxi’, “where everybody knows your name” as the theme song goes, and I’ve had some of the best nights of my life there. Why? Chiefly, the owners, Eirini Andersen, Dimitris Christoforidis and Executive Chef Chris Athanasiadis, individuals who know everything right about running a successful, ‘I’ll-Be-Back’ vibe restaurant that offers an idyllic combination of warm hospitality, delicious farm-to-table healthy food, feel-good décor and a happily buzzy ambience. Located near the beautiful Agios Dionyssios church and classically intellectual-friendly Filion Café, this place has always felt like a perfect place to get away while also feeling like home.

Prasini Tenda
Oh…Those Summer Nights! When, after a short (but sharp, let’s face it!) walk up the steps towards St George church on Lycabettus you arrive at a stunning, and at night, sparkly, panoramic view of Athens, the Parthenon, the sea…Enough said. From morning to night, but especially seductive at night, this café-restaurant is the perfect place to fall in love with the city you’re in, and if you’re with the right company, perhaps with whoever happens to be sitting across you. The main dish is the view, but the service and menu are appealing as well.

Main image by harrypapaioannou

7 Best Places for Dessert in Psirri

The culturally rich, historic, vibrant and cool Athenian neighbourhood of Psyrri is packed with precious antiques, talented local artisans, authentic Greek tavernas, boho bars, charming cafes and loads of visitors who come here time and time again to enjoy a spot where the modern world blends in beautifully with old-time charm. 

With so many amazing dessert places to choose from, we’ve rounded up our favourite spots to enjoy some delicious sweets in Psirri, for your next visit to the Greek capital! 

Ta Serbetia Stou Psirri  

One of Athens’ most loved patisseries, Ta Serbetia Stou Psirri is a family-run shop that first opened its doors in 1997. Since then, they have been serving mouthwatering homemade sweets created using family recipes that have been passed down through generations. From traditional Greek classics to cheesecakes, there is something here to satisfy all tastes.  

A: Eschilou 3, Psirri

Marika Tarts

For some of the most delicious handmade tarts in Athens, head to Marika’s, who bakes sweet and savoury tarts each day, using seasonal and fresh products. Here you’ll taste traditional Greek flavours through to more modern variations- including pumpkin, lemon meringue and banoffee tarts. 

A: Pallados 4, Psirri  

To Serbetospito Tis Nancys

Otherwise known as Nancy’s Sweet Home, here you will find big servings of desserts that are mouthwatering. From rich chocolate cake to traditional Galaktoboureko (custard pie), it’s a local favourite that’s always packed, so make sure you go early. 

A: Iroon 1 Square, Athens

Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki

For traditional Bougatsa, like you would find in Thessaloniki (where this famous dessert originated) head to Bougatsidiko, where you can also watch the masters open their filo by hand! 

A: Iroon 1 Square, Athens

Zoubourlou

Serving some of the most authentic Greek desserts in Psirri, including Baklava, Kataifi and Ekmek, (drenched in their secret syrup), this stylish patisserie is the perfect spot to catch up with friends. 

A: Eschilou 4, Athens 

Crepa Holic 

Who doesn’t love a good crepe? Specialising in crepes and waffles, Crepa Holic is open seven days a week, until 3 am in the morning- so if you are searching for something sweet after midnight, this one is for you! 

A: Pallados 17, Psirri 

To Koulouri Tou Psyrri

Most famous for its Koulouri (a round bread sprinkled with sesame seeds) this hole in the wall bakery also serves a sweet version, which is fried dough dusted with sugar, as well as homemade muffins and cakes. 

A: 23 Georgiou Karaiskaki, Psirri

 

Cover image Zoubourlou 

Cozy Cafe in Athens’ Upper Petralona Neighbourhood

Located in the bohemian neighbourhood of Upper Petralona (under the Filopappos Hill) Kyrios Xou (Mr Who) is a cozy place where you can take a break from Athens’ bustle.

Boasting an abundance of character, this all-day cafe/bar is set in a striking 1930’s neoclassical building and features a soft green shopfront- making for an iconic facade.

Kyrios Xou is always busy, and with good reason: their great coffee and delicious dishes made from fresh Greek ingredients (that are sourced from a variety of producers all over the country) has created a loyal following of Athenians and ex-pats alike.

The cafe’s interior has become an adored space in the city for the quirky collection of posters, artwork, mementos and decor; as well as the original architecture and old fashion feel of the space. 

Kyrios’ many happy customers spill onto the footpath, as there are a few tables out the front where customers can sit and enjoy a coffee; and the cool courtyard in the back creates a lively scene. Here you will hear plenty of conversations in Greek and English that intertwine with the laid-back music. 

But it’s not only the ambiance that keeps regulars coming back- it’s also the quality range of coffee (here you can grab a good latte, espresso, a Freddo, or a traditional Greek coffee), as well as great options for teas, fresh and colourful juices; and an amazing brunch menu that includes French Toast, Poached Eggs, Pancakes, Homemade Pies (cheese and spinach pies), and a variety of sweets. 

In the afternoons and on weekends, locals also come here for a leisurely drink as Kyrios Xou doubles as a casual bar- and don’t worry about dressing up, this is the kind of place where people are laid-back and effortlessly stylish— making it the perfect spot to hang out with friends.

A: Iperionos 1, Athina