Food lovers heading to Thessaloniki have something new to look forward to, as the city’s historic Agora Modiano has just reopened its doors with a fresh line-up of places to shop, eat and drink, giving you one more reason to add this century-old market to your list on your next visit.

Following a brief pause and a major refresh by ERGON Foods, the market reopened this month with 32 shops under its historic roof. Part produce market, part all-day eating spot, it’s the kind of place where you can pick up local cheese and freshly baked bread, sit down to fish cooked straight from the counter, grab a warm bougatsa, stop for a glass of wine or tsipouro, and leave with a bag full of local pantry staples.

The story of Modiano goes back more than a century, as its doors first opened onto Ermou and Vasileos Irakleiou streets in March 1925, and within a few years it had established itself at the centre of Thessaloniki’s daily food culture. This was where locals came for meat, fish, fruit and vegetables, but also where people met over food and drinks, with celebrations often beginning around midday and continuing into the evening.

A century on, the newly reopened Modiano has returned to its original purpose as a proper food market, while giving visitors plenty of opportunities to eat and drink along the way.

Fresh produce still plays a starring role- the Greengrocer is stocked with seasonal fruit and vegetables, nuts and dried fruit, while the Butcher sits on the site of the market’s historic meat section. At the Fishmonger, fresh fish and seafood can be bought to take home or selected from the counter, cooked and eaten right there on a stool.

There’s plenty to take away, as The Grocer brings together Greek pantry essentials including olive oil, olives, spices, pulses, spreads and halva, while the market has its own micro-dairy, Kozanis Farm, producing strained yoghurt and cheese on site. At the Artisanal, you’ll find fine cheeses and cured meats served on greaseproof paper or packed into sandwiches, ideally with a glass of wine at the counter.

The bakery works with a 72-hour slow-fermented sourdough starter, while another stand is devoted entirely to koulouri, Thessaloniki’s sesame-covered bread rings. And it would hardly be a Thessaloniki food market without bougatsa. Here, the phyllo is rolled by hand and filled with sweet or savoury fillings, making it a great place to start if you visit in the morning.

By lunchtime, the options become more substantial.

Hasapotaverna draws on the old butcher-tavern tradition, grilling meat to order in front of you, while Soutzoukakia does exactly what its name promises, serving handmade Thessaloniki-style soutzoukakia alongside pork belly and spreads. At Bakaliarakia, crisp cod and baby squid come hot from the pan with skordalia, double-fried potatoes and cold beer.

Then there’s Megas Anatolikos, where the fish and seafood come directly from the fishmonger next door. Add ouzo, tsipouro, mezedes and live music, and it’s easy to see why this is the sort of place you could spend all day at. 

One of the most interesting elements of the new Modiano is how much is produced within the market itself. Magia brews its beer on site and serves it throughout the market, Central roasts the coffee poured across its various venues, and Kozanis Farm supplies its freshly made dairy products to several shops.

Drink spots include Herbarium, which takes its inspiration from an old-fashioned pharmacy, mixing cocktails with ingredients sourced from within the market, while Reservé takes a more classic approach, with quality spirits and a cocktail list inspired by forgotten favourites.

And leave some room for something sweet. Astikon has the nostalgic feel of a traditional patisserie, with loukoumades, fresh pastries, custards, handmade ice cream and tray-baked sweets. Or pull up a chair at Bel Ami, a classic-style kafeneio serving coffee, mezedes, spirits, toasted sandwiches and sweets from morning until late.

The beauty of Modiano is that there’s no one way to experience it. Drop by in the morning for bougatsa and coffee, shop for local produce, stop for lunch, or spend an evening over ouzo and mezedes. And before you leave, pick up a few things to take with you.

For foodies visiting Thessaloniki, Agora Modiano is once again one of the city’s essential food stops.

All images by Agora Modiano ©